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  1. As to resistance soldering I have looked at this and the equipment involved. I just don't know anything about it or if it requires different techniques to achieve the same results.
  2. Thanx guys. If I get this right I'll be able to solder fly hairs to a microbe.
  3. Well here we go. No guts no glory. Thanks for your help. Fortunately two extras are included, so hopefully I can get this right before I start on the real ones.
  4. I have pictures in books but they are not close ups. I understand the assembly process and know what they look like, but I'm wondering if would be easier to leave 23 on the fret and solder 22 to it. Or reverse. Im concerned that any alligator clips etc. for holding parts may act as a heat sink and make it difficult to solder such fine parts. I use a Weller WES51 soldering unit for small work and a small hand held butane tourch for larger work. I guess what I'm saying is how would you guys hold the parts together so I can solder them?
  5. As you can see. These parts are very small. I don't think I can solder any of these. CA will be the way, but it is figuring out how to assemble them is what's got me.
  6. After a long and arduous trek I am finally on the back end of my build of the 1/72 Revell Corvette Snowberry. The thing I have left to the last is the build of the photo etch holders of the amunition for the 4" main gun. This comprises 3 miniscule pieces for the holders of the shells. 36 in total. I'm hoping someone has completed this part and could give me some advise. I can't figure out how to build a jig or some other way to make these units.
  7. I agree with all above. You might wan't to add the brain damage suffered from trying to sort out the inscrutable instructions supplied with some of the kits I have built over the years. My wife came downs stairs once after a tirade I had during a build of a Billings kit and threatened to have me sent to the Hotel Silly. But seriously, if you can, major sanding and painting outside or a paint booth, mask and air handling system for indoors. Man the Admiral gets mad when I come upstairs coughing and beating dust off my clothes.
  8. Hi dragzz Les Here. Billings kits can be a little frustrating becuase they don't give you enough information on the plans. I ended up kit bashing several items to make it work. If you google the Vancouver maritime museum you'll be able to get pictures of the real thing. A huge benefit. I was fortunate enough to be able to go to the museum and take photos. One take away is how small this ship really is. I can't beleive that the crew would spend 2 years at sea in this thing. This is a ship with great Canadian history. Three books for viewing are The Big Ship by Frank R. Sheer and Edvard Omholt-Jensen, Arctic Assignment by Sgt. F.S.Farrar R.C.M.P. and Arctic workhorse The RCMP Schooner ST. Roch. By James Delgado. All very highly recommended.
  9. Hello SpyGlass. I have a book by Ron Mccarthy. Building Plank on Frame Models. Conway Maritime Press. ISBN 0-85177-991-3. In it it shows a schematic for a brake pump. It is indeed made from an elm tree and is hexagonal. He gives dimensions etc. I could post a photo or two if it does not violate copywright laws.
  10. My question would be what parts are you staining. As to glue up, use small amounts so you reduce squeeze out. Less is more. Clean up can be problematic. Softer woods will soak up adhesive and make it difficult to remove excess adhesive. I wait for the glue to set up until rubbery and scrape off. Some water on a Q Tip helps after. CA can pose issues as it coats and seals the wood, making any consistent staining impossible. Be very careful with this product. Best to use to attach or hold fast pre built items or planking. Staining in place poses it's own problems. Oil based stains may tend to leak under masking tape and contaminate the woods next to it, latex not so much. Same goes for painting. Hope this helps.
  11. thnx vaddoc. I have maple and oak on hand. The reason for my choice of mahogany is it isn't too harsh of a contrast between the walnut planking but just enough to show another wood. Anything such as oak or maple would be too much of a contrast and draw your eye to this band. I know mahogany has a larger grain than walnut, so I will pick through my mahogany stock to find a sample with a much tighter grain. Hope it works.
  12. Thnx. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig for bending. I suspect that the wood is too thick. I will re rip at 1mm x 4mm and see how it goes. I wanted a contrast in wood to ofset a solid walnut hull.
  13. Thnx everyone. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig. Worked well on the 1st planking and the 1 mm walnut. I believe I will rip some more mahogany at 1 mm and double plank this area. I was going for a variation of wood on the wales to break up a solid walnut look.If it still breaks oh well I will try another type of contrasting wood.

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