Rudolf

hello
I am Mehmet from Turkey-Ankara
I have recently started building Ottoman Cargo Boat, I also have applied some weathering, will attach more photos as I progress. I would be glad to hear your suggestions
 
mehmet

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 125 – Helm
 
First, thank you, Bob.  Gross exaggeration, of course, but much appreciated nonetheless.
 
The term helm refers to all the equipment and structures associated with the rudder.  Unlike earlier ships where the wheel operated a tiller that turned the rudder by means of a system of ropes and sheaves, most ships of the clipper era used gear driven machinery to rotate the rudder.  It is most likely that Young America used a mechanism consisting of reversed thread worm gears that drove a collar at the top of the rudder post.  Gearing of this type had more mechanical advantage and resisted reverse forces generated by pressure on the rudder.  Wheels could therefore be single and smaller even though the ships were larger and faster.  Higher speeds put more stress on the rudder.
 
I did not intend to model the rudder machinery, given the scale and the fact that it is enclosed from view. (The small wheel was enough of a challenge for me.)  However, the lower part of the heavy machine base that supported the gearing would be visible because the rudder enclosure is open at the bottom.  The first picture shows the rudder shaft and a brass turning that models the lower part of the cast iron machine base.
 

 
In the next picture the rudder head has been shortened and the iron base blackened.
 

 
The base was simply glued to the deck using medium viscosity CA.  The next picture shows the completed helm enclosure waiting for the wheel.
 

 
The enclosure is fixed temporarily to the deck on wire pins into the corner posts.  This will allow the helm - with the fragile wheel - to be left off the model where it will be safe from damage as other work proceeds. 
 
In the next picture the wheel axle has been fitted into a solid block inside the enclosure and two small grated platforms have been installed to help keep the helmsman’s feet dry.
 

 
The helm enclosure was made by the same methods used on the other deck structures so I will not describe that here.  The last picture shows the completed helm with the wheel fitted.
 

 
I was fortunate to be able to use some grating left over from the 1:96 Victory model – just enough for the two raised platforms.  I will cover making the wheel in the next part.
 
 
Ed
 

Holiday over ~~~ back to ship building  
 
Them pesky little fenders don't look all that much clinging there to the sides of the ship, but they sure provide some fun tweaking them to get them to match the curves of the hull !
 

 

 
Some structural work has been done in preparation for the foredeck beams and planking.
Some partitioning 'dry positioned' on upper deck >>>
 

 

 
. . . and the rough blank for the aftmost beam 'dry positioned' >>>
 

 
Now for the fun of preparing the catheads and the beakhead bulkhead
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Most of the photos in all of my previous posts have pretty much been 'historic' ~~~meaning that they represent parts of my build that have taken place over a period all the way back to late 2010.  I've already mentioned that there were a few lengthy lay-off periods  . . .
. . . but now this log is pretty much in 'real time' and whatever is posted from now on will be of current parts of the build.
 
Right now, I'm wrestling somewhat with the stern parts and will be putting that to the side while I pay some attention to other less frustrating parts.
In the last few days I've been fiddling around with some smaller bits n' pieces. 
 
Picture stories > > >
 
These 'over-the-counter' spindles cut into large and small sections >>>
 

 
. . . the larger sections going here >>>
 

 
. . . to form this >>>
 

 
A few deck rings, a single shot garland, and the main bitts have been attempted; and while the garland and the rings are now a permanent part of the ship, the bitts and the quarterdeck rail are only dry-fitted. The rail and bitts are just too fragile and vulnerable to be fitted at this stage, and will go in "the box" with a few other delicate things already made.
 

 

 
Now, a 10 day break in France beckons in a few days time,   so there won't be much progress for a couple of weeks.
 
 
 
 

Christian,
 
As I'm having a measure of success with the wood I'm pressing on with trying to make wooden spindles. When I say I'm having success I'm also having some failures, but I'm having more successful cuts than failures, so I'll keep going for now anyway.
 
However, while I grind away at the tedium of trying to sort the stern quarters I'm also diverting to other (less tedious!) parts of the build from time to time.
 
The poop deck now has its planking done.
 

 

Thanks Christian.
 
