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bolin

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  1. Sure, a few pictures. The last one shows drawings for the ship in the second book. That ship has also been reconstructed in and sails with the name Sofia Linnea http://www.sofialinnea.se/ The drawings for the reconstruction can be found at https://digitaltmuseum.se/ by searching for "Sofia Linnea".
  2. Thanks for the advice on the drilling. I did check the dimension of the rod against the plan again. You where right Clare, it was to thick! The part number on the drawing actually points to a 1mm wire. However that seems to weak to keep its shape after I have tightened the lines (and also make drilling holes even harder). Fortunately I have a piece of 1.2 mm wire, and I decided to use that. It also corresponds almost exactly to the dimension on the drawing. Now I'm wondering where the rod I planned to use first is supposed to go... Drilling 0.5 mm holes with the pin wise turned out to be rather easy. I flattened the top with a file as Eamonn suggested and punched a small dent so that the drill would not wander about. Cheers
  3. A few days ago (Thursday) I received these in the mail Two books (in Swedish) about the boats of the Stockholm archipelago. The one on the left contains a lot of pictures and plans for several of the different types of boats. The one on the right describes the building of one particular boat, Greta Linnea, who came to be the last one ever built in 1921. These boats where once very common in Stockholm, but disappeared quickly in the time between the wars. The last one was cut up to firewood 1947. To my knowledge no kit exist for this type of boats, so if I where to build one it would be a scratch build.
  4. Thanks för the advice, I will test on a piece that I cut of from the rod. Cheers Tobias
  5. I have continued with preparing the masts et.c. I came as far as to mount dead eyes on the railing. The result is not as good as I hoped, to thick and a bit uneven. I took a pause to do something else wile I decide if I should redo, or not. So I started with another building for the quay, a facade for a factory. The printed sheets are glued to cardboard of different thickness... ...and is then cut out and assembled. The main mast is now almost ready for starting to attach lines and sails. Only the shroud spreader remains. According to the plan the shrouds should be tied around it, but I think there should be holes for the lines to go through. I don't have access to a drill press or similar, so I'm not sure how I should drill a 0,7 mm hole in a 2 mm rod... Cheers
  6. Thanks. Yes I have seen and read about some variants for material in furled sails. I’m particularly intrigued by silk span. However I have not been able to find any supplier here in Sweden, and orders from US seems to take forever at the moment, if at all possible. So I will start with my boiled linen an see how it turns out.
  7. Today I started with mounting the bowsprit. On the real ship this is easy to lift up (and on many picture it is lifted). This means that all the lines should be easy to loosen and tighten. For the lines to the sides its easy to understand how this is done. For the chain going down to the tip of the bowsprit to an eye bolt just above the water line I have not found an exact answer. The plans just indicates that the chains continues up to the railing, but gives no indications on how it is attached. None of the photos I could find has good enough resolution to make it clear. My solution was to run the chain through the starboard porthole and to the windlass. After this I continued with preparing the timber for the rigging by attaching blocks etc. The plan for the mizzen mast indicates that there is a turnbuckle to tighten the line going from the top to the bottom (I don't know what its called). There is no part for this in the kit so I built one from twisted wire that I covered in PVA glue. Here are all the pieces as they look now. There are a few things left to do, but soon I need to start with the sails. They probably need to be attached before the masts are stepped. As I want the sails to be furled I need to do some tests for the bulk. Maybe I need to reduce the sail area so that they don't look so bulky when furled. One thing is certain though, I will not touch the cloth provided in the kit. It is horribly thick and stiff, very far from any kind of scale appearance. Instead I plan to use some boiled linen that I have at hand, it is really soft and light. I also think that I will join the top mast to the main mast before I step it. Common practice seem to be to step the lower mast first, and then the topmast? In this case I think that It will be easier to get everything straight if assembled on the workbench first. Cheers Cheers
  8. I have no experience with using enamal on wood so I'm not sure exactly what happened to your paint. What I can see from your picture though it looks like the surface is still quite rough. I would suggest sanding it down with successively finer grain (maybe starting at 120 and going to 400) in three or four steps. Then apply a primer or sanding filler. There is a lot of discussion on these pages on this topic, there are several ways to go. Personally I mostly use shellac as primer but also have a cellulose based clear primer. A spray on primer as Jim T suggest above would also work well (and is probably easier to get hold of). Then use steel wool or a very find sanding paper on the primer to get a smooth surface for the paint. Plan for several (many) coats of thin paint. Thick coats are hard to get smooth. Cheers
  9. Thanks for the appreciation. I hope to continue with the boat tomorrow. Today I broke a plank and I’m now waiting for the glue to cure thoroughly in the repair before continuing.
  10. I'm very late to this party it seems, but really interesting to find your build log. I'm currently building the same kit as a replacement for the boat supplied in my build of the Thames sailing barge Will Everard (see my build log). Your progress is nice to see and an inspiration. It's curious that you did not get an English instruction. I bought my kit here in Sweden and I got a good English instruction in the kit.
  11. Today I thought that I should start with installing the lee boards on the hull. I have been a bit hesitant to begin this as it is the first step that include blocks and running ropes. I guess I have been a bit anxious that it will not turn out good. But, nothing will be done unless you start. However I realized that I should add the decals on the hull first, as it will be harder when the lee boards are in place. When I brought them out, I realized that it was actually the first time I had taken a good look at them. I thought that they would be the kind that you put in water. They turned out to be more like stickers printed on transparent plastic. As can be seen they are also rather glossy. I debated a while with my self if I should try to paint the lines and text instead. I decided that it would probably be OK if I just cut the strips exactly at the printed border and if I coated it with matte varnish. Then, when I started to place the stickers, I realized that they did not match the plans or the photos on the box of the kit. These must have been changed at some update of the kit without changing the plans or photos. I decided on something that fits and looks OK. Then I started with the lifting lines for the lee boards. I decided on black cord to simulate steel wire. I think I managed OK with adding the blocks and attaching a small hook to it. But I realized that I should probably construct or invest in some kind of "third hand" apparatus for further rigging work. Its hard to hold everything with tweezers when seizing the lines. So this is how she looks now with the decals and the lee boards. I also added the eye bolts for shrouds, fore stay and some of the running rigging. And a picture of the boat. Cheers
  12. Testing on a scrap piece is good. I have used paper towels as well, it also works. You might want to thin the oil with white spirit or turpentine, it makes it flow better an enter the wood more. If I just want a surface coat I would use the oil directly on the cloth an wipe it on to get a thin coat. Only apply thin layers, linseed cures very slowly. If it’s to thick it will never cure and remain sticky forever. The important thing to remember is that the linseed oiled cloth could self ignite after you have used it. I have never seen it happen, or never heard of anyone seeing it, but it is still a possible danger. Let it dry in a well ventilated place without any flammable material close. I usually just put the rag outside somewhere.
  13. Back again! After a few weeks of other projects taking up my time I'm back with Will (and the diorama). I have several things to continue working on, painting the quay and the bottom of the river, building more houses for the quay side, stepping the masts, etc. But I have decided to go on another detour. I'm not very happy with the boat supplied in the kit. It does not look correct to the scale. Instead I hope to replace it with a boat built from a kit by Master Korabel. The instruction is much larger, and weighs more than the actual material in the kit 😃. The laser cut pear wood is very nicely done and detailed. With such small items, the building is rather quick. First a plug to build the hull on. The material for this is much cheaper and quite brittle. But The frames are soaked and bent into the slots in the keel and the plug. Very thin dimensions and easy to break. Thankfully Master Korabel has included spare strips for the frames in the kit. I only managed to destroy one, so I feel very proficient today 😀 Overall I'm impressed by the quality of the kit and the instructions. The design of the kit really makes it possible (but not easy) to work with such small details as this. Cheers
  14. In this case "snit" does not actually mean "lay flat", but it points out the cuts in the drawing. The cut L-M is indicated on the drawing (see the letters above and below). And the corresponding frame The text below says "cut L-M seen from the fore". Cheers

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