HMS Victory by robipod - Caldercraft - 1805 version - first build

[robipod]

Second coats of Admiralty Yellow Ochre done. On both sides I might add.   Did the final filler. Did not mention that I've been using LePage Wood Filler (interior) 90 ml tubes. They come in different colours. I have been using walnut. I like the wood filler as opposed to the plastic wood by the same company. This filler dries fast and is easy to manipulate with the fingers. Yep, I get the fingers dirty. I use my finger to spread the filler on the smaller seams. The plastic wood is just too hard when it dries. This wood filler is relatively soft when it dries. Much easier to work with.

Here are two images. The touch-ups along some of the planking seams and then the result. I am very pleased with the result. I wanted to keep the seams appearing to a very minimum. I know long term drying will wreak havoc on it. Oh well, looks good now.

Here is the side with some filler and a bit of sanding. Oh, I did the filling, sanding, and painting all this evening. That's what I mean by fast drying filler. Figure the sides will look great when I put the gun port linings back in.

Here is the result tonight.

Decided to throw in a picture of the filler. It is upside down so you can read the packaging.. LOL...

Edited March 20, 2013 by robipod

[robipod]

Tried my first horizontal black line. Came up with the "brilliant idea" of using electrical tape to define the line. It seems to fit perfectly. It even stretches to match the curve of the hull but It doesn't work. Thought you should know. Have some fix-up to do. LOL... oh well... the yellow ochre works really well....

needed some fun so made this up

Edited March 26, 2013 by robipod

[mort stoll]

Hi Rob,

 

Next time try the blue painer tape. It works very well and is at any Lowes or Home Depot. 

 

Mort

[robipod]

Here are some more images from my visit to Victory back in the 80's. That's a long time ago now...

 

Edited March 26, 2013 by robipod

[robipod]

Mort... thanks for the idea... I tried the green painter tape from Home Depot too. Didn't seem to work all that well in my testing stage, but I am using it to fix up the electrical tape effort. Is there a difference between the blue and green?  I read somewhere, am thinking Gii's post, that he used a 'plastic-type' tape. Will take a look at it too.

[gil middleton]

Hi Rob, In my opinion, green or blue masking tape is too thick and course. It works on a real boat, but isn't delicate enough for a model. The tape I use is 3M Fine line tape #218  1/4" wide.  Both sides need to be painted or primed or you may get bleeding in the wood under the tape.  I lay the tape on and then firmly work my finger along the tape to get a good seal. The tape is thin and narrow and will follow a curve. You can also get it in  1/8" width.

You're making great progress.  Cheers, Gil

[Kevin]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXDYE9&P=8

 

 

This works very well and comes in different sizes - i used 6mm

 

Disclaimer

lol - its the tape i am showing - not where to buy it from, or price to pay

Edited March 26, 2013 by Kevin

[ocean clipper]

Hi Rob i use Tamiya tape it is made for modelling the adhesion causes no damage when took of ,it does not bleed you get a nice perfect line,ok its not the cheapest tape around but. DEREK

[robipod]

thank you everyone.. have found a source for tamiya Masking Tape 40mm as suggested by Kevin and Derek and found a source for the 3m tape as suggested by Gil. I tried the green tape again this evening just fixing and it doesn't 'flow' to the same degree or stretch as a a 'plastic based' tape. Will try both of the new tapes. Am sure they will work just fine. Funny part of this locating of the tapes -- at two different locations about 5 blocks apart and not that far away from me here in the city.- who would have thought! Thanks again everyone. Appreciate the suggestions. One small precaution I did take is that I made this first attempt about 2mm too narrow. Figured I might have to fix it up. 

Must also admit that I hummed and hawed about the black Admiralty paint as well. I have a matt black paint that I used on the interior and almost used it instead of the Admiralty. I went to the photos of the actual Victory and from what I can figure out, the current painting certainly seems to be a semi-gloss black paint. Well, even the yellow ochre has a slight 'shine' to it. The admiralty paint seemed to have a better black 'pop' to it. someone was suggesting to me that they were not that satisfied with the matt black Admiralty paint as well. They thought it a bit too glossy. Am still struggling though. I can paint over the glossy paint but must make my decision now as the rest of the ship will have to be done the same way. decisions decisions... this is harder than riding down a mountain!

[Kevin]

Keith Jullier used enamels through out his build

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Period-Ship-Handbook/dp/1854862332/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1364287458&sr=1-3

[robipod]

Thanks everyone. Ended up with Tamiya tape. The 3m tape supplier ended up being a wholesaler. My personal ratings on this side of the hull are 6 out of 10 for the horizontals. Am pleased that one will not be able to see both sides at the same time. Still lots of fiddling with the gun ports. On to the port side later this week or next. Discovered that the horizontals will not show up in a dark room.

 

[robipod]

Here is a close-up of the gun ports with the 'black horizontals'. Sorry about the flash bounce. FYI - depending on the angle of view the interior changes as the background is wrapped around the interior of the gun port.

 

 

[ocean clipper]

We all get flash bounce dont worry about it some of my photos are   awefull,those lights inside look effective not sure i could do that,wiring a plug is about my limit,bet your pleased you bought that Tamiya tape you do get a nice line with it  DEREK

[robipod]

It's Monday. Time for more Victory images? Does anyone care to speculate on the deck/location that I took these ones?

