lagrayjr

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

the top riders 
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you all for your comments, as you well know, this is very encouraging in the ups and downs of such a long lasting build.

Typical for a scratch build is the absence of a masterplan, at least concerning the little decisions you make, which may result in many weeks of additional work.
One of this crazy ideas were the workable gun lids.
Most "HMS Surprises" show the traditional one piece gun doors, simple and reliable. My (about) 1810 Surprise had to feature the two-parted version the trio Lavery, Hunt and Marquardt demand. Believe me, I didn`t know what was coming about.
A horror trip:
 
but she has a "look"...
 

 
Finally, one clear cold morning the hull was completed.   ... and another decision had to be made: Rigging? Sails?
 

 
Well my wife decided imperiously: "Rigg and sails!" ...and here we are, serving countless ropes...
 
 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

The breech rope was made using a technique I saw on an actual contemporary model.  The splice for the button of the Carronade was simulated.
 
As mentioned I am using Syren .035 light brown rope.  All of my .035 size rope is four strands.   I dont think it would look as nice otherwise.  Four stranded rope just make it work nicely.   But essentially,  the entire breech rope is made to length....3" long.   (addendum) After consideration I think the breech line should be no longer than 3".  It looks a bit long in the photo. The eyebolts and rings were slipped on before the end was finished off.  You can see that in the photos.   The eyebolts were 28 gauge wire while the split rings were 24 gauge.
 

 
Then I used a sharp but wide awl to simulate the splice. It has to be large enough that the splice will fit over the button of the carronade or cannon.  In the center of the breech rope I pushed the awl through so there were two strands on top and bottom.  Hence the need for four stranded rope. Then I applied some watered down white glue and let it dry.  Once dry the simulated splice stayed to shape.
 
I have seen many real splices attempted and they just look to big and out of scale.  I couldnt pull that off convincingly. Even though this is a cheat, I think it looks better because it stays smaller.
 

 
 
I could have just gone with the usual wrapping once around the button of the carronade...but that is tough to do in my opinion.  It wont stay in place and you must use glue so it wont come undone.  This ends up pulling the finish off the barrel etc.  In the end it just looks too sloppy for me.  So I gave this a try.  No glue is needed at all.  It slips right on the button and wont come off.  This allows you more control to set the other eyes into the brackets of the carriage and then place the whole thing on deck.
 

 
Hope that makes sense.   I also stiffened the line with the watered down white glue before starting.  Let it dry.  I just find it easier to work with when its a bit stiffer.  At least with the breech rope anyway.  I started with about a 5" long piece of rope.
 
Chuck

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 152 – Ship’s Boats 8
 
I am almost there with the boats and looking forward to getting on with something different.  In the last part the frames and keel assembly for the 22’ cutter were fitted to the plug.  This boat will hang from quarter davits on the finished model.  In the first picture the rabbet if the stem is being roughed out with a V-gouge.
 

 
In the next picture the rabbet is being pared out at the stern. 
 

 
This was followed by some filing and cutting of the rabbet along the keel.  The starboard garboard strake is being installed in the next picture.
 

 
Additional planking has been installed in the next picture and the last installed strake is being beveled at the stern.
 

 
The angle of the bevel becomes more perpendicular to the side at the ends of the boat to allow the lapstraked planking to blend flush at both ends.  The planks also need to be tapered to fit fairly and come out right at the top.  In the next picture the planking is complete except the the wale strake that will be fitted after painting.
 

 
After some cleanup and dressing the planking lines, the boat will be removed from the plug for internal work and finishing.  In the meantime the other boats have been completed and one of the longboats is shown chained down to the skid beams in the next picture.
 

 
The chains have been fitted with covering to protect the boats.  One end of the chain is hooked to an eyebolt and the other is lashed to another eyebolt on the other side.  In the next picture the boat on the port side has been secured and wood chocks have been installed on the beams to restrain movement of the boats.
 

 
The last picture shows the 25’ cutter temporarily in place and complete except for the rudder hinges.
 

 
This boat will be held in storage and secured later after rigging is belayed between it and the rail.
 
 
Ed

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Paulsutcliffe,
Mortars did the same .I showed it to the 1 and 2 side of the relationship 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul
 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

The inner bulwark sheathing proved interesting. It took several pattern pieces to figure out the developed shapes of the planks. The first photo shows one plank being wet-bent into position. The card pattern for this is in the foreground, as well as patterns for the steersman's bench.
 
The second photo shows both inner sides complete and the vertical portion of the steersman's bench in position. The top of this has been made and painted. The same strategy as for the other horizontal surfaces was used to build it. The paint is in the process of drying and I'll install the top tomorrow.
 
There are several possible items I could now tackle, but I think that the risers (horizontal planks that support the ends of the thwarts) should be next.

Hello,
I am always happy to have you here.Thanks for the nice comments.
Likewise, of course, I am delighted with the many LIKES.

The two cutter have received all thwarts.
For this purpose, additional images:
 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 151 – Ship’s Boats 7
 
Thank you for the comments and likes since the last post.  I am looking forward to completing the work on these small (3 to 4”) long boats!
 
After the last post I made some modifications to the 25’ clinker built cutter.  I took some advice from my good friend Druxey that the lapstrake planking needed to converge to a carvel form as it approached the stem and stern rabbets.  This is well illustrated in his posting on the Greenwich barge.  I applied a cosmetic fix to the installed planking as shown in the first picture to remove the overlapping at the ends.
 

