hollowneck

Jibs, Druxey has given you good advice. Your model looks like a nice one to me; were it mine, I'd definitely find another location, away from windows. There is more than fabric rigging at stake here!😧 Ron

Bob, I like that: "Trivia Wonks." That's a "thing"for sure - and I'm going to unapologetically steal your phrase, but I'll use it "spar"- ingly. BTW: I do like my models' decks to be a little dirty**, in a weathered light-to-dark grey in fact.😏 **Note that I've set someone up with a really good punchline here. Ron

Please allow me to contribute to this conversation. I finish my deadeyes (and nearly all blocks) in a dark "chestnut" color. I use Fiebings medium brown dye which penetrates boxwood, pear, other euro woods included in kits really well. After the blocks have dried, a little wipe with a cloth cleans them up nicely and also imparts an ever-so-subtle "shine." This color may not be entirely authentic, however, I prefer it on my builds. Black, to me, is a little harsh looking; native pear blocks would be my second choice and third, native boxwood. The chestnut brown is much closer looking to actual restored blocks and deadeyes I've seen first-hand on full-size replica ships. To my eye, Lignum Vitae, a material used for sheaves, also looks darkish brown. Ron

Mike/Mark: Thanks, guys. It's a really interesting backstory. Had I not been asked to build a "votive model" I probably would never have been the wiser; it's another unique cul-de-sac in our wide-ranging hobby landscape that relates to some fascinating maritime history. I forgot to mention that if you haven't done so already, contact Nic Damuck at Bluejacket about the bits n' pieces you'll need to make this model. Obviously, you'll also need the plans if you don't have them - then, the P/E, numerous cast metal items - like nicely scaled and cast turnbuckles - and some laser cut basswood sheets. When your rescue project gets you to the rigging, give me a shout-out; I've got some tips (as well as materials) to suggest that will create a more realistically-rigged model (even without sails). Here you can see some details on how I handled all the shrouds. I substituted a grey colored (somewhat shiny polyester) thread for the shrouds since by the late-1870's they were starting to be fabricated with wire rope (not hemp) and terminated at the steel turnbuckles with swaged metal fittings. Overlook the big brass cup hook: these are for the four-point suspension "rigging" I devised to hang the "boat." 😎 Ron

Thanks Mike. I hope my pics inspire you! The model looks great without sails too. The church council (my client) and their pastor voted for sails "on the boat." Frankly, this was my part of my "incentive" to tackle realistic-looking sails, my first extensive set (16) on a period ship. I recall staring at the sail plans provided with the kit and swallowing hard; scary. But she turned-out fine once I got the hang of fabrication procedures and the unique rigging of 19th-C schooners. Most important, the client (and the congregation) are very pleased with HMS (His Majesty's Ship) Godspeed. Keep Calm. Carry On. Ron PS This coming Winter's NRG Journal will have an article I've authored on my research into votive ship models and elements of my build for Godspeed.

Mike, The Notman was a pleasure to build; there are challenges to the hull, especially the stern- however, nothing an experienced builder can't resolve successfully. This Bluejacket model is a classic and when I built mine a couple years ago, it was a commission for a church votive model; I re-badged her as HMS Godspeed. It is large, which suited my client perfectly. Here's a couple pics of how she turned out. I'm still shaking thinking about all fabricating all those sails and proper rigging!!! People love this "boat", the pastor tells me. You'll love the results too, Mike. Ron

What Good News. I, for one, have planned to buy and build this 1:64 from Amati when it was released. When the kit is a reality, I plan to also mount sails and place it in a waterline diorama (solo @Trafalgar). I presume the marketing plan for Amati will allow for a one-time full kit purchase. Speaking of purchases: as of today, one can buy the Caldercraft 1:64 Agamemnon for £790 ($803.00 USD). To earlier queries about legacy kits from Caldercraft; I believe their "pond model" business is waaaaayyyy bigger than their static model one. How many people - even dedicated modelers - can spend upwards of 1,500 hours on ONE model? This mammoth project is not only about the dosh! James: thanks for your updates and picking-up where Chris left off. Please do keep us updated on your progress. Ron

Steve, This model appears to be a Chinese knock-off of the Agamemnon kit from Caldercraft (English mfr.). It is possible that some of the components came from an aftermarket purchase of the Caldercraft Photo-etched sheets (assessing the stern area), but this is difficult to accurately determine by looking only at your photos. The cannon appear to be brass, not plastic, and there are several sources for better cannon replicas. One source is Syren Shipmodel Company (there's a link here on the main site page on the right- just scroll down to their ad). Another source is Cornwall Model Boats (in the U.K., just Google). There are other sellers of genuine turned brass cannon of differing quality. Should you decide to "upgrade" this model's cannon, be prepared to spend upwards of $250-300, based on my two vendor recommendations here (assuming you replace all of them). Others will possibly offer you other alternate sources. The most important detail about the model's cannon is that would not have been "brass"- gold and shiny, but rather, matte black (to simulate cast iron) and of more realistic scale. Another considerably less expensive alternative would be to simply paint the cannon with matte black acrylic (they will need to be removed obviously, but you would need to do this anyway for fitting replacements). Your friend can easily do this, assuming he's the builder- and, most importantly, not offended by your request...😡 This large model is certainly impressive and its builder did a reasonably good job with it. You've come to the #1 spot on the internet for opinions about ship models; good finding! Ron Secretary, Connecticut Marine Model Society www.ctshipmodels.org PS Should you have any other questions about this model, including more cannon details..shall we say, "just fire away!"😁 PPS I forgot to mention that you can also purchase cast resin (plastic), black cannon (in various sizes) from Syren Ship Model (link: https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/turned-brass-cannon.php); these will save a little money, especially if you do a entire refit.

Please tell us the name of the kit!😊 Ron

Nic, On behalf of the Connecticut Marine Model Society, our members wish you a speedy recovery. It was just a few years ago that you were our President! Your latest build is looking great. Best Regards to You, your Family, the "crew" at Bluejacket. Ron Secretary, CMMS www.ctshipmodels.org

I already look as ripped as that guy. I don't need no stink'n T-shirt!...*🤪 *But I'll buy one anyway and proudly wear it to the Conference this October. Ron

True. Syren's woods are restricted to only 15" lengths, which can be problematic. However, the restriction won't be a problem for 80% of builds. I've been spoiled in the (recent) past with Hobbymill's 24" lengths which I found ideal for my needs. My takeaway: Chuck's 15" boxwood is better than 24" unavailable boxwood. BTW: Syren will mill strips. Do check out Lumberyard as an alternative. Ron

Unfortunately, Crown Timberyard has become an unreliable source for high-quality milled hardwoods. I recommend going to Syren Ship Models for boxwood; there are other sources but this one has inventory, reasonable prices, decent quality and is owned and operated by someone who is running a real business and not just a weekend gig hobby. Ron

A warm welcome Ab, Thank you for your posts. Your work and your son's is excellent. What is his name? You will experience a very sincere and friendly group here. Like many other members, I look forward to seeing and reading your future contributions. Ron