bluenose2

Hello Jim Lad, Les here. Good stuff. When stepping the masts on the lower deck I see what my plans show. Should I just follow and take the 1 to 1 scale measurements as gospel? What would the correct procedure be for stepping these mast so you don't get them out of whack?

Hello Les here. I have been through the same rodeo. After some web searches on this subject. Here are some of the sites I have come up with. maritime models.uk, naturecoast.com, bluejacketinc.com, castyouranchorhobby.com. Or just type in on your web browser wooden model ship boats.

Hello Les here. I have a question about setting masts for rigging. Should I set the main, fore and mizzen lower masts then rig the shrouds, then build and install the top masts after? Build from the bottom up?

Hello Les here. I am in the current build of the 1/64 HMS Beagle. I am being stymied trying to find a supplier who has the deep sea sounding winch that was mounted on the aft deck. A most prevalent piece to be sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello Les here. A question. Are you able to spray the hull with an air brush or rattle can? If so this is the way to go. Simply pick a flat lacquer rattle can of Varathane or you could use a solvent based clear coat. Be aware that solvent based paints take 12 hours to fully dry where lacquer is ready in about 2. So same day workability. Blow two light coats on and give a light sand between coats. Your now ready for any paint. What I have found out with brushed on primers is they lay down too thick and your forced to sand out the finish to make it smooth before paint. If you are going to paint a hull with colours it is best to use an airbrush so you can tint the primer to a close final coat colour.

Hello jbshan. Les here. I have scouted out some wood species here in a very reputable store. Their poplar is very variegated with a lot of green. Eastern Canada has a more white version. As per Matrim holly isn't available here either. Windsor plywood only carries large cuts of specialty woods. Ordering these types would cost about $100.00 dollars to do a deck from an eastern supplier. That is why a 2x4 which has a white colour was what I was thinking.

Hello Les here. I made a boo boo on my current build. I followed kit instructions for the build, got ahead of my self and didn't put any bracing below deck for the masts. ?%X#*. Now I may have a big problem. Any ideas on how to secure the masts below deck? Thnx Les.

Hello jbshan. Les back. Gotcha on the grain issue. As a carpenter I know full well that damp 2x4's will warp when they dry out. When building I always try to pick the ones that are lighter than the rest. 

Hello Les here. I have a question about after market supplied goodies for your deck work. If a ship is scaled at 1/64 would a binnacle compass or windlass etc. be out of scale on a 1/60 scale model? The reason I ask is that I don't have the skill level to build a 1/64 scale brass compass or binnacle. So I don't want to get in a position where deck items are too large or too small and ruin the look.

Hello Les back. Another question. If I were to purchase a common 2 x 4, I could get a light coloured soft wood for decking. Spruce, pine or fir is the common supply. They are dirt cheap in North America. An 8 foot 2x4 is two dollars. I would select the best clear one and would have an almost lifetime supply of inexpensive decking or first planking on a plank on bulkhead model. Any thoughts on workability issues etc?

Hello Les here. I have a question about deck planking on a 17th century ship such as the HMB Endeavour. I would like to replace the kit supplied with something better. I will make my own. In Ron McCarthy's book Building plank on frame ship models he suggests using Sheet lime, apple or pear. Not woods I can get readily in western Canada. Would clear maple be a good replacement? 

Hello Les here. My first  wooden ship kit was purchased by my wife for me. A Bluenose kit by an extinct kit producer called Dikar. There was no internet at that time and any info was what I could scrounge from a book store. Not a great beginning. But based on my modelling knowledge a good kit was produced. Now we have a place such as Model Ship World that has great people and a huge data base to help us with any questions we can think of. For a beginner there is a lure to jump into a super kit right off the bat, but disaster is but a breath away. The way to kill a potential builder is get in over your head out of the gate. All of what you say is good. However there are many plank on bulkhead kits that are not too difficult for first time builders. The internet is full of info and kits for any build level. Just get out there and look at the suppliers, you will be rewarded.

Hello Gaetan Les back. Yes you can rip thin strips as you say. However if your trying to consistantly rip deck planking that is 1mm x 5mm say, you have be careful extracting the cut piece out of the feed end by the fence. Dicey. This can cause chatter and leave saw blade marks on your cut. Not to mention having it sucked past the blade and zero clearance plate. Reviews of the Rockler product has been suggested by one user to purchase two of these units so the wood can be guided doubly before the blade to reduce wobble of the feed stock. I will use my Krieg feather boards to possibly do the same thing. I will put another feather board past the blade to ensure that the piece being cut does not flutter left or right making contact with the blade so as to reduce chatter marks. As a carpenter I would just like to point out how dangerous it is to try and cut very fine rips between the fence and blade. I have had all the possible things that could happen, happen. Murphy's Law. 

Hello Roger. Les here. I am interested in how good this unit is. My hope is that it can successfully rip 1 - 2 mm thin pieces. Are you satisfied with it?

Hello Gaetan. Les here. There is a distinct advantage to ripping very thin pieces of wood outboard of the fence. By trapping 1/16 inch strips between the fence and the blade you risk shattering them or cutting yourself. For those interested in what this unit looks like go to Rockler tools. It is called the thin rip jig. Stk # 36833.

Hello Les here. Belaying pin racks have many holes so it gives an option where to belay a rope or whatever. Also provides space for spare pins.

Bonjour Gaetan. I am looking at making my own planking etc instead of purchasing after market products. This appears to be able to rip 1 mm thin strips. I can't do that reliably on my table saw without the danger of loosing pieces or my fingers. Hopefully this one will work. Merci.

Hello Les here. Your useless tool guru. Have found a jig on the Rockler Tools web site. Take a look at the thin rip jig for your table saw. Item # 36833.  Any feed back, maybe the best but who knows. It's on the way.

Hello Les here. Thanks mates. Good pics by Rick 01. I sometimes think that kit makers just throw in what ever is in the bin to make a kit. It makes us spend hundreds of dollars to correct. Oh well thnx Les.

Good evening. Les here. I have question about the belaying pins supplied with my 1/64 HM Bark Endeavour. When viewed in scale they would appear to be the size of a regular glass coke bottle. I have ordered replacements from Cauldercraft that are 9.75 x 1.5 mm. Much slimmer in size. Would these be a better fit? Thnx Les.

Hello druxey. Les here. In general would a stern lantern have lit red? I agree that the glass or what ever would have clear or opaque. But if so what would have a ship done to make the light appear red if that is correct?

Hello Les here. Some of the pictures of elm tree pumps were painted. Would this be typical or would natural be also correct?

Thanx Banyan. Thats what I figured. Some models show the top of the pump higher than the Marquardt book. I will go by the book.

Hello Les here. I have a question about the stern lantern on a ship. On my model of Cook's ship HMB Endeavour, the glass supplied is red. Would the glass have been clear with a red light or is this correct?

Hello Les here. I have a question about the ships pumps for Cook's ship the HMB Endeavour. Models I have researched on line show the pumps just mounted on the deck full height. The Marquardt book shows them with only a portion showing above deck. Most of it below deck? Which would be correct?