Siggi52
-
Posts
985 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Siggi52
-
Hello, so, the cannons are ready. Very handy in this case is my dock. I could lay the Dragon at here side Thank you Gary for the efforts to look for the rope dimension. Next thing would be, to build all the staff used around the cannons, like buckets, rammers.. ect. The captain was very pleased with the work and I hope he will spend a drink this evening Regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 17
-
-
Hello, I have a question about the rigging of the canons. I made the frapping at this cannon with the rest of the tackle rope, or was that an extra, thinner rope like that for the muzzle lashing? Best regards, Siggi
-
Hi Gary, yes it's the viewpoint, of course. I learned, that when I'm looking from the right ore left, it looks every time different. Then I made photos and then I could see what is wrong. It took me also with my Dragon several starts to get the right angle. And the windows I changed, I think three times! The last two pictures looking really better. I would also wait with the galleries until the whole planking is ready. I made it so. Then you could see where the sheer lines are running. Ore mark them now with a pencil. Best regards, Siggi
-
Hello Gary, great work, I love to see your ship in progress and admire your stamina to build it. I'm now also engaged with the 32 pounders and happy that I have only 5 of them. When I see your pictures I do not know if it is only the perspective or are the rails not parallel to each other. It looks as if they divided to the front. When I remember Goodwin right and look at the plans, the rails are running with the sheer of the outside of the ship, not the decks. The red lines are the decks. It's the draught or the Dragon. Best regards, Siggi
-
Hello, this week I didn't work at the canons as I should, but made the gratings for the upper gun deck and quarter deck. When building the deck beams for the upper gun deck, I recognized that the grating have a light taper. The whole time I thought about it and then I started to solve that problem. The result are tapered gratings, but is war a long way. The problem is to saw at a light angle and for that I build a little help where I could change the angle and then saw the wood block in form of the grating. I'm sorry when this sound a little complicated, but in this case it's my english. I hope that the pictures will explain, where I have no words for I could adjust this steel, that looks approximately 1 mm over the surface, with the screws or at the top with paper at the left or right side of the steel. Then it is only testing with cheaper wood. When the right angle was found, than I took the boxwood block. The clamp is a stop, that I wouldn't saw in the screws. After that, I cut the spaces at a right angle between the bars, but not all the way through so that they would not fall apart. But that with my normal help for space. The next thing was to glue in the bars and make the repairs. I gave them a coat of lacquer for better gluing the parts together. The next thing was then only to grind the backside of and ready they are. Best regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 20
-
-
Hi Mark, it's in the NMM and on display. Regards, Siggi
-
Hello Gary, I'm too build my Dragon mainly from books and what I found in the internet. This forum and also your Alfred was a great help. It's also from here in Germany not just a trip to London to see the models. But we are here to help each other and that is good. My main source is the book „The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850“ by Peter Goodwin. ISBN 0-87021-016-5. Regards, Siggi
-
Good morning, unfortunately I have not so much pictures from the port side, the starboard side was nearer tho the glas and because I'm more interested in the stern part of the ship, I have mostly pictures of that part of the model. I hope I could help you with the pictures, because the times before your Alfred was a great help for me. It's a great model, I like it very much. Best regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 20
-
-
Hello all together, thank you for your responses. I think I fasten the lids like version 2. To your question, Jason. I made all the carvings with a knife, scalpel and small chisels for carving. No dental machines! The colures are mostly from Humbrol Enamel. But all are self mixed. The red is No 153 with a lot of brown 100, the blue is No 96 with something I do not remember. May be white? And Robin, I think I will make a small paneling between the spirketting and the deck clamp. Yesterday when I was looking through my pictures, I found some of the Egmond, build by John Franklin where you could see that he build also a paneling. It's hard to see, but it is there. I tried several pictures, but they are all darker here then on my computer. Ok, it's not a contemporary build, but also the old masters did't build every time things you wouldn't see. And artist wouldn't paint things who are not there. I think they know these ships and know what they do. Regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 16
