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bluenose2

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  1. I agree with all above. You might wan't to add the brain damage suffered from trying to sort out the inscrutable instructions supplied with some of the kits I have built over the years. My wife came downs stairs once after a tirade I had during a build of a Billings kit and threatened to have me sent to the Hotel Silly. But seriously, if you can, major sanding and painting outside or a paint booth, mask and air handling system for indoors. Man the Admiral gets mad when I come upstairs coughing and beating dust off my clothes.
  2. Hi dragzz Les Here. Billings kits can be a little frustrating becuase they don't give you enough information on the plans. I ended up kit bashing several items to make it work. If you google the Vancouver maritime museum you'll be able to get pictures of the real thing. A huge benefit. I was fortunate enough to be able to go to the museum and take photos. One take away is how small this ship really is. I can't beleive that the crew would spend 2 years at sea in this thing. This is a ship with great Canadian history. Three books for viewing are The Big Ship by Frank R. Sheer and Edvard Omholt-Jensen, Arctic Assignment by Sgt. F.S.Farrar R.C.M.P. and Arctic workhorse The RCMP Schooner ST. Roch. By James Delgado. All very highly recommended.
  3. Hello SpyGlass. I have a book by Ron Mccarthy. Building Plank on Frame Models. Conway Maritime Press. ISBN 0-85177-991-3. In it it shows a schematic for a brake pump. It is indeed made from an elm tree and is hexagonal. He gives dimensions etc. I could post a photo or two if it does not violate copywright laws.
  4. My question would be what parts are you staining. As to glue up, use small amounts so you reduce squeeze out. Less is more. Clean up can be problematic. Softer woods will soak up adhesive and make it difficult to remove excess adhesive. I wait for the glue to set up until rubbery and scrape off. Some water on a Q Tip helps after. CA can pose issues as it coats and seals the wood, making any consistent staining impossible. Be very careful with this product. Best to use to attach or hold fast pre built items or planking. Staining in place poses it's own problems. Oil based stains may tend to leak under masking tape and contaminate the woods next to it, latex not so much. Same goes for painting. Hope this helps.
  5. thnx vaddoc. I have maple and oak on hand. The reason for my choice of mahogany is it isn't too harsh of a contrast between the walnut planking but just enough to show another wood. Anything such as oak or maple would be too much of a contrast and draw your eye to this band. I know mahogany has a larger grain than walnut, so I will pick through my mahogany stock to find a sample with a much tighter grain. Hope it works.
  6. Thnx. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig for bending. I suspect that the wood is too thick. I will re rip at 1mm x 4mm and see how it goes. I wanted a contrast in wood to ofset a solid walnut hull.
  7. Thnx everyone. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig. Worked well on the 1st planking and the 1 mm walnut. I believe I will rip some more mahogany at 1 mm and double plank this area. I was going for a variation of wood on the wales to break up a solid walnut look.If it still breaks oh well I will try another type of contrasting wood.
  8. Sorry I did this three times. Just took my lap top and gave it a tightening.
  9. I have run into an issue that has stumped me. I have on hand some old growth mahogany from the late 50's. I have ripped into 2 mm x 5 mm strips for the planking on the wales of my ship. When I try to bend it after soaking for 3 hours it breaks on the hardest bend around the bow. Am building the 1/60 Endeavour. I have ripped it the other way based on grain but still breaks.I know this is much thicker than say .05 mm planking. I am now soaking it for one week to see what happens. My concern is if this works, it may shrink after glue up and cause a later issues with gaps in the planking. What should I do? I am thinking that because of it's age it has lost it's essential oils and become too brittle.
  10. I have run into an issue that has stumped me. I have on hand some old growth mahogany from the late 50's. I have ripped into 2 mm x 5 mm strips for the planking on the wales of my ship. When I try to bend it after soaking for 3 hours it breaks on the hardest bend around the bow. Am building the 1/60 Endeavour. I have ripped it the other way based on grain but still breaks.I know this is much thicker than say .05 mm planking. I am now soaking it for one week to see what happens. My concern is if this works, it may shrink after glue up and cause a later issues with gaps in the planking. What should I do? I am thinking that because of it's age it has lost it's essential oils and become too brittle.
  11. I have run into an issue that has stumped me. I have on hand some old growth mahogany from the late 50's. I have ripped into 2 mm x 5 mm strips for the planking on the wales of my ship. When I try to bend it after soaking for 3 hours it breaks on the hardest bend around the bow. Am building the 1/60 Endeavour. I have ripped it the other way based on grain but still breaks.I know this is much thicker than say .05 mm planking. I am now soaking it for one week to see what happens. My concern is if this works, it may shrink after glue up and cause a later issues with gaps in the planking. What should I do? I am thinking that because of it's age it has lost it's essential oils and become too brittle.
  12. I am building the 1/60 Corel HMB Endeavour. I have questions about the finishing of the hull. Karl Heinz Marquardt's book states that sheathing of the lower hull was done with pitch, tar and sulphur. Not painted white. Sheathing below the waterline was done with fir planking. Would this have covered up the paying so you only see fir? Sides were payed with varnish. Would this have been a flat finish or would it have a slight gloss? Wales were blackened with tar. Any help would be good.
  13. John, The rings are larger and make them easier to use. Another plus is they grind the nose to a needle sharp point. Perfect for close work. One of the blades has micro serrations so line does not slip out during cutting.
  14. Hello everyone. I have just received the best pair of scissors yet. Designed for fly tying but perfect for our hobby. They are the Stellar Scissors 2.0. Very good price point. You won't be disappointed. And no I don't work for this company. It should be in your tool box. Go to risingfish.net. Dylan is a great guy. Please check it out.

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