Rudolf

Starboards done, now the stern. Not sure yet if I cut the strips too close to the poop deck. Let's see how I can salvage this.

Starboards turn:
 

I did some research on how I would paint the hull once it would be finished. I stumbled across the copper plating the original ships had. I found a copper imitation that seems to be in scale and bought it.
Since it would stick out too far over the hull I'll have to add a second layer of planks after all.
The birch planks above the deck can use some stiffening up too, so it makes sense.
 
 

I found the link to a model made by Cyril Hume to get inspired by. https://collection.maas.museum/object/211834
 
I built a little jig to mark a line above the waterline where the copper plates will join the second layer of planking.
 
I don't know why the pictures are the wrong way around. They're fine on my computer... The last one is of the copper imitation. I still have to figure out how to apply it to the hull properly. You can break it down into single plates. I would prefer to keep the strips intact though. Don't know how to bring it around the curves with a snug fit und not too large gaps in between.
 
 

@markjay
@GrandpaPhil
Hi,
thank you very much for the good wishes.
 
Hello colleagues,
after a short creative break ... 😁... we continue here again:
Continuation: Ratlines for the topmast shrouds - Enflechures
With the addition of the ratlines for the topmast shrouds, it was necessary to clarify how the futtock staves are to be made here. In contrast to the more massive futtock staves of the lower shrouds, made of served brass rods, I used a rope with ø 0.35 mm for the topmast shrouds, which was soaked with super glue before serving.


After fixing the futtock stave, I could attach the last ratlines of the port side main topmast shrouds.


So the chapter -ratlines for the main topmast shrouds- is done:

Soon I will continue with the ratlines for the fore topmast shrouds to finally close the chapter -ratlines- for this model.

To be continued ...
 

Hello,
thank you Albert and also all the others who give me there likes.
Today the painter finished the port side and the carpenters working at the starboard side.
 

 

Hello,
the collar beam is installed and the cat beam is at his place. The next things to do is building the beakhead stanchions and planking in front of them.
 

 

 

Hello,
this rather boring work has now ended. Both sides are ready planked. The next more thrilling task is the beakhead bulkhead and the fore castel.
 

I occasionally see posts where modelers have created cannons or anchor chains with 3D printing. The tiny bar-link anchor chains are a special problem because paints often act as glues to fuse the links together. A modeler (Hank) posted a useful tip of The Ship Model Forum for blackening anchor chain. I have experimented with this a bit and here is what I have learned.
 

This is the TransTint water/alcohol soluble black dye. It is about US$24 for 2 ounces (59 ml). For staining porous material the instructions say to dilute the dye 1:32 in water. I tried this with different staining times, and also used the dye undiluted. Here are the results on a 1:96 scale US light cruiser bar link chain with links that are 3.9 mm x 2.3 mm x 0.66 mm "wire" diameter (the rod the chain is made from is called a "wire"):
 

 
The top chain in the photo is an early experiment with an excessive exposure time that caused the links to fuse - so it made a good test subject. But it shows the original color of the Anycubic Basic Grey resin.
 
The second example was stained for one hour in the 1:32 diluted dye and dried overnight.
 
The third from the top was stained overnight (>8 hours) in the 1:32 diluted dye.
 
The bottom example is a section of freely articulating bar link chain that was stained for one hour and dried on a paper towel in air overnight.
 
The middle two examples aren't much, if any, different. So the staining time doesn't make much difference. These chains are too light. The bottom chain is satsifactorily black. Some of the links were lightly fused after dying, but a gentle twist of the chains set them free.
 
I noticed that some of the black dye rubbed off on my fingers when I was handling the chain. I folded a damp (with water) paper towel around it and a LOT of pigment washed off. After it was dried it looked like this:
 

 
It was still very black and none of the pigment rubbed off with handling.
 
I dyed a bunch more chains and after drying held them under a slow stream of warm water. A short (one second) plume of dye washed off and then the water was clear. The dried chains are very black and completely flexible.
 
