Rick01

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  1. Looks like replying is OK. What search engine and software are you both using? I'm using Windows 10 and Chrome.
  2. Let's see what we've got that is venomous:- Red back spider, Sydney Funnelweb spider, Blue Ring octopus, Stonefish, assorted sharks, salt water crocodile, snakes including Taipan, Tiger, Brown, Death Adder, Copperhead, Mulga, then there's the Platypus, or if you fancy just being kicked to death, Cassowaries and Red or Grey Kangaroos are available. Ooops forgot the irukandji jelly fish - he's about 1cc in size and probably the most venomous jellyfish in the world.
  3. No they're pretty harmless really and keep the insects down. If you stir them up they'll rear up waving their front legs and you can hear the fangs clashing with the bigger ones.
  4. Basically we haven't really been interested in little household spiders. If you want something decent then this is more like it. Waking up to one of these sitting on the ceiling above your bed can be quite exciting - specially when it has a leg span of around 15 cm! Better still is when you look up as you're driving along and on the sun visor you see the tips of two legs peeping over the edge with a massive gap between them.
  5. I have a large sheet of MDF and just use bulldog clips to hold the plans, propping the plans up behind my worktop.
  6. Thanks for the help everyone it's given me something to work with now.
  7. Vessel is an 1830 topsail schooner built in Hobart. Profiles as attached. There are no original plans of the schooner but this plan was drawn up by Karl Heinz Marquardt based on drawings of the Topsail Schooner Enterprize and ship building practices common at that time. Length over deck 53', beam 18' 4", draft 10' Hope this helps.
  8. I'm having a problem understanding a section of a plan for a 1830 topsail schooner. There appears to be an anomaly surrounding the hawse hole for the anchors. From the attachecopy you can see that there appears to be a hole well forward to allow the anchor cable to be pulled aboard but it is situated below the deck level. From above there doesn't appear to be any way for the cable to be fed round the windlass but at the same time it appears that there is (possibly) a hole in the deck alongside the fore mast which I would guess as being for the cable to be fed down to the rope locker. Can anyone clarify these points please.
  9. This is only guesswork, however I would expect to see the double system used on heavier yards. Having said that I've seen more use of the double system than the single and my knowledge of nautical terminology/usage is so close to zero as makes no difference. I tend to look at things on a purely mechanical basis.
  10. As far as I can see truss pendants were used where an obstacle of some sort would prevent the yard being fully lowered if held by parral trucks as in the rigging for cutters and topsail schooners. Oversimplified but it works for me.
  11. If you haven't already have a look at the various posts on here regarding the Mermaid - nice kit but with a few inaccuracies. By the way "Welcome".
  12. I'd say it's quite acceptable - check some of the other builds of this model for detail on the possible problems you may find. I finished a build of it recently but modified the rigging fairly extensively using L. Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore-and-aft Craft" as a guide as the kit is somewhat over simplified.
  13. Before you get any further I think you need to take a short break and get this book "Rigging Period Ships" by Lennarth Petersson. I know it covers one specific three masted ship but it will give you a good working idea on how the rigging runs, attachments, what loops over what etc.If the only instructions you currently have are one or two rigging plans (illustrations) this will help you make sense of it all. If you're like me you want to get it all done "NOW" but it's well worth stopping for a short time and getting this book. Don't know where you're based but EBay is a pretty good place for this item. I know yours is from an earlier period but the basic mechanics would be similar enough that securing points etc. should be fairly obvious then.
  14. Standing rigging first i.e. shrouds and stays then the running rigging and I find working from prow to stern is easiest order otherwise you tend to be trying to work within rigging you've already installed. Pre assemble as much of the mast and spars as possible off the hull then start by stepping the lower masts and standing rigging then the next level of masts etc. Hope this is what you're looking for.