Rattlesnake by sport29652 - Model Shipways - 1:64

[sport29652]

It's that not knowing how the curve will affect the planking that's getting me. I feel good about the lines everywhere except for the stern. This is my first shot at a stern like this so "hold fast" and see how's she goes

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I would go with Martin's suggestion and soak a plank or two and form them to the hull.. As long as you don't glue them it is easy to make corrections. After you glue them on it becomes much harder to make changes. Much. I will be shortly ripping off three strakes to fix something that would have taken five minutes had I caught it. Live and learn from others, it's easier.  

[sport29652]

So the past week or so has been spent shimming, sanding, shimming some more and then sanding. I have also installed the waterways to stiffen the hull some more. I would not advise pre fairing the hull as the instructions states. The basswood is easily sanded once on the hull and you can get good lines. I took the hard road (as any good marine would do) and followed the instructions. So doesn't look like much but their is at least 10 hours into fairing and shimming there. Toying with the knight heads and the transom.

Edited April 8, 2013 by sport29652

[russ]

You are doing good. so far. Fairing is a time consuming process, but it will yield great dividends when you plank.

 

I think that it is possible to do a bit of prebeveling on the bulkheads prior to installation, but I agree that the bulk of the work needs to be done after the hull framing is glued up. You always want to take off less than you think you should. It is easier to take more off later than to try and add it back on afterwards.

 

Russ

[Martin W]

Hi Eric -- Fairing really is tedious work, and especially because you really want to get to the stage where it looks like you're working on a ship.  But as Russ says, it will pay off -- the worst thing that can happen is to find out you've got a bulge or dip in your hull when it's too late to go back and redo it. 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

She is “looking good”

 

I am with Russ and Martin.

 

This is an investment in your build.

 

For me; This was not the most memorable part of my build. Hours and hours of work that show little progress. I had to walk away a few times while doing this phase. An eagerness to start the planking phase and uncertainty made this a very difficult task for me. I think it was harder then the actual planking ( I am enjoying the planking BTW).

 

You are almost there. Take whatever time is needed and make it right. If you have a question, post.  All the work you do now will pay off later.

When those first few planks go on and look great, it is all worth it.  

Edited April 9, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Russ, Martin, and jplet thanks for the support guys. I do want to just jump into the planking (it's like waiting for Christmas) but I'm taking my time looking at it from every angle. Will frame the gun ports and fair some more. Am a little hesitant to take off too much, cuz like the hair on my head, it doesn't seem to grow back once it's gone.

[sport29652]

So got a little frisky tonight and started playing with the gun and oar port framing. Quickly had a this just don't look right moment. The "square-ish" 1/16 framing threw off my measurements by just enough for a big what the $&@! Moment. Made a jig for the gun ports, made the second course an easy fit but have to remove several frames and go back to square one with the gun port framing.

[russ]

The jig should make this process easier. I have seen that sort of jig used with success on many other builds.

 

Russ

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

The jig is a good thing but make sure you check the plans. The gunports sills do not follow the sweep of the hull. Something I must now go back and Re-Re-Do.

Edited April 9, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Jpett

I noticed the different angles/height on the plans. Do you know why they seem to be placed the way they are. Some seem to be higher than others Etc..... Why don't they follow the curve of the hull?

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I do not know the reason.

 

I matched the height of my gunports to a cannon I placed on some wood the thickness of the deck ( I actually made a jig for this) and will do the same when I correct my build. In the end, this is the most important thing (it is a kit).

 

I am considering using a wider piece on my repair for the top and bottom pieces (sills). Install them following the curve of the hull/deck but file/cut in the sills at the correct angle then add the side pieces.  

 

As I am a few weeks from this work, I am interested in seeing how you handle this. 

[russ]

The gunports follow the sheer (longitudinal curve) of the deck, which is not the same as the sheer of the hull.

 

Russ

[sport29652]

So looking over the plans there is a difference (slight) between Campbell and Lankford's layout of the gun ports. I this it's due to drawing the curve of the hull? So I'm going with Campbell's plans as my measurements line up nicely with his gun port set up following the curve of the deck. So I'm going all in on this one.