As I said in my previous post, I have removed the offending parts of these stern window frames and have made a brief start at trying to remedy the problem.
I'm attempting to attach individual horizontal muntins between the verticals and it is proving to be very tricky ~ they are only about 2mm - 2.5mm in length and less than 0.5mm thick so I don't know how successful this will be. Meanwhile, I find it is sometimes better to walk away from a difficult task and to do something else, then return at a later time.
If this doesn't prove to be reasonably satisfactory I will have to re-think another strategy. I'll be looking at some of your suggestions.
 
After I had initially attached these 'not-so-good' stern parts (several weeks ago) I set about making preparations for the poop deck >
 

 

 
 
 
 

Okay Jim -
 
it's a great first start!!! You made a bridge from thr skelleton of wood to a well done first stern!
I think your feeling of imperfectism depenses on your view - on the  model. The cross in the windows are able to be better.
If the horicontal parts were more parallel they will look a lot better.
 
Lots of years I've built scratch wagon for my O16.5 freelance railway by adopting Pullmann and othe prototypes - there is the source of my idears to find in.
 
1st save wood - use cardboard:
It's cheaper, easier to cut und it doesn't hurt so much to bin a second and third trail. 
 
2nd go the easiest way:
The easiest way (i.m.h.o.) may be to cut the windows out from the extra plancopy and unsing them as a direct stencil.Perchance the used wood in windows corsses are too wide, so a smaller/thinner pice of wood might bring more satisfaction in the building becauce it is closer to the prototype.
 
3rd keep you flexibley - stay able to change your mind:
If wood doesn't work - don't try it a fourth fivth or dozendth time - change the material... take plasticcard - and paint it like wood - the hole ship will be painted... why not begin with the windows crosses?
 
4th trust your eye:
The circle of the higher balcony seems to be too plan - check it with the plans pattern.
Take both - the sideview and the sterns frontalview as you are driving backward with the car - using both wing mirrors by changing between them!
 
"It's a pure mixture of diffrend materials under the skin of colour - but nobody knows without me!"
Wolfram zu Mondfeld                      
 
                     
HTH,
Yours,
Christian

Thanks Nils and Christian.
 
You're right Christian ~~~ there is always plenty of work before us! Thanks again for your photo.
When I reach the completed hull stage I may place it on a pedestal for a while . . . before I move on to the rigging.
So now you are reading 4 books! . . . you'll have to make sure you have time to get on with building your Wolf - I'll be watching your buildlog.
 
Back to Leopard.  By the time I had planked the quarterdeck I was beginning to think about that part of the build that I had been "putting on the back burner" for some time. THE STERN QUARTERS !
Oh Dear !!! ~ I felt it was time to think about how I could possibly create anything that would resemble what I had been looking at in the drawings.
. . . and here is what I saw every time I looked at the drawings :-
 

 
>>> The photo above shows the spindles/balusters that run along the stern 'balcony' and round the port and starboard galleries are hardly 1mm at their thickest point and at their thinnest part they are less than 0.5mm, and the window muntins are also less than 1mm in thickness, so I knew that there was no way that I would be able to create anything so tiny that would look like these spindles.
In my lack of knowledge I had already "created" these unconventional 'structures' at the stern as shown below :-
 
 

 
 
So ~ after lots of attempts to think of how I could transform that monstrosity into a 'look-alike' stern I decided to form each side (port & starboard) and the upper and Q'deck sterns as individual units that could be brought to the ship and glued in position. 
Here's what it looks like in the early stages -
 

Thanks Juergen.
 
With the hull now "done" I had to decide what part of the build I would tackle next.
I wanted to do something that wouldn't seem to last forever but would also make it look like I had achieved something, so I chose to make the gangboards at the waist.
In order to create a support for the aft end of the platform that rises from the aft end of the gangboards, it seemed like the right time to form and instal the foremost of the quarter deck beams . . . as well as a few more beams >>>
 

 
. . . and when I had done these few beams I couldn't resist the urge to do the rest ~ if I could just get that quarter deck laid I would feel like the build was going somewhere ! >>>
 

 
Another roughed-out grating "test-fitted" before commencing any deck planking on the Q/deck . . . >>>
 

 
Compared to the hull, the Q/deck planking was done in fast mode. So much so that I neglected to take any intermediate photos.
Here it is with the coamings dry-fitted to one of the 2 "holes" down through to the upper deck for the rigging. The deck still had to be scraped and sanded at this stage >>>
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Leopard eventually came back down into the shipyard (again).
 
