jdiven

I too am considering this as my next build.  I found the museum wonderful.  Would be interested in any and all paint schemes.

Did anyone consider the British Galleon by Amati?

I was wondering, how many of my English measuring countrymen  (or country ladies) have found that working in the metric system is easier.  I have a scientific and medical bacground, so I am comfortable with both.  Finding centers, intervals and multiples are much easier in a 10 based system.  

Just a thought.

J. Diven

My question is you first wax your rigging line then after tying etc you coat it with water- diluted PVA.  My chemistry voice says you have put a very hydrophobic coating on the lines the expose them to a water-based glue, expecting the glue to penetrate and hold the knots, line after drying.  How much penetration do you get past the wax?  Has anyone tried dilute PVA with out waxing first?  How about diluting with a better solvent like 50-50 alcohol/water to get better intrusion and quicker drying?

Just a thought.

Thanks Frankie and Duffer.  This solution is what I suspected.

I am installing lifts on my Rattlesnake.  It appears that the lift lines go between the shrouds.  If this is correct, then on a real ship the lifts will have to be adjusted when the yards are braced around.  Also, this will cause much chafing.  Have I missed something? Should I try to lead them forward of the shrouds?

Has anyone who is or has built Model Shipways Rattlesnake replaced the supplied cannons with another supplier.  I am looking at Syren 29.75mm one which should be very close to the original 27mm ones.  I am on my second attempt to relace half of the originals, but the first replacements are just as bad.

Thanks to all for your input

Thanks to all who replied, it looks like the "Chopper II" may be the best choice if I go this route.

 J.diven

Does anyone use the "Chopper or Chopper II ?  I need to make many small miter and angle cuts and the saw is to large. 

I have been experimenting with making filler, HobbyLite in this case, firmer so a good corner or edge can be

shaped  I have mixed various strengths of Tile Bond II to the filler in small amounts to make a thick paste.  Even full strength works and makes a very solid mass when dried which is easy to sand or file. Adhesion to wood also seems to improve.  Painting is no problem, but have not tried stains. 

I was wondering if anyone has tried strengthening fragile and weak parts of bulkheads and deck frames by coating the areas with dilute PVA?  I have made paper quite stiff this way.  Have not tried it yet. Any thoughts?

Just a quick update to the original question for those weighing the different option.  I drilled "bolt" hole on the straps and tacked the gudgeons first to the roughened hull with the gel CA.  I then drilled shallow holes and inserted cut down brass spikes also with CA..  I fit the middle set first, both gudgeon and pintel, then the rest.  The only thing I would do on my next build would be to drill and fit them before blackening the metal.  I had many smudges which forced repainting, but not too bad.  Hope this helps.

Very sharp looking bateau!  May I ask what make of band saw you used and how thick was the blade? 

Thanks JD

Very well written piece of history; Kudos to you

Yes, I am sure, I use diluted PVA, but had never heard of "diluted CA".

I have seen many references to " dilute CA".  What is the diluting solution?  Is there a prefered ratio?

Thanks all for the solid advice.  I am going to do the brads/brass nails with some adhesive.  I was going to just put them in shallow holes for effect, but now will use them in their structural intentions.  The wire idea is good also, but will try this way first

JD

I am at the stage of installing the rudder.  Ship is the Lively from the Lumberyard.  The fittings are very flexible and I am not sure what is the best way to proceed.  Do you install gudgeon first, then mach up the rudder or do you glue both together and attach?  Also, what is the best adhesive? Epoxy, CA, etc.

The fittings are blackened and the hull is painted and poly varnished.

Thanks all for your advice.  Tried 50% dilution and worked very well.  It was very easy to do many coats.  I also used  good brushes.which also made painting painless.

I am going to paint my hull with "Hull Tallow, MS4803" and am concerned on how thick the paint is.  I have done some small test and not knowing the solids content, am concerned about coverage if I dilute.   The hull has been sanded several time and sanding sealer applied between.  Is more than a single coat the norm?

Thanks All, This site is a life boat!!!

Has anyone considered or used a spokeshave for rounding and tapering of spars?

Thanks for all the information.  I will check out some of these suggestions.

I need some input from users of rotary tools.  Dremel seems to be the most common, but reviews are pro and con and different models are  favored over others.  I did my first small POB and did fine with common tools, but there were times a small rotary device would have done a faster and maybe better job.  I have a lot of tools for working on full size boats but few for small ones.

I am expecting my new build shortly and want to be ready.