Erik Nyren

More pictures from my HMS Pandora

A lot of dryfitting, small adjustments more dryfitting some paint adding some more LED to get a more even illumination of the stern fascia. Oh nad a little more dryfitting of cource and finally I have one side of the galleries almost finished.

Jigsawpussle of the day
 
I used parts of the assembly to ensure that the stern fascia was pinned down centered and at the correct hight.
 
The rest of the pictures is dryfitting no glue so far. I looks ok and the window fascias seems to fit good enough although some tapering will be nessecary.
 
Of to the other side
 
Erik

Thats true popeye
 
Got some sanding done on her this weekend, a bit of filler on the bow as I felt the lower part of the bow was not bulky enough. First planking is smooth enough to recieve a second planking however first I have to assemble the galleries. The galleries are a part of this model that I have been looking forward to do so next weekend will be a lot of fun.
 
Erik

Lights still work
 
If anything happens to theese buggers now it will be next to impossible to fix. hold your thumbs 

So far five strakes in place, the wood is quite soft and easily bent. Sanding is also pretty easy, having the boxwood of my Kingfisher kit in mind this is like cutting through butter. Sanding the gunport patterns that are made of plywood now thats another story..... Lets all give thanks to the man/woman who invented the dremel tool.
 
Regards
Erik

Working on the bow
Pic 12 shows how I after soaking the plank let it run along the previous planking marking a few referencepoints on both the plank to be and the plank already fitted.
Pic 13 shows how I took messurements at each referencepoint using the dividers and transfering them to the plank creating a line along which the plank needs to be tapered. Ingenious is it not 
 
Pic 14: The final cut   (Yes I am a Pink Floyd fan)

Stage one is to decide how may strakes I want to use in one go, in this case I chose 5 strakes, holding the m up midship and drawing a line along the lowest one I get a battenline where 5 strakes will fit midships....... So far so good.......
 
I then place a strake along this line and letting it run naturally along the hull fore and aft, drawing a line above I  get a natural flow of the strake which is what I´m looking for, I want to put a minimum of stress to the plank when glued to the ship as this helps to keep the keel straight and aids to the overall strength of the hull.
 
More to come ( I´ll be going on for a while

Hello
 
A few words on how I use a set of proportional dividers during planking, I hope some of you can find it useful
 
I´m planking HMS Victory and in doing so I´m putting my set of proportional dividers to good use. This tool is not by any meens absolutely nessecary to have if your starting out on your first few kits, but as one gets further in to the hobby one finds that this Little engenious tool has many uses around the ship, one beeing aiding in those precarious tapering jobs during planking.
 
When I first started to look for a set of dividers I noticed that they where not that easy to come by in Sweden and that turned out to be a story in it self. I cant remember how, but I got in contact with a violin builder in germany by the age of 80-something. He apparently also made proportional dividers of different sizes. Now I had little knowledge about theese thingies and what size I needed for my models. This man simply sent me a few samples of his dividers in different sizes stating. - Pay for the one you want and send the rest back !!! So I did just that. You don´t find that kind of confidence and trust in people often theese days, in the years to come I recieved a christmastcard from him every year as probably most of his violincostumers.
 
So what does the dividers do, originaly designed to divide circles in equal parts this tool serves by dividing a sertain distance into equal parts depending on how you set them. I have set the  dividers in the Picture to 3 meaning that the smaller pointers will show exactly 1/3 of the distance between the larger ones.
 
Lets get ito it

And the final result, today serving as a church ship in the chapel of the Swedish Camp Northen Light in Afghanistan

A Word on cutting. My kit is old meaning dry wood that splinters ieasily and much care has to be taken not to have a bladerunner ( yep fan of the Movie too) with the grain of the planks.
 
I use a steel ruler as a supportbast for the plank, a small one above to mark the cutting line and last a wood block to hold the plank in place so that it does not move with the blade.
Many lite strokes with the blade is the trick. Never ever try to cut through the plank in one go, it will be a mess, I assure you.
 
And the last one...well that would be me wearing all the binocular aid I need to make a decent job on planking.
 
I hope this will be of use to some of you, comments, questions, ideas and opinions are of cource wellcome.
 
Best regards
Erik

Still some sanding, filling and final touches needs to be done

Working on the bow
Pic 12 shows how I after soaking the plank let it run along the previous planking marking a few referencepoints on both the plank to be and the plank already fitted.
Pic 13 shows how I took messurements at each referencepoint using the dividers and transfering them to the plank creating a line along which the plank needs to be tapered. Ingenious is it not 
 
Pic 14: The final cut   (Yes I am a Pink Floyd fan)

Stage one is to decide how may strakes I want to use in one go, in this case I chose 5 strakes, holding the m up midship and drawing a line along the lowest one I get a battenline where 5 strakes will fit midships....... So far so good.......
 
I then place a strake along this line and letting it run naturally along the hull fore and aft, drawing a line above I  get a natural flow of the strake which is what I´m looking for, I want to put a minimum of stress to the plank when glued to the ship as this helps to keep the keel straight and aids to the overall strength of the hull.
 
More to come ( I´ll be going on for a while

Hello
 
A few words on how I use a set of proportional dividers during planking, I hope some of you can find it useful
 
I´m planking HMS Victory and in doing so I´m putting my set of proportional dividers to good use. This tool is not by any meens absolutely nessecary to have if your starting out on your first few kits, but as one gets further in to the hobby one finds that this Little engenious tool has many uses around the ship, one beeing aiding in those precarious tapering jobs during planking.
 
