Bettina

4 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Hi,

 

It has been a long time, but thought I would update you all.

 

I no longer work for Amati, I finished in May this year (No animosity involved).  I currently work part time for a prototype model company and also do some work for Sergio Marletti, the man I connected with so well when he was design manager at Amati.

 

After some thought and a five month break, I am thinking about designing my own model range of period ships under a new kit range name. I will only design what I think people will like (and me, of course), and will make them as detailed as possible. I have received plans from the NMM for several subjects that piqued my interest, so very early days.

Fantastic news. Alas I can only press the like button once! Looking forward with great anticipation and GOOD LUCK!

It is looking fantastic. Well Done!

Dear Stuart, unfortunately I can only hit the "Like" button once, as i REALLY, REALLY, REALLY Like this!!!

Just a quick follow up for to all you kind folk who took the time in recommending a hand plane. I did buy the Lie Nielson No 100 and it is probably the best tool I have ever bought, worth every penny. Thanks to all

Like most of us following this excellent log, I was always frustrated by the lack of actual images Billings released of the Warrior. One measly promo image by Billings doesn’t really give us the detail we want to see. Anyway browsing through MSW today I saw a thread on the Nurnberg Toy Fair 2014 with a whole lot of (untitled) completed build shots of kits from companies like Corel and Billings and sure enough there are a couple of the Warrior

These really do give an idea of scale and size (although we all know we will need big shelves for this kit!).

Anyway for those interested I have pasted the link to the index of the photos below. The main Warrior shot is 8 down from right hand corner and then the bow shot is two along from that

Best wishes to all, Bettina

http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php?option=com_imagebrowser&view=gallery&folder=nuernberg2014-div&Itemid=55

Hi Holty, I got a Dremel too for my Birthday last year (best present ever!!!)

Still getting to grips with it though and a looking forward to doing some cutting very soon.....!

BTW your grating looks superb

Best wishes, Bettina

Dear Rodgerdodger, thank you for starting this log. I will be following with interest as I really like the look of this kit and have wondered how the construction would progress. All the best, Bettina

Dear Holty, I actually chose the Pegasus kit as my next build and the quality is tremendous. The difference between the Lady Nelson and Pegasus is vast in terms of wood and detailed parts. Either one will be a good choice but as Pegasus was made and designed just that bit later than Fly and is one of Amatis "new" kits, everything is just that bit better.

Best wishes, Bettina

Dear Stuart

I too am following your build. After seeing the Warrior last year I have been longing to have a go at building a model of her. However my past experience of Billing Boats have not been good due to the paucity of instructions they include with their kist, so I do wish you all the best in this and will be following the log with great interest.

For some of the finer details, I was given at Christmas an excellent book “HMS Warrior - Ironclad: Seaforth Historic Ships Series” which if you don’t already have it, I would strongly recommend. Best wishes, Bettina

Hi Holty, I used .50 thread but not the thread supplied in the kit as I found it too furry and it just looked a bit to "String" like.

I prefer Caldercraft rigging thread. Best wishes, Bettina

Dear Holty, Its really looking good. Nice and Sharp. Top tip on the eyelets which I discovered too late in the day. Plan ahead. Look at your plans re rigging etc and see what goes where for later on. Then in many cases don’t permanently fix the eyelets in place. Drill the holes and place the eyelets in situ so you know where they go but make sure they can still be removed. This will make attaching the rigging blocks etc much easier later on. Also re rigging the cannons, do this before you start rigging the boat. Trust me, it is quite hard to do accurate work on deck when you have umpteen rigging lines getting in your way, Best wishes, Bettina

Dear Holty, along with a pair of tweezers, I would also recommend buying a simple needle threader as this will make your life a lot easier for those eyelets already in place. If you don’t know what I am on about I will send you a picture and directions on how to use it.

Also for later on, you might consider some beeswax which comes in a plastic container. The thinner tan cordage supplied with this build is quite furry and can be hard to thread. You thread the line through the wax and it will cut down on the “furriness” and make the line easier to use as it becomes semi stiff so you can direct it more easily and it becomes easier to use when threading, tying knots and seizing. Again I can send you a link to the product if you like, best wishes, Bettina

Hi Holty, Great to see you back! Don’t get disheartened when you hit the wall on a build. On my last build I put it down for a good 6 months before I had the impetus to start again, as everyone knows here you have to be in the mood to sit down and tackle a problem (like those bl##dy eyelets) All the best, Bettina

Dear Daniel

No I don't have a log although I have been egged on by other members. Like many folk, I barely have enough time to build the thing never mind take photos and also to be perfectly honest, NO-ONE would learn anything from my log!
Have a go though with this model, it is a very good kit. I have built several Occre made kits and after building this (and reading other modelers views on other manufacturers) I have to say that the Amati Victory kits are second to none.

