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timo4352

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Everything posted by timo4352

  1. So - I lied. I couldn't keep my hands off it so added all the struts in. That's good 'cause then I'll be ready to start fairing the next time.
  2. A marathon of ship building at my place today - Whew! I got that rabbet cut and installed all the bulkheads. Next the instructions call for bracing struts to be installed in between the bulkheads - to stiffen things up. I think I'll chill a bit before I start that part. I've got to think about some type of planking vise - purchased or home made. I like the home made idea - any ideas to share on one of those? Couple more pics for you all.
  3. No, I cut the rabbet after the stem, keel, and sternpost were glued on. That way when you cut the rabbet you can fit a piece of planking stock in the rabbet to see that it fits flush with the outside face of the stem, keel and sternpost as you work on the rabbet. If you were to cut the rabbet before these pieces were glued on you would have no way of gauging how deep to cut. Do the experts think that makes sense? Tim
  4. I'm just cutting the rabbet on mine now. I re-read that section of my instructions many times before I started cutting. I just posted some pics of the rabbet - the way I understand it from my instruction sheet, on my Pinky build log. Maybe seeing some pics might help... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5954-glad-tidings-pinky-schooner-by-timo4352-model-shipways-scale-124/#entry171946 What you want is to have the planking lie flush with the edge of the keel - so the plank sits down into the rabbet. Does that make sense? I hope I've been of some help to you. Tim
  5. Wow! the second rabbet went much faster than the first. I think I'm ready to attach some bulkheads. But, still, I keep trying to tell myself - don't rush... Some pics - if you see any problem areas - please let me know.
  6. Well, last evening I got the keels (halves) glued up and today I'm working on the rabbets. I think I've got the one half pretty much done, now onto the second. It's tedious work - I don't want to screw up. I'd like to get through this thing without having to get any replacement parts from ME. I'm using a combination of cutting, chiseling, and scraping to get the job done. So far - so good. Knock on wood is not a problem here - --- I know --- pix or it didn't happen --- I'll get some up soon... Tim
  7. She's done! I decided to go with sails. This first model was supposed to be a learning experience, and I needed to learn how to do sails too! My first attempt I ruined the sail fabric. This second set I used watered down Elmer's glue to seal the sail fabric. No stitching - just drew in pencil lines. I even went to buy some different fabric, but in the end I used these sails. I'm happy with the outcome. The next model I think I'll sew the sails on. Now my lovely wife has to get a spot in the curio cabinet cleared out. Some pics-
  8. Bob, I think you have got the centerboard hook the way it should be in your terrific drawing. I messed around with mine and changed it, but I wish I would have put it in the position that your drawing shows. It makes more sense from a 'leverage to lift the board viewpoint'. Just make sure if the board is down - that the hook is down too!
  9. Thanks for the replies, guys. Yes, I think I've still got a spot to display it in the curio cabinet. It's gonna take up more space than she thinks, I'm afraid, so I might have to figure out an alternate plan. I'm gonna need space for the Pinky too - and then the ....... Tim
  10. Shoot.... another "oops" just occurred to me... My model is displayed with the centerboard down, meaning the lift bar for the board should also be down - not up like shows in this photo. Something else I should have figured out on my own instead of blindly following the instructions. It bothers me enough that I'll probably try to remove it and redo it the way I think it should be. What have you other builders done on yours?
  11. Well , here I am -- at the verge of trying to decide if I should put sails on it or not... everything else is pretty much done... I'm thinking it might be fun to do a little poll -- what do you all think -- sails or not? I'm not promising anything either way, but I'm interested in your feedback.
  12. I have made a little progress on my model. Adding some details like cleats and stuff. Not done yet but getting closer. I am very much so enjoying the process.
  13. Well, I got all the bulkheads beveled today. There are a total of 38 half bulkheads in this kit. Took me about 4 hours between yesterday and today to get this far. Picking the bevels off the plans and marking the bulkheads seemed pretty foolproof. I found shaving the bevels with a chisel to be the best way to get the job done. I left the line a little wide so I would lessen my chance of cutting one (or more) bulkheads too small. I guess I'll see soon enough if they came out right. No pics today - not much to show but a pile of parts. Tim
  14. Welcome to the beginning of my Pinky Schooner build log. I am just starting to cut out some parts and clean up the laser char on them. I have added a couple pics of the kit - seems like a good way to start things out. I'll probably be a little slow getting things going here as I'm still working on the MBLS. What I'm doing here now is just pretty much keeping me busy while the stain an varnish dries on the spars for the smack. I will say so far the laser cut parts are pretty nice - easy to pop out from the cards. the wood looks to be of good quality, I don't see anything warped or anything bad like that yet. ME has a March madness sale now and this kit is only $70. I think that's a pretty darn fair price for what I've got in this kit here. The plans are quite impressive to me. Much more detailed - more like you are building a real ship - than the other plans that I'm building the smack from now. This is gonna be a fun boat to build! Well?... Let's get on with it!
  15. Oh, I did use a smaller drill for that. But, I wish I would have measured the cotter pins with my calipers first, before I drilled the other 1/16" holes too - they are a bit oversize - but I think I can make the difference up with some thicker glue - I'll epoxy them if I have to. I'm glad to be learning some of these things on this cheaper model first before I start on the Pinky. Tim PS - speaking of the Pinky - Model Expo has it on a special sale for 70 bucks now. I've got a sale code for it in my email. Anybody want to build one with me?
  16. Thank you, I'm really enjoying the build. I working on the spars now and wanted to share something I've learned. Those that have already built this boat have been there before, but there is something a first timer like me should look out for -- The plans call for drilling 1/16" holes through the boom, and at the aft end you can see that is nearly impossible as you would have but a hair's width of wood left on either side of the hole. I've attached a couple pics to show what I mean. This build is teaching me that there is lots of patience and some critical thinking is involved before you just do something - like follow the directions in this instance - You really have to think ahead. I think Midwest ought to change the plans to reflect this especially as this is marketed as a beginner kit. I'm pretty sure that won't happen just because I think it should, but other newbies like me should look out for it. On another note - this boat carried a lot of sail! Must have been a pretty powerful vessel. Good thing there is a couple reefs on that sail. Tim
  17. That looks nice and symmetrical. Did you gain the extra plank length you needed at the transom?
  18. Surgical tape sounds like a great idea. I'm going to try a few samples of paper products and the tape to see what I get. Any other ideas?
  19. As I'm contemplating starting the Pinky Schooner, and looking at photos of finished models, I have this thought about covering the cabin roofs in canvas and paint just like would have been done on a real boat to waterproof the cabin roof. The builds I've seen just have a planked up roof that I don't see how could be waterproof. So, I'd like mine to appear as though they are even though they don't really need to be. I did some searching around and can't seem to find any reference to canvassing a model's cabin roof. Has anybody done it? What kind of fabric did you use? I'll have to look in the fabric store for something that resembles canvas in the model scale - maybe a muslin? Any thoughts? Pics? Tim
  20. Thank you very much. Not going full scale with this - but when I'm done with it I'm ready to start on the Pinky Schooner! The model that is...
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