NMBROOK

Build log part 12
 
 
 
The ultimate GF 2 actual Version has rivited plates to the frames and also welded plates for horizontal seams. As I do not exactly know to what degree the riviting was in 1958 when launched, I "rivited" the entire models hull. Perhaps someone may now better...
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 13 to follow.....
 
Nils

Build log part 11
 
 
 
 
 

the ladder like fields dimensions orientate on the grating (later fitted) measurements
 

the boatrack supports are screwed done under the same screws as the pinrack rails
 

welldeckview looking foreward
 

the functional flip launching boards shall take up the inflatable raft Containers (here closed)
 

here flipped open, also the Center Support deck to boatrack Support can be seen
 

here the plating of the hull Begins. The main plating to be seen in the next build log part
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 12 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 10
 
 
 
 
 

main work on the hull done now, ready for the plating
 

Crew rest racks
 

bulwarks still Need upper handrails
 

soldered brass jib boom fitted in and angle checked
 

handrail for bow bulwark
 

bow view of hull bump rails
 

rather "empty" decks
 

 
 

 

Fitting in for the racks of the boatstation
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 11 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 9
 
 
 
 

time to do the hull outside rails, use semiround 1 x 2mm nutwood here
 

gives o nice border to the deck
 

get the parallel distance to the first rail
 

the Pins do`nt go through the rails, because of using CA here there would`nt be enough time for pushing the Pins in after Fixing the position
 
 

 
 

propshaft claddings attached
 
 

the lowest rail is the most tricky one
 

 
 

rails completed, hull not so naked anymore
 
 

this is the actual stand
 
 
 
 
Build log part 10 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 8
 
 
 
 

planking and sanding done, but hull Looks a bit naked
 

the stand is just a universal old one....
 

doing the bowpost using fexible beechwood ( is quite hard and flexible at the same time)
 

 
 

further on to the mid keel it gets a bit broader in order to integrate the stand bolts safely
 

propwindow, outcut reinforcement and rudder Arrangement with shaft going through to deck level
 

the rudder remains removeable by pulling out the lower bearing pin, the shaft can be pushed up
 

 
 

use figures in scale 1:87 (H0)
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 9 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 7
 
 
 
 

building up the bulwarks
 

and top Planks at forecasle
 

Need to pull equal on portside as well
 

the upper Stern Portion shall be planked verticly
 

bow bulwark planked verticly and roughly trimmed
 

 
 

all planking done, now the sanding can begin
 
 
 

vertical planking provides nice following of the curves
 
 

smooth finish, no dents, no scratches...
 

remaining material on sternpost appr. 50% of the raw planking, other planking random about 75-80 %
 
 
 
 
Build Log part 8 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 6
 
 
 

this ship was not designed to be a cargo vessel
 

planking good under way
 

time for checking if no sub-deck Counters have been forgotten...
 
 

 
 

 

finaly the last fit to size plank Closes the opening
 

should be a fine base surface for sanding, due to the single layer planking, the Progress goes on quite swiftly
 
 

14 Planks per side, keel to welldeck
 

still quite easy going..
 

The Planks that also form the bulwarks are mounted
 
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 5
 
 
 
 

the first portside plank, pine 2 x 10mm, is fixed against the Frames to find the best fit in its gentle natural curve following the hull lines
 

and then glued on permanently
 

the second plank follows willingly
 

on this build I am not using additional stringers
 
 

the same done on starboard side to avoid possible Twist in the hull
 

the Gorch Fock is a fine model to plank, no risky bends, no watering of planks
 

the 2mm thick planking will allow sufficient material remaining after sanding later on
 
 

having no Problems with the planking
 

short propshaft in sleeve tube M3 thread for prop (the brass prop to be Exchanged against a larger one later on, because I cold`nt find a 28-30mm diam. brass prop with M3 thread in the hub)
 

Counter device for stand bolts with reinforced keel sides there
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 3
 
 
 
 
 

poopdeck eyelets
 

preparing for the welldeck pinrails
 

These pinrails are designed to withstand Forces initiated by the later rig
 

wear sections of the pinrails bear brass inserts
 

 

 

eyelets for foremast shrouds and backstays
 

especially the eyelets for the shrouds and backstays have to be well countered from beneath the decK
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 tofollow....
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
 
 

the decks are checked if all Planks are free of marks
 

and checked for fit in the foreseen places
 

poopdeck bulkhead and midship deckhouse get paint and portholes
 

stairs checked, doors, handrails mounted
 

 

 

 
 

the many eyelets are placed and secured from under the decks
 

Frames look OK so far
 

mantaining the deck curvature while the glue is curing
 
 
 
 
Build log part 3 to follow....
 
