patrickmil

Sal, your planking skills are outstanding! Great job with your planking so far. I also like the simulated caulking effect you've put into this.

Sal, I'm sorry to say that I'm just now seeing this build log. The PVC steamer is an excellent idea and one that I may just steal. Your Syren is looking great.

Wrapped up USS Curtis Wilbur the other day. Here are my final pictures.
 
Overall, I thought the kit was good with plenty of well detailed parts and the final model looks the part. However, there are some detractors:
Instructions  could definitely be better. Some of the arrows are not descriptive enough to show exactly where a part needs to end up. The instructions even showed the torpedo tubes being mounted backward and an incorrect anchor/chain positioning. Some build sequences are questionable and I'd recommend careful studying to ensure that you don't run into trouble getting parts put on from following ILK's build sequence. There were also a couple of mislabeled parts. The bridge piece could have been molded differently to allow for windows that were not solid so we don't have to carefully carve them out if we don't wish to paint them. As mentioned previously, the propellers are molded too far apart. While fixing this is doable, it would be a hassle. Parts clean up could be troublesome on some parts with questionable ejector pin marks and some larger than necessary sprue nibs. Some of the photo-etch was either wholly unnecessary or just not well executed. Lastly, the whole configuration of the ship could be considered somewhat fictional. I was unable to match with real photos how they would have the final piece configured. If you're looking for 100% accuracy (I was not) then study reference photos closely and make sure you are paying attention to the year in which you are modeling USS Curtis Wilbur.




Thanks for checking it out!
 
 

Small update. The end is in sight. Sorry for the crappy pic quality - I will have better ones later. Except for a few more bits of PE, the ship is almost finished. Still have to add the mini-mast. Tomorrow I’ll seal the deck and decal it, then weather (my second favorite part after painting) it. The air wing needs to be finished. Then it’s on to making the sea dio. Is it perfect? Far, far from it. Dad likes it and that’s all that matters. Y’all have no idea how’s much I hate this kit 😂




 

The base board has been built and the model is on the nice big square columns. The nuts are glued in place and I will give it 24 hours for the glue to fully cure. Then the hull will be removed to work on and replaced back on the columns when completed so all the work on the model from the decks up can take place with no need to touch the hull.
I have also done a trial run on removing the raised rail going round the hull and it is going to be a long but worthwhile job. it requires a very sharp flat scalpel and a bit of sanding with a very fine sanding stick. 
Having just spent nearly 2 years 10 months building Titanic and Queen Mary 2 I think I might treat myself to a week of no modelling to wind down and come at this project fresh. I know being retired means I am on constant holiday. But I reckon you need a break every so often. It will also allow me to do a bit more research and decide on how to do the various alterations to the model. 
Forgive the dog hairs in the picture. They get everywhere. I have to ban her from the work area once I start painting. 

Run some Tamiya Extra Thin cement over the rescribed area; that should help tone down the sharpness of the grooves and plank edges.

Using 2mm Tamiya, I laid out the first of the landing/parking markings. Measurements came from the decals. This will take a while and then it’s on to painting the deck. 

Creating a masterpiece out of a bad kit takes time, but it looks like you have it well in hand. Good work on getting the deck down!

I really appreciate the kind words and thank you for your service! With your memory of her, I hope I did her proud.

Thank you for saying so!

I really appreciate your kind words! There are a LOT of parts there and the PE can really be daunting, but it does make for a great kit overall. The biggest drawback for me is the decals but they do go down well once you have a good plan. I think a waterline presentation would be amazing and you would be blazing a new trail with this kit by doing so; I haven't seen any other builds that have gone that route. I'm looking forward to seeing your build log!

Thanks for the kind words and watching the series. I think you'll have fun with the kit.

Thank you! I've always thought they looked pretty cool and menacing.

Thank you both!

Thank you!

Thank you!
 
Thank you! I lived mostly in the north part of the city and went to Worthington schools a couple decades ago. I just recently moved to Cincinnati though due to some family medical issues.
 

Wrapped up USS Curtis Wilbur the other day. Here are my final pictures.
 
Overall, I thought the kit was good with plenty of well detailed parts and the final model looks the part. However, there are some detractors:
Instructions  could definitely be better. Some of the arrows are not descriptive enough to show exactly where a part needs to end up. The instructions even showed the torpedo tubes being mounted backward and an incorrect anchor/chain positioning. Some build sequences are questionable and I'd recommend careful studying to ensure that you don't run into trouble getting parts put on from following ILK's build sequence. There were also a couple of mislabeled parts. The bridge piece could have been molded differently to allow for windows that were not solid so we don't have to carefully carve them out if we don't wish to paint them. As mentioned previously, the propellers are molded too far apart. While fixing this is doable, it would be a hassle. Parts clean up could be troublesome on some parts with questionable ejector pin marks and some larger than necessary sprue nibs. Some of the photo-etch was either wholly unnecessary or just not well executed. Lastly, the whole configuration of the ship could be considered somewhat fictional. I was unable to match with real photos how they would have the final piece configured. If you're looking for 100% accuracy (I was not) then study reference photos closely and make sure you are paying attention to the year in which you are modeling USS Curtis Wilbur.




Thanks for checking it out!
 
 

Ahhhhh, That's great to know. I've only seen a few of their offerings on FB and wasn't able to locate them online. Didn't think to check out evil-bay though. Thanks for the heads up!

As mentioned, here is the pic of the whole 5" gun with my mod in place. I think the barrel looks waaaaaaay better than the plastic from the kit. Still unbelievable that upgrade sets going for $500+ don't have a turned barrel.
 

While this build log is still freshly in front of me, figured I'd add a mod I made. None of the really overly expensive upgrade kits offered for this kit include a turned brass barrel or other turned brass antenna pieces for that matter. The kit barrel is ok-ish. There is a seam and a slight step was on my example. I decided to make my own out of brass. After all, nothing looks like metal more than actual metal. The company Precision Metals has always hit it out of the park with their offering of odds and ends. I'll get more pics up when the blackening has completely dried and I have it mated to the rest of the 5" gun assembly.
 


 

Hey fellas! I really appreciate those kind words. I wish I had some secret to divulge but the credit all goes to my photo etch bending tool from The Small Shop and then some very pointy tweezers to pick out each rung/step and bend them slightly down. Thanks all the same though, lol.

Hi Pete! I appreciate your kind words. I'm excited to be so close to the finish line now. Just have to dig deep and avoid the temptation to start on something new before wrapping this one up.

Thank you very much for your very kind words!

Been awhile since I've posted here. Since last time, a move from Columbus OH to Cincinnati OH has occurred. Luckily there were no casualties involved; at least on models I actually cared about. A lot has gone into USS Curtis Wilbur in the meantime. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. One strong word of caution on this kit, do NOT follow the instructions sequence when planning for the ship's rigging. The kit railings for the flag halyards are poor and at the time ILK would have you attach them, it would result in a CA glue bond between paint layers. Needless to say, I figured this out the hard way when I attempted to secure the EZ Line from the kit railings to the yardarms. My solution was to drill mounting holes in the appropriate deck, bend some brass wire, and loft the rigging accordingly. And trust me, I know the solution in the pictures is not 100% accurate.
 





 
 

The kit adds those mounts on Page 20, step 21. Just two little pieces of PE with three bends apiece.