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Found 6 results

  1. Hello everyone Are we re-posting everything from start of the project, or from where we are at present contents http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/ workshop makeover http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/page-2#entry7118 beakhead chase cannons http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/403-hms-victory-by-kevin-caldercraftjotika-172/page-5
  2. Hello friends of the smaller ships out of the line of sight of the three-decker-enthusiastic public! An additive foreword: Due to my working situation I am parttime in the NL in a small hotel without any possibilities to model anything. And the problem is for me being so tired that I'm not able to concenreate to do anything more than monkey work or pure reading. But in the other hand there is nothing to do elsewhere in town - so I'm forced to stay in my hotelroom filling my time. (I do not use the TV due to semireligious matters.) By reading Ian McLaughlan's fantasic book „The Sloop of War 1650-1763“ - I came across the chapter about the French Corvette and Privateer Construction. In here I saw her the first time and fall in love to „La Amarante“ a little masterpice of Blaise Ollivier. Built at Brest in 1747 she shows all the decorational pomp of the late baroque/early rokkoko in a limited area on a ship able to fit a flat's livingroom even in 1:36. But for my travels dutys I halfed the size. The ship is drawn by the fanstastic Delacroix and publiced in a Ancre style monography for around £90. The drawings are amaizing and due to my future regular business travels to NL I can't work on a model in hotel. (Okay I could, but than I would need a new hotel to stay.) I am too tired not to harm even a card model. So I'll spend my free hours far away from family by recherche work on L'Amarante. This due to the factum that Delacroix's drawings and the contemporary drawings of the transom differ. Also I like to figure out more of the details. This work will be the fundament for the scratchbuilding and for several month hardly anything will happen on the shipyard. The fact is I can only work with the very „omni-glot“ part of the book - the drawings; as I never had had got more than a couple of French lessons at school at all. In the 80th Delacroix book was still unwritten and my person didn't know about him - but if, I would have been more enthusiastic about French lessons if I would know about L'Amarante! Inbetween I was able to scale the drawings down to 1/72 to start a mobile try-it-out project. You find the photos arround here. As I do not own a mill a PoF-model is impossible - so I do plan a vaneer covered plywood pile hull. My idea is to use the drawings of the frames to cut out as filled - so as bulkheads. The bulkheads pileon bukkheads with fillers between them to a hull - a PoB-model with the number of bulkheads as frames would be on a PoB&F-model. I have th number fo the 52 frames but I'm building 52 bulkhads plus filling pices. So the surface is very large to glue 1 to 1,5mm vaneer on it. But I never tryed! So I have got the one and only question: Is my way a silly thing to do to a 550mm hull? So I'm singing „Richmond is a hard road to travel“ and do start with some pictures from my collection for you. Best wishes to all of you.
  3. To be honest, the boat in this diorama will be built near the end of the project. The diorama is going to be a working lift-span bridge with a boat traversing underneath it. The bridge fits on a 2.4 x 1.2 m (8 x 4 ft) tabletop. The scale is 1/72. There are no available plans for the bridge. Created my own plans from photographs and two diagonal reference measurements (road width and span length). An antiquated control console of the actual bridge will be converted to operate the model. Created my own electronics for the diorama. I am a volunteer for the Ballina Naval & Maritime Museum. They are funding the material costs. The diorama will be an interactive display for the museum. This is my second model I have ever built. The first was done 26 years ago. It was a 1/10 scale working Tesla coil used in Colorado Springs in 1899. The current model is halfway to completion. My task is not to make an exact reproduction, but a close simile. Available materials limit the accuracy, but I endeavour to do what I can. The boat is not following any plan other than my own. It has to look symmetrical because the boat only travels along a straight line under the bridge forward and back. Seventy percent of the project will not be directly related to the boat. I have considered the Shore Leave forum but felt that it would get in the way of all those fun threads and other non-modelling topics. So I hope you all don't mind me being here. The model is based on this bridge located at Wardell, NSW, Australia. The display area for the diorama will be something like this.. There are quite a few photographs to upload - to catch up to where I am currently at. When I do catch up I'll let you know in the post. to be continued.
  4. Ive decided to move out of the tin shed and back into the brick outhouse and re work to a better standard:) So it begins...its gonna take time, its gonna take money, so little by little each weekend I'm plugging away. I'm finally going start cleaning and converting my original brick shed I used when I first started making model boats, I moved out when it got too cold and mice and spiders and all those horrible little bugs get in, the models were getting in a mess, I then moved into the 'tin shed' BUT my tools and work area are expanding. I have a complete vision of what I want to achieve but some work needs to be done. The first is too have a clear space to work but still continue to have a workshop (tin shed) to continue building my models. I have 3 shed....2 brick and one tin shed, it's a case of moving things around to achieve a clear space to work. The picture shows the main problem, I need to block up and seal the roof, any heating will just disappear, this is the dreaded asbestos concrete roofing, I have been assured that as long as I don't break or disturb the roof then it will be ok. As you can see I did start filling the joins but need to finish this off..the wood that I put up some years back will come down and I will treat the underside of the roof with Bituminous paint, a sort of seal. Ive never had a leak from this roof in the last 14 years Ive been in this house so I'm confident. I'll then be adding loft insulation and plasterboard's for ceiling to seal the whole thing. That's got to be the first aim..to seal the roof. The next stage in my vision is to render the walls, something ive never done before and I will only be skimming rather than the full 2 or 3 layer render, this will then be painted with masonry white paint. The floor is concrete and needs no work, but there are small gaps that will need filling (render) close to the floor on the walls. Once the whole shed has been 'sealed' the fun bit starts...to build the workbench and plan a perfect 'man's' workshed This has one window that the housing association put in years ago...double glazed..perfect, the door thought will need dealing with. For me this makes sense, the 'tin shed' is ok but as I'm sure most of you have some very expensive tools that need looking after..a brick shed is far better protected than the 'tin shed' please comment on anything I'm doing here..I'm no expert. So that were I started in October 2012.......
  5. Hi Folks, after 9 months I´m back at service and I open my Shipyard again........ I had some health problems but everything is good and I want to show you my new project.....! The HMS Victory Cross-Section, it shows you the part from the mainmast. I change some things as in the kit. At first I use pearwood 2x5mm and inside 1,5x4mm stripes and second I build light inside the ship. But look, here are the first pictures:
  6. Hi With the Corel Victory cross section almost completed we ( me and my son ) decided to start on this build. I will bash the kit as and when we come to it. Lots of little things as far as I can see. We started by removing the frames from the laser cut boards. some boards were distorted a little but this is not cause for concern. a very sharp knife was used for this cutting both sides of the board. We then sanded most of the charring from the frames with a nail board. made easy work of the charring. All the frames were offered together and with minimum sanding to make a perfect fit. Then glued the frames together in place over photocopies of the master frame drawing.(7 frames 7 copies). Then all the frames were sanded and excess glue removed then stacked together with a false keel and cocktail sticks to check alignment. They all looked spot on to me Then we built a jig to hold the frames while assembling the keel and the frames. Degostini just used a scrap bit of the laser board as a spacer. Not to my liking as its easy to get a twist in the assembly at this point. What’s not shown is the square that fits on the top to hold everything square. And the Back board made from MDF with a photocopy of the master frame drawing. That’s about it now until next weekend when my son visits. Regards Antony and Karl.

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