So I think the best procedure is to dunk the chain (cannons) in undiluted dye for an hour or so (maybe shorter) and air dry for several hours. Then wash it for a few seconds in water and let it air dry.

Till the end of March 2022 a great overview exhibition of the ship drawings and paintings by father and son Van de Velde can be seen in the Maritime Museum, Amsterdam (NL). While I am not sure one could build a model from this line drawing of a yacht by the son (made ca. 1675), isn't this an irresistible combination of technique and art? I could not resist sharing this with all of you, anyway.

Thanks for your comments Wally and Dave, these are the drawings from LB Jenson book the Bluenose 11 (these are to help with my build if not allowed please delete)
He shows a drawing of the Bluenose which I have used for stove and chimney and the other two show the inside of the Schooner Caroline Rose.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is part of the Captain cabin
 
 https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/YClH68.jpg
 
This is where I am now and will paint it white inside.
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/5t7AHq.jpg
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/ekzQVo.jpg
 
Will be adding some curtains where their beds go
 
Also got the cove painted and also the bowsprit painted and installed 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/JPAVrw.jpg
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/nzcGYk.jpg
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/MpwQQ4.jpg
 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard
 

Hi Eric, bit late with the reply but thanks for looking in and your kind comment do apricate it.
 
So have done a little more to her but not so much in making but redoing, it started with the lower chain plates, which I had made from the brass strips .016" thick supplied with the kit found this out once I removed them, thought I had used some .010" brass sheet.
 

 

 
So now I remade them out of .005" solder small tube to the ends then made a jig to drill the mounting holes and now have the lower chain plates more to scale.
 

 

 
 

 

 
Then was not to happy with the black paint job so sanded that down and as per Robin letting me know that I had not painted the sides right I masked the hull up to include black up the sides of the main rail and Monkey rail, board and buffalo rail.
 

 

 
Put some semi gloss on
 
 
 
Next up was to remake the eye bolts for the deadeye strops which I had made from wire and did not look to good, tried by making out of thicker wire and then soldering a small tube to the ends, but this did not work to well when I went to bend them to go around deadeye 🤔
So decided to use .016" brass flat bar worked out where I needed the holes, drill them first then filed to shape then bent to shape, came out way better than my first try.
 

 

 

 
Casey blacked all parts and will use a small bolt and nut 
 

 

 
Well not much to show these past few months have to figure what I am going to do with the scroll around the hawse holes then paint the cove, then the name plates.
 
Thanks again for all who have looked in and commenting on my on going build.
 
Regards
Richard 
 

Looked at Gary's (FriedClams) Bilge pump on his 1920 New England Stonington Dragger and he built a Edson Model #2 so looking at the drawing of Bluenose supplied it did not look the same so I have gone with the drawing.
 
 

 
Made some rough sketches 
 

 
Machined the body first out of 5/16" brass bar here it is just taken it off the lathe
 

 
Machined the top brackets
 

 
Once all that was done, cut the part were the water would flow out and ground sides so that I could solder a piece of bent brass to the body, also machined the bottom tabs for mounting pump
 

 
Then parted off then press fitted it upside down onto a piece of wood and machined the excess metal between tabs also drilled the holes in tabs for mounting.
 

 
Then made the mount plate with a small piece tube for easy of gluing to deck
 
 
 
Blacken the mount plates and made them so they would be parallel and flat because the deck has a curve, did carve out a step so they would sit right 
 
  
 
Next was to make the plunger this was .135" dia 
 
 
 

 
Next was to make the links, I took a piece of 1/16" tube machined the sides to get .049" then soldered this to a piece of brass same width, but I did notch it with the angle as per drawing
 

 
After some cutting drilling and clean up got the links looking as per the drawing supplied then made the handle started with the width of the tube hole then filed to shape, got to do the second one, blacken the two pumps at this time
 
 
 
Got them just sitting there not mounted but they turned out ok
 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who made a comment and all who looked in and and left a like do apricate.
 
