JSGerson

I think you hit the color perfectly. Nice job!
 
Jon

Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.

Well, I’m back, sort of. After 9 months, my left eye can almost see 20/20 with my new glasses. My right eye is starting to heal after about 2 months, so it has a way to go. Reading and close-up are still hit or miss, but with my close-up head gear magnifier, I should be OK…. considering we have a pandemic going on.
 
While I was dealing with my eyes, I got a full-blown hacker attack who tried to steal my credit. It involved all my credit cards (email and postal address change attempts, additional cards in different names, attempts to add on accounts), my savings bank account, the financial institution accounts where my financial advisor is, attempted online purchases through Google and ebay and they even tried changing my US Mail address. All within a 5 day period. Luckily, I was able to thwart it in time by changing account numbers, login IDs and passwords, acquiring all new credit cards and numbers, professionally having my computer checked for viruses (there were none) and notifying the all three of the credit bureaus and the IRS. A real pain in the butt. I hope that’s the end of it
 
So, hopefully I won’t have any more interruptions and have started working on the model again. Looking forward to posting new stuff soon.

Within an hour of my last posting things changed. It had been almost a year since my left eye cataract surgery. I had seen the eye doctor for a scheduled appointment the previous week for the right and told him that I was feeling occasional pain. He said it was time we did the right since the right cataract had gotten bigger and was swelling the lens. The following week I got the required EKG and Covid-19 test. BTY, the Covid-19 test is the longest 15 seconds you will ever endure – painful. OK that brings it up to my last post. I get a pain like someone pokes me in the eye which lasts from Saturday evening to Monday morning and my right vision is completely fogged over. My left vision still hasn’t fully recovered. I still can’t read with it
 
The original planned 20-minute surgery took an hour and a half which the doctor described as the most difficult surgery he had performed in his 35-year career. So right now, my right eye is still fogged up with four stitches and my left eye has no close-up vision. Corrective lens are about two months away, awaiting stitches removal and healing. Model building will have to wait some more.
 
Typing this message was a pain even with the zoom in and spell check capabilities of a word processor. I keep hitting the wrong keys.

Thanks for the complements albeit a bit undeserved. To paraphrase an old saying, I'm standing on the shoulders of some might great builders. As for video recording, I build so slow that by the time I finish, today's video type, standard, method, etc. would be obsolete and YouTube would probable go the way of MySpace 8-). I've 2 1/2 years so far into this project and I'm 72 years of age. It's a race to see who finishes first!!!

I think you hit the color perfectly. Nice job!
 
Jon

I think you hit the color perfectly. Nice job!
 
Jon

I think you hit the color perfectly. Nice job!
 
Jon

Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.

USS Constitution - Model Shipway’s Kit No.: MS2040
“Old Ironsides” 1797 Frigate
Scale: 5/32” = 1 ft. (1:76.8)
 
This is my second POB square rigged ship; I spent about seven years building my first, Mamoli’s Rattlesnake. Like the first one, I will be following Robert Hunt’s practicum, but unlike the first, I have a multitude of excellent build logs and books to supplement it and help guide me through the inevitable pitfalls that are sure to raise their ugly heads. Hopefully, based on this and my hard-earned experience with the Rattlesnake, it won’t take another half a lifetime to build.
Now for the obligatory part. Below is the kit box and contents. I won’t bore you with showing all the little packets that are stuffed in the box, that has been done very well by numerous other builders. I will state that in addition to what came with the kit, I purchased a few more items:
 
·        Robert Hunt’s practicum
·        Hobby Mill’s wood supplement package (based on Hunt’s practicum) *
·        Additional copper plate tape (as I understand it, the kit was a bit too frugal with their supply)
·        2 - 2½” x 2½” x ¾” genuine pieces of USS Constitution wood **
·        Medallion made from genuine USS Constitution copper plate. Not sure yet how or if it will be used.
 
* Wood package purchased before HobbyMills closed shop. The supplement package was derived by HobbyMills where Mr. Hunt made his substitutions in the practicum. It was not identified as a package that could be purchased in the practicum. I have the original price list which describes what the wood is being substituted for and where in the practicum it is being described. If anyone wants a copy of the supplement wood list, please send me a PM.
 
** Constitution wood was purchased from the museum just before the ship went into drydock, December 2014. I have since tried to get a larger size for the keel or nameplate but accordioning to popeye2sea (who as I understand it volunteers on the ship), the US Navy is withholding any more wood from the public for now for reasons unknown. The museum told me, maybe in the Spring sometime.
 
This will be my third attempt at constructing this model. The first attempt was done when I was a child building Revell’s small plastic model which I really botched. I hadn’t yet learned to read and follow instructions, but just dove into assembling the parts with expected results. My second attempt was as a young teenager and when the wounds of that failed build had waned, went a bit better. This time I got the larger plastic model.  I did follow instructions and even painted the parts but had absolutely no idea how a rigged ship worked let alone how the lines were attached or what they were for. It looked decent to my young ignorant eyes at the time. Both models met their demise at my hand with firecrackers; usual method of disposing such items
 
This time I expect a glorious finish…I hope.

Thanks Geoff, a very informative log! For those who do not want to search for the site, here is the link.
 
Jon

OK, I accept the challenge 8-).
 
This is from The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 - 1860. by James Lee  I hope it's clear enough to read.
Stunsails.pdf

I'm in awe!! I have never seen anyone make yards in multiple parts before. That is a nice bit of craftsmanship. Is there a reason you chose to take this route as opposed to making the yards in one piece? Having never made jackstay before, does the rod running the length of the yard pass through a very fine eyebolt?
 
Jonathan

I just found this "new" build log by Thrasher on Ships of Scale. He is dusting off a build that he's been working on and off for 10 years and is just starting the Bentinck shrouds. You might want to see what he is going to do.
 
Jon

Just remember, it's a model, not a miniature replicate. Do what you think works best for the look you want.  Good luck and have fun!
 
Jon

Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.

Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.

Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.

Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.

DAR - Because the hull is going to be painted, I think I have a simple solution. On the subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears. Add a little wood filler if needed and the smooth it out so the wood strakes blend and you can't see any creases. The paint will cover any evidence of the unevenness and it will disappear. Hope this helps.
 
Jon

DAR - Because the hull is going to be painted, I think I have a simple solution. On the subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears. Add a little wood filler if needed and the smooth it out so the wood strakes blend and you can't see any creases. The paint will cover any evidence of the unevenness and it will disappear. Hope this helps.
 
Jon

Wood filler was my best friend too!😁