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Kurt Johnson

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About Kurt Johnson

  • Birthday 03/31/1951

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    kurtrjohnson@yahoo.com

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  1. It was the Dark Titebond so it was kinda mocha color and cures brown, as for smell I don't remember any, its already in dumpster. I always score the surfaces with a new knife blade. Unfortunately in this particular instance I really can't clamp it, its too delicate, even for rubber bands. I usually try and peg joints some how with brass wire. I may end up trying to do that in the end. Thanks, Kurt
  2. I recently have been having a number of glue failures on the model I'm working, and have come to question the glue. It is Titebond 2, but its at least 2 years old, so maybe its shot. I went to Lowes to get new glue. I noticed that Titebond has Quick & Thick Multi Surface Glue. It says its a Thixiotropic PVA , titebond 2 is a cross linking PVA, not sure how that would effect what we do. Does anyone have any experience using it? It supposedly drys clear and has some gap filling properties, clamping time is half Titebond 2, 15 minutes and opposed to 30 minutes. I bought both. Any chemists among us have any thoughts? Kurt
  3. U.S.S. Arizona

    Did you try looking in Modelwarships.com?
  4. I didn’t know you had actually physically started on her. You’re really too much!! Things must be a little slow now, you’ve only got 10 seperate projects going at the same time, breaking every few minutes to crank out a few hundred blocks and a mile or so of rope. One day you’re going to become a supernova and disappear. I like the joints on the bottom version, very realistic. Kurt
  5. I personally would like to see the long boat. Since I’m currently working on the Queen Anne barge it would be a nice addition, being the same scale and period. I definitely think it should be a small subject that could be completed in a reasonable amount of time. The amount of time required for say the Winnie and the space required, I would think be difficult to keep a group of people focused on to complete the project. Having it available as a starter package or as a complete kit would open the project up to a wider group of people. If someone wanted just the plans so they could scratch build it they could always go that route. I would be willing to pay for such a starter package or kit. I don’t see how anyone could expect not to. How much, depends on what it is. The cheapest kits are around $50 to $75 and that doesn’t buy very much. I would imagine it would be much better quality, so $100 to 150 wouldn’t be unreasonable. $75 for plans would also be reasonable. Something non military, like the sharpie or Michael’s pilot boat (not in 1/8, I don’t have the room) would be kinda nice. Kurt
  6. Thanks Joshua, I hope I can return the favor some day. Kurt
  7. Tick strip

    Using a paper guide to determine the length between sheer and keel to help determine plank width. I’ve done a few times but with big chunks of time between doing it. Actually, now that I think about it should be the depth of the rabbet. The first one from the bottom is the garboard.
  8. I’m having a senior moment, and need a kick start. When you make a tick strip for planking, do you start (or end it) from the depth of the rabbet or the surface of the keel. It should be obvious, but at this particular moment it ain’t. Kurt
  9. I'm trying to get a copy of the Shipwright's Apprentice section (pages 82 -86) from Ships-in-Scale Jan/Feb issue 2009. I can't find my CDs anywhere. Would anyone be able to help? Thanks. Kurt
  10. Amazing optivisor light

    Good luck.
  11. Amazing optivisor light

    Mark, The internet has it’s down side. Just yesterday I drove to this Electronics store near me, a real one that was like an old time hardware store. You could poke around forever, finding this and that. The building was empty, they gave up. About a year ago, the only real hobby shop in my area closed. That hurt. I use the internet, the UPS guy has become like family now. I’m am Amazon super duper Prime guy. I don’t like EBay that much. I miss going to the store, seeing and feeling what things are like. BS-ing with the people at the stores. That’s life. Gaetan, Like I had said to you, I have a number of lights and most likely will be getting a new brighter one. Still like the one on the Optivisor, its always pointing at where I’m glancing. I like tinkering. I can never figure why some threads will go on for a bit and others die at the get go. Maybe the answer is on the internet. Kurt
  12. Amazing optivisor light

    The size, shape, weight and rechargeable battery were major factors in the search. All this took was a piece of velcro to attach it. The length was the starting factor in fitting on the visor, then I tried to find the brightest that would probably fit. This worked, so I stopped looking. There are probably better solutions, but I’m happy with it (for the moment). Canadian Tire would be about a 10 hour drive, so factoring in the gas it probably wouldn’t be worth it 🙂 . Kurt
  13. Amazing optivisor light

    For sure! I am using it with a #2 Optivisor lens. The light is basically weightless, no battery weight. It really is amazing how nice it is to have good illumination without any shadows. I actually could theoretically add a second one and focus them to the same location, but that coulld be a waste of time and money. For me, its like I knocked years off my aging eyeballs. So long and short, yes, (one of those good finds). I hope I don’t have to have a disclaimer and say I haven’t any connection, but I don’t. Kurt

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