lagrayjr

This morning I managed to finish the deck gun before Gwen and I went to my birthday party thrown by our financial advisory company.   
 
I made the simulated elevation adjusting rack and cement that in place.  I'm happy with the way de gun came out and it looks quite menacing when viewed head on.
 
Below are the pics.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Hello, thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Karl
 
 
Upper-Deck
prepared for the installation of the cannons.
 
 
 
 
T e i l  45

Thanks for the kind words.
 
Maury, I had to make the door a bit longer, but now you're mentioning it, I probably better put the extension above the door. It does look a bit strange now. I fear taking the door out will damage the pantry, let me think about that.
 
Fleas Druxey? I thought I was a step ahead of you by adding the palliasses and now your starting about fleas. Boy where does this end.....
 
Work moved to the outside of the hull. The knee of the head (made 1,5 years back) is now permanently fitted as I had to add the iron plates to the bottom of the hull.
 

 
I glued them temporarily in place to draw the outlines and then used a chisel to remove the wood so it fits flush to the hull. I'll remove them to prevent any damage to the plates.
 

 

 

 
This concludes TFFM Vol 1, a bit of a milestone, this took me 4,5 years to complete and still two volumes to go......... I hope everybody is patient enough to bear with me till the end (and throwing challenges at me will make the journey longer..)
 
Remco
 
 
 
 

Hello Grant,
 
thank you for your nice comment.
 
The gun port lids from the starboard side are now completed.
Here are two pictures that show how they look on the model.

 

 
To be continued ...

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 38 – Stern Timbering 2
 
After setting the eight stern timbers, chocks were installed between them in scores at the “knuckle” where the timbers change direction upwards.
 

 
This knuckle gradually smoothes out into a curve in the cant frames section.  The assembly has not been sanded at this stage.  Some sanding has been done in the next picture, which shows all of chocks installed.
 

 
With this work complete, the cant framing was continued forward.  The next picture shows the method used for final beveling the frames before setting.
 

 
The first step in this process was to rough shape the frames on the disk and spindle sander.  Fine cut rasps and a #0 cut half round file were used to trim the frames right back to the lines on each face of the patterns on each side.  All this work could be done by hand, but the power tools save time.
 
In the next picture frame 47 has been installed on the starboard side and its port counterpart is being fitted on the port side using a template.
 

 
These templates were very easy to make by creating a view of the three profiles on the CAD worksheet for the cant frame.  They were then printed on heavy presentation paper and cut out with a knife.  This eliminated pasting to heavier stock and cutting on the scroll saw.  That was the method I had used previously.
 
The next picture shows the gluing up of the above frame.
 

 
The stern template and two clamps hold the frame in position.  In the next picture the next frame, #46 is clamped and glued on the starboard side. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closeup of the foot of the frame and the clamping.
 

 
The wet areas on the wood are from washing off the excess glue. 
 
In the next picture a knuckle chock has been installed between frames 48 and 47 on the starboard side and its counterpart is being glued in on the port side.
 

 
And so it goes.
 
 Ed

Christian, based on what I know probably a brick hearth or a Brody style stove, but not a real Brody stove.
Sure Gary, I'll start taking orders
 
The pots are tubes turned on the lathe to give it a small rim, bottom and handles silver soldered. I made a smaller fish pot for the stove. Work began on the doors fitted to the sides of the stove, hinges and locking mechanism works, I think they look a bit heavy for a simple door, looks more like a safe door. Have to think about this .....
 

 
 
 

 
Grant, remember the wicker basket...
 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 34 – Stern Deadwood continued
 
In the first picture the stern deadwood has been constructed.  A template has been made and is being used to mark out the bearding line on the model.
 

 
As mentioned before, the bearding line describes the position along the hull where the hull profiles intersect with the width of the deadwood.  Below this line the deadwood narrows down to the rabbet of the keel.  The cant frames rest on this line and provide for the increased breadth of the hull above it.  The other side was marked with the same template.
 
In the next picture another template is being used to mark the cutting down line on the port side.
 

 
The cutting down line marks the intersections of the inboard faces of the frames with the deadwood.  It is just slightly below the top of the deadwood.
 
In the next picture the fore and aft lines of each cant frame are being marked on the deadwood.
 

 
These lines are squared up from the base drawing using the small square and the special Plexiglas square that was made to clear the keel side support strips on the shipway.
 
The next picture shows the cant frame lines drawn in.  As with the bow, these lines define the shallow mortises that will seat each cant frame.
 

 
The dashed lines forward of the cant frames mark the location of the half frames back to the last full square frame.  The next picture shows the remaining area to be framed.
 

 
In the next picture the two central stern timbers have been cut out and are held up in place on the sternpost.  Stern framing evolved during the clipper period.  Early clippers continued to feature the square counter stern and transoms of earlier times.  As the elliptical and circular sterns evolved, new methods were used in their construction.  Young America’s actual construction was not recorded.  I have elected to go with the transomless framing that was widely used at the time on circular/elliptical sterns.
 

 
In the next picture the lines of the cant frame mortises are being scribed with a knife before paring them out.
 

 
The last picture shows the in situ paring of the mortises on the starboard side
in progress.
 

 
The extent of each mortise is defined by the two cant frame face lines, the cutting down line at the top and the bearding line at the bottom.
 
Ed

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Well guys, I got to finally do some cooking and if any one has a pig, bring it on over and we can have a roast. Only kidding but finally have Alfred stove just about finished. Been working on it for a couple of days and has been a lot of fun. Its built of copper and brass, and a few pieces of plastic and wood thrown in to the mix. Still have to put the  bar around it and finish the stack. A couple of the items, probably will get replace, such as the pot holder's and in the mean time will have to make some pot's and pans. Don't be to hard guys and still need a lot of work on it.   Also have to figure out how am going to get that cast iron look so if any of you have any ideal's on how to do this, let me know, would you please. Just to let you know there was a few items that came from Chuck's photo etch set which came in real handy, so thank you Chuck. Enjoy the photo's guy's.
 
Gary 

Hello Gary,
I am very impressed reading your post.
Thank you a lot for your attention to my model and kind words.
 
In the meantime I have continued to work on the hinges.
Here are a few pictures.
 

 

 

In the last photograph every 48 hinges are now visible for the gunports lids.

We all hope that you will do another book and set of plans. I've just received volume 2 of the Naiad here and it is outstanding. Laman

Hello friends,
thank you for the kind comments.
Nine out of twenty carronades I have now assembled.
Here are some impressions:

 

 

Attack can be used to dissolve cured epoxy .http://www.ottofrei.com/Attack-Glue-Dissolving-Compound-.html and does not discolor wood. Laman

Welcome back. We have a lot of work to do. Fortunately I have all the Naiad posts saved as Word files and all the associated images, so I will be putting up the entire 176 parts as soon as I can. The model is approaching completion, so I do not expect more perhaps 10-12 new posts, but there has been enough interest in the old posts to make the effort worthwhile. We will all need to be showing a lot of patience for awhile.
 
I will also opening a topic in the book section for "The Naiad Frigate - Volume I. There are some content updates I want to share there.
 
I will also be reposting the 1:96 Victory Build log, but that will be taking a back seat to Naiad for awahile.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed