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  1. Hide glue is used in hand made saddles, by older saddle makers, in the seat and forks, slow drying so stretching and fitting can be done, drys hard but water soluble. Think it was the main stay in cabinet and furniture making in the past. Usually purchased in a powder form and mixed with water as needed. Being water soluble it works well in saddle making because if the saddle gets wet, so will the glue which allows the leather to expand and then move back into place as it dries. jud
  2. My transit uses a needle that is locked when not in use, the outside ring is divided into half degrees with a vernier used for minutes but that is close work and a magnifying glass is used to read the vernier. Early ships compasses had the compass directions down to 12 1/2 degrees as compass points if I remember correctly. The card is free to rotate inside the case, just like the needle does when unlocked. The primary difference is how they were read, Instead of reading the outer ring like my transit or my hand compasses, on a ship you read the card using the lubbers line as the index from the helm. Probably some early ship compasses used a needle, but not by the helmsman, it must have been early when compass cards became the norm. jud
  3. Using metal requires heat, how much depends on the material, also you need to determine what the material used shrink rates are and compensate for it in the pattern. Think that most modelers use resin and soft molds. Molding tin would not be difficult to get set up for, might look at some data on the Lost Wax Method, the molds are simpler than sand molds and fit small scale more efficiently. Using sand molds you can pour Iron and brass in large quantities. Someone will be here that casts resin with soft molds that will have some experience to share. Something else you might consider is using Key Stock, I keep it around to cut small parts from, soft and easy to work. With the right size piece of key stock, a file and maybe a fine tooth hack saw, something to hang on to ( leave a handle in the stock you are making your piece from, cut it off as a last step ), and a vice. you can shape something fairly easily. jud
  4. Not over engineered, just a generous safety factor, thats good. jud
  5. I will re-post what I deleted yesterday. The only way I can see to put some meat inside the hull using your existing hole, is to form a thin-walled cup from some flexible rubber type of material. I would try making a form from what you have on hand in the shape of a flat bottomed cone. The idea is that you can insert the rubber cone inside the hull through the existing hull by rolling it up. When you get the cup inside the hull and opened up you will need a way to pull it firmly against the hull, I thought of using 4 o5 small wires placed around the bottom of the cup, long enough to pull the cup against the hull, then bending them over as an anchor, those wire would need to be part of the bundle inserted through the hole. will need adhesive around the lips of the cup to attach it to the inside hull. When the cups are securely in place, fill them with the material of your choice. The coned cups if sized right should provide for a surface contact with the inside of the hull at least 4 times the area of the drilled hole. Roll this around in your mind and put your own ideas into it, then test and do. I have no doubt you will solve your mounting hole problem, you are good at working through things like this. jud
  6. You have the model and instruction sheets, use that stuff as a pattern and guide to scratch build that sub. When you get done, you can say I built it all and invested about a year into the build with little expense. Piet could probably provide some guidance if asked. jud
  7. Sorry to hear about your health, Hope you get back to where life is more enjoyable and you can again enjoy your modeling. jud
  8. Might file or grind that screw head to a smaller diameter. I would probably go to a one slotted screw so I could reduce the head size smaller. Counter sinking the screw and using a removable plug would allow you to dismount the Cutty Sark, for whatever reason, without damage. jud
  9. I have purchased cork gasket material at auto parts and farm supply stores. Might be hard to find today, I have several rolls in the shop but they were bought over 20 years ago. Needed some a while back and found that it had hardened up and became brittle, soaked it in warm water and the cork came back to life. You can get a paper type of gasket material and cut it to size, soak it in water before you use it, makes it soft so it will take the form it needs to make a seal. Might be able to find some "O" rings to fit inside bottle caps. jud
  10. Pipe will be fine, Nenad uses hard water in his house. Nenad has shown some unique fixes and methods during this build, so far it looks like he is producing a worthy model of the Cutty Sark. jud
  11. What was most highly decorated ship of the Vietnam War
  12. From the first photo it does look as if the trunnion C/L is to high, it also looks as if the trunnions are at the bottom of the barrel, not the C/L of the bore. That was done with Cannonades not with cannons and required a different mount with slides etc.. Think you might have the proper carriages but the wrong guns to go with those carriages. jud
  13. Ball bearing sounds good. Have heard that storing the paint cans or bottles upside down helps, any seepage dries and seals the remainder, haven't tried it. jud

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