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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

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    Minnesota, USA
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    Square rigged ships, Medieval and Roman armor, ancient siege engines, WWII machine guns and German infantry reenactment, adventure motorcycling

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  1. Model kits often leave details out of make simplifications. TRUST YOUR OWN RESEARCH. If, after comparing more than one book or model source, you find a feature that conflicts with the model instructions, the instructions are probably wrong. If your guns are displayed as cleared for action, then you should make the inhaul tackles and add them to you model. Kits occasionally have rigging errors that do not match the country of origin or time period correctly. You can ALWAYS find ways to add details missing from a kit. Part of the fun is super-detailing, and you get a finished result that l
  2. Because under different moisture conditions, wood warps, shrinks, or swells. It may be laid down with the proper shape when new, but if you want it to stay in position long term, they should be glued. Thin wood is particularly susceptible to this. Over time, having the planks anchored to each other will prevent cracks from appearing on the hull as it ages, with offsets of the plank edges appearing. If the planks are glued to each other, all stresses are shared by adjacent planks and the movement is also shared.
  3. The bowlines for the fore topsail are rigged. 2mm blocks are used. The bowlines run through a pair of blocks tied to the fore topmast stay near the middle of its overall length and belayed on the outboard most pins on the range pin rail below the bowsprit. The fore topsail rigging is now complete.
  4. Because of lack of documentation available, we know very little about the use of martnets or leechlines on topsails until after 1650. For the 1630's one might find leechlines, martnets, or neither. About than 1677, a French ship was documented as attaching its leechline blocks to the fore stay collar, so that it what I did. I places the leechlines in the front side of the topsail only. I borrowed a feature found on leechlines on the course sails, when leechlines are used. A scratch built sheave in a block of wood is attached to the front side of year yard, about 2/5 of the way out form ce
  5. Pictures below show the method I use to attach blocks to the clews on sails for the clewlines. The loops for the clews are rather small, and small 2.5mm blocks are used instead of the oversized 4mm blocks provided by Corel. Work on the fore topsail rigging progressed a lot today. The clewline, sheets and fore topsail braces were rigged. 1) Pass a loop of thread through the sail clew. 2) Take the loop of the thread and flip it over the bitter ends and cinch tight. The loop of the clew should extend out enough so that you still can tie the sheet line on later.
  6. I had to make a correction to the fore topgallant sheets. I mistakenly ran the sheets through blocks on the topsail yards located close to centerline, then down toward the deck. The topgallant sheet lines double as topsail lard lift lines, and re-routed through pennant blocks attached to the underside of the topmast top, then down toward the deck and their belaying pins. The picture below shows the starboard line in the corrected place. Since the lines were too short once re-routed, a length of line was spliced into the existing line by splitting the fibers, meshing them into the split fibers
  7. Reef points were added to fore topsail. One reef point is placed in the center of each sail panel. Very thin thread was used since the ship is small in scale, otherwise the reef points would appear as thick as the sheet lines. The idea was to make them appear in scale when viewed at a distance. A overhand knot was only used on the rear side of the sail, since a second knot, as used on full size reef points on the front side, it not necessary and would not be visible anyhow. Masking tape is used to hold the reef points pointed down as a small dab of watered down PVA is applied only to the point
  8. Thanks Louie! And hello to everyone else! I was surfing Craig's List today and found a half completed OLD Panart San Felipe for sale. I got it for $5.00 USD! Unfortunately the former owner is deceased, (that's stone dead for all you in Rio Linda, CA). I only had to drive 8 miles to pick up the model Lucky me. I made repairs to damage like a punctured an badly water stained deck and broken railings. Three decoration castings and all but one of the cannon trucks are missing, but the rest of the kit appears to be there. Too bad San Felipe was a fictional vessel. This vessel
  9. I was the 2nd Engineering Officer on the S.S. President Cleveland, not the passenger liner, but the C5-s-75a break bulk cargo ship. When built, it was launched as the S.S. American Mail. When I sailed that same ship as a Midshipman, I copied the General Arrangement blueprints and recently scanned them. Later the ship was sold to Sealift,. Inc and renamed the S.S. Cleveland. She was scrapped in 1996. If anyone is interested in the blueprints, let me know.
  10. The fore topgallant sail bowlines were rigged. Things are really getting crowded. It take literally hour to tie lines to rails and belaying pins using dental pics, needle nose pliers, and dabbing a tiny bit of glue every pass around a belaying pin so delicate that is you sneeze, you'll demolish the entire pin rack. These pins are slivers, 9mm Falkonet pins, the smallest made. So far I've broken about two dozen since the build started. Anyhow, the bowlines were made using 2mm blocks, also the smallest ones available from Falkonet, and the same ones I used to rig the cannon gun truck tackles. I
  11. Rigging continues. All the lines for the fore topgallant sail except the bowlines were rigged today. The steps are shown below for clarity. Tie the fore topgallant lift lines to the belaying pins symmetrically port and starboard on the forecastle rail. Run each fore topgallant lift line up through the tops on each side of the crosstree, then through two blocks, and tie off on the flagstaff. The topgallant lift lines are done. In preparation of rigging the bowlines for the sails on the foremast, four blocks were tied to the bowsprit just in front of the foremast stay line.
  12. I tried my hand at putting waves in one of the rayon flags. The flag was cut out and the edges applied with a very small amount of CA glue to prevent fraying. Dowels held with masking tape were used to create a wave pattern in the flag, and it was starched and dried. The result was adequate. Future flags may come out better with practice. I devised a way to tie a line to a rail with the coil hank all in one process. The steps are shown below. 1) Tie an overhand knot on a 4mm dowel.
  13. Thanks EJ! You're an inspiration for this build. Rigging of the spritsail was completed. The clewlines start at the yard, pass through the blocks on each clew, then are belayed to the pin rail beneath the bowsprit. Cleats were installed on the beakshead deck to tie the spritsail sheets to. The other ends of the sheets are attached to eyebolts on the hull, located just forward of the bow turrets. All the blocks used were 2mm blocks from Falkonet, because they rock. Work on the sprit topsail was next. Two 2mm blocks were tied to the sprit topsail yard in preparation for the cle
  14. The bowsprit area of the ship is where work today was concentrated. Lifts and braces were rigged on the sprit sail and sprit topsail yardarms. The Corel instructions will be used for rigging and belaying brace lines and lifts for all the sails. For sheets, clewlines, and martnets, Costrulamo insieme il modello de La Couronne; Vascello francese del 1636 will be used to for rigging and belaying all lines which manipulate the sails. Hopefully it will be possible to blend the two sources together, and add cleats, belaying pins, and other features required to belay these additional lines without ha
  15. The position of the spritsail yard was moved forward of the foremast stay. This correction will provide more room between the figurehead and the spritsail. Some mistakes can be corrected with simple adjustments. The spritsail must not rub on the figurehead.
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