Moonbug

Obviously mainstay rigging has (like most rigging) evolved over the centuries.  For the Santa Maria, I chose to use "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram ZuMondfeld as a reference for the time frame.  I also referenced some other models of the Santa Maria from other builders.

  



Step one was to create open blocks to remain consistent with the ratlines, etc.  I used a 12mm dowel, cut off the ends and drilled them out. 



 I rounded and sanded them using this handy little tool that my mother bought me as a housewarming gift.  It's actually a knife / tool sharpener, that comes with a variety of different sanding belts. When you take the knife adapter off, it makes for a great miniature belt sander.



The top of the stay that loops around the top of the main mast is a reinforced wrapped rope. This is also the method of securing the rope to the blocks. So I simulated the effect by taking small diameter rope and wrapping the large diameter rope and creating the knot. 



 My method for accomplishing this was to clip the top of the stay to a shelf, and the bottom of the stay to my desk. This kept consistent tension on the stay allowing me to wrap the smaller thread around the larger rope without it twisting too much.



The upper half of the mainstay is connected to the bow of the ship through the foredeck. It's always sketchy when it comes time to drill holes in the deck as mistakes are unforgiving. The rope runs through the deck, around the bow keel, then back up through the deck. The ends are attached to to blocks. The blocks are combined around the foremast then connected to the upper half of the mainstay with another set of blocks.



 The upper end of the mainstay is wrapped around the mainmast, through the crow's nest, and reconnected using a loop and a "mouse" - essentially a woven knot. Clearly wrapping and weaving the knot as illustrated was too detailed for a small scale, so I simulated the mouse knot with a basic wrap.



I followed up the mainstay with the fore stays and the aft stays. This are more simplified stays with basic single blocks. I added a small rod in the stay as a functional addition which seems to have appeared on some but not all ships of the time.

As a relatively small ship, the Santa Maria most likely had six pair of shrouds on the main masts that were then secured to the channels using deadeye blocks. 
 
 
Like many other details from that long ago - there is some question as to the type of deadeye blocks that are used on the Santa Maria or other ships of the time.  Once again, some subjective judgement is necessary in this area. While it appears to be clear (from a Flemish carrack 1480 model and others) that earlier deadeyes were triangular or 'pear shaped' it is not clear at which point deadeyes moved from being an open hole, to the three holes that later became the norm. Based on the premise that the Santa Maria was an older, existing ship that was purchased, and some input from Xavier Pastor's research, I decided to go with an open hole version.
 

 
So, step one was to drill out the triangular deadeyes and open them up. Always a delicate process, I held the deadeyes steady with suture clamps, then drilled them out with a dremel. Any drilling is always followed up with some soft sanding.
 

 
Step two is to rig the deadeyes. I used my handy soldering clamp to keep the distance between the deadeyes consistent. The process is a bit dodgy, since each time you tighten the ropes, the deadeyes have a tendency to squeeze together closer regardless of how tight the clamps are.  This is less likely in the newer, three holed deadeyes.
 

 
Once the deadeyes themselves are rigged, they are attached to the channels. First, holes are drilled in the channels, eyes inserted, then those eyes are attached to the wales of the hull. 
 

 
 The deadeyes are then attached to the eyes. Once again, it's important to wrap and tie them evenly so the lengths of the deadeyes and shrouds remain consistent. The shrouds themselves are wrapped around the main mast through the crow's nest and ganged together in pairs. After wrapping around the mast, an eye is seized in to them middle of the rope. The eyes are looped over the mast alternately so that both part and starboard side are evened out and the tension from the shrouds is consistent to both sides of the ship.
 
The shrouds are attached to the deadeyes by being looped around the block an seized at the top. Rattling down the ratlines is one of the most tedious tasks of the build. Although there are quite a bit fewer ratlines in the Santa Maria as my San Juan Nepomuceno, there are still about 450 individual knots in both shrouds.
 

 
Each knot is a clove hitch, which makes it a bit easier as they maintain tension when pulled. But it's always difficult for me to tie each knot with the same level of care to maintain the symmetry of the ratlines - as once again, the ratlines are one the most visible aspects of the model an any flaws are more noticeable than other aspects of the ship. While some folks use a paper with drawn lines to maintain distance, etc, I typically remeasure the distance of each knot after tying it. Then I put a spot of CA to keep them in place. 
 

 
For me - finishing the ratlines is an important step and, I believe, is a moment when the overall model really starts to take shape and look like a ship.

