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  1. The garboard plank looks good. The next plank looks a bit to high on the transom though, but its hard do see in picture.
  2. The riveting is now mostly complete on one side. I have built an inverted hedgehog 😀 Now I will continue with adding the washers. I ended with selecting black card stock (120g/m2) for these. They are cut as 1x1 mm squares and I use a metal pin to push a 0.5 mm hole. The rivets are about 0.3 mm so its not to hard to get the washers in place. I will put a drop of dilute glue under to fix them and then cut away the pin.
  3. Thanks Keith! Per, maybe I should put that at the top of the mast? I have continued with the frames. It's getting closer now. I'm still not totally satisfied, there are still to much gap between the hull and some of the frames.
  4. Unfortunately the smell is hard to get right. But on the other hand the rivets are plastic, so I think I shouldn’t be so picky. I will probably scrub certain parts where the tar has been worn off, such as the oarlocks and thwarts.
  5. Thank you @Gaffrig, @Kingfisher317 and @Dr PR. Your input is very helpful when trying to understand what I see when studying various pictures and plans that can be found in books and on the Net. I will check out the references mentioned, some of them I already have, but some are new to me. I have one point I’m still wondering about. If you have a brail to lift up the tack of the topsail, would there be two tack lines going down? One on port and one or starboard so that the tack can be pulled down on the other side when the sheet has been pulled over.
  6. I think that I have found most of my answers in COMMODORE S. B. LUCEs Text-Book of Seamanship with the relevant section here. The most relevant part says: If I understand the nautical terms it means that seamen must go aloft and shift the sail there.
  7. I have started some research for a future project, and have come across a question that I hope someone could help me shed light on. I have taken over a started build of Billing Boats Meta, which in the kit is presented as a three masted jackass barque. However I plan to modify it to be the original configuration, a thee masted fore-and-aft rigged schooner. What running lines are needed to control both the stay sails and the topsails on the main and fore masts in the following sail plan? How are the sails handled when tacking? Is the topsails lifted over the stays? How? I recen
  8. And now the hull has been "tarred". I think the stain turned out OK Compare for example with the pictures that @Mike Y shared earlier in this thread. The slightly uneven coloration looks quite realistic. I do plan to put a coat of dark shellac on top, so it will be become even darker. In the end my mix was 3 parts light oak, 1 part mahogany, 1 part ebony stains and 5 parts water. The riveting has also started.
  9. Yes, there will be 14 full frames, and 3 cant frames in the fore and aft. These where working crafts built for transporting heavy loads, so they needed to be sturdy.
  10. This build has been somewhat neglected lately in favor of my medieval long-ship. But today I found the inspiration to continue with fitting the frames. My method includes a lot of filing, checking the fit an file some more. It both helps and is a problem that I use Lime wood for this model. It is soft and filing goes quickly, but it is as quick when doing a mistake. Only the first an last frames are glued yet. I will wait with gluing the rest until I have them all and can check that they are spaced evenly.
  11. A very interesting approach to finding the angles of the planks. The result looks good as well.
  12. The method that @wefalck suggest works well when the planks are reasonably wide (above 5 mm or so). I used it on my medieval long ship. When the planks are narrower and more numerous its start to be hard, so on my sloop I am using a method similar to what @Wintergreen is showing, it is much less accurate.
  13. Nice and clean work. Well done. Glues seem to be an never ending topic for discussion here. I’m not familiar with UHU sekundkleber, but I guess it’s a super glue (CA). That’s what I usually use for joining wood and metal. I only use epoxy when the bond needs to be extra strong.
  14. I think it’s worth the effort to correct the frame placement. You could test how the planks would run with the current placement, but it’s probably better to follow the plans. When I built this model I remember that the angles between the planks and the placement of the frames where quite important.
  15. All the rivets are now ready for installation! In between the sessions with preparing them I have started on some other parts, to be installed later. That is rudder, tiller, mast and yard. The mast has a "bulge" around the hole for the halyard will be a stop for the shrouds. Yesterday I also received a package with some dark stains that might look like tar. I have experimented with some mixes and found that three parts light oak stain mixed with one part ebony stain and eight parts water starts to look OK. That is the lowest right piece in the picture
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