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Deadeye to Deadeye


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My newest brain rattler is the amount of space between deadeyes.  Do the newer blueprints state this exactly and I am overlooking it?  When working on small, very old and simple models (I give them to grandkids and neighborhood kids so the turn-around has to be fast) there will be an illustration and sometimes a drawing of knots but no specific length of rope between the two.  Is there some "code" based on the scale of the model that would help me be a little bit more accurate?  If it is based on appearance alone, that is just fine too. 


The same question applies to the amount of rope that should extend past the individual deadeye when attaching it to nearly anything.  Again, the illustration shows the rope encircling the deadeye, this rope and tied with various knots but no specific lengths.





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I can't find the reference at present, but recall that in general, subject to era and individual (rigger/captain's) preference, it was between 2.5 and 3.5 deadeye diameters between the deadeyes.  Here are 2 diagrams - one from Steel (1796) and one from Biddlecombe (1848) that show part of the process and how the shroud and lanyard are reeved together.  I'll see if I can find a better one with detail on reeving the deadeye.


Hope these help!





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And I just KNEW that after hitting post I would find the reference!


Here is some information from The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay by George Campbell (available from Model Expo and other sources).  This is a great resource to have on your shelf!


The shrouds are set up and adjusted by means of DEADEYES and LANYARDS. Start rigging them with the foremast on the starboard side. Seize (or bind) the first deadeye into a loop formed in the shroud. Fig. 67. Reeve (or thread) the lanyard through the deadeyes (you have already mounted the lower ones along the channel, Fig. 18.) according to the sketch in each case drawing the deadeyes together the distance given on your plan which may be anything from 3 to 5 deadeye diameters. Temporarily secure the lanyard in a hitch around the shroud end. It is finally secured by a hitch and a few round turns (you could glue this in place).


Now run the free end of the shroud up through the lubbers hole, over the bolster, around the mast and down again to form the second starboard foremast shroud. Seiz;e a second deadeye into this end at the same height as the first one and all subsequent deadeyes similarly. When there is an odd number of shrouds on one side, the odd shroud is rigged on starboard, goes up and makes a full loop around the masthead and down the port side to form the odd shroud on the port side.



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