-
-
-
Hello Mark, thank you for your efforts, the ropes to open the lids are not the problem. They are overhead with a tackle. I mean the ropes to hold the lid shut. Version 1 or 2? Regards, Siggi
-
Hello Mark, I made a picture for you and extra large. I hope it is what you liked to see. At the moment I'm waiting that the varnish of the deck will dry, before I start with the Bolts for the canons. Best wishes, Siggi
-
Hello, thank you all for the kind comments. At the moment I'm working at the gun deck. The beams for the upper gun deck are ready, the lodging knees installed and all is painted. The hanging knees following step by step when I install the beam permanently. But before I come to that, I have a question about how where the port lids secured? I couldn't find any hint about that. Did they have an own loop bolt (1) or where they just fastened to the ring bolt for the breeching, (2) what I would prefer? Kind regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 15
-
-
Good morning, first, many thanks for the kind comments about my work. To answer your question Christian, with a tiny brush and lots of patience. I use Humbrol Enamel brand paint and a 10/0 brush with synthetic hair. It's more rigid then marten hair and you could control the brush better. After I had painted the word Dragon the second time, I got cooler and from that time on it works fine. Regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 17
-
-
-
The next thing is the gun deck. That is now real time. The beams of the upper gun deck are only for get them ready when needed. I hope you enjoy the pictures. Regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 25
-
-
But now it comes. The thing I had the most respect for, the carvings. That was after my visit of London. I saw at the British Museum carvings, after that I thought that I could carve 3 time larger figures blind ;-) Here you can see also that the color of the hull changed. Most of the gold and yellow is gone. To the stern carvings I have to explain, some know them already from the so called Thunderer. I think that this model is the Dragon. Both ships where build at Deptford and launched 1760. From the stern carvings I would say, that this are Dragons and there is the batch of the Prince of Wales. At those times the later Georg III. Wales has a lot to do with Dragons in there mythology, the red and white one. And the draughts of the Dragon are nearer to the model than the draughts of the Thunderer.
- 451 replies
-
- 39
-
-
-
The next pictures are from the real beginning. I started with a model of the model, to get the feeling. Then I cut the frames in paper and build a shipyard. When the keel was installed, the Captain fired a canon. After all frames ready, he fired three canon and I had a brandy!
- 451 replies
-
- 25
-
-
Hello everyone, after I had so much positiv response about the pictures of my model in the gallery, I decided to start a blog about this ship. About the Dragon is to say, it was a third rate ship, designed by Thomas Slade and build at Deptford. Launched 4.3.1760 and sold 1784. It is not the first ship model I have build, but the first 18th century and framed model. A friend told me about the Bellona and I'm interested to learn more about these ships. My first name is Siegfried and that name is program, Siegfried was the most famos dragon fighter here in Germany, or the only? So I would build the Dragon. I ordered the plans from the NMM and a lot of books from everywhere. Then I started learning. Because the whole ship would be too large in 1:48, I decided to build only the stern part, from the 10th frame backwards. After 3 month I started with the model. That was in the winter of 2011/12. In 2012 a friend of mine was in London and I asked him to take pictures from the models at the NMM. That was a great thing and helped me a lot. In 2013 I visited the NMM and the shipyard at Chatham. Here I saw the Superb, the third ship of the Bellona class. That visit changed a lot, you will see it in the pictures. I changed mostly the color of the hull. I will post the first pictures in a fast pass, to get update with the actual level of work. And please excuse my english. Regards, Siggi
- 451 replies
-
- 35
-
-
I forget to mention that the two plans do not match each other. What I learned the hard way was, that as an example the decks have a different high! So may be there are other differences. Siggi
-
Mark, that was the plan for the inboard profile I posted. I posted that plan, because the plan you posted looked similar. The first picture I send now will explain fore witch ships that plan was used also. The second picture are the writings at this plan. Sorry I could't read it. The third picture is the from the sheer plan. That is the plan for only the Dragon and no other ship. May be that plan is better for your research. Regards, Siggi
-
Why shod you wait, I made a screen shot of the plan. It's late here ;-) Siggi
-
Hello Mark, I looked at the plan, in color and it is really in color there. Wait until you get plan from me. That plan was used for 27 or more ships! Greetings, Siggi
Our Emblem ®