Regards
Richard
 
 

Thanks very much Keith and your build is absolutely exceptionally good as well 👍
Hope it helps you in your build Richard
Thanks Robin did make with a few knocks as I see in the pictures, still thinking of maybe doing a bit of weathering 
Thanks Michael that is very nice of you to say  
Love the metal work as well Joe, but also I do love doing the woodwork isn't it a great hobby
 You are right Richard the kit supplied white metal parts are not up to par which is a shame 
Thanks Mugje 
 
Thanks a lot mate just trying to get it to look right really.
 

 
Again thanks for your comments and to everyone for the likes
 
Regards
Richard
 

Couple of small updates starting with the guard to go over the windlass gears, does not look much but I suppose it stopped fingers/hands or rope/chain from jamming 🤔
Sheared .003" brass sheet bent to shape and then soldered the top bracket on, was just a little short so soldered a small piece to the bottom, after that drilled four .011" holes so that I could add some .4 mm Philip screws, will blacken it later.  
 

 

 
Next up was the windlass brakes so started with the brake beam used this picture and drawings provided to come up with the shape,  machined the base out of 1/8" sq brass bottom is .014" and sides are .010" then made the beam out of 3/32" sq brass, drill the hole for the mount first then machined the side stiffeners after that I filed to shape, filed ends so that I could fit 1/16" sq tubing these were cut to .098" long and then soldered to each end also cut a piece of tubing and that got soldered to the mounting hole, once this was done I cut the small reinforcement bar at each end were handle will go from 3/32" brass tube and soldered them on and gave it a go clean up.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Made the small brackets for connecting links from .10" brass then made a jig so that I could soldered them on
 

 
Held it down so nothing moves and bingo it worked 
 

 
Will blacken it later, pic with kit supplied part
 

 

 

 
Next up is to make two of these ratchet quadrants then shackles and links
 

 
Thanks everyone for all the comments and likes much appreciated until next time.
 
Regards
Richard  
 
 

Made the square bearings as per Model Shipway drawings and then Casey Blacked all gears, bearings and shaft.
 

 
Then started to work on the wood whelps and that is when I found I had made the shaft wrong, while I was looking at the pictures I thought there was a step and when I glued the first ones I could see there was no room for the shaped whelps so re-machined a new shaft.
 

 
Started to make the riding Bitt, cheek and knees adding in the square hole for bearing, this I machined in the mill and all wood was Boxwood
 

 
Added the deck pads which I did not have the first time and filed chamfer to both Bitts and then glued knees to Bitts
 

 

 
After that I started back on the wood whelps for rope hawser, made as per LB Jenson book but the shaped whelps I went as the picture, made all wedges so total of 20 pieces made from Boxwood to make up rope hawser.
 

 

 

 
Installed gears to see how it looked at this stage and also to start making the double pawl, here is a picture of old and upgraded
 

 
Pawl bracket machined .134" x .210" base part was .012" thick and sides with holes was .010" thick, pawls were .076" wide and had a taper on each one 
 

 

 
Added four .013" holes in base so that I could add four bolts
 

 

 
Looking not to bad 
 

 

 
Next up was to work on the Chain Hawser started by making pie shape pieces to go around shaft and then machined the wooden sheave which go on the outside (I think it is called a sheave)
 

 

 

 
Last ting was to add the iron whelps, looking at the pictures I think there was four and that is what I have done, but looking at Model Shipway drawing I can see eight so does anyone know how many? I can easily add the other four. 
 

 

 
I am really glad I upgraded and enjoyed making all these parts.
 

