Dilbert55

Incredible, also thought the first shot was a photo. 

Incredible, also thought the first shot was a photo. 

Maybe it's due to 3D rendering and the paint job but with not much wood visible it looks a bit plastic, is this intentional?

Thank you for your comments.
 
All the following photos are from the little action camera:

When I bought a house, I had 2 choices: buy a big one or buy a small one with tools. I do not have a big house... so storage is important and it takes many chest with many drawers. It is preferable to have many low drawers than big high drawers because if you store just a few tools in a big drawer, you can lose easily more than the half of the volume of the drawer.
 
In the workshop, the big tools are close to the walls because they do not move. The others are on wheels and they can move as needed. Like a chameleon, the workshop has many colors. It can be transformed in few minutes in different kind of spaces: workshop for wood or metal, photography studio, home theater. This room also makes a very good studio to listen music, concrete walls, insulated tiles on the ceiling and a rubber floor of 3/4 inch thick. The beauty of this floor is that I can drop a knife on the floor without damaging the cutting edge.
 
The most important tool for me is the height adjustable electric table. Combine with the multi position vise, it makes a very good combination to position the part you work. Having the part at the good height and in the good angle... can make the difference.
 
 
And a few photos: on one, there is a motor with a phase converter. It allows you to use a 3 phase motor with 240 volts to feed the precision lathe and the surface grinder. In a drawer, we see all kinds of metal blocks made by the surface grinder which works with a precision of 0,0001". Precision can be even greater, the most extreme I can measure with a dial indicator is 0,00005".
 
 

 
 
 


 
 


 
 

 
 

 

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

Je tire mon chapeau aussi, incredible work.

What goes well for yesterday photos set up, strangely it is easier to take deep inside photo without flash, only with LED lights.
Today's photos, again the key factor is  the LIGHTING more than the camera. For interior photos of today, a smaller camera was used.
 
Which of these camera will gives the better result:  a phone, or one action camera? Action camera is the good answer. I have been experimenting for years "small cameras". The first one was a Microsoft 1080p, up to the last one in 2020, a 4K Yi camera. Today the small camera used was a Go Pro. As with every camera, there is a learning curve, and I am still learning this one, but the results look like promising.

The plastic bellows of the scroll saw needed to be replace. It would have cost about $100 to replace it. I did not like that price, so I replaced it with an aquarium air pump.

The second deck has few wall. Here they are:

Mark, the last one are from a small action camera Go pro hero 9 with a standard lens, they also have another one that I did not try.
 
Camera is 1 thing, but not enough for the inside; lighting is also very important.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=photography+led+lighting&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
 
As an example, for around $100, you can have a decent LED lamp which compares to nothing as a standard working lamp. I learned to use these for photography and now I also use these to work. It is like trying to work on an height adjustable table. Ounce you tired it, you never go back on a standard 30 inch height table. Also you can see more details, details you would not see with an ordinary task lamp.
 
Finally, you can also take photo like the bell, lighting on the object only, and everything black around.

the bridge between the front and aft of the deck

Thank you or your comments but taking photos inside the model is very difficult to get the perfect LIGHTING. This morning, I tried another set of photos, still with different settings and still the results are not there... I am sorry I cannot get the correct lighting. The photos are done with a small camera action, half the cost of the Go pro. Does this camera would be better? I do not know. In this set, I tried to have less "orange color" in the photos and this is the results.

The easy way to make stairs:
 
1- ex for 7 steps we need to divide in 8 spaces
2-  cut 1 kerf for each steps
3- measure the angle of the stair by measuring the height and the width that the stair will occupy
4- cut the sides, 1 for each side
5- the thickness of the steps must be few thousands less the width of the saw blade, for easy assembly

There is a second oven on the ship. The pastry oven is intended for high ranks officer tables only. Before cooking the pastries, embers are placed on the floor tiles of the oven until the pastry oven is hot enough. The opening of the oven is on the port side. All that concerns the service of the meals for the officers takes place on port side under the forecastle. For this reason, a wall of planks separates the kitchen in 2.
 
The small oven weighs around 3500kg. The weight of the bread oven is 8000 kg. Around 150 kg of bread can be cook at the same time. The floor can be made of tiles or "oven earth"; clay soil mixture, limestone earth and sand.

