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hexnut

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  1.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  2.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  3.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  4.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  5.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  6.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  7.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  8.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  9.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  10.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: USS Fletcher by RGL - Tamiya - 1/350
  11.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: 9 Pound Naval Cannon (1786) by AON - 1:12 scale
  12.    jud reacted to a post in a topic: 9 Pound Naval Cannon (1786) by AON - 1:12 scale
  13.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: 9 Pound Naval Cannon (1786) by AON - 1:12 scale
  14. hexnut
    Completely concur w/ the advice to print the barrel vertically, redesign the assy. to be 3-4 parts w/ interior lap joints (YMMV, but .3mm clearance should yield a press fit after a quick clean-up), size the i.D. so you can press fit the parts over a dowel and chuck it into a rotary tool--spin on slow speed while gently scraping w/ a blade to knock down the steps. (I use a small Olfa blade in a pinvise) --don't worry about getting too undersized--a coat of filler, primer and paint will make up the difference. If the printer has a GUI like Ultimaker Cura, it's pretty straight-forward to change the settings to slower speed/max rez. I would also turn off the auto supports and build them into the model only under the trunnion section; use about a 5mm raft under the barrel sections so everything sticks to the platform. I would also do the logo as a couple-layer flat (make a few copies) sand it to thickness and mount it to the barrel w/ epoxy...
  15.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Pre-made deck planking sheets
  16. hexnut
    You could also try a dark grey colored pencil--I like Prismacolor. The "lead" is soft, but an electric pencil sharpener will help keep a fine tip, and putting them in the refrigerator helps to keep the lines crisp (seriously).
  17.    Moab reacted to a post in a topic: Pilot Cutter by Michael Mott - 1:500 scale
  18.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: SS Michelangelo 1962 by shipmodel - FINISHED - 1/350 scale
  19.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: SS Michelangelo 1962 by shipmodel - FINISHED - 1/350 scale
  20.    cog reacted to a post in a topic: SS Michelangelo 1962 by shipmodel - FINISHED - 1/350 scale
  21. hexnut
    This was so much fun to watch, and the results are terrific. Thanks for sharing!
  22.    popeye the sailor reacted to a post in a topic: Pilot Cutter by Michael Mott - 1:500 scale
  23. hexnut
    Looks great! It looks like you have the figures well sorted, but a good potential source for 19th century crew in 1/48 could be Pegasus hobbies' "California Gold Miners": http://pegasushobbies.net/catalog/p113/%237007-1/48-Calif.-Gold-Miners-/-Gold-Rush/product_info.html
  24.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: U.S.S. Arizona
  25. hexnut
    As far as the planes go, Revell actually has the correct planes--SOC-3 Seagulls. (I don't think it got the Kingfishers until 1941, I believe they were off of the ship at the time of the attack) The floats are actually attached to the catapults. Those need to be cut off and attached to the aircraft if you use the GMM set, which is the right scale--I recommend it very highly. If you want to make Kingfishers, the 1956-vintage molds are blobby enough that you can just cut off the struts for the top wings and re-carve the canopy slightly. The railings definitely need to be cut off, it will improve the model considerably. I started one a long time ago, it's been sitting unfinished on my "shelf of shame" for over a decade. Maybe if you start kicking butt on yours, it would give me the impetus to drag mine back out and do something with it...
  26. hexnut
    Very cool project! Are you printing with a Taz? The parts look very nice. What extruder nozzle dia. and step are you running?
  27. hexnut
    Question for jablackwell: is the Theremin as fun to play as it looks?
  28. hexnut
    Or earlier (60's-70's) going by the diamond-shaped tom mount and hardware... Orchestral percussion is tough. Tympani is rewarding, but for everything else, depending on the piece, the proficiency-to-fun ratio is sometimes tough...(how much you have to know vs. how much you get to play) The reggae band however--great technical stuff, but you get to use it all-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkKwksK8VrE
  29. hexnut
    Drummer percussionist most of my life--started in drum corps @ 8 yrs old, played in school marching, concert bands, jazz bands, various rock, blues and world music bands. Don't play out a whole lot anymore, just occasional jams and drum circles... I have a bunch of various percussion toys, keyboard, old roland octapad/Alesis Dm5 and some triggers, the attached pic shows my set of '60's Camcos set up for recording a few years back, talking drum in the background...
  30. hexnut
    From Wikipedia: Reaction with cotton, wool, and other fibrous materials Applying cyanoacrylate to some natural materials such as cotton (jeans), leather or wool (cotton swabs, cotton balls, and certain yarns or fabrics) results in a powerful, rapid exothermic reaction. This reaction also occurs with fiberglass and carbon fiber. The heat released may cause serious burns,[26] ignite the cotton product, or release irritating white smoke. Material Safety Data Sheets for cyanoacrylate instruct users not to wear cotton (jeans) or wool clothing, especially cotton gloves, when applying or handling cyanoacrylates.[27] I also use it w/ baking soda quite a bit and I have to be really careful--I've burnt my hands before...
  31. hexnut
    Looking awesome! You may be already using something like this, but for mirror finishes, I find these things: https://www.micromark.com/Soft-Touch-Sanding-and-Polishing-Pad-Set-Set-of-6?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Lakytmr2AIV27rACh0Jpg2qEAQYASABEgLXkfD_BwE to be close to magic...
  32. hexnut
  33. hexnut
    Don't know if you've already seen this, but nice image of the Hotchkiss gun: http://www.nmrn-portsmouth.org.uk/exhibits-and-collections/steam-pinnace
  34. hexnut
    Awesome work on Michelangelo-- golf is too frustrating for me, I stick to Highland Games...
  35. hexnut
    THE basic textbook for tech. drawing in MHO is: Engineering Drawing and Graphic Science by French & Vierk. https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AVierck French

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