adivedog

Haven't gotten much done the last four days. Have been pondering over how I'm going to do the planking. I took off the garboard plank I had glued on and am in the process of starting over. For every step forward it's two steps back, but  I'm not going to get in a hurry.  Actually, after taking off the planks. I have beveled more of the false keel, with a slight bevel all the way just past frame 7. That should help the 2nd plank fit better against the garboard especially at #7.
And have done a little more shaping to get everything better aligned.
 
After gluing the garboard plank on starboard side this morning ( hopefully for the last time), I was going through the plans and noticed I didn't put in the bulkheads for the lower decks. I stained them and managed to get them in.
 
So now, if all goes well, will get on with the planking. the frames are marked so hopefully things will start to move.
 
By the way, printed the fan and used it to mark the frames. Turned out, it was easy to do. I used card stock for frame length, transferred marks to card and then put them on the frame.

I too am on my first build and have always been impatient when getting on a project, but surprisingly have been a lot better now with the model. I find myself doing a lot of research and looking at other swift logs to see how others did it.  Still seems like I learn something everyday and the more I do the more I enjoy it.  I'm sure you have looked at a lot of logs too, but when stumped on something, just ask, there are a lot of great people on here that will help and usually respond  quickly. 
 
You're doing a great job on the Carmen

Keith, as to the fan, hadn't thought of that. i was going to put a piece of tape on the frames to measure down each frame then divide by 5 (mm)
 
I'll check the forum to find a template for the fan and see better how it works. I have seen it used but didn't pay enough attention to see how it works.

I'm working on the garboard and 2nd plank. Nothing glued yet, but would like some other input as to what I'm thinking of doing.
 
I tried the rounded end on the garboard like Keith did but was having trouble fitting #2 without a lateral bend. So this morning I used a more spile like cut on garboard and used cut a 6.5 mm wide piece of basswood, then cut it to 5mm except for the end which is notched to fit the garboard. Then no lateral bend.
The only thing I think needs to be changed is to cut a wider plank so the end that is notched will go up a little farther keeping the rest at 5mm.
 
Any ideas ?

 
Stopped #2 in the middle of #5
 

 
After the 2nd plank is fitted, will mark of the frames for the rest.

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to mark the frames and restart. Actually, I haven't really started though, just practicing.
 
I see what your both saying about the taper on the bow end of the planks.
 
I may have to get the grog out for this

Looking Good John
and this "WILL" turn out to be more fun then you thought.
 
Just a few thoughts
You will find as you work your way down the planking, that the bending will take less time then the shaping involved in the narrowing of the planks and the beveling of the edges so the planks sit flush against each other. It you have access to a syringe, they make great and fast glue applicators and its easy to blunt the tip with a file, by filing a notch and breaking off the tip. I say this as I would suggest running a bead of PVA between plank edges so the planks are attached to each other as well as the frames.
 
If you can't find access to a syringe.... Tammy works in an OR and has access to unused left overs they pitch. The 10ml control syringes with finger loops are nice and when capped the glue keep indefinitely like in a bottle. Just send a PM if needed. 
 
Congrat's on the first plank, now prepare for a nice twist on that garboard
 
Also, are you planning to use a planking fan to mark the plank thicknesses on the bulkhead's. IIRC I did that after getting the top and garboards on. I found this invaluable for shaping and narrowing each plank. Taking the extra time to do the first planking  well, I discovered that 2nd planking really just is more work.
My San Francisco kit, which is one of the ones that comes with double planking... after the second planking I purchased wood to single plank it and save the hassle of planking twice. The newer kit comes single planked and I've seen some beautiful planking jobs (Randy's come to mind - AKA lamarvalley)

Got the two top planks on today. In order to bend the planks, I tried two methods. One was soaking and using a large hose clamp and the second was to use a hair straightener. Got the straightener at a dollar store for about $15. This was by far the best way. Had to wait overnight for the clamp piece to dry, the straightener dried it as it went, and was pretty easy and quick.

Oops, hit post instead of more options.
 
Heres the clamp method. The bend was great, just takes too long.
 

 

 
Heres the straightener
 

 

 
Just turn it on, set to medium, press together and pull toward the bend and done.
 
Top plank glued on. Spiled the planks at the bow.  Used ca to attach to frame, pva for the fillers.
 