When I first started to look for a set of dividers I noticed that they where not that easy to come by in Sweden and that turned out to be a story in it self. I cant remember how, but I got in contact with a violin builder in germany by the age of 80-something. He apparently also made proportional dividers of different sizes. Now I had little knowledge about theese thingies and what size I needed for my models. This man simply sent me a few samples of his dividers in different sizes stating. - Pay for the one you want and send the rest back !!! So I did just that. You don´t find that kind of confidence and trust in people often theese days, in the years to come I recieved a christmastcard from him every year as probably most of his violincostumers.
 
So what does the dividers do, originaly designed to divide circles in equal parts this tool serves by dividing a sertain distance into equal parts depending on how you set them. I have set the  dividers in the Picture to 3 meaning that the smaller pointers will show exactly 1/3 of the distance between the larger ones.
 
Lets get ito it

Still some sanding, filling and final touches needs to be done

Working on the bow
Pic 12 shows how I after soaking the plank let it run along the previous planking marking a few referencepoints on both the plank to be and the plank already fitted.
Pic 13 shows how I took messurements at each referencepoint using the dividers and transfering them to the plank creating a line along which the plank needs to be tapered. Ingenious is it not 
 
Pic 14: The final cut   (Yes I am a Pink Floyd fan)

I have posted a decription of how I use my proportional dividers during planking of HMS Victory. As I figured more builders than HMS Victory folks could be interrested I posted in the "Building, framing, planking" section of the "Ship modeling tips, techniques and research" section of the forums.
 
I would put a link in but I cant get it to work
 
Regards
Erik

Now, Before we go on to the stealer lets dive a little deeper into the magic of the dividers. It would seem that the dividers weakness is also their strength.
As pic 20 shows the problem is that the two pointers of the dividers messures a straigt line between them...duh !!
The hull of a ship is pretty much never a straight line (well those stealthy things are to a sertain degree but thats another story)
this meens that there will be a inbuilt fault in my messurements represented by the curve of the hull. The more planks I use between the battenlines the more apparent this fault will be.
 
Pic 21 shows in an exaggerated way how the dividers, divide a straight line however I´m implementing the messurement to a curved surface.....Problem?
 
THE MAGIC HAPPENS
 
Pic 23: The work around, after I have glued the first plank represented by the grey area on the upper left in the picture. I reset the dividers to 4 representing the four planks left to do. Now the instrument will devide the area left between the first plank layed and the battenline into four equal parts showing the need of tapering at each Point messured.  
 
Pic 24: The greyed areas show the planks, The straight line by the number 5-2 represent the line between the pointers of the dividers and you can clearly see how theres a problem by nr5, however the problem is compensated when the dividers are reset in correspondance to the plank I´m working on 5-1 and as I´m closing in on nr 2 the problem is all but gone.
 
And thats the magic of the dividers. Only remember to set them correctly.
 
Now on to that stealer. 

The stealer was tapered from the start where it needs to be 2,5mm (half of its original width) to the Point where the natural flow of the plank below has a distance of 5mm to the plank layed above not counting the stealer to be of cource.
 
After tapering the stealer was glued to the ship.
 
The dividers are then set to 4, representing the four planks still to go in this run.
 
Messurements and tapering are done in the same manner although the dividers are set to 4 and some tapering has to be done to accomodate the stealer. At the same point (or there about) as the stealer reaches 5mm the plank below should reach 5mm. To much tapering kind of eats away on the effect of the stealer although that can be adjusted later if it happens.

Still some sanding, filling and final touches needs to be done

A Word on cutting. My kit is old meaning dry wood that splinters ieasily and much care has to be taken not to have a bladerunner ( yep fan of the Movie too) with the grain of the planks.
 
I use a steel ruler as a supportbast for the plank, a small one above to mark the cutting line and last a wood block to hold the plank in place so that it does not move with the blade.
Many lite strokes with the blade is the trick. Never ever try to cut through the plank in one go, it will be a mess, I assure you.
 
And the last one...well that would be me wearing all the binocular aid I need to make a decent job on planking.
 
I hope this will be of use to some of you, comments, questions, ideas and opinions are of cource wellcome.
 
Best regards
Erik

Pic 15-17 shows the plank fit to the ship and pinned. I prefere to use pins if I can as they enable me to start on the next plank immediately without any clamps getting in the way. Note that this ship will be filled and paited so the pinholes will disappear. If I´m working on a model displaying the natural wood I would use a different way to secure the planks
 
 

Stage one is to decide how may strakes I want to use in one go, in this case I chose 5 strakes, holding the m up midship and drawing a line along the lowest one I get a battenline where 5 strakes will fit midships....... So far so good.......
 
I then place a strake along this line and letting it run naturally along the hull fore and aft, drawing a line above I  get a natural flow of the strake which is what I´m looking for, I want to put a minimum of stress to the plank when glued to the ship as this helps to keep the keel straight and aids to the overall strength of the hull.
 
More to come ( I´ll be going on for a while

Thanks
 
Rich I had a look at your log. your doing great, If your actually considering LEDs I´m afraid you are a bit far gone so I would advice against it.
It takes a bit of adjustments to accomodate the wiring and if that meens you have to rip things like the galleries up. Don´t go there, and save the idea for your next project. This is my first time using LED although I did som experiments on a Billing Vasa that rests in my shop. It takes a bit of planning ahead but it´s not that hard if one has some soldering skills.
 
Off to the other side of the galleries
 
Regards
Erik