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bluenose2

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  1. So I think this is what I'm going to try. Take a small sharp blade and very carefully scrape the joint so I don't feel any sharp edge on the joint. Then flood in some Varathane to seal the crack. Then I will see if I can polish and buff the repair. I will use some Novis polishing compound used for Plexiglass scratch repairs and see if this works. If that isn't satisfactory I will mask out and spray new clear coat just like an auto body shop would do for a repair.
  2. The model stays in my basement, were humidity is around 32% and around 18 Celcius.
  3. As this is a static kit I can't get into the back side. I checked for movement between bulkheads but there isn't any. I suspect it is a shrinkage issue as all planks were soaked to get them to conform to the contour of the barrel back hull.
  4. 6 years ago I built a Dumas Barrel back boat. I have noticed that two of the planks have separated at the joints. My question is this a repairable issue? I used the correct Chris Craft stain supplied by the supplier but don't have any supply of it any longer. Any recommendations would help.
  5. You and your brother are lucky men Sailor1234567890. It seems that this craft is a highly coveted assignment for both captain and crew. I would be interesting to see how she does in the Vic Maui race now that she has a new hull. I have downloaded some excellent colour photos of her in port with all the trimmings. I have the book also, called "The People's Boat", by Shirley Hewett. It will be figuring out hull drawings and how to render them into frames to make the hull. The next difficult part will be some of the deck items etc. You can't buy them off the shelf. But other than that I'm stoked to give it a go.
  6. My table saw and blades are fine. That isn't the issue. My question is if you look at the end of a 3/4" x 4" walnut plank, which way would you rip it to get the most flexible planking? Would you stand it up and rip .5mm strips then rip it to 5mm or lay it flat 3/4" rip .5mm strips then cut to 5mm? And sorry as I said I am talking about walnut, the second planking a lot of manufactures supply in your kit.
  7. Sorry all, I am talking walnut. The wood that Mamoli includes in the kit for second planking. Just looking for some advice on which way I should rip my 1x4 planks as the manufacturer would have done.
  8. The dimensions are 4mm x .05 mm and 5 mm x .05. Modelers Central sells for $.64 ea US and a British site sells for .05 pounds each. I require 60 pieces so with the exchange on both suppliers I'm looking at nearly $100.00 dollars to get it. I can cut my own for the power required to run my table saw.
  9. I don't know what species of wood that Mamoli or Corel uses, but I have a good stock of American oak left over from other cabinet jobs. If you look at the end grain of a 2x4 you'll see concentric rings. I can't see them on my oak as the grain is very tight.
  10. Hi Les here. I am finishing up my Beagle but have run out of walnut second planking. To source it pre cut will cost about $100.00 to get it shiped to my house here in Canada. I have some 1x4 planks in my shop. I can cut it on my table saw but I don't know in which direction I would do it. I tried this before and the planks cracked when trying to install them. So do I stand it up tall on the four inch and cut to thickness and then cut to width or the reverse?
  11. Hi Les here. I purchased a micro lux micro sander #81266 from MicroMark tools. If you require something for detail work this may be a good choice. I use mine regularly for removing glue build up in tight areas and paint bleed on trim. Best part is after you have used up the adhesive sanding pads you just go buy adhesive sheets for random orbital sanders and cut to size.
  12. Hello Les here. I agree with reklein on this issue. I was suckered into trying latex paint. Hey a litre or quart is dirt cheap compared to model paints. Also I tried a rattle can on my 1/72 Snowberry. Covered all the detail and had to use laquer thinner to remove it from the photo etch. I don't have experience with Vallejo but I use Tamiya and this is a very good product.
  13. Hi. Les back. The plans I received are in different scales based upon what the plan sheet shows. I will be having them scanned to a certain scale once I decide upon size. I have downloaded several colour pictures and have decent reference guidelines. The ship has a steel hull so I'm wondering what would be the best way to render it. My most concerning issue is with the supply and building fittings this ship has. Things like fairleads etc are high chrome etc. This will be my biggest concern. I think a larger scale as Jim Lad says will make it easier to recreate the smaller details. I am very fortunate as to have a signed print rendered by noted marine artist John Horton showing this beauty under full sail displaying the prominent Oriole on the foresale. This should make a nice compliment to the finished model. Thank You mtaylor I will post and will be asking for much help as this will be my first scratch build.
  14. Hello Les here. I am in the process of planning and build of the HMCS Oriole. Canadas oldest serving ship. I have full plans and am wondering about scale. Not too big, not too small. Any ideas? Sorry if it's in the wrong slot.
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