I needed a model to prepare the lighting, so I took the boats

The work continues on the second fore deck. We have 3 ovens on this 74 guns: 1 for the bread on the first deck, and 2 on the second deck: 1 for the pastries and the last one for the kitchen.
 
To be homogeneous in their manufacture, the 3 were made with orange bricks. Emphasis was places on the different layers of the kitchen oven: plank, salt or layers of bricks, brick and sheet metal. Is it the salt or the brick which dissipates heat best, I do not know. As for the salt, we know that the salt can resist to the heat, by example in a recipe of salt crusted fish, but how the salt would resist to heat  in a long period of time is another question. We can guess it can resist, because if not, they would not have used it.

Presentation of the build, I would say, is as much important as the construction of the build. One of the things to do is to take sometimes to take photos. There are some basics rules to follow by examples when taking photos inside the model the photo must be well horizontally.  When taking photos, I try to take photos at the height of the human eye at the scale, this provide a more natural photos look. By contrast, photos taken too high do not look as well. This morning, I tried another series of photos.

Thank you Michael
 
 
 
But my photos are real stairs... In fact, one of the  the predefined goals for this build, is to be able to see inside the model ship. The first thing to get there; no deck planking; that is the easy part. trying to capture some photographs showing this, is a different approach. I am exploring 3 ways to look inside: from the top  at an angle between 30 and 45 degrees to try to see  multi level decks. Finding the perfect angle is not easy. Lastly photos inside the model with a small camera.
 
In fact, the inspiration probably came a long time ago, when I saw the 3D drawings of Boudriot in the 74 guns books which have many of these kinds of drawings which are "spectacular " to see.

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/196-hms-bellona-1760-by-sjsoane-scale-164-english-74-gun-as-designed/page/65/
 
We talked about this subject in  Mark logs and I also tried to think about this subject in a previous post.
The French practice was probably similar. The simplest solutions are often the best solutions.
Also, near the capstan, the tenon had a hinge, something like a door hinge of that time at the top of it.
Again, here is the photo of Giorgio who did a nice representation to show how these tenons were lifted.
 
On the previous photos, I did only the mortice in the top deck beam and nothing on the deck. The problem with this representation, it is more difficult to align vertically the tenon. Having a slot in the deck facilitates the positioning of the tenon. Also, the ramped tenon eliminate the need to use a jack.

Ok Mark, I erased them!
 
2020 objectives, first deck completed, and still 1 1/2 month to go.
This model is more oriented on carpentry, so no cannons will be install.
 
Parts for the first deck are glued.
As usual, 1 coat of tung oil us applied. On the previous models, I tried 2 and 3 coats, and I prefer the 1 coat application, just enough to accentuation the wood grain. At the opposite, too much tung oil will create a transparent thickness, a varnish look, and I do not want this effect.
 
Most of the photos are done with small camera Yi  4K.

photo 1 : post experiences; if the height of the post: - is finely adjusted, it is easy to install
                                                                                        - is too high, it needs great forces to install
 
Now, if we translate to the ship, I believe the same principles applies, for the height of the post. We often see metal rods at the each end of the post because this is an easy way to install on a model. I do not believe that this can apply in a full scale model. So, for today, my solution is to carefully adjust each post. No notches on the deck, but 1 under the beam. At full scale, a sledge hammer would be enough. All this is pure speculation, As usual, I do not know the answer, I just try to find the good angle of the problem.
 
photo 2: location of the posts; not at at the back because of the rudder assembly, not at the front because of the anchor cables, instead there is a beam to support some deck beams. In the middle, 2 sections with posts1 or 2 posts in some area, and few others: 3.
 
As usual, nothing is fix yet and the posts are still to be shaped. For now, only the height is fixed.

Construction of the bread oven and the entrance of the anchor cables in the hold.
 
On the drawing , we see the shape of the bricks. The assembly is made on a wood form.  All the holes are filled with wood putty made of saw dust and glue.
2 actions are done so that the glue does nit stick to the form: adding oil and car wax. Finally, the painting.
 
Here is how I think "the cage" could be done. Below the oven, we need 2 things so that the support of the oven does not burn. Just under the oven, there could be thin plates and or a brick thickness. In the bottom half of that support, it would be filled with sand to dissipate the heat.