rcmdrvr

I have not been actively participating in this forum for quite a while.  I retired a few years ago and got involved in building plastic models and dioramas.  Decided to get back to wooden ship modelling a short while ago.  I rummaged around in my stash and recovered this model of the Cairo that I had purchased several years ago.  I am a bit of a Civil War history buff and have read a bit about the "naval" battles on the Mississippi river.  I started this model a couple of nights ago and find that while it appears simple (low parts count, solid hull, etc.) it is turning out to be a more challenging project than I thought.  I guess I should count myself lucky, however, as I have not run into any "Huh" parts yet.  The instructions are not as clear as I would like and photos of steps would be more helpful than sketches.  It also looks like fit is also going to be a challenge.  Us old plastic modelers expect perfect fit with no seams.  Finally, a list of terms would help.  I had no idea what a "casement" was until I looked it up on the internet.
 
While I did not expect to open a build log; I will if I can figure out how to do it.  Had a few logs a few years back so I should be able to work through it.  Cathead, as we move along; perhaps we can help each other and learn from our mistakes.  I will also send for those marked up plans.

I have not been actively participating in this forum for quite a while.  I retired a few years ago and got involved in building plastic models and dioramas.  Decided to get back to wooden ship modelling a short while ago.  I rummaged around in my stash and recovered this model of the Cairo that I had purchased several years ago.  I am a bit of a Civil War history buff and have read a bit about the "naval" battles on the Mississippi river.  I started this model a couple of nights ago and find that while it appears simple (low parts count, solid hull, etc.) it is turning out to be a more challenging project than I thought.  I guess I should count myself lucky, however, as I have not run into any "Huh" parts yet.  The instructions are not as clear as I would like and photos of steps would be more helpful than sketches.  It also looks like fit is also going to be a challenge.  Us old plastic modelers expect perfect fit with no seams.  Finally, a list of terms would help.  I had no idea what a "casement" was until I looked it up on the internet.
 
While I did not expect to open a build log; I will if I can figure out how to do it.  Had a few logs a few years back so I should be able to work through it.  Cathead, as we move along; perhaps we can help each other and learn from our mistakes.  I will also send for those marked up plans.

I have not been actively participating in this forum for quite a while.  I retired a few years ago and got involved in building plastic models and dioramas.  Decided to get back to wooden ship modelling a short while ago.  I rummaged around in my stash and recovered this model of the Cairo that I had purchased several years ago.  I am a bit of a Civil War history buff and have read a bit about the "naval" battles on the Mississippi river.  I started this model a couple of nights ago and find that while it appears simple (low parts count, solid hull, etc.) it is turning out to be a more challenging project than I thought.  I guess I should count myself lucky, however, as I have not run into any "Huh" parts yet.  The instructions are not as clear as I would like and photos of steps would be more helpful than sketches.  It also looks like fit is also going to be a challenge.  Us old plastic modelers expect perfect fit with no seams.  Finally, a list of terms would help.  I had no idea what a "casement" was until I looked it up on the internet.
 
While I did not expect to open a build log; I will if I can figure out how to do it.  Had a few logs a few years back so I should be able to work through it.  Cathead, as we move along; perhaps we can help each other and learn from our mistakes.  I will also send for those marked up plans.

I have not been actively participating in this forum for quite a while.  I retired a few years ago and got involved in building plastic models and dioramas.  Decided to get back to wooden ship modelling a short while ago.  I rummaged around in my stash and recovered this model of the Cairo that I had purchased several years ago.  I am a bit of a Civil War history buff and have read a bit about the "naval" battles on the Mississippi river.  I started this model a couple of nights ago and find that while it appears simple (low parts count, solid hull, etc.) it is turning out to be a more challenging project than I thought.  I guess I should count myself lucky, however, as I have not run into any "Huh" parts yet.  The instructions are not as clear as I would like and photos of steps would be more helpful than sketches.  It also looks like fit is also going to be a challenge.  Us old plastic modelers expect perfect fit with no seams.  Finally, a list of terms would help.  I had no idea what a "casement" was until I looked it up on the internet.
 
While I did not expect to open a build log; I will if I can figure out how to do it.  Had a few logs a few years back so I should be able to work through it.  Cathead, as we move along; perhaps we can help each other and learn from our mistakes.  I will also send for those marked up plans.

Continued with the planking of the rear and main decks.  This is a long model, measuring almost 24" in length and 6" wide.  My decking plank are 4 mm wide and 120mm long.  This is going to take quite a few evenings work.

