Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About kirill4

  • Birthday 02/21/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    sailing ship plastic models, blues and hard rock music listening_playing

Recent Profile Visitors

845 profile views
  1. Hi Mark, When I have opportunity , I always watch Your studies and building reports with great interest!!! For me it is an example of excellence of workmanship! Great!!!
  2. Thanks Jonathan, I'm glad You found it interesting ...:))) Wish You all the best! Kirill
  3. Hello Marc, Thanks , :))) To preserve potal luster, it need to be varnished or lacquered... there are many special liquids for that effect on the market(decoration hobbies) ... after almost 5 months, I found that it became a little bit redish in color, but remained same luster ...so better to protect it presently I covered all with glossy acryl lacquer. For making medalion... as "donor" ,for this tafferal medallion served ordinary chip /less than dollar price /plastic medalion ... I found it somewhere years ago by ocasion in some small shop on the street , that time I liked medalion picture quality as all smallest details were nice visiable , I bouth it just for case - and now this case happened :))) for making negative mould I 've used two components epoxy , like a solid paste, they call it "cold welding"here in Russia, actually it was not designed for this use, but for making small repair of leaking pipes for example , etc... I used it because it just was under hand, lets say :))) and didn't want to spend time for waiting special components delivery from internet shop... but quality of the casting , as You could see < not very good... small details missed during "casting" process but for better result I think spesial staff need to be used - rubberized mould medium +resin casting- something , as Dafi used when reproducing nessesery copies in his VICTORY project In my case , for making copy of this medalion, first, I made negative sculpt in this two components "clay" and than ,using same staff again, I made positive sculpt - to separate positive and negative substanceses, I used silicon grease.
  4. Good day, Dear friends, there is small updates - I prepaired grapnel for installation... on the foto , it isn't fitted yet, just try to see how it will looks like at place. Will be continued in march 2020... Wish all of you All the best in coming 2020!!! :)))
  5. Good day Dear Community! I’m continuing experiments with using" potal"( fake gold) instead of gold paint (maybe this idea will be useful for someone to use "potal " for gilding decor on the model.,and ...and not only decor ... It could be used for guilding model's stands ... some other parts on the model which surfaces need to be looks like " metal" On the first foto you could see difference between gold acrylic paint and "potal leafs" Presently I’ll try to replace paintings of all decorative elements. which were painted by gold paint in the past (the first photo shows the difference between the gold paint and potal leafs) ...and repaint them with "potal"... As You could see, I changed a little color of my sails...made them more dark - on the foto you could see difference in color between mizzen and bonaventure sails and main and fore sails as well Also I repaint anchor's wooden parts partuatly and rearange imitation fasteners which joining two wooden halves- bolts imitation made from acrulic contur paint and I prefabricated " plates " for main tacks and made "boarding" anchor, which later on will be fastened to the bowsprit ... and yes, I decided to replace Stern Shields,and made it in relief but not flat picture (foto print) as before... as example boarding anchor /approx size compare to human body you could see on these pictures ..
  6. Good day, Lanyards looks nice! "Mara " serie, I didn't try...but on your foto it looks good,means it must be suitable material for ropes making, as well as gutermann " scala" and " tera"... regarding trying to find suitable color No ... I don't know... I prefer to use white or very light color and than to use paint for making desired rigging color...as seems to me, if not paint...than some kind of stain need to be used and matt varnish... but this of cause very personal feelings about right model appearance :))) # Regarding rope coil making... I used almost same techniques as Gregory, and deluted white clue as well to keep desired coil form...for making process faster, I use hair dryer. The only difference - I make rope coil in two parts,and than assemble them in one piece...You could see it on the last few pages in my thread abt galleon building- link in my sinature... When placing prefabricated coils , I use small q-ty of CA gell, to make some additional" gravity" effect to the rope in coil...