 
Ran the line down about 3mm below top of frames.  Just got back from checking on it, and found the larboard plank at the bow was too high, so just fixed that. Now both side are even.  Will tackle the garboard tomorrow.
This may turn out to be more fun than I thought.

Heres a picture of the main deck stained. There must be quite a difference in the density of the wood, as the stain really soaked into some areas more than others. But that will give it some character.
 

 
The planks for the hull were too long for anything I had in the garage to soak in, so made a soaker out of PVC plastic pipe. Then made a cap for the end to push the plank all the way into the water. When the cap is taken off the end of the plank floats out of the pipe.
 

 

 
Have spent the last couple of days fairing the frames. Also had to shim frame 7 on both sides then sand to size. Also, had to shim the top of frame 4 to even out the main deck. Which meant, using alcohol to loosen the deck then sliding in the shim and re glueing.
 

I made the layout of the deck and put the butt joints in. Still uncertain as to what I'll do. I like the different shades of basswood on the deck. Am leaning towards, just leaving it as is. Will wait until tomorrow and decide for sure, after these thunderstorms get out of here.
 

 

Thanks guys.
 
I planked the main deck last night and have been having a brain freeze ever since.  I ran the planks the full length, and liked the way it looks.
Then I started to over think it. In the early 1800's they would have had to nail the planks, so thought maybe I should go ahead and put in butt joints. I've looked at several build logs and the way they were done. One had ( I think way to many joints) another none. So, haven't decided what to do yet. If they nailed the planks they sure didn't have a false deck so would have had to nail them where the bulkheads were under the planks. If i used just the bulkheads that run across under the deck, there would only be three butt joints running all the way across. The picture on the box shows the planks running full length with no joints, but figure that was just to show a finished model.
 
If I stained it with the stain I used on the lower decks it wouldn't make any difference as dark as it is.
 
I'm going to go out in the garage and make a template of the deck using the cut out and see what I can come up with. Will post some pictures later.

John:
 
For some photos of the process, see the first page of my log.
 
I used a piece of masking tape to measure the distance to be planked on each bulkhead. I placed the tape on a given bulkhead using a longer piece of tape and then marked the deck line on the tape and the top edge of the keel. Then I took the tape off and laid it out flat. Now, I measured the total distance between the two marks and divided that by the number of planks from deck to keel in the hull. That gave me the width each plank on that bulkhead. Now replace the tape on the bulkhead with part of the bulkhead showing and transfer the marks for the width of each plank onto the bulkhead. I repeated this operation for each bulkhead and now I have the width and shape of each plank laid out on the bulkheads. I did this along the angle of the bow and for the stern frame as well. I do this for both sides of the hull.
 
When I planked this hull, I did not use any premilled strips, I cut each plank out of a sheet of basswood. These can be gotten for a few bucks at your local hobby or crafts store. I got mine from Hobby Lobby. I used white card stock for spiling and tapering each plank.
 
Cut a piece of card stock just a little longer than you first plank at the deck at the bow. Make sure it is somewhat wider than you need as well. Hold or tape it against the hull so that its edge sticks up above the deck. Now, run a pencil along the edge of the deck against the card. This is the upper edge of your first plank. Now, cut the card to that line. Mark the bulkheads that your first plank crossed on the card and measure from each bulkhead the widths of the first plank on the card, using the upper edge of that plank on the card as you reference line. Do it for the bow rabbet as well. Once you have these widths marked on the card, connect the dots. Now you have the shape of your first plank. Decide where the butt end of the plank will occur.
 
Now, cut the card to that shape and check it against the hull to make sure you have got the shape exactly as it is laid out on the bulkheads. If it has been done carefully, all is correct. Lay the card on a piece of basswood and trace the shape. Cut the plank out and use the card template as a guide to fine tune the shape of the plank. You can leave the plank a little long until you are ready to fit and glue it in place. If you need to soak the plank to get it to bend easier, that is no problem. I held mine under hot water from the faucet for a minute or so and then clamped it in place on the hull and let it dry. Once it was dry, the plank held its shape well enough that I was able to glue it place, using my fingers to hold it for a few seconds while the glue set enough.
 
For planks that have their edge against another plank, use the card again as a template and use a compass to trace the edge of the plank above onto the card. You can connect the dots to get that edge shape for your next plank. That is spiling. Then you can measure the widths as before to get the bottom edge of that next plank. That is tapering.
 