Looking at the date of my last posting, it has been awhile.  I have continued work on the lower portion of the three masts and have got most of the shrouds installed.  I have also constructed the three crow's nests.  They have not been glued to anything yet.  I am now following the rigging diagrams provided with the instructions.  There are twelve "figures" showing the masts and rigging.  The "figures" are not very explanatory and I have never felt as lost in building a model but I plow on.  I have looked thru many a build log of Bounties and other build trying to get an idea of how to proceed.  While you experts might find errors galore, I think to a building outsider, they will be impressed.  I find rigging to be both frustration and rewarding.  Well.....I press on.

I have used all of the paints you list and all are very good.  The link you you gave lists conversions for Vallejo Model Color.  Vallejo Model Color generally does not like airbrushes (even when thinned) but is excellent for brushing.  Generally, you can airbrush most brands of acrylic paints (intended for plastic models) over other brands of acrylic paint as long as you have given the "base" coat ample time to dry.  If you are going to use any enamels or oil products for weathering, a clear coat over your paint base is recommended.

I have used all of the paints you list and all are very good.  The link you you gave lists conversions for Vallejo Model Color.  Vallejo Model Color generally does not like airbrushes (even when thinned) but is excellent for brushing.  Generally, you can airbrush most brands of acrylic paints (intended for plastic models) over other brands of acrylic paint as long as you have given the "base" coat ample time to dry.  If you are going to use any enamels or oil products for weathering, a clear coat over your paint base is recommended.

I have been away for a while.  Had to have a bit of surgery and that threw me behind at work.  I was able to continue working on the Willie, but did not take as many pictures of the progress as I should have.  I am enclosing a few pictures of the model which I have moved out of the workshop and into the house.
 
This was one of the most difficult modeling projects I have done.  The basic building of the hull, masts, etc. was not too difficult but working with the brass parts and the rigging, etc. I found to be very difficult.  While you get a lot of help by looking at the other builder's; you can also find the quality of their work somewhat intimidating.  Some of the other builders of the Willie are awesome.
 
Well I hope you find my build adequate.  I really enjoyed the Willie and recommend it as a first build......it has a bit of everything.  I will be starting a new build soon.....just purchased the Sanson.

I have used all of the paints you list and all are very good.  The link you you gave lists conversions for Vallejo Model Color.  Vallejo Model Color generally does not like airbrushes (even when thinned) but is excellent for brushing.  Generally, you can airbrush most brands of acrylic paints (intended for plastic models) over other brands of acrylic paint as long as you have given the "base" coat ample time to dry.  If you are going to use any enamels or oil products for weathering, a clear coat over your paint base is recommended.

I have used all of the paints you list and all are very good.  The link you you gave lists conversions for Vallejo Model Color.  Vallejo Model Color generally does not like airbrushes (even when thinned) but is excellent for brushing.  Generally, you can airbrush most brands of acrylic paints (intended for plastic models) over other brands of acrylic paint as long as you have given the "base" coat ample time to dry.  If you are going to use any enamels or oil products for weathering, a clear coat over your paint base is recommended.

There were a lot of small details that I failed to photograph; but I have declared the Sanson completed.  I built a stand out of some scrap lumber.  My photography is not very good but here is a few photos of the completed model.

I guess that I am not the best build log producer.  I have noticed that it has been quite a while since I last posted.  I continue with the task of rigging.  Wow!  Rigging has turned out to be a much more difficult task than I ever imagined.  You can spend several hours with cords, threads and tweezers; only to find you have built a single yard.
 
One of the first tasks I had to play with was tapering yards.  I tried multiple ideas that resulted in broken dowels all over the shop.  Finally, I found if I put the dowel in my hand drill and then slowly passed the end of the yard over my belt sander (affixed to the work bench) I could carefully taper the ends.  Not as exact as a lathe method but cheaper (I don't own a lathe).  Only a few dollars in shattered dowels.
 
The actual rigging is not difficult but tedious.  One problem I have not solved is getting a very sore back as I lean over the model for hours carefully threading and tying knots.  Looked on the internet for adjustable height tables but WOW are they ever costly.  Any solutions out there.
 
I have to admit to a mortal sin of ship building.  I have resorted to using CA to set the knots.  It does cause the ropes to become stiff, but it allows me to work on without knots unraveling.  I can also use simpler knots. 
 
