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  1. Before you get any further I think you need to take a short break and get this book "Rigging Period Ships" by Lennarth Petersson. I know it covers one specific three masted ship but it will give you a good working idea on how the rigging runs, attachments, what loops over what etc.If the only instructions you currently have are one or two rigging plans (illustrations) this will help you make sense of it all. If you're like me you want to get it all done "NOW" but it's well worth stopping for a short time and getting this book. Don't know where you're based but EBay is a pretty good place for this item. I know yours is from an earlier period but the basic mechanics would be similar enough that securing points etc. should be fairly obvious then.
  2. Standing rigging first i.e. shrouds and stays then the running rigging and I find working from prow to stern is easiest order otherwise you tend to be trying to work within rigging you've already installed. Pre assemble as much of the mast and spars as possible off the hull then start by stepping the lower masts and standing rigging then the next level of masts etc. Hope this is what you're looking for.
  3. 24 solar panels on the house so the heater I run doesn't cause any cost problems.
  4. I seal my hull/decking once I've finished that section, I find it easier to clean grubby marks due to handling after sealing than trying to work round deck fittings later. Only catch is that when fixing furnishings etc. you do have to scrape back any sealant for the glue to take but that's only a minor problem.
  5. Thanks Blue Ensign exactly what I was hoping to see but just didn't look in the right places! :-(
  6. Just a thought - with the smaller craft where the rudder extends up through the deck and is controlled by a tiller bar. Is there any type of seal to prevent/slow down water being forced up the hole that the rudder is mounted in. I realise that in many craft this is above the waterline but would expect that wave action would still cause water to flow through there at times.
  7. You may need to rethink this - remember that these demi-gods do have the power to do magic things with your account if the feel in any way slighted.
  8. In a word "no". As Pat explained the expansion/compression will cause problems, in addition if you use a water based glue it will come undone whilst soaking. It's not that hard to pre-bend and then fit the inner planks - just need a lot of clips to hold it firmly on the bulwarks as you glue it.
  9. I started off gluing mine in but thrn changed to allowing the rigging to hold it in place correctly. I actually found it easier to position the mast this way and fine adjustments were also easy just by tensioning or slackening the relevant shrouds.
  10. Part of the reason I took the photo. This little ship does hour long trips around Port Phillip bay and so any pointy bits need some sort of covering to stop land lubbers from injuring themselves on them.
  11. This pin is on a replica of an 1830's topsail schooner. It's about 15" long - hope it helps.
  12. Looks beautiful - couldn't you have legitimately put this in the "Scratch built Small Boats" section? I don't see any limitation on scale there! Rick
  13. Wefalck Chuck used contemporary plans from the NMM site -there are a number available if you search "planking expansion". Rick
  14. Mark - you were commenting on the importing of wood for decks, I'm wondering about minimum lengths of planking for hulls. With something like a 50ft cutter trying to get a good shift pattern on the hull would be quite hard without using lengths down to 10ft (5ft would be nice but I'd think not particularly effective). Rick