Nils

Sailing ship, threemast-barque Gorch Fock 2 in scale 1:95
 
Introduction to this build by Nils Langemann
 
When choosing my first tallship for modeling, the choise for either Gorch Fock 2 or for Pamir was not so easy, so finally I decided to build both, the Gorch Fock 2 to begin with, and the other to follow on in staggered time schedule.
The Gorch Fock 2 is the follower of the still existing german Gorch Fock 1 and bearing the original Name again (ex russian Tovarisch, now towed to the pier in Stralsund harbour, Baltic sea), which had several sisterships, one of them being the still serving USS Eagle of the US Coast Guard.
 
GF 2 was launched 1958 at Hamburg Blohm & Voss shipyard, build N° 804 and to be used as a cadet training ship for the German Navy, Bundesmarine. She since then, and after several updates in look and techniques does her duty bravely. She is well known on the seven seas and in many ports. She is also participating in many “Operation Sail” events and to be seen amoungst other tallships.
 
Compared with the ultimate version of today I preferred to model the 1960 ties version for its more interesting look, with the more nostalgic looking boats and the motorized commanders launch. The model should be carrying all 23 sails and be fully rigged, if I would manage to do so. The ships hull in actual and in model is representing more the look of a large yacht, because of the slim fine lines and the missing cargo holds.
The ultimate version differs in color, has a larger oval shaped funnel, more modern navigation equipment, a variable pitch propeller, larger portholes (safety reasons, allows a man passing through !!) and modern rescue- and lifesaving equipment. Also a side-thrust prop was fitted in the bow Sub waterline section, as well as many inside fitting out updates.
When looking out for a suitable plan to build the model from scratch, I found a lonesome set of frames in correct scale at an Ebay auction and decided to trim and update these for my project. I saved myself some plywood-cutting-out right at the beginning, that gained some time for doing other things. The other data and rating I found in some GF2 related books, and besides that at that time, I still had a wonderful rare scale 1:150 GF 2 Kit in Plastic by Revell, that had never been built nor started, but representing a very useful pattern for enlargement to scale 1:95 (rating wise)
I started gathering all information and pictures of details I could get, and started to lay the keel. It should take me appr. 1,5 years to finalize the model. Many experienced techniques could be addopted to the Pamir build whereby not so good results on GF2 modeling techniques could be avoided or improved.
 
Have fun in exploring this build log
 
Nils
 
 

unmistakeable, the white barque with the golden flying Albatros figurehead, which had to be replaced several times when going lost in rough trips
 
 

The since WW1 late german writer, Johann Wilhelm Kienau, pseudonyme "Gorch Fock" is the name giver to this vessel
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log Part 1
 
 

I tried to get a better print into this Formate, but not possible at this framerate
 

SSS stands for Segel-Schul-Schiff on the nameplate
 

the single Frames contours would not allow 2-dimentional deck curvature, so the Basic Support was done this way
 

the decks are from 1,5 mm aero-plywood and preplanked (3 x 1mm stripes) before mounting (structure done by charcoaling plank edges with a masons pencil, before gluing to the deckplates
 

stern fill blocks in multilayer ply, the deck Panels are checked for size with a Little surplus all around
 
 

deck curvatures clearly to be seen here
 

decks brought into shape with rough outer trimm
 

poop bulkhead and deckhousings started
 
 
 
