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KLarsen

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  1. KLarsen
    There are only some low resolution photos on the Ancre website: https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/123-la-mahonesa-fregates-espagnoles-1789-9782382820131.html#/langue-1_2_serie_de_canons_au_1_48 Anyway I've got a friend of mine to create a 3d model of the cannons from the Ancre monography, if they turn out well I'll get them printed locally. Thanks everyone!
  2. KLarsen
    Thanks, however the Spanish guns on that page are almost 100 years too early, so I'd need to create the 3d model myself from the Ancre plans. And as I said, I don't have the skills to do that. That's why I don't mind paying a higher price for 3d prints of the correct cannons from Ancre, if the quality is worth it.
  3. KLarsen
    Sorry for reviving this thread, but has anyone bought any of the cannons offered by Ancre and can tell if they are of good quality? I'm thinking of buying some for my La Mahonesa cross section, and Ancre has confirmed that I can buy them piecemeal without having to buy a full set. They charge 4€ per cannon, which seems reasonable. I would make them myself, but my Blender/3D skills are basically non existent...
  4. KLarsen
    Great start to a very interesting boat, I'll be following your log! 😄
  5. KLarsen
    I finished the knees over the weekend and also created and installed the curved rail for the rudder tiller. Although I'm still missing the rearmost angled knees which are tricky to make. I had some difficulty installing the curved rail at the correct height under the beams, I opted to install it under a riser so the ends were at the correct height and the rail perpendicular to the keel. I looked at some photos of the HMS Victory for comparison. Next I will be partially planking the battery deck and preparing the pulleys for the tiller. Also, you might have noticed my photos are better quality, I just bought a new phone. 📷
  6. KLarsen
    Continuing work on the deck beams and the knees. Before I can install all the beams I need to deviate a bit and build the rudder and its mechanism.
  7. KLarsen
    I installed the inner planking and the huge curves tying the yoke together with the frames. With this I can begin fitting the gun deck beams, though before installing those I need to make the rudder and the tiller mechanism.
  8. KLarsen
    By the way, I realise the way I've done the inner stern planking and the water way is wrong: it shouldn't be this wide but should have been more curved. I'm not sure why I didn't realise this earlier. Anyway I'm not going to redo it, I'd destroy more than I could fix, I'll just take it as yet another lesson learnt.
  9. KLarsen
    This is what I ended up doing, thanks! In the end, no one will be able to see it anyway. I finished planking the middle of the orlop deck. I decided to leave the rest unplanked so the underlying structure can be seen, as well as the sail room below which is otherwise only accessible by the small hatch. The inside of the frames will be planked, this way it's easier to install the knees supporting the battery deck beams and the yoke. And since the wales cover the outside of the frames at this height, it wouldn't be possible to see much anyway if I were to leave the inside open. For the stern area I had to cut a piece from a sheet and shape it to fit the inside curves. There was simply no way I could bend a strip this much. Sadly the starboard piece broke at the end just as I was gluing it on, so there's a seem there that I probably won't be able to sand away.
  10. KLarsen
    Continuing with the deck structure. I'll probably only install 2 more planks either side and leave the rest open except for the middle, which will be completely planked.
  11. KLarsen
    Question: Does anyone know how the middle deck planks should terminate on the keelson? The plans don't really tell. I could either just make the planks butt up against the keelson or glue a strip onto the keelson and let the planks rest on that, nailing them in place. I'm leaning towards the last solution, I'm just wondering how it would have been done on the real ship.
  12. KLarsen
    The main reasons I build models are: I like how I'm able to bring something I only have a mental image of into a real object. These days I only do scratch building from plans and have to interpret those and create a mental object of the ship, then start cutting the wood and actually build it. It's very satisfying to then see the final object realised. I build with wood because I like working with it and it is challenging; you need to know how to cut it the right way, it is not like plastic that can be cut any way you want. Also, I love the colour and finish of the wood. Why ships? Probably because I have a romantic view of them, there's something timeless and beautiful about wooden sailing ships. I build both civilian and military vessels but am mostly interested in Mediterranean ships from the earliest times till around 1800. The look of the ship is more important to me than its history. I'd much rather build a model of a completely unknown merchant ship than the HMS Victory. And lastly, it's relaxing! Sometimes when building I get completely absorbed and don't even know what time it is.