Before I resumed the planking I made another couple of diversions. A channel seemed like it might be a little project to help uphold my interest in the build because, as close as I was to finishing the planking, it seemed like it was taking forever. So I had a go at the starboard fore channel.
 

 
Since the planking was now complete above the main wale I decided to have a try at making the upper and lower cheeks at the hawse holes.
 
 
 
I also made a start at forming and fitting some of the gun port lids. The next pic shows some lids fitted, the fore cheeks fitted and the chesstrees fitted to both sides of the hull. The hawse holes still need a bit tidying. The fore channel is in "the box" awaiting its turn to be fitted ~ which will be some time yet.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 33 – Main Deck Planking continued
 
Completing the deck planking on each side involved fitting the straight parallel planking to the wide margin plank inside the binding strakes and waterways. These members follow the curve of the side.  The waterways and binding strakes were structural.  The curved margin planks allowed the deck planks to be cut in without damaging the structural inner binding strakes.
 
After the angles of the plank end cuts reached about 60 degrees, further tapering would result in feather edges at the ends that could not be caulked.  Forty-five degrees is probably a better guide, but I used sharper angles on these joints that would be completely hidden by the forecastle deck. In the first picture, loose planks are being used to mark the points at which the full plank widths intersect the edge of the margin plank.
 

 
These marks define the cutting in points.  At each of these a knife or chisel cut was made into the margin plank perpendicular to the deck plank ends and one-half of the plank width.  The shapes of the required plank tapers can be seen in this picture.  Note that the joints get longer going aft, as the curvature of the side becomes less.
 
In the next picture the end has been formed on a plank and it is being marked for cutting out further aft where it meets the main cabin coaming.
 

 
The next picture shows the plank ends under the forecastle.
 

 
In this picture the Samson post knee has been installed and the breast beam made and laid across the bulwarks. The bowsprit opening has been enlarged to the required 36” width.  In the next picture the main deck planking is approaching completion.
 

 
The method of cutting the long joint tapers is shown in the next picture.
 

 
I cut the joints while there is sufficient space for the chiseling - before the adjacent planks were installed.  The chisel is a long, straight, model-sized paring chisel – one of my most frequently used and most essential tools.  Directions for making these chisels were included in Naiad Volume I.  In the next picture a shaped plank end is being fit into its joint.
 

 
For best visual results the pared side of these planks should be painted like the inner edges – to show the caulk line.  I did not do the on this demo model – relying solely on the dark glue to highlight the joint.
 
The next picture shows the very last piece – with a very longer taper – about to be installed.
 

 
Except for the uncovered hatches, the crude POB framing under the deck was now completely covered – a moment I was waiting for.  In the next picture the last plank is in.
 

 
The deck is still wet in this picture from washing off excess glue.  When completely dry, the deck planking was leveled where necessary using the flat rifflers and then sandpaper.  I will cover the methods used for fastenings and final deck finish in the next part.
 
 
Ed
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 32 – Waterways, Binding Strakes, Margin Planks
 
Before deck planking could be extended out to the sides, the waterways, binding strakes and margin planks needed to be installed.  I worked on all these things concurrently – partly to break the monotony of deck planking and also to fill the time it took glued planks to dry.
 
The first picture shows the blue waterway is installed on the starboard side.
 

 
Installation of these members on the POB version is identical to the installation on the framed model and is covered in detail in the book and to a lesser extent on the 1:72 blog.
 
The next picture shows the binding strakes being installed.  I made these structural members with Castello to distinguish them from the ordinary holly deck plank.  These members are also joined at the ends with hook scarphs.
 

 
The next picture shows these members and some of the holly margin planking installed at the bow.
 

 
Deck planking at the bow has begun in this picture.  Planks have been notched as necessary to fit around the installed Samson post.  In the next picture a barrette file is being used to clean up the inside edge of the margin plank on the port side.
 

 
The next picture shows all three members installed on both sides of the forward hull.
 

 
After the planks were installed, they were cut out to allow room for the bowsprit to fit against the forward bulkhead below the deck,
 

 
Installing the planks then cutting the opening ensures that the strakes will be aligned.  Of course all this forward planking will be covered by the forecastle.
 