Could this (3C) be inside the hold at the bow? Or the orlop deck at the bow? any speculation? Is this lower view (3C) under the deck of image (3B)? Any speculation? I've never been able to remember

Image3C

Image3B

[Fortres]

I think that on Image3C shown here this part of
 prowhttp://modelshipworld.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=20150

Edited April 2, 2013 by Fortres

[robipod]

Konstantin: That makes sense. From the link you supplied it sure looks like it would be a shot taken from the hold looking up. That must be the orlop deck that is at the top of the photo (3C). I just zoomed into the picture that I took of the foremast. You are right on! I didn't think it was the same but once I really zoomed in yes, it is. Thank you!... solved....

[robipod]

Derek: this is a bit out of order but yes, the tape works so much better. Thanks for the tip. haven't done much since the weekend. Looks like the mountains are getting a huge dump of the white stuff the next couple days... not much going to be done on victory these week... the mountains and fresh powder are calling...

[robipod]

Other than doing this with images of the real Victory, how have you determined where the horizontal lines should be on the hull? I did some tweeking to the lines last night.

[John Maguire]

Hi Rob,

I am just beginning. My hull frames are faired and in place. I want to illuminate and like your implementation of putting background in the lower decks. I never thought of that! Would you be willing to please elaborate on what you might do if you were doing a version 2.0, that I might benefit from your experience? What is the optimal location within each cannon port to place the LED? Are you satisfied with your placement? When I was at Gil's house yesterday, he was wondering if additional LED's in the lower decks that would produce illumination visible when looking through from the top would work? I know how to handle the electronic aspect. At this point in my speculative imaginering I contemplate one level of brilliancy for the aft officers quarters and a lower level for the gun ports, etc. I know how to deal with the electronic aspect and since it is impossible to get back inside the ship to modify components I'd adjust the dim/brightness external to the ship. 

 

So, the bottom line is, I like what you have done. Should I replicate it as is or what modifications might you wish based on your present state of the art?

 

Thanks,

John Maguire

Seattle

[robipod]

Missed Monday post of Victory re-build. (the real one)

[Fortres]

Hello, Rob!
I studied those photos that I have and came to the conclusion attentively, that On your photo shown here this gun port.
 

[Fortres]

In support - pay attention to here this structure.

[Fortres]

You see the fragment of this building with an entrance door in opening of gun port on the photo.
A grate on port is a certificate that before a reconstruction during that your photo is done, a ship was used as floating prison and storage.

[robipod]

That could be it or maybe the one to the right? The grate is actually scaffolding on the exterior of the hull during the re-construction.

Take a look at this. I zoomed into the gun port. I can see the doorway and window.   You are quite the detective!

[robipod]

That's the real one.. now back to my build. Have done the horizontals on both sides now. Hmmm... am thinking they are not correct. The camera does not give a true image and there seems to be optical illusions with them .  They just don't seem right! Am thinking that you folks, google, and others in the world will know but my friends come over and ask if the model is "the ship in Pirates of the Caribbean". Guess they will never know unless they read this. Will stew about this for bit. Will put the gun ports in now and 'see how she looks'. It might require a paint scraping session.

Edited April 14, 2013 by robipod

[Fortres]

I am a pensioner from a police.
14 worked in the prison system.

 

If you attentively will look at your photo, then will notice that the right(on a photo) side of port(that nearer to the nose) is located almost apeak, and left of port has some inclination into a corps.
Such form one port has in this part of corps only.

 

 

Only observation...

Edited April 14, 2013 by Fortres

[Fortres]

You, Rob, experience what I.
To see majority in our works not certain ship and construction executed for certain, and "simply sailing-vessel".
I am often asked only about one: when I to allow the models a figure on water and where I will do it - on the river or in a bathroom...
Sadly...

[robipod]

Looking at the photo I posted from the outside, can you see the plastic covering is to the left side of the lower walkway Konstantin. I don't think it can be the one you have circled now that I look at it a bit closer. It has to be further to the right. At least one or two over. Unless it is the gun port on the upper gun deck above the walkway. What do you think?

Edited April 14, 2013 by robipod

[Fortres]

Rob, do not I know - were there you in Portsmouth ?
I use the program Google Earth, that shows an earth surface on a photo from a space companion.
She allows in detail to consider the stand of Victory...even in 3D...
House that is visible in gun port, forms the facade with a ship a corner approximately in 25 degrees with a top at the stern of ship.On this basis type of facade I and I try to define gun port.
Maybe, you are right and port is located nearer to the stern.But me it seems to that the turn of edging is visible in right part of photo - it means nasal part.
The coloured photo that you showed behaves to the later reconstruction.
That photo that we discuss it is done(probably) in 1922-1925.These photos are done at this time.

 

 

 

[robipod]

I took all the pictures I've been posting of Victory. Ran out of colour film when I was down in the hold and had a roll of black and white film that i put in the camera Konstantin.  Don't be confused by black and white photos versus colour. All were taken on the same day when I went to see Victory in Portsmouth. The black and white and colour photos that I took have the 'do not copy etc' on them.  

Edited April 16, 2013 by robipod