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About hollowneck

  • Birthday 06/14/1946

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Stratford, Connecticut
  • Interests
    Music, reading, photography. Oh yeah- ship modeling!

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  1. Superb model. I'll assume the builder is a professional modeler. Museum-quality, particularly the attention to detail on the rigging. All of the wood tones are excellent; I don't like bright white hull painting myself as I find it too distracting and not faithful to the actual tallow colors of the era (before coppering). Aside from this niggling, only one other question: what happened to the yards? I'd LOVE to build a 1:26 scale 17/18th-C Royal Navy ship!
  2. Steve, This model appears to be a Chinese knock-off of the Agamemnon kit from Caldercraft (English mfr.). It is possible that some of the components came from an aftermarket purchase of the Caldercraft Photo-etched sheets (assessing the stern area), but this is difficult to accurately determine by looking only at your photos. The cannon appear to be brass, not plastic, and there are several sources for better cannon replicas. One source is Syren Shipmodel Company (there's a link here on the main site page on the right- just scroll down to their ad). Another source is Cornwall Model Boats (in the U.K., just Google). There are other sellers of genuine turned brass cannon of differing quality. Should you decide to "upgrade" this model's cannon, be prepared to spend upwards of $250-300, based on my two vendor recommendations here (assuming you replace all of them). Others will possibly offer you other alternate sources. The most important detail about the model's cannon is that would not have been "brass"- gold and shiny, but rather, matte black (to simulate cast iron) and of more realistic scale. Another considerably less expensive alternative would be to simply paint the cannon with matte black acrylic (they will need to be removed obviously, but you would need to do this anyway for fitting replacements). Your friend can easily do this, assuming he's the builder- and, most importantly, not offended by your request...😡 This large model is certainly impressive and its builder did a reasonably good job with it. You've come to the #1 spot on the internet for opinions about ship models; good finding! Ron Secretary, Connecticut Marine Model Society www.ctshipmodels.org PS Should you have any other questions about this model, including more cannon details..shall we say, "just fire away!"😁 PPS I forgot to mention that you can also purchase cast resin (plastic), black cannon (in various sizes) from Syren Ship Model (link: https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/turned-brass-cannon.php); these will save a little money, especially if you do a entire refit.
  3. Please tell us the name of the kit!😊 Ron
  4. Nic, On behalf of the Connecticut Marine Model Society, our members wish you a speedy recovery. It was just a few years ago that you were our President! Your latest build is looking great. Best Regards to You, your Family, the "crew" at Bluejacket. Ron Secretary, CMMS www.ctshipmodels.org
  5. I already look as ripped as that guy. I don't need no stink'n T-shirt!...*🤪 *But I'll buy one anyway and proudly wear it to the Conference this October. Ron
  6. True. Syren's woods are restricted to only 15" lengths, which can be problematic. However, the restriction won't be a problem for 80% of builds. I've been spoiled in the (recent) past with Hobbymill's 24" lengths which I found ideal for my needs. My takeaway: Chuck's 15" boxwood is better than 24" unavailable boxwood. BTW: Syren will mill strips. Do check out Lumberyard as an alternative. Ron
  7. Unfortunately, Crown Timberyard has become an unreliable source for high-quality milled hardwoods. I recommend going to Syren Ship Models for boxwood; there are other sources but this one has inventory, reasonable prices, decent quality and is owned and operated by someone who is running a real business and not just a weekend gig hobby. Ron
  8. A warm welcome Ab, Thank you for your posts. Your work and your son's is excellent. What is his name? You will experience a very sincere and friendly group here. Like many other members, I look forward to seeing and reading your future contributions. Ron
  9. Rob, Thanks for your compliment, pleased to help. Convincing looking sails in proper scale, are not easy to replicate accurately. Same goes for water! The publication to which I'm referring is not a newsletter but is the "Nautical Research Guild's Journal," which is printed quarterly for members (and now posted online — go to: www.thenrg.org). The NRG is the owner of this forum and I recommend looking into an NRG membership which will give you access to the quarterly. Sail on. Ron
  10. Rob, If you receive the NRG's Journal, I have written a detailed step-by-step tutorial on how to create "set" (billowing) sails with silkspan, including techniques and suggestions for painting. This is Part 2 to my article on HMS Swan diorama and will appear in this Winter's issue (I believe the first week of December for fulfillment). David Antscherl's tutorial on making silkspan sails is an excellent reference. Your paper sails look very good. I would only add that silkspan material has a subtle texture that more accurately resembles canvas fabric, since in effect, it is a "fabric." Silkspan is pure white and needs to be painted (and "weathered" should that be appropriate). Here are two pics of my HMS Swan sails showing the results of my silkspan techniques. I hope this info is helpful. Ron
  11. Perhaps you can fix this issue with a check on your mailbox, it could be full... Ron
  12. Your MikeyCasa is looking excellent! Nice work. I like the colors you've chosen. I owe you a photo of my stained decking (now in place on two of the three deck pieces); this will clearly show the maple color I used. I'll post this over the next couple days... The Minwax stains are oil-based (not water), so paint thinner is required for clean-up or thinning. I use Minwax right out of the can. If I want a little more darkness to the hue I wait for first coat to dry then go for a second coat. Ron
  13. Craig, I'm satisfied with the Minwax stains (Home Depot/Lowes) - nothing fancy or expensive; they are consistent but you do need to toss 'em out after about 18-24 months. I also use a wood conditioner (also by Minwax) that helps even out the wood grain before staining. It's an extra step by I think it helps to prevent inconsistencies. The solvent stains dry pretty rapidly so the conditioner only adds a few minutes to the process. I'll take a pic over the next couple days ( I've only put the wood skin down on one deck piece thus far) and post it; you can judge the look and results for yourself. I used a med fine brush and had some Q-tips handy when I did my staining. Don't let the stain stay on long, wipe it off quickly with the cotton tip. Ron
  14. O.C., Thanks! Assuming the rehab/restoration has changed much of the original deck materials over the last 70 years, to me all the decks appear to be teak in various states of weather wear. The bridge shows teak- some pretty worn and another view shows highly polished wood. I'm thinking my choice of stains will be pretty darn close to what I see in the memorial pics. Since there is so much visible wood decking on this ship model, the color decisions are very important I think. Ron

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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