The Launch:
 
Based on a fair amount of research, it appears as though the Santa Maria had two smaller launches of slightly different variety.
 
 
 After a couple of failed attempts, I used a similar method that I used with the smaller launch to create the larger.  I took the diagrams from Pastor's reference, made scaled copies, then cut out along the lines to create bulkheads to plank.
 
 
 
The most difficult part of this small build was shaping the keel.  It's a very dramatic bend. It took several attempts at soaking a strip then bending it with heat to get the shape I needed. I overbent, cracked and broke a number of pieces going to fast. Patience was definitely and ultimately a virtue here. But, I finally got a reasonable facsimile to work with.
 
 
 
To shape the bulkheads properly, I just glued my paper templates to some thing plywood - knowing I would sand out the hulls later.
 

 
As it turns out - this method failed miserably. I wasn't able to effectively plank or sand this version, because there wasn't enough wood to work this. After much aggravation, I just scraped the plank on bulkhead idea.
 
 
 
Shifting gears - I switched to a more basic method, trying to simulate the real-world version of building smaller craft.  I mounted my bent keel, filed small grooves, then bent and shaped until I came up with something suitable to plank. While this ultimately worked - it was quite difficult soaking and bending these smaller pieces.
 
 
 
After quite a bit of planking, sanding and filling then planking again - I had a viable product to work with and shape.
 

 
 Filling in the launch with seats, rails, and a keel was relatively easy compared to the construction itself. Thank goodness for the weathering that I've been using because hopefully it'll cover up a fair amount of minor inaccuracies. 
 
I'll ultimately also add oars, some rope, and other small additions that represent the clutter that was often found in the small vessels. I suspect they were often used as storage bins much the same way we all seem to have a "junk drawer" somewhere around the house.

Although I'm just posting this - this was another deck fitting project I started quite a while ago and just finished up recently. 
Based on the items in the Captain's Cabin here, you can probably tell I'm a bit fascinated with the tiny details that I feel add a huge amount of fun to a build. I think this is true particularly for the casual viewer who may not recognize the accuracy and finesse as much as those who are familiar with builds and ships. At any rate - I wanted to create the cook stove that was commonly found on ships of the era.  
 
After failing miserably at silver soldering - a talent that I envy greatly and is held by several folks on here - I ended up cutting out the pieces and using "JB Weld" - which is essentially an epoxy weld for small metal pieces.  It took a fair amount of trial and error, particularly at holding the pieces together until they dried enough.
 
The grating is from a common screen door and the pot and pan are carved made from wood with metal bits attached. 
 

Before my Haitus, I was working on fitting the main and mizzen masts.  With the basics of the decks laid out, and the foremast and bowsprit in place, I decided it was time to loose fit the main and mizzen masts so I would have a better idea of exactly how much room I’m going to have on the decks, as well as get an idea of how I will need to alter the rigging from the original plans.
  Step one for the both masts of course was to size and taper them. My technique goes back to my makeshift lathe using my power drill, then sand it down to the desired diameter at the top.  The mizzen is obviously far less complicated than the main.   The next step is to decide on the base mount for the masts. The AL kit supplies circular, brass coated fittings that I think may be pewter. They not only look pretty cheap, but they’re not very well made.  I prefer square mast bases anyway, so I built my own and beveled them. These were created from an old hard wood pen case. I loved the color and grain.

 
  The base of the main mast is bolstered with vertical strips of wood to strengthen it, then it is wrapped with heavy gauge rope up the length of the mast. 
    Not long ago, I ordered 2mm x 2mm strips of walnut for a variety of needs including futtock riders. What I got (I think it was from Bluejacket) were these horribly ugly and DYED strips of wood that look like they were painted some sort of mahogany.  
So far, I only used them for inside the captain’s cabin to give it some color. I decided to use those strips for the base of the main mast – once again to add a little color. Particularly since I used a unique piece of wood for the base.  

At any rate, the strips are cut and mitre’d on the edges so they fit together adequately around the mast. Finally they are glued, then the ropes are added and tied as per Mondfeld’s “Historic Ship Models” in which the ends are tucked in to the back of the mast.  The top of the main mast in the AL documentation supports a couple (at least) of blocks. However, a more accurate representation is a double sheave block. That block is created by to walnut pieces sanded to fit snuggly against the mast. The sheaves themselves are narrow cuts from a spare 5mm dowel. The big challenge here was getting everything to fit snuggly.        

