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davyboy

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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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  1. Good evening B.E. Looking good as always. I had to wrap rope around my Tiller handle. Cracked the damn thing when trial fitting it into the rudder head,it glued up ok but I could see the join.so it got wrapped. Looks ok anyway. Would there have been a spectacle plate fitted or maybe not ? I haven't a clue,however I will fix a "chock"under the top hinge to prevent unshipping. I've served my anchor buoys and now will try to hopefully make a decent job of the ropework. Have a nice week. Dave
  2. Good evening B.E. Very well done indeed 👍 I'll bet you'll be glad when the last four are done regards, Dave
  3. Hi Stergious, I now see that pin #19 is shown on your deck rigging plan. However you had marked #19 as being just below the boom which I had assumed was a cleat. This can be seen as one of three on the Mizzen mast. The boom topping lift was doubled (clove hitched) around the boom as Petersson shows. Each side leads through blocks as he shows fitted with a tackle and belayed. I would suggest you fit eyebolts on the deck below pins #19,hook the tackle there and belay the hauling end of the tackle to the pins. Up to you. Dave
  4. Hi Stergious,rig your boom topping lift (L) as shown in Peterssons book. #19 is a cleat which I can see in your photo,there should be one on the other side of the mast also. The bottom end of the tackles on your plan appear to be hooked to eyebolts in the deck and NOT to the Mizzen channels as seen in Petersson. I expect where they are will be shown on your plan. Where your question mark is would be a good bet I would say. The blocks you marked A and B are fitted on each side of the boom. They are the boom sheet blocks,correctly shown aft of the cleats. Where these tackles are hooked and belayed should be on your rigging plans. Unfortunately Petersson shows a different arrangement. Hope this helps, Dave
  5. Hi Ferit, go back to page 3 on this the masting,rigging and sails section. The third thread down is the question I asked last October. 4 replies,1 diagram from Levers' book,a photo of an actual mast cap/truck and a photo of one of Doris's Ship model caps. Your two pics show the flag halliard going through a hole over the top of the mast cap then down through another hole. There should be a sheave fitted there,otherwise the flag halliard would be quickly worn out. Hopefully that will answer your question. Regards, Dave
  6. Good evening B.E. To coin a quotation from an old,old film. "You're a better man than I am Gunga Din". I did fit a key bolt but trying to make a key with chain to fit was a no go,for me anyway. Full marks for your one only another 11 guns to do,have fun Got the Catblocks stropped with the brass ok. I rivetted the hooks in,they look quite good after all. Made up my anchor cables and attached them to the Anchors. For info,you'll need about a half metre of rope for each one,that gives you enough length to play with. I'm still thinking about those Anchor Buoys,get round to it eventually. Serving them is not a problem it's the slings or rather the rope bands that the slings are attached to. Maybe some blackened copper or brass wire rings may work. Oh dear,decisions,decisions. BTW,were they painted,tarred or what ? Regards, Dave
  7. Ferit, Why would you make hanging blocks for this ? The flag halliard sheave is fitted into the Mast Cap. Just drill two holes close together in the mast cap running fore and aft to simulate a sheave. Dave
  8. Hi Tony,I agree with wefalks comment. This pattern of swivel gun called Falconets were at least in English navy ships obsolete by the early 17th century. I would imagine the French navy was much the same. Dave
  9. Hello Ferit, I asked this question last year. The general consensus of opinion was that the flag halliard sheave or sheaves usually run fore and aft either side of the mast. Dave
  10. Very nicely done B.E. I drilled through each carriage bed then placing the carriage centred at a gunport then drilled through into the deck. I wrote the position under each carriage Pt 1,Stbd 1 and so on to ensure the completed units went into the right place. I kicked the idea of using the copper wire stropping for the Catblocks into touch,it looked awful. Made some from brass sheet a la the drawing in Lees,much better looking,a PITA to make though. Also made the anchor buoys,having a real problem making up the rope work That's on hold for the time being. Have a nice weekend,regards. Dave
  11. Hi Stergious,it's standing rigging. That line is one of the topmast backstays. Dave
  12. Hi B.E. These chainplates were a bit of a pain to make,I had to remake a couple of mine which were not up to scratch. Yours look very good indeed. Will start making my cat blocks this weekend,I have some .020" x .040" copper wire. Just about the right size for the "iron strapping",I hope. regards, Dave
  13. Fred,dip the end of the thread in cyano glue then cut diagonaly across the glued part. You then have a needle point,goes through evey time. Dave
  14. It was +10C here today rising to +13C on Sunday. Weather forecast for the next week is warm and sunny Still some patches of snow on the high ground above 700 metres south of us,also to the north in southern Germany. Just hope it stays there. My sympathies with you chaps the other side of the Atlantic. Hope it thaws soon for you. Dave
  15. Hi B.E. I too thought that about the outboard steps so I just added a fourth. The 5/8" gap to the top rail is 2'6" in reality. They must have had very long legs considering the average height then was around 5'6" I've just finished making the stocks for my anchors. Went into Laverys' Arming and Fitting to find out the bolting patterns for them. Read a bit further on and he says that the round Crown Anchor and Arms shown on my copy of Chucks plan were not around in 1806. The first of this pattern was not made until 1813 and by 1815 only 25 had been made and 14 issued,probably starting with 1st rates. I also had a look in Steel but no mention of a new pattern there. Up to you of course,just thought I'd let you know. Regards, Dave

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