 
Build log part 2 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Eh up buddy (thought I would get some yorkshire in ) a riffler file is just like a needle file,but the end is bent so you can get into places other files won't reach (sounds like a tv advert).They come in all different cross sections like normal needle files,generally you get a pack of assorted shapes and they are very,very cheap.I think CMB stocks them.Good luck with the 'deadly' walnut quite literal in my case as I have an allergy to the stuff .
Aww 'name the ship',haven't got much in the way of a spare minute at the moment unfortunately,shame really as it is good fun
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey There Guys,  I was deffo getting the 50p effect Nigel but I addressed it with a Scraper Thingy (A Stanley Blade held at the top in a special gripper type of affair) which I pushed straight down onto the offending 50p edge and cut it off   (erm Nigel Mate.. wots a Riffler File ? though I did run a needle file along it a few times to even things out a bit, still a complete pain in the 'stern')
 
Jason.. Looking forward to planking !!! you sadist  (admittedly planking is probably a Summer Holiday compared to rigging!!)
Rubber Bands.. Careful Now !
 
I'll be going over to the Walnut Kit supplied planks shortly, though I hear that they are Brutal (Irishism for not very good at all..  )
 
Thanks for checking in and for all the Likes folks
 
Eamonn
 
BTW Nigel & Jason I was over on 'Name the Ship' for a few goes, missed ye guys over there..  There wasn't an Arklow Rowboat to be seen!

Looking great Eamon, I think the plank tapering Nigel suggests is well worth it, you've done such a grand job already on the top planks.  Try to enjoy it, bizarrely I'm looking forward to my next planking challenge, whatever that proves to be 
 
As for the rubber bands, down with this sort of thing!

Hi mate,if you find laying individual lengths is starting to make the plank run look like a 50p piece(sorry non UK readers,a fifty p piece is a 7 sided coin),I find that checking with a full length and a light touch of a riffler file trues the edge up on the planks that have been fitted
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey There Nigel,  thanks for dropping by with some welcome advice mate, always appreciated.. yea, that last laid 'wide' plank will allow me to complete the transitions more easily, laying it in the 'Full' has smoothened out the run too (at least I hope) and as a result things should pick up now speed wise. 
Tapering began at the bow a few plank ago, weirdly I didn't need much if any tapering at the stern in the 1st layer!, will have to keep an eye on it with this layer though.
 
Were you watching the Rugby at the weekend? looks like England or Ireland for the 6 Nations, with England having the potentially much easier last game! Typical !!
 
Eamonn

Thank you very much nmbrook. I used informations from book James Lees - The masting and rigging of English ships of war. In download section you can find the table which is very helpful.
 
Back to my model. I finally finished lower parts of masts.

Hi Eamonn,she is coming on well mate It is a little hard to tell with all the pegs and clamps but my advice is to bear in mind the last plank fitted and the the next one after,really need a lot of tapering at the stern end where there is a transition in hull form at the stern counter.If you don't taper these two planks,the planking run moving down will become crowded.Hard to explain on the keyboard,but not only will this help the planking moving down,but also follow the curve better.This tapers aren't long ones,just maybe 40mm long,If you lay a plank against the last one with an even gap of 5mm all along,this should highlight what I mean buddy.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok Folks.. Small Photo Update (just to show that I haven't forgotten you)
 
Transom Planked, Lower Transom Planked and a full Strake of planking done each side !
 
I wanted to get the lower Transom planked before continuing with the Strakes, as I wanted the strakes to overlap the Transom planks.. if you follow!
The newest strake on both sides is a wider plank as there was a bit of shaping to be done on it towards the bow and at the meeting of the transom.. it is also a Full Plank.. ie not  my scale plank lengths (all this area will be painted anyhoo) But in keeping with the suggestion of Kester (to continue with the Scale Planks all the way to the keel) I shall put a subtle 'notch' in the appropriate place to simulate Butt's.  Don't know about ye Guys 'n Gals but I found that the individual Scale Planking (8.5 cm lengths at this scale) was taking an absolute age!! I was spending as much time laying a single length as I was laying a Full length.. That Might Just Be Me Though  
 
By The Way, there is enough Pegs, Pins & Clamps in these shots to keep everyone's attention, with the addition of some discrete Rubber Band action too for the real aficionado's (You Know Who Ye All Are.. For Shame)
 
All The Best Folks
 
Eamonn
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the "likes"...
 
Sam,
I'm happy with the way this is going.  Really happy. 
 
