Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,434 profile views
  1. When you come to fitting the gun tackle you may want to try smaller blocks than those provided. I've used 3 mm and also added the restraining rope to the carronade itself. Still not as good as I'd like but I just can't handle 2 mm blocks! I've also dug up a pair of 6lb cannon left over from another build and will add these at the prow. I haven't completed the tackle yet as I'm waiting on a mail order - we're in complete lockdown so it's mail or nothing at the moment. Rick
  2. Have you offered up the carronades to see that they all clear the ports? I found that I'd slipped the gunwales down a fraction and the barrels of the central two guns fouled the ports and needed the slide base sanded down a little to allow them to fit neatly. Rick
  3. Deck layout I'm using. A number of items have been omitted as they appear to be requirements on the replica. Items at the bow not yet installed as a couple of 4lb cannon need to be built and space needs to be checked.
  4. Inspired guess here. Block/wedge under the keel, then ropes from the eyebolts in the gunwales that would secure the cannon/carronades, over the hull and across to eyebolts along or near to the centreline. These latter should be there anyway to pull the cannon inboard. Rick
  5. I recall that when I was researching my version I saw a note somewhere that one of the boats was "broken down" and stored below. However I can't now recall where that was. By the way the instructions with the kit are not the best with the deck furnishings not positioned as per King's sketch and in particular the topsail yard should be "flying" and the halyards for the gaff also not per the sketch. There are some other problems but I can't remember them at the moment. 😞 Rick
  6. Tip of the day. Cut the hole for the rudder (page 41), BEFORE fitting assembly K (page 23). Less chance of splitting decking planks or finding the rudder post binds against the transom. Not saying this may have happened to me , however ... Rick 🙂
  7. Quick tip for you. If you haven't put the bars in your deck furnishings yet, get a long .6 mm or .75 mm drill and run it through the holes that the bars fit in. I found that the holes didn't line up perfectly and had problems fitting the bars until I ran the drill through and effectively lined them up. As for the bars themselves I just heated them up til they glowed then cooled them, it gave an authentic iron colour without having to paint! Should add that I'm using a roll of .75 mm steel wire instead of the supplied item - you can afford to make a lot of mistakes cutting correct lengths when you've got 10 metres of it! I'm a couple of steps ahead of you at the moment having just finished the hull painting. Rick
  8. Hi - I've built one ship from Modellers Shipyard, HM Cutter Mermaid. Ideal for you with it's Australian history, regretfully it's not the most accurate kit given how much information is out there but there are a number of good builds on this forum that detail this little cutter well and it's not at all hard to alter the kit slightly to become a truer model. It was my second build and I found it straight forward and gave a pleasing result. Rick
  9. If you check the companionway here you can get an approximation of the side profile and it should really only be wide enough for a man to get down the steps/ladder. It looks as if the binnacle here has a slightly sloped top and the compass and oil lamps at the top. Rick
  10. Don't know if you've found this site http://renard.dechorgnat.com/index.html which covers some of the errors that appear in both the Soclaine and AL kits. Also there is no windlass and the anchor cable appears to go into the hull rather than onto the deck then down to the rope locker via a windlass. There wouldn't be room for a windlass below decks on a cutter so hoisting the anchor via a windlass or by hand appear to be the only option. Another possible error is with the siting of the various deck furnishings. Coming forward from the stern there's an item that may or may not be the binnacle housing for the compass almost directly after that is a companionway. These are sited so close together on the plan that you would not be able to open the doors on the companionway fully, in addition the binnacle is fixed to the deck but my understanding is that it would be lashed down and could then be stored below decks during any action. In fact the AL kit seems to be a copy of the replica with its amendments to comply with current regulations not of the original. Rick
  11. I've always used a dilute PVA glue on knots, likewise a very dilute solution used to soak the flags allows you to move them into any position you want. This is best experimented with beforehand to get the correct solution - sorry but I can't remember the ratios! Rick
  12. Have you looked around at previous builds of this model. There's a very good one by Vossiewulf ( although unfinished) that would be worth your while looking at. Easy way to hold the false deck down it using a number of heavy duty rubber bands. Rick
  13. Not quite sure if this counts as weather but here's a view from my veranda yesterday at 11.15 am I'm about 250 km south of the bushfires and the wind is enough to blanket us with smoke. We're pretty safe here but I just hope the rest of our Australian members can say the same. Rick😢
  14. This may not be the case. If you position them that way you effectively block all fore/aft access due to the position of the companionway. When it was carrying a full complement of boats I'd have thought one would be hung off the stern and another two nested one side or the other to allow a speedy movement of crew either port or starboard side. Rick
  15. On the cutaway it's pretty clearly half way between the windlass and the bow and would have to be off-set to allow access for the crew. I'm very doubtful about using a grating style as it's not exactly waterproof without some type of cover which would make crew accessing it pretty cumbersome. The one you've illustrated behind the bowsprit is actually an access to the rope locker and you can see the anchor cable going through it. To provide waterproof access I can't see any other option than a sliding hatch given how tight space is in that area. Rick Ps It's funny but I was only thinking of you two a few days back and wondering why you hadn't come back given how well you were both doing!

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...