hexnut
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut -Small- Midwest -1:24(1st wooden ship build)
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut -Small- Midwest -1:24(1st wooden ship build)
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Finished - Ala-Kart by CDW - AMT 1:25 Scale Plastic
hexnut replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I tape a cut length of plastic straw to the nozzle to decant into the airbrush... -
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Finished - Ala-Kart by CDW - AMT 1:25 Scale Plastic
hexnut replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Tamiya also makes a pearl clear (TS-65) that is pretty nice--helps even out coverage... https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-85065-TS-65-Pearl-Clear/dp/B0006SG21C -
Great work! I've also had good luck with Vallejo paints, both w/ brush and airbrush. They go on thin enough to keep detail and permit layered glazes, but also cover well enough so that too many coats aren't needed... https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/war-games-en/french-infantry-napoleonic-wars-en/
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Epoxy for structural patches, but good ol' Bondo automotive filler works great for cosmetic fill/surface coating, with Nitrostan/Red Lead as a final skim coat. Additionally, cabinet scrapers and box cutter blades work well over PLA for knocking down the FDM print lines...
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Brilliant work, as always! Reminding me a bit of some of Charles Sheeler's great artwork... 🙂
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9 Pound Naval Cannon (1786) by AON - 1:12 scale
hexnut replied to AON's topic in Build Logs for SCRATCH SHIP MODEL PROJECTS
Completely concur w/ the advice to print the barrel vertically, redesign the assy. to be 3-4 parts w/ interior lap joints (YMMV, but .3mm clearance should yield a press fit after a quick clean-up), size the i.D. so you can press fit the parts over a dowel and chuck it into a rotary tool--spin on slow speed while gently scraping w/ a blade to knock down the steps. (I use a small Olfa blade in a pinvise) --don't worry about getting too undersized--a coat of filler, primer and paint will make up the difference. If the printer has a GUI like Ultimaker Cura, it's pretty straight-forward to change the settings to slower speed/max rez. I would also turn off the auto supports and build them into the model only under the trunnion section; use about a 5mm raft under the barrel sections so everything sticks to the platform. I would also do the logo as a couple-layer flat (make a few copies) sand it to thickness and mount it to the barrel w/ epoxy... -
You could also try a dark grey colored pencil--I like Prismacolor. The "lead" is soft, but an electric pencil sharpener will help keep a fine tip, and putting them in the refrigerator helps to keep the lines crisp (seriously).
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This was so much fun to watch, and the results are terrific. Thanks for sharing!
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Looks great! It looks like you have the figures well sorted, but a good potential source for 19th century crew in 1/48 could be Pegasus hobbies' "California Gold Miners": http://pegasushobbies.net/catalog/p113/%237007-1/48-Calif.-Gold-Miners-/-Gold-Rush/product_info.html
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As far as the planes go, Revell actually has the correct planes--SOC-3 Seagulls. (I don't think it got the Kingfishers until 1941, I believe they were off of the ship at the time of the attack) The floats are actually attached to the catapults. Those need to be cut off and attached to the aircraft if you use the GMM set, which is the right scale--I recommend it very highly. If you want to make Kingfishers, the 1956-vintage molds are blobby enough that you can just cut off the struts for the top wings and re-carve the canopy slightly. The railings definitely need to be cut off, it will improve the model considerably. I started one a long time ago, it's been sitting unfinished on my "shelf of shame" for over a decade. Maybe if you start kicking butt on yours, it would give me the impetus to drag mine back out and do something with it...
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Very cool project! Are you printing with a Taz? The parts look very nice. What extruder nozzle dia. and step are you running?
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Question for jablackwell: is the Theremin as fun to play as it looks?
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Or earlier (60's-70's) going by the diamond-shaped tom mount and hardware... Orchestral percussion is tough. Tympani is rewarding, but for everything else, depending on the piece, the proficiency-to-fun ratio is sometimes tough...(how much you have to know vs. how much you get to play) The reggae band however--great technical stuff, but you get to use it all-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkKwksK8VrE
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Drummer percussionist most of my life--started in drum corps @ 8 yrs old, played in school marching, concert bands, jazz bands, various rock, blues and world music bands. Don't play out a whole lot anymore, just occasional jams and drum circles... I have a bunch of various percussion toys, keyboard, old roland octapad/Alesis Dm5 and some triggers, the attached pic shows my set of '60's Camcos set up for recording a few years back, talking drum in the background...
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CA adhesive- spontaneous combustion?
hexnut replied to Srodbro's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
From Wikipedia: Reaction with cotton, wool, and other fibrous materials Applying cyanoacrylate to some natural materials such as cotton (jeans), leather or wool (cotton swabs, cotton balls, and certain yarns or fabrics) results in a powerful, rapid exothermic reaction. This reaction also occurs with fiberglass and carbon fiber. The heat released may cause serious burns,[26] ignite the cotton product, or release irritating white smoke. Material Safety Data Sheets for cyanoacrylate instruct users not to wear cotton (jeans) or wool clothing, especially cotton gloves, when applying or handling cyanoacrylates.[27] I also use it w/ baking soda quite a bit and I have to be really careful--I've burnt my hands before...
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