The next picture shows the decking approaching the margin planks at the side.
 

 
Each plank is cut into the margin plank at one-half of its width.  The planks were tapered back to the point of the next cutting.  This process will be covered in the next part.
 
In the last picture the planking is being levelled out with a flat riffler prior to sanding.
 

 
The straight, parallel strakes of decking were continued outward until the gaps at the margin plank were completely closed.  This final fitting will be covered in part 33.
 
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 31 – Decking
 
Readers may note that I am going into some detail on methods in this log.  As I mentioned earlier, I wanted these posts to be a supplement to the POB model work described in Volume I of the book.  Once the POB model is framed, common methods are used on both versions, but space did not permit pictorial presentation of both versions.  So this should be helpful for POB modelers who are using the book.  There are also a few twists on this version that may be useful.
 
With all the hatchway and cabin coamings installed, the planking of the weather decks began - working from the central plank outwards with the strakes parallel to the centerline.  Inside the waterways that abut the frames at the side, there are three strakes that follow the curve of the side on the main deck – two thicker structural “binding strakes” and one wide ”margin plank”.  The margin plank is similar to that shown below on the poop deck where there are no binding strakes or waterways.
 

 
In the picture the starboard margin plank is being glued to the tops of the frames and to the top outboard plank.  These margin strakes were made wide enough to “cut in” the ends of the straight planks to avoid feathered-edge tapers that could not be caulked. 
 
The picture also shows the pin clamps that I used to hold all of the deck planking in place on this model.  On the larger, framed version, planks were held down with pins pushed through tight holes drilled in each plank – into the members below.  I did not wish to drill holes in this version, so used “pin clamps” that could be hammered into the plywood bulkheads at the edge of the plank being glued.  I made about a dozen of these by drilling holes through small segments of dowel that would allow a tight sliding fit for ½” long lil pins, allowing the pin point to project from the end by about 1/8”.  The pins were then glued into the dowels using medium viscosity CA.  Pins can thus be driven by tapping the head of the pin with a hammer, and removed by pulling on the dowel with pliers.  There is little stress on the CA joint in either case.  These were very useful to say the least.  The next picture shows the completed poop deck.
 

 
As areas of planking were installed, the tops were leveled out using curved flat rifflers followed by sandpaper.  The planks were initially cut about 1” thicker to allow for this.  As described in Volume I of the book and in earlier posts, the planking material was painted on one side with dark brown acrylic paint before ripping the planks – to simulate caulked joints.  Cutting planks into the margin plank is also described there and in other posts.
 
The next picture shows the first central plank on the main deck being installed between hatchway head ledges.
 

 
Accurate centering of these first planks is important.  Although the hatchways were carefully centered on the bulkhead pattern centerlines, I marked a center on each head ledge by measuring in from the outsides of the hatchway with dividers.  This helped ensure that the planking will be symmetric on each side of the hatch framing.  If hatches are found to be slightly out of line as the planking progresses forward using this method, they may have to be moved slightly.
 
In the next picture a plank is being marked for notching to fit around one of the mizzen bitts.
 

 
Planks will most likely need to be notched to fit around the sides of hatchways.  Where very thin widths would result, wider sections in planks along the side of the hatch were used, cut back to normal width to fit against angled cuts in planks at the ends.  (I will look for a picture and post later.) Dark glue was used for all this planking.   In the next picture a screw clamp is being used to close a joint at the corner of a hatch.
 

 
The next picture shows the main deck planking progressing forward.
 

 
To ensure adequate and symmetrical spacing between plank butts, I used a standard plank length that would span eight bulkheads, 7 spaces.  Planks were thus about 35-40 feet long.  This resulted in uniform and adequate spacing of butts both across and along the strakes.  Planks on these ships were narrow – about 6”.  On this model I used a standard width of 7” including the caulk paint.
 
You will notice that the outer members – waterways, binding strakes and margin plank are not yet installed in the last picture.  This work will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 
Later:  Here is a picture illustrating the planking configuration described above.
 

 

and final pictures in this season  installation the rest of spritsail rigging
next session should happend in september - october ... will try to fabricate and install rest of the fore mast sails and start to do smth with grotmast
Thanks everyone hwo spent time to look at my experiments
ALL THE BEST! 

