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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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  1. Good evening Maurice, That clinker planking is shaping up nicely,I'm certain the end result will be tip-top as normal. Had a problem with the aft bulkhead on Speedwell. The transom area has no instructions as to how one addresses the fashion pieces below the planked area. Just a note to round this area forward 4" (.084") Plenty of info for the POF version but not much use for the POB one. After some thought I made my fashion pieces from 3/16th pear and marked their placeon the bulkhead. Then I very carefully freehand milled out a 3/16th deep area to fit them. Worked fine and when the transom is planked and after fairing it will look very like the Cheerful transom. I hope Regards. Dave
  2. Hi Phil, Heres how I do it :- Get a suitable size of needle and pass one of your threads through the other. Then do the same by passing the other through the first. It should resemble then the lower example in your pic. The ends can then be served to the threads. If you're really fussy you can taper the fake splice by thinning the strands of the through piece to simulate the taper then serve and glue. Thats how I do cut splices on odd numbers of shrouds etc haven't had one pull apart yet. Hope this helps. Dave
  3. I made the mast hoops for my Cheerful by glueing turns of brown wrapping paper around a suitable diam dowel. When dry just pulled it off and cut off slices as required and gave them a couple of coats of matt laquer,job done and no messing about with wood shavings. I did of course wrap the dowel with some plastic first to prevent sticking. Dave
  4. Hi Bob,then the term "run out" here is being used incorrectly. I don't know if Y.T. did a check on the opposite face of the disc immediately after but any difference there (keeping the disc stationary) from his .004" measurement would indicate to me that :- (A) the motor is not aligned up horizontally square on it's mounting bracket/s. (B) the disc itself is slightly warped or badly machined. Anyway we're talking about a cheapo Chinese product here not a Byrnes sander Dave
  5. Well,I have always understood run-out is a radial measurement used to check out if shafts are turning straight and true in their bearings and not eccentrically. Did enough run-out checks on helicopter drive shafts etc in my working days. Fore and aft wobble on a sander disc has IMO nought to do with run-out. Just saying. Dave
  6. Good evening Maurice, Excellent mod's there. You always make significant improvements to your kits,great stuff. I've finished the keel and stem assy for Speedwell (all 18 pieces) except for some "fine tuning" of the stem taper. Hopefully I will shortly have it fixed to the spine then it's bulkheads glued in followed by the dreaded fairing later this week. Regards, Dave
  7. Hi Y.T. That's identical to the one I bought from a Lidl supermarket in Basel,except mine is green with another name. Cost me the princely sum of 34 Swiss francs. I'm very happy with it's performance at all speeds plus it's pretty quiet. If you are sanding very small pieces I recommend making a small table to temporarily clip on it's table as the gap from the disc is about 1/4" at 90°. I'm sure you wont be disappointed with it. Have fun making dust Dave
  8. Good evening Maurice, I like your idea of using the first planking as practice for the second planking,good thinking. Now that pic of your fish 'n' chips has made me very jealous,also the glass of Yorkshire Bitter I'm finding out there's much more to my Speedwell POB build than I first thought. The stem assy build up for instance has components of 3 different thicknesses,12",10" and 8",I now know that 2" at 1:48 is 0.041666",I called it 0.042" I'm not building for a Museum lol. My hat's off to folks that can build POF,that's way out of my depth I'm afraid. Regards, Dave
  9. Nice little anecdote Alan but he is a she. Sorry,just couldn't resist the temptation Dave
  10. Hello Pieter,it is also rather warm here too. Currently 38° where I live 5km east of France. Hot as Hades 👿 No ship modelling today. Dave
  11. Druxey,I assume (hopefully) that your research is for the second volume of your HMS Speedwell 1752. I wish you every success in this. I started on the POB version a couple of weeks ago. I've much to learn but looking forward to the challenge over the next few years. Dave
  12. Hi mispeltyoof. I built their Cruiser years ago,same problem. I made new masthead and bowsprit caps from the leftover material which the masthead caps were cut from. Did the same for the topmast caps,easy enough to cut a mortice in them. Be aware that the bowsprit cap should be perpendicular to the waterline not the bowsprit. (don't know if that's shown on your plans) The upper and lower faces should have the same angle as the bowsprit as should the hole for the jib boom Easy enough to cut a tenon on the bowsprit and a corresponding mortice in the cap. Don't forget to angle the bowsprit end to match,don't ask how I know that Dave
  13. I watched the documentary about this last Monday evening on a UK TV channel. Very interesting as was part 1 shown the previous week. They proved it was Greek by using a vacuum on the ROV to clear the sludge from the Rudder. The shape matched exactly that pictured on ancient Greek vases. They also found among other wrecks a sunken Roman ship laden to the "gunnels"with Amphorae. Dave
  14. Hi Bill,just for info. A Spanish galleon of 1588 would definitely not have chain anchor cables,they were a 19th century innovation. Dave
  15. Ghosts of the deep,ancient shipwrecks. This programme is on UK channel More 4 tonight at 9pm UK time. I watched the 1st part last week,very interesting about Black Sea shipwrecks including a 10th century wreck from the Byzantine era. May be of interest to members who can receive UK television. Dave

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