Rudolf

Thanks for your comments guys. A bit of update: didnt like the capstans, so made new ones (brass/wood) plus the chain deflectors .
Lashing chains (? English?) are now also there. Bit of work that as it required to remove the studs from the first two links of the anchor chain and then threading the lashing chain through it and finally getting small shackles through to fix it to the eye on deck. Will need to touch up some paint as it took uncounted tries.
some progress on the bridge with some interior „decoration“, glass for the windows. Built the 3m rangefinder and made my first piece of railing/handrail. 
latest were the first bollards plus fairleads (rollers still missing) .
 

Thanks for your comments Guys. Sorry for the delay, didnt check this page…
wefalck, of course. I only wanted to try and see how it looks attached to something. will post a picture .
Martin, thank you. I saw your Scharnhorst pelican hooks and tried to copy 😀. 

 

The linoleum on the forecastle deck is finished - its the smaller pieces that take forever. Other than that not much visible progress as its small parts now. Cheers sascha
 

Just a quick update. More work on the superstructure and then start to work on the trim. Some weights are fixed in the hull, as its tricky to grt to some parts. But anx „ses trials“ will have to wait until 2022. 
regards sascha
 

Made a bit of progress, air vent, some more linoleum decking  and (almost) finished the boat racks . Just a few details missing which will follow later. 
happy weekend
Sascha

Thanks for your thumbs up gentlemen. Further catch-up. 
the next pieces were the boat racks (sorry dont know the english word). There‘s quite a few to make and most are slightly different. On top comes the consideration of how/where to attach as the middle section (superstructure deck with funnels 2 and 3) is removable to get some access to rc. I‘ve tried brass and wood and settled for „brass reinforced polystyrene „😎 . Another case of available tools and my skills. The ones toward the bow also had loading cranes for torpedoes but i left those away and only built the mounting for them. This because a) they would have been stored somewhere when sailing and b) they would likely be the first thing to be ripped off when sailing the model.

Thanks for you nice words chris. Next were bulwark, storage containers and the bases for the davits.
 

Hello,
today the man from the Admiralty came, but we had this part ready in time. 😃
 

 

Today I have been busy scarping the hull. On the picture below, the different types of scrapers I have are shown. For this purpose, I think that scrapers are quicker and more precise to work with than sandpaper. Of course, you need to sharpen them quite often.

The result thus far

I also remembered to drill holes for the stand now, while I can still handle the hull upside down. I plan to use the same type of mounting as I did on my medieval longship, a cradle in plexiglass with a central brass pin that fits into small holes in the keel.
 

And finally the stem piece is glued in place. Now that I look at the photo, I see that there is a bit of more cleaning up to do of the planks.
 

 

This build is what I bought the AL Providence whaleboat for, I was going to kit bash it into the Henry Ramey Upcher.  But after getting all the dimensions for the lifeboat, it turned out easier to scratch build it, using Providence as a basic shape template. 
I've picked this subject because as a child, my grandparents spent  summers on the Norfolk coast at Sheringham and when my brothers and I visited, would take us to see it, this was before it even became part of the museum. As a parent myself, the Admiral and I have also taken my children there to see it, although they weren't as enthusiastic as I was!
I still go and have a look at her whenever I'm in Sheringham. 
A little  bit of background info:
The text below is courtesy of
National Historic Ships UK 
 
HISTORY 
 
HENRY RAMEY UPCHER is a lifeboat of clinker built oak construction. She was built in 1894 by Lewis Emery at Sheringham and was powered by oars and sail. The vessel takes its name from the Upcher family of Sheringham Hall who provided the privately-run boat to replace the town's first rescue vessel, the AUGUSTA.  She was known locally as the Fisherman's Lifeboat and operated as an independent lifeboat with a crew of local fisherman, there being other RNLI lifeboats in service at Sheringham at the time. Launching was a community effort requiring considerable manpower.
The vessel was propelled by 16 oars, occasionally requiring two men to each oar.  She could also carry a main lug sail and a mizzen sail. During her service she was launched 61 times and saved 202 lives. Her most famous rescue was of the crew of the brig ISPOLEN in 1897 during the most ferocious storm for decades when her coxswain, Tom Barnes Cooper, was over 70 years old.
After her withdrawal from service in 1935 she was launched for the Sheringham regattas and other festive occasions. She is now on display in an indoor museum in Sheringham.
Key dates
1894 Vessel was built by Lewis Emery at Sheringham 1897 Rescue of the brig ISPOLEN during a storm 1935 Withdrawn from service as lifeboat
 
DIMENSIONS
Breadth: Beam 11.25 feet (3.43 m) Depth 4.33 feet (1.32 m) Length: Overall 34.75 feet (10.60 m)     At 1:25 scale the model is just over 400mm long, 130mm wide and 52mm depth  The skeleton has been cut from 6mm liteply, they are only dry fitted at the moment. 
The reason for starting from scratch, quite a lot bigger, both the same scale!
I know this is a bit nichè but is a fond memory of my childhood by the sea. 
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers.

Managed to get the planking from the planksheer down to the wale done on both the port and starboard sides. Also got the upper part of the transom planked. Still have some finish sanding to do but I will wait until everything is planked. 

 

 
Tom

Finished planking the bulwarks. I pleased with how they came out. here is a couple of pics of the inboard and outboard sides. At 1:96, these are some pretty small planks. Good thing this isn’t a race 😜😂. 