Next stage,this month and last till my next vacation in september - spritsail making and installation
I used high quality percale for sails making - by my opinion- it is the best material even for scale 1:100 remains more or less acceptable...
For this scale I simplified procedure as much as possible, and use textile clue wherever posible - bolt ropes - clued to the sail edge,cloth connection imitated by pencil sharped to hair thick  and than all lines need to be light squeezed by awl ...
Fabric painted by wood stain in advance soaked in mix of water and white wooden clue and dried without ironing - after such treatment looks and feel like paper -very handle to work with

than there was a problem with guns...actually spanish galleon should have two wheel gun-carriage, kit version was 4 wheel, and I tried to modify it for two wheels carriage...let say I did it formal only due to wrong position of kit guns frame which positioned too low, and full size modification was not available ...so I did what I did , and removed previously installed gun tackles ...I don't know what kind of arrangements of this tackles need to be done for breech-loader guns and I left breeching only
Mary Roze armament pozition - just for example as it was very near to galleon age

Good day,
Dear Steve,WackoWolf
Thanks for Your warm comments,
I'm very sorry since long time I didn't refresh my building report,....for some reasons...but I didn't give it up, still have some progress...but everything goes very slowly...
Steve,
You asked abt imitation of nails head... afraid my reply is too late,...but anyway... I did it mixing acrylic Matt vanish with very fine "finish crack filler",which remains from that time when I did my flat repairing...actually such staff remained a lot,may be 500 gym. but for our purpose we need a few grams. only ))... so this "finish fine chalk Crack filler" need to mix with acrylic Matt vanish, to reach some kind of cream consistency, and than you can use it for imitation nails/bolts head...I used some kind of dosage plastic tube to apply this staff on the surface...when you did micro drop ,wait couple of seconds,and than gently press it ,to make it flat...when it became dry,paint it to the color You need and finally You will have such nails head imitation...need to have a little bit practice ,but after couple of tries You will have good results...I'm very sorry for my English, but hope You did catch idea..
 
Some pctrs of the current stage of my building you can see here
 
http://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/?PAGEN_1=84
 
And here
 
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2801f761-Spanish-galleon-the-Armada-campaign-in-just-one-more-version-3.html
 
Hope I will be able to return to my project at the end of December this year,or in the beginning of the next...
Wish all of you all the Best!!!
Kirill

Next stage for me was just continue to attach shrouds without laniards and when all set was installed left them like this for a moment, than I fabricate fore stay with loop and mouse and install it and adjust nessry lenght ...and after that only it was possible  to remove carton and install and adjust laniards...adjusting laniards tighteness took me couple of days due to plastic masts very sensitive and load need to be distributed very smooth
As soon as it was done I secured them with drop of CA gel oposite and than made free end of laniard turn around and secured...details of location knob and passing those laniard ends well discribed in "The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson"
Mouse I've made from piece of liquid steel ,forming a ball shape(not pear shape like on modern vessel) and imitated stitch by knife + painted later on
Shrouds top Loops not served ///as I understood in this time they shouldn't  be(continent)

Next stage was fore shrouds installation...as soon as it is my first model where I wanted to make more or less full style rigging,I men as much complicate as I can do...I was a little bit afraid to start...
One of the unsolved problem which is still remains - I use not proper ropes for rigging but ordinary polyester  threads...and appearance is not as it should be when You make Your own ropes...but OK...next model I will do with correct threads,just need to fabricate simplest rope makeing mashine
Thread which I used for shroud - hawser laid ,as said -ordinary rope...and same I saw was used on Duyfken replica
Above deadeye I didn't make end crossed standing part and didn't make "throat seizing" but just seized end rope to its standing part when rope went around deadeye -finaly have rope end lie forward on sbs and aft on ps ...classical arrangment on modern ship will looks different
Thread which I used was preliminary painted by acrylic paint (mix of brown+black+ochre light+raw umber+matt acrylic varnish) - proportion free, just maid it close to dark brown for standing rigging and brown -raw umber- yellow- for running rigging
Before start making shrouds I made hard carton pattern where marked pozition of the shrouds+position of upper deadeye+ratline position 
upper deadeye secured with wire wich I purchased in some shop for sewing hobby and a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive gel ...
The rest of procedure was much easy that I supposed -make shroud goes round of upper deadeye,adjust position ,make it tight as much as possible and hold by clip + secure end of the rope with couple of seizing...
forward shroud I made serviced
I guess this "technology" is very well known and isn't so interesting... ratlines will be installed at the final stage of the rigging...

