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  1. Check section 18 p28 & p29 where tapering is discussed. I've built this as my first model (check my link) and all I used was tapering. A 10 minute soak in water is then sufficient to bend the plank into shape. Drop planks and stealers aren't really needed on this kit. Rick
  2. I think you'll find the answer to this problem (and many more, here http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf Rick
  3. Melbourne - you may surf in the morning, go snow skiing in the afternoon and dine in international restaurants that evening! 🙂 Rick
  4. Carronades now fitted to carriages and installed. Purchased from Cornwall Model Boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=carronade&PN=RB-Model-Fittings-Carronade-20mm-RB01123.html#SID=1251 . They had to be amended slightly as the extension on the rear of the barrel just didn't seem right. So this was removed reducing the overall length to 20mm after re-fitting the button, much nearer the 17mm I was hoping for.
  5. I skipped them deliberately and have been waiting for someone to mention them. I didn't like them from the start, noted that no provision was made for them on the cutaway sketch so queried it on this forum. I was told (can't remember who) that it was quite possible that they in fact had pumps that could be taken down/rigged only when needed. Given that King took the time to show the binnacle which is not a fixture, the ship's boat and the beam in the crews' quarters that is the main support for the windlass I felt that omitting any pumps was a fair assumption. As you say it is crowded although there is space either before the binnacle or just aft of the main hold, but only this spot would allow a pump a straight line access to the deepest part of the holds. If you do go with them I'd guess around 12~15 mm would work as a reasonable size. Glass - I scrounged some 2 mm glass from a local glazier but went for white card under. Still gives the impression of a void but (to me) isn't quite so "in your face". 🙂
  6. Slight optical illusion, at worst when on full recoil there's still around 65 cm clearance either side of the centre line as angled they'll run back into the area covered by the binnacle (which would have been struck below when clearing for action). As they are going to be exchanged for carronades there will be extra room there anyway. 🙂 Even with the additional pinrail I still only have around 12 belaying pins unused - this will just about allow for sails and those other odds and ends needing to be temporarily tied down. We've working topsail schooner at Melbourne modelled on an 1817 ship and she carries 22 belaying pins for a single mast controlling a similar sail layout to the cutter. I'm in agreement over the main hold but I have seen this system used and it was likely to destroy the decking if I tried to rebuild it so I've decided to stay with it (the guy who designed this has a lot to answer for). Once my carronades arrive I'll mount them and make a couple more alterations to the rigging mainly in securing points - if you like I can post them here and explain what/why it's been done. Rick
  7. Hi James - I've remodelled my decking layout up at the bows having spent a little more time studying the cut-away sketch. Complete re-build of the windlass as the cut-away seems to show it having it's "support" as a beam dropping down through the crew quarters and a number of period windlass' have the extra belaying pins mounted as I have. In addition I reversed the sliding hatch cover for the crew access as it didn't seem to work the way it was originally. I also had to move both the cat-head and bowsprit stays so that the anchors could in fact be hoist properly (unlike the model plans). Waiting on stuff from Cornwall Model Boats to finish the carronades and one or two other items towards the stern. Apologies if I have hijacked your thread but I thought this may save you some head scratching down the line. 😞 Rick
  8. Thanks - that confirms pretty much how I thought it would all run. Rick
  9. Can't go past "Float-a-boat" for help and supplies. I use them quite frequently but, depending on how urgent my need is, I also use https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/index.html stock there is brilliant, prices great (ex-20% GST) UK postal rates cheap and delivery is fast. Yesterday I ordered 2 x 20mm carronade barrels plus a packet of 10mm wooden cleats from them at a total cost including postage of $10.00. This is what the barrels alone would have cost over here before I paid petrol or postage and I'm only 25 km from Float-a-boat. Rick
  10. Yes - The commander has shown this fairly clearly in a number of sketches of her under sail. With the help here I can now envisage how it's rigged but there's one last question. I understand the sheet and it's use but when the sail is not hoist what is done with the end that would be attached to the sail. It has to come back to deck level so does it come down to a belaying pin/cleat on the bulwarks or back to a cleat on the mast below the boom jaws? I'd guess the latter so that it doesn't restrict the movement of the main sail. Thanks for the help so far everyone. Rick
  11. Here's the modified companionway. Lowered and flattened as per the sketches. ... and dropped in to place but not yet glued. I may have some more work to do here when I've clarified how a flying gaff is rigged, possibly more cleats for rigging. Rick
  12. I missed the point about the ladder and think you're probably correct there. Looking at the original sketch I always felt there was a slight slope to the top towards the aft which would have made sense as you really don't need a flat surface for water to sit on. The height is going to need to be cut down by 3~4 mm ! There isn't any set convention on orientation, in fact with cutters it seems you get a basic hull then outfit it to you personal taste ! I like your rudder and will confess that I still have trouble mounting this particular item. Gunports are now open but I'm not doing anything about the others - I'm really not sure if they were painted on blanks as was sometimes done, or actual ports. there are a couple that really would have been impossible to fight, the one between the stays and the one at the bows with the windlass immediately behind it. Rick
  13. Firstly excuse my lack of correct terminology. I'm re-working my first model H M Cutter Mermaid and where the kit has a top sail all original documents indicate a flying Gaff. However I'm unable to find anything which shows clearly what rigging I should have on the mast and gaff to support this. I assume a block at the mast head to hoist it and then one foot of the sail would be controlled by a line directly to point on the bulwarks, the other sail foot seems to be fixed in some manner to the tip of the gaff. Is this in fact through another block and again down to the bulwarks? I can't see that they'd lower the sail just to attach the gaff sail before flying it. Hope this makes some sort of sense. Rick
  14. Here's a shot of my deck layout and companionway. I've got to remove mine (as I said) and reverse it and possibly lower it a little to match the cutaway sketch. Next shot is the spreader using a more sensible method than in the instructions, it does mean re-building the lower mast cap. Next some much needed extra belaying pins at the transom (that tiller has to be re-built). and some more detail on the companionway now it's been detached. Note that using the kitchen bench to work on isn't recommended except when the admiral happens to be some 10,500 miles away and hasn't got the password to this forum! Rick
  15. Just to add confusion to things this article https://www.arc.id.au/Cannon.html gives average barrel length for carronades as 32" so scaled to 1:48 this is 17mm. Smallest carronade barrel I can find is 20mm so I'm going to go with that and then build my own carriage. This looks to be around 2/3rds the length of the barrel on those not on slides so I'll work around that. Rick

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