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    Hartford, CT USA

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  1. I always love your hyper-detail updates. I am making the same face as all those deadeyes! 😮
  2. Hello Hexnut,

    Thank for following along, hopefully I can offer some tips to you and others following. Please keep in mind I am still learning the basics.


    Your kindness is well appreciated,

    Bill t.

  3. Joseph Conrad and the Otago, Allen Villiers and the Joseph Conrad?
  4. Very nice work. vaddoc! Are you using Rhino? First of all, I understand the pushback from the "ship's curves and paper" fans, but at the same time, I think part of the frustration some experience is that CAD offers a LOT more precision, and old boats simply were not that precise. Go down to the drydock on a nice, salt-spray-blowing November day in Bristol, crawl around a large hull taking measurements, dodging teams of workers doing sheathing and caulk, go back to the office and calculate the offsets by candlelight--Or during the initial build, lay out the stations with splines, ducks and
  5. I do love my set of mid-60's Camco's (The predecessor to DW) --The Slingerland kit looks wonderful--I hope you have another set for gigs... 🙂
  6. I fully endorse the Iwata/ Paasche combo, I bought mine for an illustration job in 1987, and they are still going strong...
  7. What a magnificent beast! Love the details! I remember making a little 1/72 plastic one years back in Hungarian air show display livery...
  8. I tape a cut length of plastic straw to the nozzle to decant into the airbrush...
  9. Tamiya also makes a pearl clear (TS-65) that is pretty nice--helps even out coverage... https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-85065-TS-65-Pearl-Clear/dp/B0006SG21C
  10. Great work! I've also had good luck with Vallejo paints, both w/ brush and airbrush. They go on thin enough to keep detail and permit layered glazes, but also cover well enough so that too many coats aren't needed... https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/sets/war-games-en/french-infantry-napoleonic-wars-en/
  11. Epoxy for structural patches, but good ol' Bondo automotive filler works great for cosmetic fill/surface coating, with Nitrostan/Red Lead as a final skim coat. Additionally, cabinet scrapers and box cutter blades work well over PLA for knocking down the FDM print lines...
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