 
The clinker style overlap at the rabbets would cause a complication in sealing and that is probably the reason for bringing the planks flush at those points.  Anyway, because of this, I decided to lapstrake the 4th boat using the correct process.  I had intended to make this carvel planked, but decided I needed to do one more clinker to fully understand the correct planking process.  The next picture shows another view of the current state of the first three boats.
 

 
You will notice that eyebolts have been installed in the skid beams and the boat sterns have been lettered.  The next picture shows the plug for the 4th boat, a 22’ cutter that will be suspended from the starboard quarter davits.
 

 
I reused the 25’ cutter plug as a starting point for this, hence the pinholes.  The plug has been primed in the picture – not very photogenic I’m afraid.  In the next picture the frames have been bent over the plug.
 

 
They of course need to be aligned.  The first step in securing them is shown in the next picture. 
 

 
A temporary guide and holding strip has been nailed to the plug over the frames at the boats topside height.  A hole for an additional nail is being drilled in the picture.  With the frames secured topside the stem piece is being fitted in the next picture.
 

 
This piece was then pinned to the plug and glued to the first few frames.  The keel was then fitted and glued to the frame floors as shown below.
 

 
The last step before planking was to add the stern deadwood as shown below.
 

 
This is glued to the keel.  The connections are all pretty fragile at this point, but the addition of the garboard strakes will strengthen it significantly. 
 
Ed

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
thanks for the encouragement, one and all!
Here is the continuation:
 
The first image shows all installation parts of the cutters.

 
On the next two images all built boats can be seen that I have built for the French corvette.
Only thing missing is the gig.

 

This will be the last update for a few days: the frames have now all been bent in. I'll be back in a week or so. Thank you all for following and liking this log.

Well, there's been a little progress made between other projects. I decided to revise the scheme of planking butts and I'm happier with the new layout. The plug has been cut back along the central spine (arrowed) to ensure that it will not become accidentally glued to the plug while planking. The tiny transom has also been added and bevelled to conform to the plug's contours. The overall photo shows six small brass pins in place to secure the keel while installing the garboard strakes.
 
Next up will be to wax the plug, then cut some very thin planking stock to ¾" thickness.

This is where I wish I were building at a larger scale!
 
First the central spine elements were cut from 3" thick stock, with the exception of the stern post. This was cut from 4½" wood. The keel is very light at only 3" square and has a 1" rabbet cut into it. To prevent total insanity, I cut a scratch moulding contour into a piece of hacksaw blade. By rubber cementing the blank to some scrap board, this held it firmly. I cut the rabbet in for most of its length. To prevent an uneven rabbet, I cut the steel profile so that it bottomed out on the board at the correct depth.
 
The stern post was tapered from its full thickness at the top to 3" at the foot. All the various scarph joints were then fitted using - believe it or not - a ½" chisel. When I was satisfied with them, I glued up stem, keel, stern post and stern standard or deadwood. The rest of the rabbet was carefully cut using a scalpel blade and very well-honed chisels. The bow was especially challenging at this scale, as the planks come in almost parallel to the stem.
 
There may be a hiatus before the next instalment as I now have restoration work in the studio, and that has to take precedence.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 148 – Ship’s Boats 4
 
The last picture in Part 147 showed the top plank being glued on to longboat 1 with the channel wale inserted to provide a space for its later installation.  In the first picture the wale has been removed.
 

 
The frames may now be cut down to the top of the side and the boat removed from the plug.  The next picture shows the keelson being glued to the tops of the frame floors.
 

 
The longboats were pretty heavily constructed.  They were working boats that carried supplies or cargo and sometimes even an anchor. Ceiling stringers at the turn of the bilge can be seen in this picture as well as clamps to support the seats.  In the next picture a clamp at the wale height is being glued in after installation of the seats. 
 

 
I tried not to fuss too much with this interior work because the boats will be fixed to the skid beams inverted roughly in the position shown in the next picture.
 

 
The 25’ cutters were secured just outside of the longboats. I expect to tie down spare spars and lower studding sail booms between the longboats.  In this picture the outer planking of longboat 1 has been given a coat of white shellac as a sealer and that has been sanded smooth.  There will be a second shellac seal coat and sanding before the final white gloss acrylic finish.  The channel wales will be the same blue as the cabin roof.
 
All the pin rails visible in this picture have been fitted with their pins.  The blue masking tape was applied to stop the dropping of belaying pins into the hold.  In the next picture both the boat and the two wales have been painted and are ready for final assembly.
 

 
The last picture shows the boat placed on the skid beams.
 

 
Rudder hinges are still required.  Boats were also required to have the ship’s name lettered on the transom and bow.  This may be more than I can manage, but we’ll see.
 
Before mounting the boats I need to check for rigging clearance between the outer boats and the pin rail.  I believe all the lines that belay in the way of the boats go through shroud fairleads so there should be no problem, but it is worth a check.  It may be best to avoid securing these boats until rigging has been belayed below the boats.
 
Ed

I set the beams of the formwork

 

 

 

 

 

painting of the bridge

 

 

thank you, friends!
 
 
warehouse shelves

 

 
final fixing

 

 

 
 
in the meantime I prepared the table of the Council Hall

 

 

 

 

more...

 

 

I just learned the 400 pages of the booklet to drive the drone as on the first picture.
The other pictures are the result of the camera on board.

Planking floor and walls
I wanted to show what I use  when I want  a white background  for a medium object.
The idea is not to have a demarcation between the wall and the floor.
A sheet  of coroplast  4 by  8 feet is used.

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul