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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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2,345 profile views
  1. Hi Allen,top of this page,planking tutorials etc. All you wish to know is there. Normally the Wales are fitted first. Dave
  2. Hi,you must have got the last one. Just checked and the item is out of stock according to their page. Dave.
  3. Hi Bill,glad to hear all is well with you. I had a treble 7 years ago,still alive and kicking. Dave
  4. Hi Ron,if you wish to add the buntlines just put a knot in the line and pull it up to the block. Job done,this can be seen on contempory models which have no sails fitted. This was also done for the leech lines. Dave
  5. I've not been on the forum for 2 days. When I click on the like button tonight on a post 4 smileys pop out,really ! What is the purpose of that ? Silly idea in my view otherwise no complaints. Dave
  6. Very nice planking Maurice,bet you're happy with that hurdle cleared. I've started milling Buxus for my Speedwell planking above the wales,much still to do there,especially the short ones between the sweep and gun ports. Still,it keeps me out of mischief Keep up the good work, Dave
  7. Hi Alan,good luck with your eye op tomorrow,I had both eyes done 2 years past February. What a difference,I'd no idea I had cataracts,just thought it was old age Dave
  8. Hi RussR,the Proxxon 50mm blade #28020 has 100 teeth and is 0,5mm thick. It will do the job perfectly,I use one for plank cutting everytime. Dave
  9. Hi Mark,I've been following your build since you started.Exemplary carpentry and dedication indeed. A little fix you may find useful when drilling hawse holes. Drill about 2/3 of the diameter required then open out the holes using a tapered reamer of the req size then ream from the other end.Then run a straight reamer through to remove the slight constriction in the holes centre. You wont get any tearout and really smooth hawse holes,no filing marks. Just a thought,anyway it worked for me. Dave
  10. Good evening Maurice,exemplary work from you. Kit bashing is certainly your forte. Just a thought but I'm a bit surprised that you didn't think of using braided steel wire as used for fishing traces for your tyes. It comes in various sizes/diameters relative to breaking strain and is quite flexible. Looking fwd to following your next little masterpiece. Regards, Dave
  11. Dave,I've no idea what dockers are but I assume they're incontinence pads/nappies (diapers) for elderly gentlemen with a problem. Sorry,couldn't resist 😁😁 Dave
  12. Very very nice work Davy,you're very talented. Love your "baccy tin" art,Old Holborn or Golden Virginia ? Dave
  13. Hi Voyageur, The top blade is for cutting softwood,hardwood and plastics. It's ok and cuts fast and well,downside it tends to leave toothmarks. The second is for cutting nonferrous metals,softwood,hardwood,chipboard,plastics and glassfibre items etc. Can't comment as I don't have this one. The last one cuts the same items as the previous. I use this for cutting Pearwood and European Boxwood,leaves a nice smooth finish. Hope this answers your question. Dave
  14. Good evening Maurice,very nice mods you've made to improve your model. Super job. Just catching up as I'd lost your build due to this new system,just my opinion but I think the old system was better,now I have to jump from century to century to find the builds I follow. C'est la vie. Kind regards, Dave
  15. So sorry to hear of this. RIP Danny and thank you for all you did for the Forum members. Dave.
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