Hello everyone. 
 
    It's been about a year and a half since I managed to really accomplish much with the Santa Maria.  In that time I've been working and traveling, bought a new house and moved, and just generally been busting my hump.  However, I've recently gotten back into the groove a little bit, so I'll have some updates shortly.  In the meantime, here's a partial look at the new "hobby room" in the new place.   :-)
 
   Looking forward to catching up on everyone's builds. 
 
- Bug
 
 

Nice!  Great to see you back at it Sjors!  Well done!  
 
- Bug

Hey Joe,  thanks for the response.  I can't argue with logic - so that was my task this weekend.  I unfurled the sail, and took another look. Now, if I was going to go with unfurled, I'd also want to detach and re-sew the sail along with bonnets. I also considered whether or not I'd want to add one of the symbolic crosses on the sail as well.
 
    Turns out - I didn't really have to go to far to realize that I really liked the sails both ways.  So, I did what any normal, red blooded man would do - I asked the Admiral.  She liked the sail furled, and since I already have a couple around the house with sails down, she convinced me to go with the "just pulled into the bay" look.  :-)  
 
    The good news is - the entire exercise gave me the opportunity to re-furl the sail and little differently.  This time, I wrapped the sail a bit differently, and the sheets and clews are a little further out on the yard. I am much happier with this look, and I think it's ultimately more accurate.
 

Hey Joe,  thanks for the response.  I can't argue with logic - so that was my task this weekend.  I unfurled the sail, and took another look. Now, if I was going to go with unfurled, I'd also want to detach and re-sew the sail along with bonnets. I also considered whether or not I'd want to add one of the symbolic crosses on the sail as well.
 
    Turns out - I didn't really have to go to far to realize that I really liked the sails both ways.  So, I did what any normal, red blooded man would do - I asked the Admiral.  She liked the sail furled, and since I already have a couple around the house with sails down, she convinced me to go with the "just pulled into the bay" look.  :-)  
 
    The good news is - the entire exercise gave me the opportunity to re-furl the sail and little differently.  This time, I wrapped the sail a bit differently, and the sheets and clews are a little further out on the yard. I am much happier with this look, and I think it's ultimately more accurate.
 

Been working on finishing the rigging with deck accouterments, etc.  As I mentioned in the past, I'm such a huge fan of the kinda of 'underway' look of working rigging and "messy coils" that I decided that was going to be my style for this build.  Sure - doesn't say much toward the tidiness and efficiency of the crew.  But - I'm going to go with the idea that since Captain Christopher had such disdain for the big slow Santa Maria, that all the slackers ended up on that deck.  :-)  
 
Anyway, here's a sneak peak at my look:
 

Good morning,
 
      Pushing through the running rigging - on to the main mast. A bit more complicated parrel on this guy of course.  Like the others, it's bound in the front of the mast with two looped ropes running through one another and secured. This apparently gave the rig the opportunity to loosen and tighten - which I suspect is needed to get over the rope wraps around the main mast itself. 
 
     
 
Hoisted with two lines attached to the yard, then up through the crow's nest and through the two sheaves.  The line that secures the parrel is dropped down and secured at the base of the mast with a coil of rope.  This initial coil of rope is a bit haphazard - but gave me an inspiration for what will be most of the rope coils of the ship.  As it's an aged "working" ship, I'm going to go with "messy coils" instead of the clean and uniform look of the coils on the San Juan. Hopefully this will give it an underway look and not appear disorganized.
 
     
 
As with the other sails and yards, I fully rigged the main sail before furling it.  I followed closely the Pastor diagrams, and this was super fun.  It did however - for the first time - make me second guess my choice of furling the sails for a few moments. So I included a few photos of the sail down before it was finally furled.
 
        
 
You'll notice in the one shot a bottle of white "Scenic" glue.  I used this a lot when I did train sets, etc. It's a diluted white glue that - as it turns out - works wonderfully for coiled ropes, and other types of rigging.  It's not thick, and provides what is ultimately a very delicate adhesion. However, it dries very clear and does not appear to discolor the rigging after it dries.
 
    
 
Finally, somewhat regretfully, I furled the sails.  You'll also notice in the last photo that I have the rear deck raised. I'm going to figure out a small rigging system to be able to raise and lower that as needed.  Obviously not something that was on the original vessel.  *laff*
 
        

Good morning,
 
    Wrapped up the rigging on the topsail.  Pretty basic stuff here.  I drilled a hole in the topsail mast, then took a 2mm dowel, filed out grooves, and cut off a piece as a pulley / sheave.  My parrel is much more basic than the other masts of course. Then the yard is hoisted through the sheave.
 
