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davyboy

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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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  1. davyboy
    Very nice planking Maurice,bet you're happy with that hurdle cleared. I've started milling Buxus for my Speedwell planking above the wales,much still to do there,especially the short ones between the sweep and gun ports. Still,it keeps me out of mischief Keep up the good work, Dave
  2.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: Muirneag 1903 by Blue Ensign – 1:64 scale - A Scottish Zulu Fishing Boat Based on the Vanguard Models Zulu Kit
  3.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: La Niña by CRI-CRI - scale 1/48 - ship of Cristoforo Colombo - 1492
  4.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: La Niña by CRI-CRI - scale 1/48 - ship of Cristoforo Colombo - 1492
  5.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
  6.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: Suddenly we are older
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  8.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Enterprise by Kevin - CAF - 1/48 - August 2020
  9.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
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  11.    davyboy reacted to a post in a topic: Ship paintings
  12.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74 gun 3rd Rate Man of War, Arrogant Class
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  15. davyboy
    Hi Alan,good luck with your eye op tomorrow,I had both eyes done 2 years past February. What a difference,I'd no idea I had cataracts,just thought it was old age Dave
  16.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Suddenly we are older
  17.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Proxxon FET blade
  18. davyboy
    Hi RussR,the Proxxon 50mm blade #28020 has 100 teeth and is 0,5mm thick. It will do the job perfectly,I use one for plank cutting everytime. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Hi Mark,I've been following your build since you started.Exemplary carpentry and dedication indeed. A little fix you may find useful when drilling hawse holes. Drill about 2/3 of the diameter required then open out the holes using a tapered reamer of the req size then ream from the other end.Then run a straight reamer through to remove the slight constriction in the holes centre. You wont get any tearout and really smooth hawse holes,no filing marks. Just a thought,anyway it worked for me. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice,exemplary work from you. Kit bashing is certainly your forte. Just a thought but I'm a bit surprised that you didn't think of using braided steel wire as used for fishing traces for your tyes. It comes in various sizes/diameters relative to breaking strain and is quite flexible. Looking fwd to following your next little masterpiece. Regards, Dave
  21. davyboy
    Dave,I've no idea what dockers are but I assume they're incontinence pads/nappies (diapers) for elderly gentlemen with a problem. Sorry,couldn't resist 😁😁 Dave
  22. davyboy
    Very very nice work Davy,you're very talented. Love your "baccy tin" art,Old Holborn or Golden Virginia ? Dave
  23. davyboy
    Hi Voyageur, The top blade is for cutting softwood,hardwood and plastics. It's ok and cuts fast and well,downside it tends to leave toothmarks. The second is for cutting nonferrous metals,softwood,hardwood,chipboard,plastics and glassfibre items etc. Can't comment as I don't have this one. The last one cuts the same items as the previous. I use this for cutting Pearwood and European Boxwood,leaves a nice smooth finish. Hope this answers your question. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice,very nice mods you've made to improve your model. Super job. Just catching up as I'd lost your build due to this new system,just my opinion but I think the old system was better,now I have to jump from century to century to find the builds I follow. C'est la vie. Kind regards, Dave
  25. davyboy
    So sorry to hear of this. RIP Danny and thank you for all you did for the Forum members. Dave.
  26. davyboy
    Hi Jagger, I have the proxxon DH 40 thicknesser. A couple of answers for you. 1/10 of a mm,just under .004". Blades not sharpened they have cutting edges both sides. When blunt turn them,when that side is blunt change them,they only cost about $10 in your money. Access is fairly easy. I've had a little tearout probably due to grain orientation,cured that by turning the plank around. Can't comment on waste comparison as I don't have a thickness sander. For me the fact that virtually no dust produced (at least with Pear or European Boxwood) is a winner. Dave
  27. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice,looking good so far. I knew you couldn't resist a bit of kit bashing Keep up the good work. Dave
  28. davyboy
    Alan,Parrals or a Truss. Dave
  29. davyboy
    Hi Jim, FWIW,I have had warped 1/4" ply. What I did was draw a straight line on the build board,draw lines 1/2 the ply thickness either side of this line. Glued small wood blocks on these lines and slotted the ply in there then screwed angle brackets to the board at each end of the false keel to keep it vertical. Glued and clamped blocks between the bulkhead slots,next day a perfectly straight keel. No need to faff about wetting ,steaming etc which may not work anyway. Dave
  30. davyboy
    I had the same problem with a Cruiser kit I bought some years ago. Most of the walnut was rubbish,I just bought replacement wood from a modelshop here. My reasoning being I would maybe have been sent more of the same. After this I went into scratch building,once bitten twice shy so to speak and much more satisfying. Dave

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