As soon as I solved this problem with bowsprit fixing I went to the mast tackles and made them tight + added imitation of ropes coils

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 121 – Coach
 
The coach was really just a vestibule at the break of the poop to provide access from the main deck to the entrance of the “mezzanine” level cabin deck below.  It is an interesting and intricate structure.  Its forward end is just large enough to fit an entrance door on each side and that part is supported on a coaming on the main deck.  The aft part merely provides headroom above the main deck level over the head of the staircase that leads down to the cabins.  At the break of the poop is a double-door entrance to the head of the cabin deck staircase.  As mentioned before, the design of all this interior work is speculative.
 
The first step was to make and fit the starboard side panel on the coamings on both decks and to the bulkhead at the break of the poop.  In the first picture that wall has been built up of planks in the usual way and then cut to fit.  In the picture the forward corner post is being glued on.
 

 
In the next picture the studs on the inside of the wall have been installed and the door opening cut out flush with those members using the circular saw for most of the cut length.
 

 
A panel for the entrance door was then cut and fitted to reinforce this very fragile structure and provide a base for the door paneling.  In the next picture the panel is being glued in.
 

 
The outer door jambs and header are being added in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the door has been paneled inside and out and the wall installed on the coamings.
 

 
I made the doorway into the cabin itself a bit more ornate, using the same wood and trim style used in the cabins as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this picture the double doors have been fitted with simple brass hardware.  As with the cabin woodwork, I used black walnut for the doorway.  In the next picture the finished forward bulkhead is in place and aft bulkhead is being glued in.
 

 
The wall on the port side consists only of the stud framing – to provide some visibility to the interior.  In the next picture that framing has been installed and other work is in progress.
 

 
In the picture the overhead rafters have been installed as well as the structure and panels on either side of the doorway.  The exterior end trim pieces are being glued on in the picture.  The last picture shows the freshly painted roof on the finished coach.
 

 
This picture also shows a new entryway on the port bulwark and some modifications that I will explain in the next part.
 
Ed

And here she is on her stand, sailing away!

Didn't do much on the Alert while finishing up the Yakatabune model. But, now that that's out of the way, time to put some work in on the Alert again.
 
This year, I decided not to risk any damage to the model by bringing it to the NRG conference, but a number of people asked about it. So, I kind of regret not taking it. For one thing, it serves as a great advertisement for Shipyard paper model kits in general. However, this model is far enough along that I now need something in the earlier stages of construction again. I do have an HMS Mercury kit in 1/96 scale that will probably do the trick. I also have the GPM detail kit for it. Plus, I believe that there's a set of sails and a masting kit at Ages of Sail that's been part of a box of stuff that's just been hidden on a shelf for the last year and a half. So, that may be the next background paper model project.
 
In the meantime, I cut a thin strip of photo paper that I printed a black line on. I then painted the edge of the thin strip and cut it in short length to serve as trunnion caps on the Alert's cannon carriages.
 

 
I've also been working on the spars and added the yard to the topsail and the gaff to the mainsail. I also added swiss pear blocks to the spreader yard, but I've been feeling like I want to make as much of the model from paper as possible. So, I'm going back and adding paper blocks in place of the swiss pear ones. They don't look as good, but the more of the model that is paper, the better, since it IS a paper model.
 

 

 
I've also started adding the stanchions of the taffrail that surrounds the quarterdeck. This is one of those things where I "thought" myself to a standstill. Having thought less about it, I've now started to make a little progress again.
 

 

 
I'll swap the blocks and see if I can't finish the taffrail soon. With that and adding the cannons done, it will officially be time to rig.
 
Clare

Finally home long enough to make some progress. In this case it is the start of the stern decoration.

Hi All,
 
Final installment of the guardrail saga.  As you can see I've finally put the rails in place, a tip if your heading for this bit, do as the instructions say and do the guardrails in two parts.  Making it would have been easier, and installation a breeze.  Having said that if it was easy it would be boring