[russ]

Eric:

Youi definitely want your gunports to follow the deck line. You need a fairly consistent height of the gunport above the deck to make the guns fit properly.

 

Russ

[sport29652]

Thanks Russ, keeping my line with the deck we will see how it goes

[Juan Carlos]

during my build i noticed that issue about the gunports.  i decided to plank the deck, build one cannon, put it in place on the deck and using the cannon as a reference, i built the gunport frame.   i did that for every gunport. 

[sport29652]

Juan is there any chance you have a picture of yor cannon(s). Mine are a little oval looking to see some examples of this gun assembled

[sport29652]

So I assembled one carriage and made a jig to help align the others. So that's the simple part, the laser cut basswood wheels are far from round. Sanding them would be a huge challenge, ive had buggars bigger than these wheels (sorry for the dark humor got to get my frustration out). Wondering how other people have addressed this?

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric 

 

I am not using the "home made pizza wheels" either

 

I cut new ones from a dowl that came in the kit.

[russ]

I think that cutting new ones might be the best option. However, be careful when using a ready made dowel. they are often cross grained and that can be a problem.

 

However, if your dowel is suitable, then drill a small hole into the middle of the end grain. You can use the point of a knife blade to make a center mark in the end grain so that the drill bit does not wander. Drill down just a bit and then go to a slightly larger bit until you get the size hole you need. You can leave it a bit small and then ream it out with a round jeweler's file. To cut off the wheel from the dowel, use a miter box and a razor saw to make the cut. You can clean up the faces of the wheel with an emory board to get it to the thickness you want. This will take some time, but it is a good exercise in scratch building. It may take you a few tries to get good results, but with a little practice, you can do it.

 

Russ

[sport29652]

Thanks Russ, using your advice and my newest toy (Ryobi mini lathe from a pawn shop $50 with tools) I made some new wheels. So I used Jpetts method for tree nails, but instead i made axels out out tooth picks. I can make the wheels smaller but here's my first go at it. Oh yea red paint for the carriages right?

 

Now that I have a gun carriage I will use it to Check my gun ports.

[russ]

Eric:

That carriages looks pretty good. Ideally, the front wheels are larger than the rear wheels, but since the plans probably do not call for that, you should be okay with both front and back the same size.

 

Red for the carriages was very prevalent back in that time period. They used a good deal of red on the inboard surfaces. It was easily had and inexpensive.

 

Russ

[Martin W]

Hi Eric -- that carriage looks good!  I too used a dowel for my carriage wheels, just cutting a whole bunch of them on my Byrnes table saw (I assumed that I would lose a good many of them).  And I had to find a dowel that was pert near perfect with tight grain. 

 

Congratulations on that mini lathe -- a real find!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

Thanks for the tip on the tool shopping. I won’t be driving by those pawn shops anymore.

 

The cannon looks great. This documentation was originally posted on my forum and very helpful to me.

 

 

[sport29652]

Will try to make the different diameter wheels for the gun carriages and will post pics later. One last question paint the wheels? Black ? Grey? What would be authentic.

 

Yes pawn shops are great you can get some great tools for cheep, but you really have to look at the tool cuz their is some junk out there. You can always find Machinist tools at pawn shops for good prices too

Edited April 15, 2013 by sport29652

[russ]

I would paint the wheels (called trucks) the same as the carriage.

 

Russ

[JPett]

_{Ahoy Eric}

 

_{I have seen wheels which were wooden and stained with an iron band around them}

 

_{It was a good look}

 

_{I might try this}

 

_{My plan is to use a brass tube to punch out the circles and then cut the tube with the wood still in there}

 

_{Please note: I have not tried this and only just came up with it}

Edited April 15, 2013 by JPett

[russ]

The trucks with the iron band around them were used on land based artillery, like in a fort. The iron bands were to protect the wooden trucks from stone surfaces. Shipboard cannons would not have had iron bands that I know of. That would be hard on the wooden decks. The British did not use them and I am fairly certain the Americans would not use them either.

 

Russ

[JPett]

Ahoy Russ

 

So much for that plan "lol" Thx