bluenose2

Hello Les here. Heres my two cents worth. Sorry Canada doesn't have pennies any more. So one tooney. I used to watch a PBS show called the Furniture Guys. Great stuff and very comedic. They used to make their own wood dyes by soaking chains, and any other piece of metallic junk they could find in water and anything else they could come up with. Interesting as entertainment but a waste of time in my opinion. Go to any good paint store and they will have a great selection of water based stains. Just apply and finish. Controllable and predictable. No alchemy required.

Hello Les here. I have a question about the posts for bitts and belaying pin racks.The tops of these posts are tapered. Is there a way to set up a production line for tapering the tops ? I have many to do>

Hello Les here. I agree with the above. A schooner can  support a set of sails. As a Canadian this is an iconic ship. I purchased the book Bluenose, by Brian and Phil Backman. It has several pictures of this ship under full sail and a full history. ISBN: 0-7710-1000-1. Highly recommended. Also if you rig her with sails maybe consider doing a base that makes her look under sail instead of the traditional vertical bases. Woodland Scenics has great suggestions bases upon railroad dioramas but has excellent water effects. Just saying.

Hello Les here. The cannons supplied in my kit are a brownish colour. Also swivel guns are shiny metallic gray. How would I paint these out to be more realistic?

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Hello Les here. I use a cleaning jar called silicoil. Just type it into google. It has an aluminum coil to drag your brush on to clean. Highly recommended. And for solvent based products such as minwax, use paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean. For lacquer based products, lacquer thinner. Soap and water will not clean solvent based products. Be aware that if you use water based products, do not use natural bristle brushes. They will flair out whilst drying. Best for all products is a polyester bristle brush. It can handle soap and water, paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Hopes this helps.

Ok gotcha.

Thnx mtaylor. I am considering making a diorama of a build of a ship in harbour loading up to set sail. Can you tell me if there is a link for a build on this? Thnx Les.

Hello Les here. Another option is lacquer thinner. I know its volatile, but I use it in furniture refinishing to remove all sorts of contaminates. Especially oils. Gloves and a ventilated space such as outdoors I would recommend.

Hello Les here. A question. In the time of sailing ships prior to davits. How would the ships boats or anything else that was heavy be brought on board or lowered off? Does anyone have references that show this or possibly pictures of rigged models showing this procedure.

Hello Les here. Can anyone tell me if they have used Liquitex modeling paste to prime a hull in prep for the second planking?

Hello Roger, Les here. Solvent based contact is a good choice. Pre prime areas to be covered with a gloss coat of anything you like. That way the contact has a good bonding surface. Coat both sides with a thin covering of contact. Wait till dry to the touch then apply. Be aware however that grab will be  instantaneous, with no way to reposition. When doing compound curves, pre form the piece before bonding otherwise you may get a crease when trying to laminate it. This applies to coverings that aren't backed with an adhesive.

Hello mtdoramike. Good advice.  I keep new builds packed away so I can't peek. After this build I will go back and finish the Snowberry, as it will complete my WWII collection. Wasn't tired of the basic build really, just the amount of photo etch I bought for it. That's going to get scaled back to preserve my sanity so I can Keep Calm And Carry On.

Hello Les here from the bustling metropolis of Beaumont Alberta. Thanks for the pics. What type of sail boat?

Hello Les here. Am co building the HMS Endeavour. The Marquardt book shows copper sheathing to prevent chafing by the gaff on the masts. Would this have had a patina look or bright copper?

Hello everyone. Further,as per photo one this is the decoration on the taffarel. The Corel kit has none?? Do I have to learn a new trade or is there a supplier that could help?

Hello dgbot. Upper picture is the correct fitting as per the Marquart book on this issue. However the second photo shows the kit supplied item. Can't kit bash this one. Are there any suppliers or any advice on how to correct this glaring issue?

Hello Les here. I am building the 1/64 Corel Endeavour. The kit supplied windows for the captains cabin with dead lights are incorrect. Does anyone know of a supplier that could help out? Thnx.

Hello Les here. Further question to this would be the airing ports. Would they be rigged with rope to open and close? When all were shut would they be flush with the hull planking or be proud of same?

Hello Les here. After reading the responses I will add my two cents worth. Replank the deck.  RE: Frank Mastini, use a small nail or pin to make two identical indentations at the corners of each plank. Sand the deck with fine sandpaper; the sawdust will collect in the indentations. Finish with varnish. The sawdust will darken simulating nail heads. Re sand with fine sandpaper. This should help.

Hello Dan G. Les here. I built this kit last year. I sanded all of the laser burn marks off of every thing. Then assembled kit. That way you don't get that black line all over. I just wiped a light coat of teak oil on the hull to blend in the wood planking etc. Make sure it dries dull with no shiny spots. If you don't the dust will show up. Also I went to a fabric store and bought some red and off white stripped material for the sail. Way better than trying to paint cloth. Man everything stunk of burnt campfire while sanding this stuff out.

Hello Les here. Can anyone tell me where to purchase 1/64 cannon shot.

Hello Les here. I have used a brand called Flexigrit for years in my plastic modelling days. 3M makes excellent products for this purpose. I use them also.

Hello Les here. Ok, I have a new one for you guys. I purchased the Amati electric plank bending tool. It supplies a jig for forming curves. Have tried it out on the long boat for the Endeavour. Works great. Have used the forward portion of the decking to make a template for the planking. If you cut a form with your bandsaw it could potentially work for some compound curves. So do I need to hide under my desk in shame on this one or did I get it right?

Hello Tadeusz. Les here. Question. Would all ships of the 1700's have had hammock netting? I don't see this on any ship building plans I have.

Hello Les here. Thanks everyone one for the info. After building some WW II water craft it amazes me at how colourful theses ships were. The whole idea was to camouflage. I know this was a different era. I will probably build a hull with limited colour and paint out and oil items like cannons, binnacles and long boats for a colour break on deck to draw your eye to these items. Some cannon balls on deck will complete the picture. Once again thanx.