 

 
Tom

Hi everyone
i managed to get the main rail installed. Next I will work on the top gallant rail and then start planking the bulwarks.
 

 
it is starting to resemble a boat hull! 😁
Tom

Hello.
Small update of work in the bow section.
The timbering at bow is not glued yet, because I have to do both main rails first.

 
To be continued ...

Some work in the bow section. Of course, all the elements are made of paper.
 

 

 

 

 
To be continued...

Hello.

I haven't been here for almost two years, but I'm still alive and so is my Victory. As you can see in the photos, I decided to change the concept of the model and make it with the lids closed. I saw a model made in such a way and I liked this „checkerboard pattern” on the the sides so much, that I decided to do it also in my ship. So there will be no visible guns on the two lower decks.
 

 

 
Before painting the model I've made the main, middle and upper wales on the sides.
 

 
In Victory the main wale was put on in „anchor stock” planking. Each plank was fashioned with a double taper from the center of one edge, so that the planks laid side by side looked something like the stock of the anchor (see pict. below)
 

 
The middle wale was put on in similar, but not the same pattern. One edge of the plank was tapered, but insted of the tapers being equal in length one was quite twice length of the other (see pict. below)



Some people may notice, that the shape of the planks I've made on the main wale is slightly different than on the other models. In many models, the main and the middle wale are arranged in the same way, as in the second picture. Various sources give different information about the arrangement of these planks. I made them according to the description given in Longridge's book. Interestingly, on the current ship you will not notice the wales arranged in the so-called anchor stock.
 
To be continued...
 

My suffering is over.😄 Never again. In my opinion it is not perfect, but it must remain so.
 





To be continued...

I've made knee of the head with holes for gammoning, bobstays and main stay collar, stern post and keel. 
 



To be continued...

A few photos of my current work. Only several details have been added such as four giant cleats for fore sheets and main tacks and the deck beams. Deck beams are not glued yet; they are just lying. I've decided to change the beakhead bulkhead and lower the door opening and the gunports; this detail was done improperly.

Laying planks came to an end; never again  . I used about 1350 planks of different lengths.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
To be continued...

Today's soap opera episode is about my way of marking planks on the ship's bottom. As the first step, a frame the longest in the circuit (a distance calculated from the lower edge of main wale to the keel) had been divided to 7 equal portions, each of 15 mm width. The last eighth section is about 12 mm width.
 

 
Then, using masking tape, I fixed temporarily the battens to the hull. The first batten was fixed 15 mm below main wale, the second 30 mm beneath main wale, the third 45 mm etc. After laying all the battens, I marked them on the hull with a pencil. After that I removed all the battens. This way I got eight long belts. Each of these belts will be first copied on tracin paper, then on the pressboard and finally the pressboard will be cut into single planks. 
 

 

 

 

 
Now a few words about how I share the long belts into single planks. For this I use the pattern shown below. The vertical line on the right side, shows the maximum width of the plank that is needed. 
 

 
The first thing is to put the triangular pattern onto the belt, previously drawn on the pressboard, so that the bottom edge of the belt come together the lowest, horizontal line of the triangular pattern. The second step is to move the pattern to the left or right, until the top edge of the belt will cross with the upper diagonal line of the pattern (the contact points are indicated by the arrows). The third is to mark the points in these spots, where diagonal lines crosses with the vertical line. So I follow until the end of belt. At these points where the belt is narrow (for example closer to the bow), the narrower part of the triangular pattern is put on the belt. In this way it is possible to smoothly taper single planks from their largest to the smallest width.
 

 
 
Finally I join the points marked on the pressboard. 
 

 

 
To be continued...
       

I’ve started laying planks on the sides. As a first step I’d set on the sides the lower edge of the main wale. Next, using tracing paper, I made a pattern corresponding to the shape of the main wale. Then I temporarily glued the pattern to the pressboard, which may seem a bit strange, from the inside of the pressboard, i.e. this side which is glued to the hull. Then I copied a shape of the main wale onto the pressboard and cut pressboard into single planks.
 


 
Now a few words about why I’m cutting the planks from the inside. Typically, the paper is cut from the outside, i.e. from the side visible after gluing the element. This time, leading the blade from the inside I’m doing this because of the shape of the blade and the tendency to "extend" the thick pressboard during cutting. The blade, as is well known, has a conical shape. When a pressboard is cut with a knife, in particularly pressboard having a thickness of at least 1 mm, a V-shape slot is forming between the cut edges. The slot on the upper surface of the cut pressboard is wider than at the bottom (upper drawing). When such planks are laid on the sides, the wider part of the gap is placed on the inner side (this glued to the hull) and due to the oval shape of the hull, internal, diagonal cutting edges of the planks, joins together almost without leaving a space between them. What is important, the wider part of a gap is not visible on the outside (this illustrates lower left drawing). If the pressboard were cut from the outside, on the sides would be visible V-shape gaps (smaller or larger). This shows lower right drawing. 
 




 
To be continued...

I've started laying the proper planks. It will be entirely made of pressboard, thickness 1 mm, cut into 3 mm strips, imitating planks. Cutting pressboard with a knife is a real nightmare, because it is as hard as wood. 
 

 
To be continued...

Small update before closing the stern. I made beams and added the map on the table. The next phase of work is laying the proper plating.