Mobbsie,
I was hoping for some wise words... but I'm glad you like what you see. 
 
 
Update time,  yippee!!!
 
The backbone is complete.  (Almost.. forgot to finish trim the keel at the stern according to the picture).  The stem has been appropriately (I think) tapered and now attached to the keel.   The deadwood was made from the cherry since I didn't have any boxwood thin enough and attached along with the sternpost.   And, an rudder blank has been made. 
 
I discovered that misinterpreted the plans on V 1.0 for the stern deadwood and the sternpost.  The deadwood on V 2.0 isn't tapered but the sternpost and keel need to be.  It appears that the best way will be after planking when the planks, keel and sternpost can all be done at once.  Or least that's the way it appears in the Hahn photos.... 
 
I can now go wander off and fiddle with cleaning up the salvage parts, maybe make some bits and pieces, etc. while waiting for my framing wood to show up. 
 

Wild cats and all... Willy in the background playing "On the Road Again".   Anyway, here's an update.
 
Keel is ready....  keelson is being re-used.  It's cherry and will be hidden so why re-invent the wheel.
 

 
The stem is just about there.  I'm sorting out a way to make the caulking/felt lines better.  There seems to be something (not sure how it happens) that when there's a very tight fit, the glue line disappears.  A good thing?  Or an aggrevation?  The stem still needs some mill work for the gammoning holes and two (I think) through holes for the bobstays.  The plans aren't clear on this and pictures from the article and the CD aren't clear in this area.  Also trying to sort out the taper on this, if any.
 

 
I'm currently redoing the sternpost in boxwood.  The picture shows the Version 1.0 sternpost and rudder that were never put on the old ship.  I'm thinking about the rudder given the wood contrasts based on the test, I'm trying visualize if I should re-do it boxwood or not.
 

This ship's boat business is giving me serious pause for reflection.  I at first thought: "Well, I've got a couple of the ME low-budget ship's boat kits...."   But they are too generic and not right.  If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it right.
 
This first pic shows the kit boat with a new keel I thought I'd use...
 

 
So it's in the scrap box...
 
I dug through Frolich's book, re-examined the plans, and also looked at the Bonhomme Richard plans.  Seems the French pretty much standardized what boats and sized them accordingly.  I dug some more on the best way to do this... Frolich, Bello, various builds here on MSW, etc.  Ah-ha!!! Lifts!
 
After scaling the plans appropriately for all three boats, I generated a set of lifts for the longboat.  The barge and cutter will follow if this works.     The other alternative is to generate a series of bulkheads/frames like Chuck designed for his boats but I'm trying the lifts first.  The one thing that I'll change between the plans and the build is the framing wood dimension.  The plans show the frames to be 1/32" X 1/32" (~0.5 mm).. I've tried but I can't cut wood that small, so I'll be using 1/16" X 1/16"(~1 mm) for the frames.  Here's where I am now... cutting out the lifts on wood of the appropriate thickness.  There's also a small pile of cherry cut to the frame size and a wide strip for the keel, etc.
 

 
Now to go see where this path leads.... 

Dear friends,
I warmly thank you for your praise and all comments, I am honoured a lot and appreciate your kind words.
 
 Well, these cleats are my newest and I spent plenty of time searching suitable way, how to make them. I have to admit that my first cleats were not very good.
 
 
 
That's a walnut-tree wood. I like this kind of wood, it has a nice colour and it is quite easy to machined it.
 
 
And now what's new on Royal Caroline...
There are finished all cleats and now I am working on channels and deadeyes - they are made on CNC lathe (not my own - I purchased them here:
http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---blocks ), but it is necessary to improve the deadeyes for more realistic appearance and better looking surface.
 
 
Here are some pics, please enjoy them:
 


 

 
All channels were glued onto wooden beams - one of them is highlighted with red spots on first picture below. These beams were embed into the hull and secured with glue. I tested the durability and bond strength and it proved to be a very good solution at card models.

 






 

These days I am working on wooden cleats - all is handmade and i use only basic tools. There are also finished other railings.
Here are some pics:


 



 
 







 

Hi Mate
 
At this scale boxwood would be the ideal followed by Pear.The grain of these is very,very much smaller making it easier to produce small details.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel