Jump to content

bolin

NRG Member
  • Posts

    348
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About bolin

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Many small things has been done since the last update. The rudder has been completed. The tiller is made of walnut rather than lime. I was afraid that the lime would have been to soft. I have also made the pump. This is of a very simple type, just a simple handle to pull. It is placed where the skipper can work it while also handling the sails and rudder. I have also started the mast, boom and gaff. Before I install the mast and rig the lines and sail I will make the stand. For this I plan to use supports in plexiglass which will sit on a bottom plate of oak.
  2. There seem to have been several different types of windlasses used on these boats. This very simple version seem to have used the handles as breaks by pushing them through the holes an stopping at the deck.
  3. Its time for another update. The cabin is complete with beds for the skipper and his mate. The bed cloth is made from painted silk span. It has been draped around a mattress made from a piece of lime wood. I have also built a windlass.
  4. The deck has been stained to give it a worn and aged look. I have also planked the insides of the bulwarks in the bow, and have painted it green. The green color is supposed to be traditional. The small hold in the bow has been given a coming and a hatch. The ring is 0.3 mm copper wire which has been painted. A loop of sewing thread through a hole in the hatch holds the ring in place. The forward bulkhead of the cabin has been installed and painted.
  5. I used acrylic glass (plexiglass) 3mm thick. I used ordinary hand tools to cut it: a Japanese type saw and a plane to smooth the edges afterwards. The frame was made from 10 by 10 mm ribs, and the slots for the panes where cut using a hand held router.
  6. With the cross beams as support I have continued with the deck. Most of the hold is open with only narrow planks along the sides for walking on. These planks where edge bent using a jig and a small traveling iron. It took several steps until the strips could fit the full length of the sides. The rest of the deck consists of many small pieces that where individually fitted.
  7. I return to this model now that my Medieval long ship is finished. The cross beams and supporting knees has been installed, and a bit more of the cabin structure has been added.
  8. Thank you all for the kind words. I think that what I mostly feel now is satisfaction. Satisfaction that the model turned out the way it did and that I was able to complete it. I will now finish my Sloop from Roslagen. That one I started before this, with the more or less explicit intent to use it as practice for clinker hull and scratch building. I think it was a necessary step in practicing my skills to be able to complete this, which was the one I wanted to build.
  9. I would suggest not to stack anything in the middle on top of the thwarts. The area around the mast needs to be free when handling the sail, and its quite dangerous to have something that you could stumble on when doing so. If you are not readying for a immediate fight, the shields could probably be stored below the deck. Food and other necessities stored in water tight barrels under the deck would be likely, as would having the midships area under the thwarts filled with packets in oil cloth as you have proposed.
  10. By this post I declare the model of the reconstruction Helga Holm of the ship 5 in the archeological excavations at the Helgeands islet finished. It has been a very enjoyable, albeit at time tedious, journey. And I'm quite happy with the result. Thank you everyone who has followed, commented and supported with advice and encouragement. You have been a great help.
  11. All the lines and reef points has been added to the sail. To shape the sail I have rigged it up and painted diluted PVA glue that hopefully will dry to a ok shape. The wrinkles should also smooth out as the sail dries.
  12. Roger, thanks for sharing your tips regarding paper sails. If my current sail doesn’t turn out satisfactory I will use your tips for the next try.
  13. I'm working on the sail. I have decided to try making it of thin paper that is painted with acrylic for a strength and color. I have tried several different papers, with different results. From left to right in the picture below: Pattern making paper for sewing (I have a life time supply), silk span, rice paper. Of these the pattern making paper looked best. The silk span wrinkled to easily, and the rice paper was to easy to damage. I'm looking for a worn look on the sail, similar to this. And this is so far as I have come.
×
×
  • Create New...