ca.shipwright

Pat,
That is the conundrum. The model is no longer historically correct. I bounced back and forth between the Corel plans and the AOS. This was a huge mistake and not feasible to correct. So, now I have a ship model "representative" of the Cook voyage era. Needless to say, it has irritated me to no end. Now  I pick and choose which details I will incorporate on this build. She still looks nice and since I am a long way from Down Under, I am going to but the Endeavour name on her. I don't think anyone in my area will know the difference and I know you all will forgive my impertenence..
 
Spent today, the whole day, rigging the steering gear. Had it all in hand and then two blocks failed on the tiller with the last tightening. As Scarlett O'Hara said  'Tomorrow is another day."
 
Regards and thank for all your kind words and advice.
 
 

Just tried the link in the post- came up instantly.

It's an old Delta that I bought about 15 years ago.

Greetings,
 
Finally something to write about. Completed all the mast components, installed the deadeyes on the tops and rigged the blocks on the top bottoms.
 
I made the deadeyes using Dave Rowe's method. It never ceases to amaze me how the first one of anything always takes forever and last one takes no time at all. It shows what repetition can do.  Now for some final clean up, finish painting the black on the masts and start the rope work.
 
I will install all rigging I can on each component before assembling the masts and yards.
 
I made the rigging stations that someone was kind enough to post. Works very well. I never realized how much better the helping hand work when they are screwed down. Also, covering the alligator clip ends with some tacky tubing really helps. The blocks no longer jump out of the clips nor does any work piece get marred.
 
I have a big decision to make- to serve or not to serve that is the question. Since this is not going to be a historically correct model as I have made to many mistakes/changes running back and forth between the Corel plans and the AOS and back again this is a huge lesson learned. I wonder if the effort will be worth it.
 
If I do decide to serve, I will try to make an add-on to the rigging station. This should not require too much engineering. And I am a jig lover.
 
Any way, here are some photos.
 
To those in the US, Happy Thanksgiving. To those Down Under and the Kiwis, hoist a pint and celebrate something.
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

E J
I don't know if you have seen this but check it out:
 
http://www.themodelshipwright.com/high-resolution-ship-plans/sailing-vessels/french-17th-century-warship-la-couronne/
 
Regards

Greetings,
 
Finally something to write about. Completed all the mast components, installed the deadeyes on the tops and rigged the blocks on the top bottoms.
 
I made the deadeyes using Dave Rowe's method. It never ceases to amaze me how the first one of anything always takes forever and last one takes no time at all. It shows what repetition can do.  Now for some final clean up, finish painting the black on the masts and start the rope work.
 
I will install all rigging I can on each component before assembling the masts and yards.
 
I made the rigging stations that someone was kind enough to post. Works very well. I never realized how much better the helping hand work when they are screwed down. Also, covering the alligator clip ends with some tacky tubing really helps. The blocks no longer jump out of the clips nor does any work piece get marred.
 
I have a big decision to make- to serve or not to serve that is the question. Since this is not going to be a historically correct model as I have made to many mistakes/changes running back and forth between the Corel plans and the AOS and back again this is a huge lesson learned. I wonder if the effort will be worth it.
 
If I do decide to serve, I will try to make an add-on to the rigging station. This should not require too much engineering. And I am a jig lover.
 
Any way, here are some photos.
 
To those in the US, Happy Thanksgiving. To those Down Under and the Kiwis, hoist a pint and celebrate something.
 
Regards

Greetings Again.
 
I can't believe that it's been 54 weeks since I started Endeavour and first posted in this log. Time really flies when you are having fun.
 
I reached what I consider to be a milestone on the build. All of the masts, spars and tops, mast caps and bow spirt have been fabricated.
I dry fitted all of the components and they seem to fit fairly well. Some, well maybe more than some, touch up will be required. Then its on to mounting the eye bolts and all the rest of the goodies that should be done before stepping the masts. Finally the painting will be completed. I won't admit to how many dowels it took to get this far.
 
I tried to do the hexagonal center for the main yards on a piece of scrap. This did not go well and I have decided to omit this. I can see where starting with square stock for the spars is definately the way to go. Next time.
 
We'll take a break. Clean up the shop. And, maybe work on my solid hull Sultana for a bit.
 
Regards
 
 
Photos to follow

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Greetings,
 
I have started the rigging and it has taken the fingers a while to remember how to handle the threads. Strangely enough I remembered how to seize a block to a line and  a block to something else like a yard or mast or eyebolt.
 
This is really going to take a long time; maybe "Two years before the mast."
 
I'll post some pictures after I have completed some more work.
 
Regards

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Fantastic clove hitches on the rat lines. I have never seen them so neatly and evenly done.

Fantastic clove hitches on the rat lines. I have never seen them so neatly and evenly done.

LOWER SHROUD SHEAR POLES, FAIRLEADS, AND RATLINES
 
I had previously lashed the deadeyes on my lower shrouds and threaded the lanyards.  It was time to tie of the lanyards, attach the lower and upper shear poles and fairleads and tie the dreaded ratlines.
 
I milled my shear poles and fairleads out of some cherry stripwood and finished them off with my tung oil. I initially secure them to the lines with a drop of CA.
 
On the lower shear pole, I used it to line up the deadeye and shroud lines to face forward since they tend to twist out of alignment without it.  I lashed it with .008 black rope. You can get away with a half hitch knot since it disappears in this small size. I tie the knot in the back and add a small drop of CA with the tip of a pin to finish it off.
 
The fairlead is a bit trickier. It is installed on the inside of the shrouds, and has 8 small holes to accept running lines that pass through on their way to the pin rail below. I measured out the holes, and drilled them with my pin vice. I lashed them with the .008 rope.
 
The upper shear pole is small and tucked close in under the top. I tied it off like the lower.
 
For the ratlines, I used my .008 tan rope.  I tie a half hitch knot on the ends and use a classic clove hitch on the middle lines. For the half hitch, I learned through experience to tie it such that the end leading to the shroud lines comes under the knot so that it creates a natural crescent shape. I do the same with the end knot.

Absolutely beautiful!

Absolutely beautiful!

Absolutely beautiful!

Good for you EJ. Always good to have projects at different stages to keep the skills fresh.

It has been said that "a clean desk is a sign of a sick mind."

I think that is common to all fully rigged ship kits. The only thing I ever saw that maybe made this a little easier is to yellow highlight each line on the plan when you work on it. You can also highlight in another color all those lines you are not going to rig. Another way to simplify the plans is to use whiteout tape to cover all lines, blocks, etc you are not going to rig. What's left should be fairly easy to interpret.
 
Regards

Good for you EJ. Always good to have projects at different stages to keep the skills fresh.