mattsayers148

Thanks heaps to everyone (especially Crackers, CapnHarv, Matt) for all the advice regarding my rigging.
 
Essentially, general opinion seems to be to rig the sails to one side so they don't cause head-aches (literally) for the crew. As such, I'll be untying a few lines this evening and seeing if I can come up with a better arrangement, however, this will greatly depend upon the belaying-pin set-up.
 
Stay-tuned !!
 
PS: Crackers. Originally, I was all in favour of modelling a Capt Bligh from SuperSculpey (have you seen Keith W's mini-tutorial here ??). Latest reports are, however, that the friend to whom this build be a-going will make a Bligh himself. 

Hi Phil. Great idea - citric acid!! Lemons contain citric acid. Have you tried blackening the ball bearings with this or is the concentration not enough for the job?

Ball bearings for cannon balls
 
I know this isn't a new idea so forgive me if you've seen it before. Steel (important!) ball bearings react with citric acid to produce a beautiful black matt finish. The beauty of this is that ball bearings are available in every size imaginable so scale wise there are no issues. 24 hour immersion in a concentrated solution of citric acid (available in powder form online for around £5 per kilo) produces the desired effect. So, for a tenner I got a thousand 1.5 mm cannon balls with enough citric acid left over to make lemonade until doomsday ...
 
(Untreated ball bearings on the left of the pic - sorry about the focus)
 

 
 

Nice work CaptainSteve! On a previous set o sails, I slowly inserted a very small gauge of wire through the bottom cloth fold over, it can then be moved to desired shape. As for the lines I looked at a lot of photos and found that the tack and clew lines are belayed on the same side. I would imagine for safety's sake, a full sail could cause a bit of damage to the occupants, not so if the filled sails are off to the side. Don't know if that helps or not.

Nice work CaptainSteve! On a previous set o sails, I slowly inserted a very small gauge of wire through the bottom cloth fold over, it can then be moved to desired shape. As for the lines I looked at a lot of photos and found that the tack and clew lines are belayed on the same side. I would imagine for safety's sake, a full sail could cause a bit of damage to the occupants, not so if the filled sails are off to the side. Don't know if that helps or not.

Arr ... Verily, I have read that same number o' builds, my ownself !!
 
The secret with using chemical-blackening agents seems to be in the preparation of the surface before blackening.
Essentially, all oils, dirt, dust, grease and grime needs to be removed a-forehand. Also, it can help to scratch-up highly polished surfaces e'er so slightly. 

CaptainSteve,
 
Thanks for your vote of confidence, and the suggestion.
 
I definitely plan to try my hand at using chemicals to blacken the door knobs and several other parts (cannons, among others).
 
I must have read a 100 build threads by now and I can't even put to words how valuable that exercise was (I considered it a home work assignment) to prepare myself for my first build.
 
As such, I came across a really nice thread called "THE BLAKEN-IT TRIALS" here is the link that I'm sure you've already seen:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6977-the-blacken-it-trials/#entry205420
 
And yes sir, a bottle of Casey's is in the shipyard   
 
Boyd

Hi Mike,
 
Thanks for the kind words and coming aboard to check out my build log.
 
And yes, you're correct as the starboard side of the AL Bounty is open for display purposes and adds a level of complexity to the build.  There are a couple of other build logs on this ship, as well as some fine pictures of this model in the gallery. 
 
Boyd

You seem to be doing a fine job so far, Boyd.
 
As to blackening metals, I do prefer the look of chemically-coloured over painted. There are a number of products available ... as well as a number of threads on the topic here on MSW.
 
So far, my favourite is Casey's Brass Black.  

Very nice start to your model. I will follow with great interest. I haven't viewed this kit before. I am guessing that it is made with exposed planking?
It looks very good.
Mike

Nice work CaptainSteve! On a previous set o sails, I slowly inserted a very small gauge of wire through the bottom cloth fold over, it can then be moved to desired shape. As for the lines I looked at a lot of photos and found that the tack and clew lines are belayed on the same side. I would imagine for safety's sake, a full sail could cause a bit of damage to the occupants, not so if the filled sails are off to the side. Don't know if that helps or not.

John and Captain Steve,
 
Thanks much for your input...I'm definitely leaning toward the blackened approach and I'll spend some time improving the process I use (the pic was a quick and dirty use of a marker pen just for comparison).
 
I'm following both of your current builds and would humbly appreciate any help and advise   
 
Boyd   

Although I went all-brass on previous builds, I admit I'm now a convert to the blackened brass look ... so, the one on the right for me.

One other item I've been playing around with are the door knobs (if that's what you call them).
 
I don't much like anything brass on the ship, and the AL kit comes with two brass pieces that make up the suggested door knobs.
 
Take a look at the picture below and let me know what you think (note; in both pics the end ring has been slightly reduced in diameter to try and make it closer to scale).
 
The door on the left is the stock brass color that most people used on their AL Bounty model.
 
The door on the right has the same brass pieces that I blackened.
 
I'm not sure about what kind of hardware was used on the Bounty (or any 18th century ship) and what color it was.
 
Any opinions on the two I show in the picture would be appreciated (which color do you think looks best)?
 
 
Thanks
 
Boyd
 
 
 

Install the middle deck cross beam supports.
 
Normally I wouldn’t have spent much time discussing this step because it’s quite straight forward (cut the beam to length and glue it into the frame).
 
However, as I cut and glued in the cross beam supports it really brought my attention to how flexible (probably flimsy is a better word) the frames are on this model.
 
When you think about it; most of the model ships use a POB design which is quite strong in comparison to this POF model (which is due to the open hull design).  The AL Bounty only has 15 frames and three decks (2 of which are partial decks that don’t meet all the frame sides).  As a comparison, the real Bounty had close to 90 frames according to The Anatomy diagrams.
 
Now I realize this model will never see the ocean and heavy seas, but none the less I think a little extra effort can help shore things up a bit.
 
As such, I’m going to add pins to the joints by drilling pilot holes at a slight angle from the top of the beam into each frame and insert wood dowels coated with glue for good measures.
 
This should tighten things up a bit and help keep everything in tact during the fairing/planking/sanding process. It shouldn't take more than a couple hours to complete this step.   
 
I’ll install the dowels just before I lay the middle decks as I need to work without several of the cross beams in place while I install my lower deck modifications (i.e. 6 cabin additions in the lower Bow and Stern decks – I’ll describe this activity in a future post).
 
And the last item was to install the remaining stern supports.
 
 

Bow cross beam supports glued in
 
 

Also note the four clamps on the bow (gluing in the under deck cross beam) 
 
 

Finished cross beams on the stern
 
 

Stern supports glued in
 
 
And in case you're wondering; I didn't realize I'd need to remove some of the cross beams to complete the cabin additions until I started fitting the templates and cabin facades onto the lower decks (the reason why I had to hold off on installing the pins in the beam/frame joints). 
 
 
 
Stay tuned for the “hold well” installation…..

Great idea, Mark.
 
But would starch hold long-term ??
 
What about a diluted PVA mix ?? What ratio do you suggest ??

Hmm.. if doesn't have an outboard motor, I'm no help on these rascals.  Looks good however.  If you want the sails to billow... brush them with some starch (the kind one uses with an iron to iron and starch shirts but not shorts).  Then hang them such so they billow or use a small fan until dry.

Thanks, Guys ....
Well, in lieu of actual sailing knowledge, Our Hero didst try to always consider two points:
Firstly, he didst wish-eth to raise the foot o' his sails a tad to better show-eth off the various detail items (oars, spears, tool-chest, mangoes, hairy coconuts, cutlasses, rope coils  ....) that be to come.
 
And, secondly, he didst doeth his very best to ensure that lines did not cross o'er each other.
 
"At this late stage o' the build," CaptainSteve were heard to complain, "I shall not-eth be adding the bow-sprit to this boat."
 
But, were Our Hero ever to consider a re-build ...
("Not gunna happen !!!", didst he assert, most forcefully.)
 
... but WERE it to be a-happening, or if ye be a-wishing to give yer own Launch a more "proud" look, then CaptainSteve wouldst, most verily, recommend-eth the adding o' a sprit ...
"Runneth the fore-sail clew-line out to ye 'sprit," he didst postulate. "And yer sails shall be a-standing better, me-thinks !!"

Wish I could help Captain, but like you, my skills in the actual "hands-on" aspects of seamanship are lacking. 

I wish I could help you with sorting out your lines, but that's a trick this old dog has still to learn. Arf!
 
You might try sending a pm to avsjerome2003 (aka Crackers). He sails an open boat and may know everything you're wanting to figure out.

And since I be explainin' things, I really should briefly mention the lines that I didst be using  .... 
 
Each sail doth have:
(i) a tack line (at foot)
(ii) a clew line (also at the foot of the sail)
(iii) a lift (running through upper block on each mast)
(iv) two bunt-lines (running through blocks attached to the spars)
 
These are in addition to a pair of back-stays for each mast. This gives a total of 14 lines to be tied off, with the kit supplying 20 belaying pins.

Most verily, CaptainSteve doest not get to spend-eth much time a-modellin’ throughout the week …
 
“At best, I be casting a most critical eye o’er work done thus far,” he didst begineth. “And, on occasion, I has been known to take-eth up me knife and remove-eth that which doth displease-eth me.”
However, with this build (finally) reaching its’ end-game, over these last few days Our Hero didst findeth a few minutes to work on a-fashioning his boat’s rigging lines.
 
"I didst use-eth the kit supplied belaying pins," he were to offer. "Here they be a-soakin' in vinegar to weather 'em a little." 

 
Now, many o’ ye may-est be aware that CaptainSteve be not in truth the Old Salt what ‘is name doth suggest.
“As such,” he didst plead-eth, “I wouldst be most grateful for any comments and suggestions regarding the following series o’ pictures.”
 
“Well, here they be …”

"I do-est wish to give-eth a sense o' the working rigging," Our Hero were to drone on. "Further, adding bunt-lines didst help-eth to gi' me sails a billowed look."
 

Note: Despite the way they look 'ere, there be no lines attached to the tholes.
 

By way of explanation, Our Hero forgot to mention that these lines (wi’ the exception o’ the back-stays) can be untied and moved, if the Horde doest think it necessary.

Sails look even better hanging! But the poo may drip on the thwarts so I hope you're providing antibacterial wipes!

Are you kidding me dangerdan!! I just looked at your Nave Egizia in the gallery. I'm intimidated! That's stunning!
 
I've been wondering where you went to and am looking forward to seeing your whaleboat build. It's good to see you posting on MSW and I'm sure you will have some cool things that will make your whaleboat as stunning as your Nave.
 
Best wishes

Ok now I am intimidated to start my version of this kit!!!  Mine will never look this good!!!  GREAT JOB!!!