 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Made the hinges for the engine box, glue in place and they work well.
Did find out what engine they used, found it was a Acadian Co Bulldog 10 HP, gasoline fuel, make &break, magneto start  it was in the L.B Jenson box (if this is not allowed please delete) and found a picture of it on the web looks like it was red/orange.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Now that the gears are made for the boom crutch, I looked at the windlass I had built using the white metal parts and wooden parts that I added as per the drawings and thought this should be upgraded 
 
Drawing part of Model Shipways
 

 

 

 
Then looked at LB Jenson sketches and he had some specifications and sketches (these are to help with my build if not allowed please delete)
 
 
 
And on the bottom of this page it says Bluenose were fitted out as per drawing
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Then looked back at the pictures which were taken just before she was sold 1946 we have three deference's (these are to help with my build if not allowed please delete)  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So I have gone with a bit here and there so started by machining a piece of boxwood to 17" dia real size 1/64 scale was .265" put a bevel on each end (which later found I did wrong) then drilled a .046" hole and put a shaft through.
 

 
Next up was to make the two ratchet bands size .485" dia x .046 wide then cut 36 teeth
 

 

 
Then made the windlass gear size was .656" x .056" wide and then cut 48 teeth this worked out to 7.5 deg gears fitted good, put it back in lathe using a piece of wood so that I could put it square to bore inside dia 
 

 

 
Machined the spider band which bolts to the windlass gear, then glued it to a piece of boxwood .265" so that I could machine the spider legs, same time drilled .013" holes in each leg
 

 

 

 
Marked some blue on the gear and filed little stick outs for the connection for spider band, next up was to bend the spider legs to fit the gear rim, then made a jig so that it  was nice and steady while I drilled the two together. 
 

 

 

 
Up next was the Pawl teeth band this I made as per L.B Jenson sketch which was for 13 teeth on an angle so machined size as per sketch size was .354" dia x .076" wide
 

 
Put it in the mill and offset the cutter and bit by bit got the teeth to look the way I wanted
 

 

 

 
Made two washers .014" thick to go either side of Pawl teeth
 

 
Again did enjoy making these gears it was fun figuring how to make them.
 
To be continued
 
Regards
Richard 

Nice word Ja thanks for looking in
 
 
You are too kind Michael thanks a lot.
 
 
Totally agree Keith it is pretty sad when you get supplied fitting like this, for people who don't have the equipment to make it's a shame, I don't know what they were like back 30 odd years ago was not making ships then, but do appreciate your kind words.
   
 
Thanks Dennis for the info on were to get gears, but the fun in modeling for me is to work out how to make items and then make it, did make the small gears so that a chain from a aftermarket 1/12 scale motor bike would fit my sprockets 😁
 
 
 

 
 
Thanks Schooner, yea did machine the relief in the spokes, bit nuts eh, turned the shape in the lathe then cut teeth, machined spokes on the mill, you have a great question regarding plans as you know I am building from the kit Model Shipways and on the first page of the instruction manual they have this letter.
 

 
 
I like how Ben Lankford made scale drawing which you can build from, and as you see I have built as close as I can to them, I am not sure regarding Phil Esoner drawings which I have sheets 1 to 5 because they are different on deck furniture than Ben Lankford's but then I have the LB Jenson book with his sketches and deck furniture looks different again so which one is right 🤔 your guess is as good as mine, so I have tried to look at as many pictures for help but they can range from 1921 to 1946 just before she was sold and she did get a couple of refits over those years anyway thanks very much for your post, so I will carry on but I could be wrong in what I build.
 
Here's a side shot of her
 

 
Do want to thank you all for the likes as well as the comments do appreciate it 
 
Regards
Richard  

While I was changing engine box I noticed the boom crutch I made was not right as per the drawings (I think I was looking at Phil Eisnor drawing) and I had put the shaft for the engine hoist to low so have now made out of Boxwood as per the drawing provided, did find a picture on the web to help with my build if not allowed please remove.
 

 
 
 
Making the new boom crutch I looked at the kit supplied items and again the white metal parts were not very good and also see how I had made awhile ago.
 

