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hexnut

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    Hartford, CT USA

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  1. They had rubber pads on the tracks... Graf Z looks amazing!
  2. I fully endorse the Iwata/ Paasche combo, I bought mine for an illustration job in 1987, and they are still going strong...
  3. What a magnificent beast! Love the details! I remember making a little 1/72 plastic one years back in Hungarian air show display livery...
  4. I tape a cut length of plastic straw to the nozzle to decant into the airbrush...
  5. Tamiya also makes a pearl clear (TS-65) that is pretty nice--helps even out coverage... https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-85065-TS-65-Pearl-Clear/dp/B0006SG21C
  6. Great work! I've also had good luck with Vallejo paints, both w/ brush and airbrush. They go on thin enough to keep detail and permit layered glazes, but also cover well enough so that too many coats aren't needed... https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/war-games-en/french-infantry-napoleonic-wars-en/
  7. Epoxy for structural patches, but good ol' Bondo automotive filler works great for cosmetic fill/surface coating, with Nitrostan/Red Lead as a final skim coat. Additionally, cabinet scrapers and box cutter blades work well over PLA for knocking down the FDM print lines...
  8. Brilliant work, as always! Reminding me a bit of some of Charles Sheeler's great artwork... 🙂
  9. Completely concur w/ the advice to print the barrel vertically, redesign the assy. to be 3-4 parts w/ interior lap joints (YMMV, but .3mm clearance should yield a press fit after a quick clean-up), size the i.D. so you can press fit the parts over a dowel and chuck it into a rotary tool--spin on slow speed while gently scraping w/ a blade to knock down the steps. (I use a small Olfa blade in a pinvise) --don't worry about getting too undersized--a coat of filler, primer and paint will make up the difference. If the printer has a GUI like Ultimaker Cura, it's pretty straight-forward to change the settings to slower speed/max rez. I would also turn off the auto supports and build them into the model only under the trunnion section; use about a 5mm raft under the barrel sections so everything sticks to the platform. I would also do the logo as a couple-layer flat (make a few copies) sand it to thickness and mount it to the barrel w/ epoxy...
  10. You could also try a dark grey colored pencil--I like Prismacolor. The "lead" is soft, but an electric pencil sharpener will help keep a fine tip, and putting them in the refrigerator helps to keep the lines crisp (seriously).
  11. This was so much fun to watch, and the results are terrific. Thanks for sharing!
  12. Looks great! It looks like you have the figures well sorted, but a good potential source for 19th century crew in 1/48 could be Pegasus hobbies' "California Gold Miners": http://pegasushobbies.net/catalog/p113/%237007-1/48-Calif.-Gold-Miners-/-Gold-Rush/product_info.html
  13. As far as the planes go, Revell actually has the correct planes--SOC-3 Seagulls. (I don't think it got the Kingfishers until 1941, I believe they were off of the ship at the time of the attack) The floats are actually attached to the catapults. Those need to be cut off and attached to the aircraft if you use the GMM set, which is the right scale--I recommend it very highly. If you want to make Kingfishers, the 1956-vintage molds are blobby enough that you can just cut off the struts for the top wings and re-carve the canopy slightly. The railings definitely need to be cut off, it will improve the model considerably. I started one a long time ago, it's been sitting unfinished on my "shelf of shame" for over a decade. Maybe if you start kicking butt on yours, it would give me the impetus to drag mine back out and do something with it...
  14. Very cool project! Are you printing with a Taz? The parts look very nice. What extruder nozzle dia. and step are you running?
  15. Question for jablackwell: is the Theremin as fun to play as it looks?

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