mattsayers148

Now that Harry has proven that he is the toughest Nutz on land and sea, the squirrels cried out a loud "Oorah!"
He let the squirrels know, "The harder you work, the higher you'll rank!" Being smart as they are, they instantly knew the higher the rank the higher the pay...more rum!

 
So they joined together as one and worked their little fingers to the bone. They proudly sat back and admired their accomplishment. The planking and the primary sanding done, they decided to put on the first of many coats of natural stain.
Harry was quite pleased. So he tapped a fresh keg and smiled as the squirrels sang "Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum.."

Thanks again to everyone for your encouragement and likes.
 
So goes the treenails. I went with the popular consensus of the #2 pattern and so far looking good. After doing the small mockup I saw how easy it was to mess up on hole placement. I ended up drawing a grid on the hull and marking every single hole. I did each section, port and starboard, at the same time so everything would be symmetrical.
 

 
After I glued in a few hundred, then I'd clip off the extra length and move on to the next section. Once that phase was completed I followed up with a very sharp chisel, cutting the treenails flush with the planks. Then a light sand and follow up with a little wax. Now I move up to the deck.
 

Thanks Ken, Stubby, Sam and everyone for the likes and words of encouragement.
 
I know, I know...I broke the rules and used CA for the first planking. However, the lines of this ship are smooth and gradual. That, and making the planks more true to scale, made things so much easier.
 

 
Now I'm left with a very nice, smooth and flowing surface to double plank. I've been reading MS's book 'Planking the Built-up Ship Model', and I highly recommend it. Made my first stealers which turned out ok, except I should have done one more(note the sliver). But hey, that's what practice is for.
 

 
As I mentioned previously, instead of painting, I plan on leaving finished wood instead. I would like to use different materials to accentuate where these color changes are made. Next up, the decks.
 
 
 

Wow Jim that's really beautiful! And definitely does not look "cheap". On my brass work I antique/blacken everything. How do you keep any tarnishing agents off the brass? Gloves? It's so crisp and shiny. Well done sir, well done indeed!

Started on the chest today

Well I came up with this addition to my windlass to make it look stronger. It seems to look ok?

Thanks Captain, it's only my third(18th century longboat and 21ft English Pinnace). Those kinda started the learning curve. The pinnace got away from me as I used it for a practice run for this model. I scaled down the masts and sails to 1:24 and kinda left the plans behind. I added walnut grating on the seat spot and made my blocks and belay pins from walnut stock. I also chose to use fine crochet thread for all lines and for hand sewing the sails. They didn't turn out too bad for a first effort.

Now we're up to speed. I held off on installing the thwarts to make the stern crane. I ended up laminating 1/32 x 1/8 strips(left over planks from a previous build) on a jig(the lid from my empty sherbet tub) into a half circle. Once dry, I cut them in half to get two identical pieces. Then I clamped together and drilled necessary holes for square alignment. Last nite I made the roller out of stock walnut. I turned it on my trusty poor mans lathe(flex shaft drill). Next for me is forming the windlass.

As I went further on the interior floorboards, more tree nails appeared. Then went in the thwart risers, winch keep, mast steps, breasthook and gunwales, backrest and quarter knees. As a side note, when I bent my frames I used the soak and soldering iron neck, constant movement prevented burning and a very smooth bend. I decided to run the frames in one piece to both sides, I don't know if I just got lucky or what, but I managed this with zero breaks. Afterwards I reused the jig to bend all my tween frames on, so they installed really uniform.

Hey Ken,
 
So me and Jordan looked closely at the "transom" issue. The bench and backrest appear to completely cover the writing. I know you're past the point of flipping it around but this may help those just beginning. I was able to sand mine out as well and it turned out pretty good. Just had to fade the sanding as far as possible to make it less noticeable. Good luck.
 
Matt

Hey Ken, I added extra bracers as well. I like to work on my lap, so I added more than most so I wouldn't crush it.
Also take your time when fairing, I would start in the middle to get a feel for it since it takes very little compared to the ends.
 
Also I'd put a big sticky note that says "WAX!" I had tacked on the ends of the frames to the jig, when I realized I forgot to WAX between frames and jig, that would have been a nightmare.
Good luck and ask away we're all here to help.
 
Matt
 
PS: I soaked my frames a or two before I planed on the bending them.

First off, you're doing an incredible job. I seem to remember wondering why no rat lines. I still am not sure exactly why not. There was discussion about the possibility of rope chairs like this....
 

 
There wasn't much room for living quarters so I'd be inclined to think that the rigging would accommodate a smaller crew.

This is one top notch build, wow! I'm in the midst of a Launch build and will definitely consult your photos during my build. Thanks for your posts along with photos, Matt

No problem Monkeyhead, I try to find the proper knots to do to avoid haveing to seize them. The model supplied ropes feel like nylon and don't hold a knot, whereas cotton thread with wax, you can firmly tie a knot that won't slip.
 
For my launch, and my previous build, I made the sails so that they can be completely unshipped. Good luck, your boat looks really awesome! I finally got to go through your build log and am very impressed.
 
Matt

Hey Monkeyhead, a fairly cheap replacement for model supplied ropes. I use Dolfus-Mieg & Co(DMC) cordonnet special thread for all of my rigging. It's mercerized(chemically burned to remove hair) cotton which darkens if you wax them. If you wane colors, DMC brilliant tatting thread comes in many colors. These can be found on eBay (or from a store/friends stash) for fairly cheap and will eliminate the fraying. DMC come in sizes 3-100 to match up to scale on your build. Very nice barracoe, water cask, water keg, water breaker. You're right they're same yet different,
 
Matt

This is the final resting place of my Launch, in my bosses office. I'll be organizing photos for the gallery and have them posted soon.