 

 
Started by making the bearings out of brass and 1/32" shaft (it said on the drawing provided shafts were 2 1/4" dia) then made two pinion gears, one which will go under winch gear and the other to go on counter shaft stand, size was .148" dia x .044" thick and made it 12 tooth should have been more but only had a .020" ball cutter, this worked out to one tooth every 30 deg, did use two cutters started with a .031" ball cutter and finished off with the .020" ball cutter.
 

 

 
Then I looked at the winch gear and it didn't look right with my pinion gear so made the teeth part .045" wide by .500" dia made this with 36 teeth so every 10 deg used a .04" ball to start and then finish off with a .031" ball, then put in the mill and cut spokes did it right and cut six 😃 did the spokes by eye so they are a little out here and there, but it did match the pinion teeth fantastic.
 

 

 
In the end made all teeth an 8 tooth, and two 13 tooth (one should have been an 12 tooth but who's going to count 🤔) then made the bell shape winches and the teeth parts for the Pawl's
 

 

 

 

 
Didn't like the Pawl's supplied in white metal so made both out of brass
 

 

 

 
The last thing I made which was the most difficult was to make the counter shaft stand again did not like the white metal one, it was bigger than the drawing so made from brass angle and brass sheet, bearings I machined from brass rectangle each stand was made from six parts and soldered together, all parts were then blacken with Birchwood Casey brass black, last things to make will be the levers for clutch.
 
Whit metal stand

 

 

 

 

 

 
This was a first for me to make gears, and I found I had a great time making all of them and I do feel it is a big difference from the supplied parts.
 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Last post I left off saying I should change the coaming on the skylight, well I removed and built out of Boxwood now with making it the same as the companionway coaming the size changed so now made the skylight again but this time made it with planks same as compaionway, planks were .031" x .0625" made the plank match the stanchions, also made the skylight top a little more curved, then once it was made I machined the portholes, will add clear plastic for the window after I paint it.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Not glued them in place yet, will paint them before they go in
 

 
I liked how the portholes came out to made two for the main cabin, did not like the wood ones I made earlier
 

 

 
Started to look at the Boom Buffer and I noticed it was not in good shape so cleaned it up the best I could but then decided to make one myself, so copied what was given but then I looked at the drawing and thought 🤔 
 
 
 
 
Make one as per drawing provided (drawing is 3/8" = 1'-0") so here is how it turned out
 

 

 

 
Do have one of the white metal for sheet buffer installed, but looking at it it will be hard to see so I think it can stay there.
 

 
Thanks again for all who look in and comment and also thanks for the likes,until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Starting on making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided.
 

 

 

 

 
Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle
 

 
Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms
 

 

 
Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die, threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one.
 

 

 
Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing.
 

 

 
Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. 
 

 

 

 
Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket
 

 

 
So now to put all pieces together
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was fun to make next up will be to install onto the rudder shaft.
 
Regards
Richard  
 
 
 
 

Wheel house was next, followed the drawings provided also found a picture on the web and in a book I bought showing the same as the drawing provided, date of pictures where of the Bluenose when she was sold  in 1946, again made all parts from Boxwood, pictures are to help with my build if not allowed please remove thanks.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Cut the four sides but before putting together machined a .030" ball for the groove should have done two small grooves but did not have a .10" mill, then I made the lid 
 
 
 

 
Made the coaming for the bottom and as the picture rounded the edge on the top, also put the chamfer on the front edges
 

 

 
Cut the slot for the wheel shaft and beveled the edges front and back to the lid, got to make those small hold clips  the groove is a little to close the the coaming but I will leave it as is. 
 

 
Here is a picture of the steering wheel which came with the kit, it didn't look the greatest so looking at the drawing supplied I decided to machine my own, drawing scale was 3/8" = 1'-0" and it gave a nice drawing of the shaft and linkage I thought why not have a go making all parts. found another picture on the web (of Bluenose 11) which gave me another view on how it went together.
 

