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Paragraf

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  1. Wallace. If I can add something to what I have already written, it would be good if you drew the lines on the hull before coppering. These lines will set the course of individual rows of copper plates and what is important, will show how the copper plates will be arranged at the stern part of the hull. This will allow you to avoid the mistake I made and I had to correct it. I draw the individual rows using the pressboard strip with a width slightly smaller than the width of the copper plate. This width is smaller due to the overlap that needs to be made. Only the first row, this one at the waterline, must have the same width as the width of the copper plate because it is not overlap on any row above or below. I applied this strip to the hull and marked on it the course of each row of plates. In this way I saw how they are arranged, whether they will be arranged parallel to the keel and how they are arranged on the stern.
  2. Wallace. Yes, I'm continuing my build. Unfortunately, the work goes slowly because the day is too short to work at the model every day. Now I'm making the wales and preparing the hull for painting. By the way, the description of coppering the hull is based on the Longridge's and McGowan's books.
  3. Wallace. You have started the most boring stage of work.😊 Fortunately, I already have it behind me. In my humble opinion, however, you should put the copper plates in a different way. 1) At the Victory, the cooper plates were laid in two belts, of which the upper belt consists of 12 rows of plates. Only 5 bottom rows of the upper belt are in contact with the stem, while the remaining 7 rows are in contact with the waterline. 2) The copper plates on the sides are laid horizontally, corresponding more or less to the layout of the planks. In each row the plates are arranged in such a way, that the upper edge of the lower plate overlaps the lower edge of the plate above and the rear edge of the plate closer to the bow overlaps the front edge of the plate closer to the stern. This means that the plates should be laid from the stern towards the bow and from the waterline towards the keel. You have started laying plates from the keel to the waterline. 3) Before laying the plates on the sides, they should be placed on the stern stem so that the side plates can overlap the stern stem plates. Copper plating of the keel and stem must be made as the last. 4) Plates fixed to the keel shall be laid parallel to the waterline and the plates arranged on the vertical part of the stern stem should be arranged perpendicular to the waterline. The plates laid on the stem and on the keel should overlap the plates previously laid on the sides. Laying the plates on the keel should also be started from the stern. The plates laid on the bottom part of the keel and on the front edge of the both stems are gently curled on the side plates. 5) It should be noted, that the arrangement of plates fixed on both stems does not coincide with the rows of plates on the sides, i.e. they do not constitute an extension of the rows of side rows. Laying the copper plates on the Victory, the top belt consisting of 12 rows of plates should be placed as the first. Next, the rows of plates from the lower belt should be laid, starting of course from the stern. At the bow, these plates will rise up, so you have to cut them. But enough to play a wise guy.😉 The decision as to how to make the coppering is of course Yours. If you want, you can look how I coppered the hull and what were the problems with it. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/402-hms-victory-by-paragraf-%E2%80%93-shipyard-%E2%80%93-card-%E2%80%93-196/page/3/ I hope my mistakes will help you lay the copper plates properly.
  4. My suffering is over.😄 Never again. In my opinion it is not perfect, but it must remain so. To be continued...
  5. State of works for today. Copper plates on the port side. Copper plates on the sterboard (arranged the upper belt of plates). Bow part of the port side. To arrange each rows of copper plates precisely, I marked their identical course on both sides. A few stealers need to be laid in the aft part of the ship. I've made a kind of "shirt" to protect arranged copper surface. To be continued...
  6. Today, the thing is not about the progress in building, but about why sometimes you need to destroy something to make it good. After gluing the plates I realized that I had started laying the copper cover too close to the stern. The copper strips should run here more or less according to the layout of the planks. In the picture below, I marked the correct layout with violet lines. Continuing laying of plates in this way, would cause their improper arrangement on the stern and in the bottom part. In the picture below you can see, that in the central part of the hull there is still enough space for 20 rows of plates, while in the part closer to the stern there is space only for 15 rows of plates. This way of laying would cause, that copper plates in the bottom part, at the keel, would be laid diagonally (lines of navy blue color), despite that they should be parallel (red lines) to keel, like planks. Therefore, I removed a large piece of copper plates (something about 200 pieces) and I'm gonna lay them again. Plates, according to a new calculations (I hope this time correct) I will start to lay from the point marked with a red arrow; I also marked the previous point from which I started laying - using a violet arrow. To be continued....
  7. Coppering the hull. Before coppering, using a highly specialized tool, I marked the waterline, which is also the upper border for copper plates. Despite of the primitive method, it goes straight. The belt between the waterline and the lower border of the main wale (which will be laid in the future) I’ve painted black. Coppering is made from Ventura Tape copper foil, with black adhesive. Before cutting the strips imitating copper plates, I fastened a longer strip of copper (about 135 mm) to the cutting mat using a masking tape. Next step was to make an imitation of nailing; I used Trumpeter's rivet maker with densely spaced teeth (by Trumpeter marked with letter „A”) for nailing on the edges, and for nailing in the middle with less frequent teeth (marked as No. „D”). So prepared copper strips I cut - using a small jig – to plates of the correct length, specifically 13 mm.
  8. I've made knee of the head with holes for gammoning, bobstays and main stay collar, stern post and keel. To be continued...
  9. Small update. I've made the ladders, leading from the upper to the middle deck. Firstly I'd drawn the cheeks of the ladders, marking them under the appropriate angle (60 degrees), as a mirror image. Then, I glued croswide the painted straps of the pressboard; I set the distance between the straps by means of a spacer strip, corresponding to the thickness of the step. After sticking all the horizontal straps a kind of Christmas tree appeared. Then I cut off the cheeks of the ladders, cutting down on the lines drawn previously; It created a kind of comb with the slots in which I finally glued the steps.
  10. Amateur. As for now, most of the parts are made by myself but kit is used as the pattern for cuting the elements. Perhaps I should change the topic for "Based on Shipyard - Card - 1:96"
  11. A few photos of my current work. Only several details have been added such as four giant cleats for fore sheets and main tacks and the deck beams. Deck beams are not glued yet; they are just lying. I've decided to change the beakhead bulkhead and lower the door opening and the gunports; this detail was done improperly.
  12. Thank all of you for your compliments. Work still goes on, slowly but forward. Soon I'll show some update. The work is dragging like a turtle because there is not enough time to building the model. Additionally I decided to destroy some part of the current work and make corrections. I changed, for example, the look of the beakhead bulkhead and improved the gunports on the upper deck, which after the painting looked ugly. Modlerbob. Banding card planks is for certain easier than wooden, but cutting them is much more difficult because it’s been done handly. It really hurts
  13. Laying planks came to an end; never again . I used about 1350 planks of different lengths. To be continued...
  14. All gratings of the upper deck ... and in the right place on the deck. To be continued
  15. The first grating. Frame made from pressboard, painted with burnt umbra. To be continued....

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