I certainly have not been able to re-create the work of some of the building artists on this site, but I am happy and proud with my result.  Perhaps as my modeling skills develop I will be able to seize, tie and wrap with the best.
 
I have also had photography issues.  My shop is very small and now crowded with tools, work tables and now a model that is much larger than I anticipated.  I now find it very hard to take photos of the model.  I finally dragged it outside and photographed it against my white garage door.  Not great but I think you can see my work.  Here are the photos:

Well this was a productive weekend.  Able to get the basic rigging on the lower portions of the fore, main and mizzen mast.  As mentioned before, I am a bit lost, but forging forward.
 

Looking at the date of my last posting, it has been awhile.  I have continued work on the lower portion of the three masts and have got most of the shrouds installed.  I have also constructed the three crow's nests.  They have not been glued to anything yet.  I am now following the rigging diagrams provided with the instructions.  There are twelve "figures" showing the masts and rigging.  The "figures" are not very explanatory and I have never felt as lost in building a model but I plow on.  I have looked thru many a build log of Bounties and other build trying to get an idea of how to proceed.  While you experts might find errors galore, I think to a building outsider, they will be impressed.  I find rigging to be both frustration and rewarding.  Well.....I press on.

Continue to work on rigging.  I find I am spending a lot of time looking over plans and having to "guess" which block to attach where.  I have several sets of blocks that look the same.  I think I am making progress but certainly not performing at the level many other builders at this site do.  On the other side of the coin, wow, is this a learning experience.  First, I am trying out new skills.  I have not often taken on a project where I have a clip holding "ropes" between my lips, tweezers and other clamps in my hands and wishing I had two more appendages to hold more.  Second, I am quite taken by the engineering feats these ships were.  I am beginning to see how these ship's masts were held together.  While here are some shots of my work:

After the basic mast assembly I began work on the Dead Eyes.  Manufacturing the chains connecting the dead eyes to the hull were time consuming.  A used nails hammered into a block of wood as a bending jig.  Worked pretty well.  I have got to research a way to blacken brass and silver solder.  The chemistry described on this sight is not available locally (and I live in LA!).  I guess I will have to import something from the internet.

I spent the last week or so assembling the masts.  The books recommended by Captain Poison helped.  My tapering is a bit crude.  I have to place the dowels in a drill motor clamped in a vice, hold the free end of the dowel between two sanding blocks.  I am using 60 grit to shape the masts.
 
I ran out of dowel before I ran out of masts.  I will have to purchase some walnut doweling to produce the bowspirit.  I think one of the local woodworking stores will carry this.
 
I had to guess which parts created the crow's nest platforms.  I think I will be OK.
 
The instructions do not lend any hints as to the order of rigging.  I would assume that assembly and mounting of the masts is early in the process.

Completed.  After three month of work I declared the project completed.  I know that this has not been a detailed log of construction steps but I am pround that I brought this log to its completion.  If anyone has any questions, please feel free to send me email.
 
To any one thinking of building this kit.  The die cut parts fit.  The wood is in good shape (but they have it measured down to the last inch so be careful with your cuts).  When done it makes a really neat conversation piece.

The following photos are of the installation of the aft lower decking.  Like the forward decking it is constructed by planking 1/16" ply with 1/64" basswood strips.  I am reasonably satisfied with the look of the decking with its caulking and nail holes.  The deck is epoxied to the cross beams.  The final photo is of the cross beams being laid for the next deck.

Impressed with painting on figure models.  

I got a little upset about this log being hijacked.  Perhaps I over-reacted.  I will continue posting in hopes of some constructive comments.  I have continued with deck equipment and structures.  I round into difficulty that many of the dark (walnut) trim of the buildings crumbled when I tried to remove from die cut sheets.  Had to manually reconstruct many of them.  I enjoy working on deck stuff and there are plenty of it to be constructed in this model.
 
Here is are some photo graphs that show the model stern to bow.  Tried to get in close with the camera so you can see some of the detail:

Completed basic planking so now to add bulwarks.

With the deck planking almost completed (I only have to simulate the tree nails); I move on the hull planking.  The wood provided has a cross grain at about 30 degrees so it wants to splinter when bent.  I am soaking for about an hour which gives me about 20 minutes work time.  Since the hull will be painted and coppered; the planking does not have to be pretty.....just shaped correctly and smooth.  I am using a CA gel to affix to the bulkheads.

Impressed with painting on figure models.