  13. KLarsen
    To create the waterways for the orlop deck I first built up a template from thick crafting paper, then cut out the piece from wood and shaped it. It was the only way I could think of to get the complex curves correct. The plans don't show how the deck planks would be fastened at the very end, so I created a small piece and put it on the deck clamp. It's far from perfect but it won't be possible to see it once the deck is planked. I'll most likely plank the whole insides of this deck up to the main deck clamp, including the stern. Especially because I don't like the way the stern is looking right now where you can see the back of the outer planking.
  14. KLarsen
    I'm not a kit builder but I have to admit that it's pretty cool! Much better than the Occre Victory kit from a few months back which just looked weird in my opinion.
  15. KLarsen
    While I won't be installing any LEDs I couldn't resist simulating the light coming from the light room. Also, I installed the last deck beams for the orlop deck. Now comes the difficult task of creating the crazily curved waterways. I'll probably have to cut it from a sheet as there's no way I'll be able to bend a strip to follow those curves at the stern.
  16. KLarsen
    @James Flynn does it have to be that exact ship of would you consider building another similar one? Ancre has several top quality monographs (fully detailed plans and descriptions of construction) of similar French ships of the line. You could consider buying one of those so you don't need to do any lofting and a lot less research.
  17. KLarsen
    Another option would be to build a cross section of the ship to get a taste of what it involves. This way you could detail all of the interior without it being covered by the frames and decks.
  18. KLarsen
    I would strongly encourage you not to make a POF build, it's a HUGE undertaking (I'm not exaggerating). It requires you to have a good understanding of how the real ship was built. Take a look at the many build logs here to get an idea of what's involved.
  19. KLarsen
    It says: "Horizontal and vertical sections equidistant from the hull, outside [including] the planking". By "hull", I suppose it means the centerline.
  20. KLarsen
    The profile views on the left part of the plans only show one side because both sides have the same curve. The left part of the drawing is from midships aft, the right side from midships forward. The curved lines correspond to the vertical lines on the side view of the ship. You'll have to identify them one by one to see which corresponds to which if they are not identified. Regarding the "D" shape I suppose you're referring to the bow? By taking the lines as I explained above you should automatically get the bow shape, though you might have to extrapolate to get the intermediate frames not shown. Are you building the ships as plank-on-frame (POF) or plank-on-bulkhead (POB)? POF is quite difficult and requires you to do "lofting", getting the curve of all the frames using all the lines on the plans.
  21. KLarsen
    I decided to go ahead and fully plank the platform as well as install all the panels separating the rooms and corridors. I'm well aware that it'll hide a lot of the details like the lantern room, but it seemed the best way to show how cramped the ships interior was. I'll also install the bulkhead behind the platform (the lower plank is already in place) even though it will completely hide the sail room behind. With this, I can install the last deck beams for the orlop deck and decide how much to plank it, whether entirely or just a few planks.
  22. KLarsen
    I'm finishing the munitions and lantern room and planking the platform above them. I haven't decided if I'll fully plank that deck or not, planking it will completely hide the lantern room but will make it easier to install the bulkheads above. I'm also fitting the beams for the orlop deck which are necessary to install the pillars supporting the mizzen mast. It really is a puzzle finding out which pieces to install and when. The deck is planked with wooden nails but they are hardly visible (like on a real deck).
  23. KLarsen
    I've emailed them on a few occasions and they often take a long time in replying. Did you at least receive an automatic reply when you sent your email?
  24. KLarsen
    It's finally time to get started on all the interior stuff. I've installed the platform for the powder and munitions room, and today I finished the bulkhead between the powder room and the lantern room. I won't be adding any glass in the panes, I think that'll just distract from the look. I'm really happy with how the window turned out, if I can do as well with the big stern windows I'll have no complaints! The only thing I'm not happy with is how the inner planking terminates at the very stern; it was difficult to bend them and almost impossible to sand them there. However, most likely it won't be seen at all when the bulkheads and deck planking is in place. It's always nice when you can just hide your sloppy craftsmanship! 🤣
  25. KLarsen
    After posting the pictures the other day I found out I'd installed the lower decks clamps a little too high up, though I was able to remove them using a hair drier and reinstall them a little lower. I also installed the thickstuff (I think they're called?), the 2 x 3 planks running along the inside. This is most likely all the inner planking I'll add. I also added nails on the upper bulwarks. I used 0,3mm copper wire here, the 0,5mm I've used elsewhere seemed a little too think for these planks. With this I can get started on the decks, first will be the platform in the bottom where the powder room is. I've yet to decide how many bulkheads I'll install, I want the interior to be visible while also giving an idea of how cramped it was. Again, thanks everyone for the kind comments and likes, it's much appreciated! 😊

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