 

 

 
Started by machining the rim (which in the real world was cast) in the lathe and machine the first face leaving some material so that once I parted off I could turn it around and machine the other side, then it was in the mill so that I could drill the holes for the spokes, drilled the holes bigger than the spoke so I could add tubing two times the size of the spoke, then parted it of in the mill with the table/chuck laying down 
 

 

 
The largest tubes I soldered to the rim
 

 

 
Machined the hub and drilled 8 holes, cut some small tube which will go on the hub, then made a jig so that I could solder all parts together without it moving, picture does not show the small tube by hub
 

 
Did make the shaft using small bolts and tube
 

 
Here it is after soldering needs to be cleaned up
 

 

 
Next up was to make the handles out of boxwood, I took a 1/4" tool steel and ground the shape
 

 

 
On the drawing by the steering house there was a unidentified round object so made that out of apple, made a lid to go on top
 

 

 

 
Thanks a lot for the comments and the likes 
 
Regards
Richard

Changed the height of the catheads now they look like the drawing I must have not divided by two 
 

 
Made a stand which helped me hold the model while I painting the hull black 
 

 

 

 
Now started to look at the cabin and this is what they give for details
 

 

 
Started by making a jig to match the inside of the coaming so that I could build sides of the model, this had to be made with the concaved shape stern to bow and convex starboard to port
 

 
Then took the shape to make the outside coaming which was the same as shape which is on the model
 

 
With this I can start making the sides
 

 
Took a piece of 1/8" square boxwood and machined flats as per corner detail
 

 
Then cut some planks four for each side height took off drawing put them in a bend jig used the male jig to know what the bend was and put a dab of CA to hold 
 

 

 
Cut planks which were glue to length and also the 1/8" square corner pieces mounted in the female jig and got the shape I wanted 
 

 
Check to see if ok with coaming
 

 
So this all worked great and have four sides glued and at the same time I added 1/8" square boxwood all around the top
 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
Richard
 

Carrying on with using the first drawing (in post #63) made the Fore Boom,  Fore Gaff, and Jumbo Jib boom all diameter are the same 3/32" dia at both ends and 1/8" dia in middle, wood I used was from the kit.
Made jaws with boxwood same as Main Gaff made small jigs to help with bending to size the sheet bands, clew bands, boom tackle band, did make the Peak Halliard bands but they disintegrated when I left them in blacken solution to long opps. 
 
Fore Gaff
 

 

 

 
Fore Boom
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Jumbo Jib Boom
 

 

 

 

 
These are all the little jigs which helped
 

 
The Gooseneck 
 

 
Then went back to Bowsprit and made the 4 and 3 eye bands, this is how I set up to solder
 

 

 

 
Then all I needed to do was cut, file to shape and drill a .024" hole in each leg
 

 

 
Three band went the same way
 

 

 

 
The collection
 

 
Again thanks for all the likes and posts 
 
Regards
Richard
 

Main boom was made from Cherry tapered from 3/16" end to 15/64" approx middle then down to 3/16"  at the jaw and Main Gaff was also made from Cherry and tapered 1/8" end to 5/32" approx middle and down to 9/64" at the jaws, the Jaws, Bullseye Fairlead, Stop Chocks and Clapper were made from Boxwood, made the clew bands with working hinge and used very small nuts and bolts for the clamps/bands where needed.
 
These drawings are very detailed and a pleasure to use
 

 

 

 

 
Sanded the curve in jaws on Gaff
 

 
 
 
Sanded the flat spots where jaws fit, then drilled jaws so that I could run a piece of .020" brass rod right the way through, then added washers and small nuts
 

 

 
This is how I made the Clew Band, soldered a small tube to .010" brass 
 

 
Using my Turbo Carver with a dental cutter remover middle on one end and outsides on the other
 

 
 
 
Pined with .020" brass rod 
 

 
Measured the Boom where the Clew bands were to go and made a small jig so that I could bend to shape
 

 

 
How I made the Bullseye Fairlead 
 

 

 

 
Made the links and shackle for Gaff lift
 

 

 

Some small items left to install but here are the them at 95% done
 
Main Boom
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Main Gaff
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
Richard