  7. Good day, Dear Peta_V, Ah,...now I see,that ropes which You used , it was supplied together with kit...? in such case, looks like/could I guess/ there are sizes of the ropes correct only...according to the model rigging plan, but I think( looking at the foto with supplied ropes) they coudn' t be used on the model straight from the box (on the foto, lay of the ropes looks too loose, and color too shining)I think , this supplied ropes need to be "processed" a little before use. # probably need to be rewinding,to get more tight lay...as example refer to the Gregory 's foto with ropes,which are looks right in appearance and color...may be it will be easy to make new ropes ,correct in size and lay from the begining? than try to correct supplied ropes? recently I ve found good staff , I think it is very convinient to use it :for making ropes any size we need for the small scale model - this is Gutermann products...I bouth a few realy "big" coils of different size...it is serie "scala" threads N # 200;240;360, which is kind of "mono" thread and could be winding in any direction when making your own ropes...I found them in this shop - https://legus39.ru/products.php?category_id=44 than combining already made ropes from this threds and use different thread No ...we can make ropes of different sizes we need... there are also treads serie "tera"...which is also good for making ropes,but they less interesting because they are already made as ordinary thread, and not so easy for making small ropes... # color... personaly I prefer to use white...or bright thread colors and later ,when rope made, to stain or paint them in color I need...actualy we need only two color for rope painting... I use acrylic paint, made mix of bright and dark colors for painting running and stay rigging...but better result could be obtained using artist oil paints deluted in thinner - reffer as example to the works of this high rank modeller Dmitry Shevelev... https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=28865&start=330 https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=71037 how looks his artystic paints painted ropes there is translated text from D.Sh. advices regarding ropes painting techniques ...Re: How is this done? Dmitry Shevelev »Mon Jan 16, 2017 13:24 Good afternoon, Oleg! I paint white threads with art oil paints. I’m breeding a half-liter jar. I mix a tube of paint with liquid oil. On a standing rigging is the Leningradskaya Umbra. On running to this paint I add ocher. I paint by pulling the thread through a jar or a poured puddle of paint. Then I pull the thread through the glove several times and hang it up to dry. You can use it in a day.... All the best Kirill
  8. Good day , Peta, Very good, accurate, precise and " sharp" work You did! Watch it with pleasure...but the "ropes" , you used ... :(...they somehow drops out from the entire style of the model... Agree with Dubz, could it be replaced for (?self made ropes as option?), with more realistic looks? there are a few very simple rope making mashines on the market I saw, but the ropes which You made by yourself will looks much, much better, than just ordinary ,unprocessed threads You used now...
  9. yes...need to experiment... need smthng like 10-20 ml volume of such solution- mix powder - water-spirit-very small drop of dishwash detergent(?fairy?or similar brand...i think doesn,t matter which one...some chip brand...) how much need to make powder:) ... not too much...gram/less... it works good , dark powder(black-red-brown mix) on bright surface ...or viseversa greish colors on black ... ...but of couse, concentration better determine by experiments...
  10. don't know exactly...:))), asume ,due to there are those of the detergent components ...surfactants...which make this mix of pastels powder and water more stable _ and more "active" on surface?...but not sure... I ,ve found this "receipt" somewhere in internet long time ago...it was from model "washing" tips and tricks...but I use it in wrong way :))) not as "washing", but mostly for " weathering " :))) my paint works...make them less bright and more stained...if I could say that...
  11. Hi Marc , there is nothing special I think...just use any dry artistic pastels, must be not oil pastels...made powder from it ,mix with water-alkohol-a very small drop of any dishwash detergent...that all...apply on surface/ area which need to be stained,remove excess of staff with cotton stick or smthng similar( wet brush???)...if applied too much...made correction as desired...after drying , could be fixed with ... acrylic matt varnish ( I use )...actualy, this stuff ,if applied...one time ... than could not be removed easily,even without any fixation liquid... :)))... in the begining,I try to seal it with varnish...but later on ,just use it without any sealing attempts...
  12. Hi Marc, Thank You very much for the answer, now is clear...I was afraid abt long drying time of this stain, but looks everything is OK ! I saw fotos of Herbert's models for the Texel Roads diorama( save it as bookmarks/ one of my lovely)-they looks realy cool(specialy weathering wood effect)!!! I use dry pastels,acrylic paints and acrylic stains(maker Plaid/FolkArts) for weathering, they drying in minutes, but never used oil paint as stain medium....and it is just iteresting to see how it works on your model... All The Best! Kirill
  13. Hi Marc, You mentioned" Van Dyke Brown oil paint"... didn't know/ never use oil paints for weathering effect/ abt this paint...try to find in internet,what is it... they said, this paint very difficult in drying...like never became dry,even in thinest film...??? How do you manage it?
  14. Hi Marc, results of your "paintings jobs"/weathering and distress effects - looks good! very good!... I like it... would be very interesting to look at completed painting/weathering... All The Best! Kirill
  15. Good day,B.E. Very nice and clean job You do! watch your model building process with great interest!

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...