         
 
 The rest is your basic yard / sail rigging.
 
  

More Rigging - the Foremast.
 
Rigging the masts (somewhat out of order) based on Pastor's book required a bit more preplanning.  I did quite a bit when I laid out where the rails and cleats would go, but there was still some interesting challenges when it came to rigging in and around each of the masts.  It also got a little sketchy in terms of furling the sails.  So my methodology was to rig them down, then actually use the rigging to raise them, then furl them.  Challenging, but fun.
 

 
I created the parrels for the foremast, then attached and raised it using the pulley I built at the top of the foremast. Which I then tied off on the railing of the foredeck.  I'm going to go back and put a coil of rope every place a rig is tied off, but I went ahead and did this one now so I could get an idea of what the coils would look like.
 
          
  I attached the bridles and bowlines to a ring. There is some indication that these were attached to blocks instead of rings in some cases. In fact, there is a bit of conflicting information - about a 50/50 split on either rings or blocks.  Probably a captain's choice.  But this captain thinks that the rings look good - and I like the differentiation.  
 

 
The other thing I liked is the sheets and tacks attached to the clew with little toggles.  Loved the way this ended up and looked.  It also provided me with some great flexibility when it came to actually rigging the sails.
 
   
 
Then here are some generic shots of the rigging, first with the sail down - then after it had been furled.
 
       

And as an added bonus, a shot of the shipyard.  
 
Notice to the right, is my 11 year old daughter's little car kit.  She enjoys hanging out with Dad working as well.  I've started her addiction early...  
 
 

Good evening ladies & gents.  Here are a few photos of updates to the rigging on the bowsprit. Nothing super mysterious here, just following the illustrations from Pastor's book.
 

 

 

 

Thanks Marktime!   I'm working on the fore now, and definitely trying my best to duplicate the tackle, etc for hoisting.  I've mounted the sails as though they were full, then I'm trying to use the tackle to furl them.  A bit tricky, and definitely not smooth - but gives me a little check to see if I'm on the right track when they're furled. 
 
Next up is the main (realizing I'm rigging out of the typical order) - but here are a couple other shots of the knighthead as a teaser.  
 

Here is a look at some of the mizzen rigging that I've done recently.  
 

 
Well, first - here are the sails.  I soaked them in tea to color and age them.  I wasn't sure at the time if I was going to have them down or furled. Had I gone with the former, I'd have likely evened out the color a bit more.  At any rate, I've since decided this will be my first build with fully furled sails.  It should also be noted that I've removed the weird, ugly green "rope" that AL loves to use on their sails - and replaced it with more natural looking ropes. Even furled, they should be a bit more accurate.  
 

 
I created the parrels on my own. I'll likely rough them up a bit later during the final detail phase.  I've rigged the parrels using Pastor's method - looping the rigging then securing it with two blocks and securing it to the ship via railing. 
 

 
Similarly, after going back and forth on several different methods of securing the standing rigging for the mizzen and foremast, I settled on two blocks.  This is outlined in several places, but it is certainly not definitive. It does however fit the time period, so I'm comfortable with it.
 

 
Then finally, the rigging on the ends of the mizzen.  The ropes tied off to the deck will ultimately be masked a bit with coils of rope.

I decided that the stern lantern on the Santa Maria was an opportunity for me to get a little more elaborate than was likely actually on the ship.  I started by having Chuck send me one of his Stern Lantern Kits so I wouldn't have to manufacture the little bits on my own.  Then I stained and prepped the pieces.
 

 
I put the basic pieces together, then started the modification process. I based my idea on a lantern I saw from one of the Russian model builders. I used thin wire and wrapped to pieces together to create a "roped" look, then filed down and flattened one side.  I glued these pieces to the corners of the lantern.
 

 
I painted and rubbed the lantern black, and used parts of brass nails to create the door handle and hinges.
 

 
Then I chopped off the ends of straight pins and mounted them on the top of the lamp to create "pillars" that extend above the lamp.
 

 
Finally, I used a 3mm wide brass strip and filed it down to create the cross on the top.
 

