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  1. Heads up for you - if you haven't already I'd dump the furry rigging thread AL supply and change to one of the others. I use mainly Amati, it's much better quality without any of the fluff that the AL stuff has. I'm using a combination of 1 mm black for the main stay, .5 mm and .1 mm in both black and natural for the balance of the standing and running rigging. Looks more proportional to me. Rick
  2. I'm thinking I should let you get ahead of me for a while then I can check with you for instruction errors/omissions. ๐Ÿ˜‰ I'm just starting on the masts already I've one error, but at least it isn't hard to fix. Main mast requires the top to be painted black for 62 mm, the only trouble is that the cheeks fitted under the "crows nest" are 26 mm long which added to the 52 mm tip of mast to "crows nest" isn't the 62 mm indicated on the instructions!! So it needs 80 mm of black to work properly. The next bit is just personal preference. I can't see that the shrouds on th
  3. I based my thoughts on the traveller on a number of cutters built during the appropriate period, this link gives a close-up of the bowsprit for le Cerf a slightly larger French cutter of a similar period. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html . I agree the bowsprit does retract but probably no more than the length of the squared off section, however as my experience with sailing is in a negative value I can only look and guess based on what seems to me to be the simplest solution. ๐Ÿ˜‰ There is one item I've added and that's the bilge pumps which you may also s
  4. Quick "Heads Up". Have you looked at the rigging book yet? Not the best one I've ever seen and there appear to be a number of short cuts being used. It seems to be missing the traveller with its in-haul and out-haul. As far as I can see this has just been replaced by a block wired to the end of the bowsprit, so it you're near fitting it you may want to consider constructing the traveller ring etc. before fitting the end ring on the bowsprit. Do you have any other books giving basic rigging for this type of ship? It will help interpret these instructions. Rick
  5. You're welcome to use any ideas I put up - that's what the forum is all about! With my bowsprit I've made a separate octagonal section that I intended fitting to a shortened dowel (after tapering). Before I go down that route however I think I'll try your method. By the way, that's a lovely paint job you've done, talking of which I'm puzzled by the suggestion that gun port lids be painted red on the inner face. This will end up with a rather odd checkerboard pattern on the inner face of the gunwales, just doesn't make sense to me. I'm actually considering leaving the lids off as 99% of all cut
  6. Don't despair - I've got one where I stripped almost a whole side off as I just couldn't get it sitting right. Have you considered sanding the thin edge at a slight angle so that they meet more closely? I'm happy if I get a couple of planks on in a day and even now there are times when I use a wood putty on the first layer! Rick
  7. It's not looking that bad at the moment. You'll be putting a second planking on it so remember that you can cover a multitude of sins that way. Are you soaking the planks to help bend them? It really helps. Some of those gaps are going to show slightly from the inside so it's either ignore, make some wood putty up using sawdust from one of those planks mixed with a little PVA glue, or soak the plank off and re-glue it down a little tighter. We've all been through this stage and to be honest I still can't plank neatly! I'm thinking that from the exterior anyway a little fill and sanding of the
  8. Welcome Andrew - beginning to look like we have enough Aussies to set up a sub-forum by now! Rick (Another Locked Down Victorian) ๐Ÿ™‚
  9. ... and my revised boat davits and boat. The davits and cross bar were doubled in thickness 5mm removed from the davits length and the holes for the block and tackle were set back 5 mm from the end. This is all based on a couple of photos I found on line for the replica and make more sense than the kit version. The boat is also built as a clinker design. Rick
  10. Whilst I'm re-writing the instructions I've made an executive decision and gone down a different route for the fore fife rail. This is an illustration of belaying pin spacing on a working replica ship of the same period. This is the fife rail with pins fitted as per kit instructions. Very close together, I am using slightly larger pins but even with the metal ones supplied it was still to tight. So off came the original rail, a quick look around the internet and I've come up with an acceptable solution based on other contemporary models. You'll also no
  11. Remember that the davits holding the boat will hide some "mis-fitting" of the cap rail. However as with the catheads these will need to be doubled in thickness. Currently the kit asks you to believe that the ship's boat is held safely by a couple of 2 metre lengths of timber 10 cm sq. Here's my version. ... and here's an illustration of a more realistic method of rigging the lifts. Similar to the catheads rigging. I've been looking at the various photos of the replica and it seems that the arms should also be shorter as the boat when hoist appears very
  12. Much better idea - I've a nasty little problem where my cap rail doesn't sit neatly with the transom as the latter was fitted first and ended up positioned a fraction low. ๐Ÿ‘ฟ Rick
  13. ... and how long before all the surfaces are covered again! ๐Ÿ˜‰ I never seem able to keep my work area tidy for more than five minutes. Rick
  14. I'm working on the prow and have attached the belaying pin rail but had to add a brace each end as there was insufficient room on the capping rail to attach according to the plans. Note also the reinforcing bar is running prow to stern not port to starboard. Just about every ship of this size I've seen has had the mainstay braced by lines through a block or heart down to 3 or 5 holes in the prow not to a single pin. Tip here use a heavy black cartridge paper soaked in PVA glue easier to work and looks just like a metal reinforcing strip. Given the pressures involved I
  15. Looking good there - it's surprising what a little paint will disguise but from what I can see I don't think you need worry about them not being presentable. We're all going a little stir crazy at the moment but this sort of occupation does help keep us sane (sort of). Rick ๐Ÿ™‚
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