Thanks Ken, I've been diggin for screws small enough to work. My eyes were dartin around the room when my wife asked what the heck I'm doing. "Come on, really, I'm looking for something to tear apart in here that may have some tiny screws that I need." Needless to say, all items in our room remain untouched. So I did what I could on the slide carriage, still got a ways to go, but it's a starting point.

Thank you Frank, Boyd, Mark, CaptainSteve and to all for the likes and continuing encouragement.
 
So the final chapter of the Pirate Ship has been written. The Nutz and Bawlz Clans are ready to embark on their maiden voyage. Once on the high seas, they shall bring terror to all who encounter them.
 
It's hard to pick an exact ending point to this build, but I think I've arrived. Early on I had the idea of adding lighting, but realized that I would need a lot of advanced planning to accomplish this, which I didn't do. So I settled on just one simple lantern. The inspiration for this came from the Syren Ship Model Company's stern lantern kit. I modified it to a hand held lantern and added a red LED, well, to add at least one light feature.
 

 
I came up with an unusual solution to disguise the battery and switch which I added to CaptainSteve's Kit Bashers Guide. I'll let those who are more proficient at electronics to correct any errors in this process. The battery and cables are hidden in the cargo hold.

 
It may take a few days for me to work up photos for the gallery, but I assure you they will come. I want to thank everyone so much for the continued encouragement and help that you've given me through this "flying by the seat of my pants" build. I wonder, as most have, on what comes next, so it's been a journey with many turns.
 
As it sits right now, my next build will be the Benjamin W. Latham American fishing schooner by MS. It's a nice 1:48 scale so there's room for a lot of details and a reasonable amount of bashing. Off to the Dark side!!!

Thanks to everyone for all the likes and encouragement.
 
Things are finally getting close to the end. For the stand, I repurposed an old oak door I got from the rebuild center for $2. Last year a trip was made to an obsidian flow in eastern Oregon where I got both mahogany and rainbow obsidian. The volcanic glass was broken into shards and and set in cement patch to represent water. I wasn't really sure of the outcome, but it seems to look ok.
 

 
The door was distressed with alternating red mahogany and natural grey Minwax, hand scraping between each coat and finished off with steel wool.
 

 
After much contemplation, I resolved on a location for the ebony skull. At first I thought of putting it on the point of the bowsprit, but it really looked out of place. This spot made it blend in much better.
 

 
I used my extra barrels, sailcloth, timber and botched cannons to fill up the cargo hold. There's still a couple minor details to work out, but overall it's mostly complete.
 

Thanks Boyd, Buck, CH and those who punch the like button.
 
Work in the shipyard has been moving steadily. Starting to button up with all of the rope coils and other furnishings.
 

 
I search through many photos for culverins/swivel guns that were in use during this time period and came up with a lot. So I took the liberty of letting my mind wander through the ages. Not sure if there's not enough or too many. Wait a minute...can a pirate ship have too much artillery? Nope!
 

Thanks George, Frank, CaptainSteve, Mark, Ken, Boyd, gerty, CH, Sam and all those hitting the like button. You kind words are a great encouragement.
 
The sails are finally completed. Now I can focus on deck furnishings.
 

Thank Russ, Ken, CH, Sam, HH, Mark and to everyone who beat the like button like a red headed stepchild. Your encouragement and support are greatly appreciated.
 
Work on the deck fixtures has been progressing along fairly well. Quarter bits, chocks, belaying pins, galley light, smoke stack, seine roller and chain box with 90 fathoms of chain.
 

 
I finally broke down and bought Chapelle's book
The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935. An incredibly detailed listing of ships and their parts are of great help. I wish I'd bought it in the start.
 
So next on the list is the windlass and all it's parts. Thankfully Chapelle's book is quite detailed for this. Onward!

From what very little I've read, Bligh seems to be focused on surviving and getting home, for everyone on board. I can see if one of us got lost in the woods for weeks we'd write about the bear, or a salty, that almost got us, not the rash we got from the poison oak leaves that was used as TP. I think that's why I pay more attention to what's Not written.
The patch idea does seem to be a safer way because you could apply and take it of if you find it unsightly.
My wife almost had a heart attack when I mentioned I may age my boat by dragging it through the gravel in the yard, that idea is still in the back of my head.
Whatever you chose, I'm sure will look great.
 
Matt

Thanks Jack, Mark, Ken, David, Michael, Richard and to those who hit the like button.
 
A P Stoddart

 
This era and area(Glocester) turned out a lot of new inventions and ideas, giving way to motor power and phasing out wind power. The Stoddart Co was one of these. There was the worm drive and the Stoddart improved vessel steerer.

 
The thought crossed my mind to attempt to replicate this complex mechanism, which was soon dismissed, mostly because it all gets covered. So here's my attempt at a more realistic wheel than the kit provided part. There's over 20 pieces to this wheel which proved to test my soldering skills, I have much to learn. Maybe I should send it off to Buck to have him put the Stoddart logo on it.
 

 
This was the second rudder with pintles and gudgeons I made, having made the first rudder 1/2 as thick as it should be. Also I decided to apply Cherry Minwax to the cherry and poplar, giving it a more subtle contrast.
 

 
Onward!

Stubby, when you cut, do it close to the node(leaving it). It'll help prevent it from splitting while it dries. Leaving them in a window sill exposed to the sun works well.