I'm headed on my way toward the running rigging, which means I really need to finish off most (if not all) of the deck fittings and other little details.  With that in mind, I took some time over the last week to finish off the launches as well and create some little pieces to add along the deck - particularly barrels and buckets.
 

 
Step one to finishing off the launches was to carve out and sand some oars.  I wanted at least a handful for each launch, so i created a bit of an assembly line with my handy faux mini belt sander and dremel.  These are pretty raw cuts of the oars, then I did a lot of little detail sanding.
 

 
Similar to the oars, I made a little bucket / barrel assembly line. The buckets are 5mm diameter downs trimmed to size then sanded down.  I used an X-acto knife to carve out lines to create simulated planks, etc, then very carefully hollowed out the buckets.
 

 
I left the extra trim on the sides then drilled out holes to thread in the rope handles.  The barrels were pretty straightforward as far as trimming and sanding.  They are wrapped with black electrical tape. A method I tried with my San Juan, the electricians tape is a great thickness and pretty easy to work with.  The "cork" is a hole drilled then filled with a toothpick and clipped off.   
 

 
The larger launch includes a mast and sail wrapped for storage.
 

So - ya learn something new every day.  I didn't realize this, but according to a few different pieces of documentation, apparently Naos of the time had a mainmast ladder.  I figured sailors just ran up and down the ratlines like any other ship.  Nonetheless, since it seems to be well documented (even by Pastor), I decided to add the mainmast ladder.
 
 

 
Pretty basic setup here - trimmed all the steps out of 2mm strips, then stained and tied them off using a version of a clove hitch. I attached the top and bottom of the ladder using pretty standard tie-offs.

Finishing off the Anchors.  
 
I've been waiting until I had more of the fittings on deck before I stowed the anchors.  It's my understanding that despite what we see very often -  ships actually rarely had both anchors stowed and attached to the side of the bow. So, I've attached one, and stowed the other beneath the foredeck.
 

Obviously mainstay rigging has (like most rigging) evolved over the centuries.  For the Santa Maria, I chose to use "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram ZuMondfeld as a reference for the time frame.  I also referenced some other models of the Santa Maria from other builders.

  



Step one was to create open blocks to remain consistent with the ratlines, etc.  I used a 12mm dowel, cut off the ends and drilled them out. 



 I rounded and sanded them using this handy little tool that my mother bought me as a housewarming gift.  It's actually a knife / tool sharpener, that comes with a variety of different sanding belts. When you take the knife adapter off, it makes for a great miniature belt sander.



The top of the stay that loops around the top of the main mast is a reinforced wrapped rope. This is also the method of securing the rope to the blocks. So I simulated the effect by taking small diameter rope and wrapping the large diameter rope and creating the knot. 



 My method for accomplishing this was to clip the top of the stay to a shelf, and the bottom of the stay to my desk. This kept consistent tension on the stay allowing me to wrap the smaller thread around the larger rope without it twisting too much.



The upper half of the mainstay is connected to the bow of the ship through the foredeck. It's always sketchy when it comes time to drill holes in the deck as mistakes are unforgiving. The rope runs through the deck, around the bow keel, then back up through the deck. The ends are attached to to blocks. The blocks are combined around the foremast then connected to the upper half of the mainstay with another set of blocks.



 The upper end of the mainstay is wrapped around the mainmast, through the crow's nest, and reconnected using a loop and a "mouse" - essentially a woven knot. Clearly wrapping and weaving the knot as illustrated was too detailed for a small scale, so I simulated the mouse knot with a basic wrap.



I followed up the mainstay with the fore stays and the aft stays. This are more simplified stays with basic single blocks. I added a small rod in the stay as a functional addition which seems to have appeared on some but not all ships of the time.

As a relatively small ship, the Santa Maria most likely had six pair of shrouds on the main masts that were then secured to the channels using deadeye blocks. 
 
 
Like many other details from that long ago - there is some question as to the type of deadeye blocks that are used on the Santa Maria or other ships of the time.  Once again, some subjective judgement is necessary in this area. While it appears to be clear (from a Flemish carrack 1480 model and others) that earlier deadeyes were triangular or 'pear shaped' it is not clear at which point deadeyes moved from being an open hole, to the three holes that later became the norm. Based on the premise that the Santa Maria was an older, existing ship that was purchased, and some input from Xavier Pastor's research, I decided to go with an open hole version.
 

 
So, step one was to drill out the triangular deadeyes and open them up. Always a delicate process, I held the deadeyes steady with suture clamps, then drilled them out with a dremel. Any drilling is always followed up with some soft sanding.
 

 
Step two is to rig the deadeyes. I used my handy soldering clamp to keep the distance between the deadeyes consistent. The process is a bit dodgy, since each time you tighten the ropes, the deadeyes have a tendency to squeeze together closer regardless of how tight the clamps are.  This is less likely in the newer, three holed deadeyes.
 

 
Once the deadeyes themselves are rigged, they are attached to the channels. First, holes are drilled in the channels, eyes inserted, then those eyes are attached to the wales of the hull. 
 

 
 The deadeyes are then attached to the eyes. Once again, it's important to wrap and tie them evenly so the lengths of the deadeyes and shrouds remain consistent. The shrouds themselves are wrapped around the main mast through the crow's nest and ganged together in pairs. After wrapping around the mast, an eye is seized in to them middle of the rope. The eyes are looped over the mast alternately so that both part and starboard side are evened out and the tension from the shrouds is consistent to both sides of the ship.
 
The shrouds are attached to the deadeyes by being looped around the block an seized at the top. Rattling down the ratlines is one of the most tedious tasks of the build. Although there are quite a bit fewer ratlines in the Santa Maria as my San Juan Nepomuceno, there are still about 450 individual knots in both shrouds.
 

 
Each knot is a clove hitch, which makes it a bit easier as they maintain tension when pulled. But it's always difficult for me to tie each knot with the same level of care to maintain the symmetry of the ratlines - as once again, the ratlines are one the most visible aspects of the model an any flaws are more noticeable than other aspects of the ship. While some folks use a paper with drawn lines to maintain distance, etc, I typically remeasure the distance of each knot after tying it. Then I put a spot of CA to keep them in place. 
 

 
For me - finishing the ratlines is an important step and, I believe, is a moment when the overall model really starts to take shape and look like a ship.

The Launch:
 
Based on a fair amount of research, it appears as though the Santa Maria had two smaller launches of slightly different variety.
 
 
 After a couple of failed attempts, I used a similar method that I used with the smaller launch to create the larger.  I took the diagrams from Pastor's reference, made scaled copies, then cut out along the lines to create bulkheads to plank.
 
 
 
The most difficult part of this small build was shaping the keel.  It's a very dramatic bend. It took several attempts at soaking a strip then bending it with heat to get the shape I needed. I overbent, cracked and broke a number of pieces going to fast. Patience was definitely and ultimately a virtue here. But, I finally got a reasonable facsimile to work with.
 
 
 
To shape the bulkheads properly, I just glued my paper templates to some thing plywood - knowing I would sand out the hulls later.
 

 
As it turns out - this method failed miserably. I wasn't able to effectively plank or sand this version, because there wasn't enough wood to work this. After much aggravation, I just scraped the plank on bulkhead idea.
 
 
 
Shifting gears - I switched to a more basic method, trying to simulate the real-world version of building smaller craft.  I mounted my bent keel, filed small grooves, then bent and shaped until I came up with something suitable to plank. While this ultimately worked - it was quite difficult soaking and bending these smaller pieces.
 
 
 
After quite a bit of planking, sanding and filling then planking again - I had a viable product to work with and shape.
 

 
 Filling in the launch with seats, rails, and a keel was relatively easy compared to the construction itself. Thank goodness for the weathering that I've been using because hopefully it'll cover up a fair amount of minor inaccuracies. 
 
I'll ultimately also add oars, some rope, and other small additions that represent the clutter that was often found in the small vessels. I suspect they were often used as storage bins much the same way we all seem to have a "junk drawer" somewhere around the house.

Although I'm just posting this - this was another deck fitting project I started quite a while ago and just finished up recently. 
Based on the items in the Captain's Cabin here, you can probably tell I'm a bit fascinated with the tiny details that I feel add a huge amount of fun to a build. I think this is true particularly for the casual viewer who may not recognize the accuracy and finesse as much as those who are familiar with builds and ships. At any rate - I wanted to create the cook stove that was commonly found on ships of the era.  
 
After failing miserably at silver soldering - a talent that I envy greatly and is held by several folks on here - I ended up cutting out the pieces and using "JB Weld" - which is essentially an epoxy weld for small metal pieces.  It took a fair amount of trial and error, particularly at holding the pieces together until they dried enough.
 
The grating is from a common screen door and the pot and pan are carved made from wood with metal bits attached.