With regards to more help in assisting a first build, there are so many great kit build logs out there, especially Ray’s Lady Nelson and of course this one, come back Holty you are needed!

I also used Keith Julier’s excellent book  “The New Period Ship Handbook” 2004 which covers the Lady Nelson as one of his builds and the MSW Simple Hull Planking for beginners.

Wishing you all the best, Bettina

Hi

I am not sure if you are aware of this but there is an excellent web site called Ships of Scale where a very talented gentleman called Donnie Driskell has done a HIGHLY detailed build log of the Occre Santisima Trinidad. I would highly recommend you checking this out as you can really see the quality of the Occre kit.

http://www.shipsofscale.com/Trinidad/index.html

Best wishes, Bettina

Just wanted to say what a great job you have done on the stern and the Lady Nelson lettering. I am doing my own Lady Nelson at present and I followed your advice re paining and sanding and it came out a treat, so just wanted to say thanks for the great log and pics, all the best, Bettina

Hi, I would 100% agree with Thom. The quality of the kit is good - not the best but for £85, a bargain. It all depends on your expertise. This was my first build many years ago and due to the lack of instructions, I made a complete hash of it.

I'm also using Lie Nielsen planes : No 100 for shipmodelling and No 60 1/2 & No 4 for woodworking.

They are all top quality tools.

 

There is also a new smaller plane suitable for model making the L.N. No 101

(http://www.classichandtools.com/acatalog/Block_Planes.html)

 

 

Kostas

Dear Kostas, thank you for the advice on the alternate models and also posting the link as I am always grateful to find other sites for tools, Best wishes, Bettina

I have the L-N 100 as well.  It is razor sharp when you get it and stays sharp longer.  This little plane is the best buy for the money I have found yet.

David B

Dear David, Thank you for the alternate model, will look at this as well, Best wishes, Bettina

I use both of these Bettina:

 

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1307

 

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1313

 

And Dave is spot on, they really are "heirloom quality".  The blades are thick, heavy steel, that is finely machined.  They can be dialed down to very fine, smooth and accurate shavings as needed.

 

Cheers,

Robert

Dear Robert, Thank you once again. Brilliant stuff!, Best wishes, Bettina

Bettina

 

I personally use a bronze No.102 low angle block plane, it's solid, fits in the hand well and is a pleasure to use, it certainly makes the task of tapering masts a lot easier.

 

Dave

Thank you Dave, they are currently out of stock but I will definitely get one of these. Thanks for all your help

Bettina

 

I have to agree with Robert on this one, I use a Lie-Neilsen 102 low angle block plane and can highly recommend them, they are very high quality. They can be bought in the UK, try the Axminster's website they stock them, be warned they are not cheap, the current price of the 102 block plane is about £100-£110. The tagline used by Lie-Neilsen is that they are 'Makers of Heirloom Quality Tools' and they aren't kidding.

 

Dave

Dear Dave, yes I can see that they look superb. Again, may I ask you what you, which one(s) would recommend? Best wishes, Bettina

Hi Bettina,

 

I hate to "muddy the waters" if you've already made your choice, but I absolutely love my Lie Nielsen model maker's plane:

 

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1307

 

I also have the convex sole version.  They are a tad expensive, but the quality is fantastic!

 

Cheers,

Robert

Dear Robert

They look beautiful. Which one(s) in particular would you recommend for mast and spars? Best wishes, Bettina

Thank you to everyone who has replied to this post.

You have all given me some great ideas and also fantastic links to sites I never knew existed.

I have checked them all out and my credit card is in my hand and getting ready to have a hammering…oh happy days!!!!!!

As I am never going to be "allowed" to have a lathe at home can anyone recommend a good miniature hand plane for tapering masts and spars? Looking online there are many out there but I would rather invest in a good quality and recommended item, Best wishes, Bettina