Where you have a bulkhead in the stern that does not extend down to the keel, draw lines extending that bulkhead's position on the deadwood down to the keel. Your measuring tape will need to cover that distance since planks will fill that area.
 
Let me know if you need anything further.
 
Russ

Got the deck glued yesterday.
 

 
Thought I was going to have to shim some of the starboard bulkheads , as the deck overlapped the frames by about 1/16 of an inch. So I ran a center line and lines across the frames and started measuring with my calipers. come to find out the deck was wider on that side. I'm sure the center line was correct, so just sanded the edges down to the frames.
 

 

Keith I want to thank you and Russ for your replies.
 
Usually when I start a project, I don't want to stop until its finished, but have found that this hobby has brought out the patience I wasn't sure I had. I enjoy not having to rush, or to glue something and have to wait until the next day. The more I do, the more I am enjoying it. Other than diving, this is probably the most calming thing I've ever done.
 
I'm sure I'll be needing some advice in the near future on the planking. Maybe I'll get lucky.

Just finished rubber banding the main deck to the frame to shape it. Now will wait until tomorrow to see if it holds.
 
Was going to soak with wet paper towels in microwave as suggested by CannonFodder, but decided to use a 22 inch baking pan. Sorry about the photo, forgot to switch from manual focus to auto.
 

 

 
So tomorrow I can glue the deck,  then the fun begins, planking the deck. 
 
 

Just finished rubber banding the main deck to the frame to shape it. Now will wait until tomorrow to see if it holds.
 
Was going to soak with wet paper towels in microwave as suggested by CannonFodder, but decided to use a 22 inch baking pan. Sorry about the photo, forgot to switch from manual focus to auto.
 

 

 
So tomorrow I can glue the deck,  then the fun begins, planking the deck. 
 
 

Thanks Gabe
 
I wish I had the room to put a rabbet.  Might be able to on the stern half.  I just hope I get this finished before 27 years.

Today, I shaped the Bow filler and stern filler. I was a little worried about this part, afraid I might screw it up somehow, then have to take them out, but everything went well. Did have a little concern with the stern, but think it will work. Mostly used a rasp and sanders I made out of paint stir sticks and dowel rods. ( Thanks Keith )
 

 

 

 
Have made and glued fillers to go between frames 2 & 3. So have to wait until tomorrow to continue.
 
 

Got on the fillers yesterday, glued in the bow and stern.
 
Before glueing, I formed them using my bandsaw and belt sander. Figured this would help with the shaping and am glad I did.
 

 

 
 

Today, I shaped the Bow filler and stern filler. I was a little worried about this part, afraid I might screw it up somehow, then have to take them out, but everything went well. Did have a little concern with the stern, but think it will work. Mostly used a rasp and sanders I made out of paint stir sticks and dowel rods. ( Thanks Keith )
 

 

 

 
Have made and glued fillers to go between frames 2 & 3. So have to wait until tomorrow to continue.
 
 

Thanks everyone.  It was a fun build
 
Schnu, no found the lantern in a small fishing kit in a hobby shop, ( in doll house section ) but did make the pirate chest. And I bought the pirate on ebay.

Thanks again Keith, that makes sense.  I'll take another picture of the bulkheads on the new model so you can see how they fit as to relationship to the keel.
I think AL upgraded the kit a lot from what I've read about the old one. My keel was straight, the bulkhead fit well and only had to work on one of them. Most of them are aligned fairly well to.
 
I appreciate your help. Thanks again

Thanks Keith, I got most of what you're saying.
 
So, it's all right for frames 2 and 3 to be flush with the keel ?
 
Am in the process of putting in the balsa fillers on bow, stern and between 2 & 3.

While waiting for the frames to finish glueing. Worked on the lower decks.
 

 
Used a dental pick to punch holes for treenails
 

 

 
Then used mechanical pencil to mark holes, by twisting in the holes.
 

 
Then used Provincial Stain to do the deck. Tested several stains, and liked this one the best. You can see the difference of staining because of the difference in the planks. Plus my lighting wasn't the best either.
 

 
 

Started glueing the frames. So will be slow going for the next few days.
 

 

 
I'm sure everyone has somewhere they keep they're clamps. I got a couple of paint stir sticks and fixed to my work area.
A gallon stick on the left of my work area for clothes pins and the right side a 5 gallon stir stick for other clamps.