dafi

Three photos shewing the rail and centre legs in place.
 

 

 

My son then took some photos which cruely shew up the rough edges. 
 
The first is the pulley face on. You should be able to see the square edges around the boss produced by the two milling passes to produce each face of the spokes.
 

 
The second shews the new pulley resting on the tray awaiting the support brackets (complete with stray bit of dog hair).
 
 
 
Next up is bracket production which will require a dedicated session with the mill. Should be interesting. 

The next item that decided to tackle was the larger pulley for the rotisserie. The stove replica on the Victory shews it as having four spokes. So an interesting session with miller and lathe was called for.
 
The final pulley is 3mm outside diameter. The materials that I used were some 3mm diameter thin walled brass tube for the rim and for the spokes and hub some 5mm diameter rod would be machined. The axle was to be 0.7mm N/S rod.
 
I tried to photo these parts as I made them but my camera is not up to items this small. I should have waited until my son was available with his better camera - but I was impatient to crack on.
 
First I chucked a 10cm length of the brass rod in the lathe and end drilled it 0.7mm. The end of the rod was faced with the tool stopping just short of the 0.7mm hole to leave a raised boss. Then I turned its diameter down to 3mm dia for 6mm length. Then I turned down 3mm length of the end of the rod so that the tube just fitted.
 
Next I tranferred the rod (still in the lathe chuck) to the indexing unit on the lathe. I then milled along the rod from the end. Between each spoke I milled the rod twice to shape the leading edge of each spoke and then the trailing edge. After each pass I rotated the indexing unit 90 degrees. I did all the leading edges first then the four trailling edges after.
 
This left the end of the rod shaped like a cross with a bossed hole in the centre.
 
The following poor photo attempts to illustrate this.
 

 
I cut a 6mm length of brass tube which I soldered on to the milled cross being careful not to fill in the gaps between the spokes with blobs of solder. This butted up against the 3mm lip. I took the rod out of the chuck to do this to avoid getting flux on it. A quick rinse in dilute caustic solder to neutralize the flux then back in to the chuck on the lathe. 
 
I had marked a jaw and the rod so that in lining up the marks up when back in the chuck concentricity would be maintained.
 
I turned the end of the tube back until it was level with the raised boss. This produced some swarf around the spokes that needed clearing out.
 
I parted off the wheel giving a flange width of 0.5mm and finally soldered the pulley on the end of some 0.7mm rod.
 
The next photo shews the 3mm diameter pulley at this stage along with the raw materials from which it was produced.
 

Time to do the rotisserie brackets.
 
Examination of the plans and the pictures indicate that the brackets are actually "L" shaped when viewed from above. So I decided to replicate this. The advantage is that part of the brackets going down the side of the stove will be quite thin and the front of the brackets will be wider. This gives a nice thickness of material from which to make the hooks on which the rotisserie shaft sits.
 
So I started by cutting a 9mm wide strip of 1mm thick N/S. I cut this in two and soldered the two parts together so that I could cut the elevation shape of the two parts in one go.
 
A filed one long side so that it was straight, then filed one end square - this would be the top corner of the brackets. I put the work piece in the mill vice with the trued end horizontal. Then using a 1.5mm bit I cut 2mm deep slots at 2mm intervals. This left a set of five fingers 2mm long by 0.5mm wide. I then milled the left side of each of these fingers down to 0.2mm wide. In retrospect it would have been better to reduce them to 0.1mm but I chickened out. The next photo shews the machined part still in the mill vice.
 

 
 
I then transferred the workpiece to the bench vice and gently tweeked the fingers over. This is where their being 0.1mm would have made life easier - I could have got a better curve to them. I decided against anealing since I didn't want the two parts to move or seperate - I also didn't want to risk burning the little fingers with the blow torch.
 
My tweeking left a couple of fingers slightly higher then the others so I place a thick piece of brass across the ends of all the fingers and gave it a gentle top with a small hammer. This brought them all in to line. The next photo shews the result.
 

 
Next I marked out the piece to the final elevation shape and cut it out.
 

The two parts were now seperated and soldered, facing each other, on a piece of scrap brass. This was clamped on to the mill and each part was milled in to their final "L" cross section. 
 

 
I cut a 3mm wide strip of 0.1mm thick brass. Parts made from this were soldered on to the front and back of each bracket to represent the clamps that hold them to the stove. One of the brackets was fixed in place. The other was then held in place with a modified clothes peg. The lower pulley and its spindle were temporarily put in place and the second bracket adjusted so that the shaft and the grate bars were parallel.
 

 
Once all was parallel I soldered on the second bracket.

A couple of photos showing the brackets in place with the two pulleys temporarily fitted - the lifting rings need to be finished before permanently fixing these.
 

 

 
After looking at the above photos I decided the horizontal part of the brackets looked a bit fat. So I checked their measurements. They should be 1mm deep - I have somehow managed to miss the fact that I made them 1.25mm deep. 0.25mm doesn't sound much, but on this item it is a 25% error.   Sadly they are well soldered in place so it would be difficult to change them now.
 
Note to self - check your measurements more carefully as you work in future.  
 
   

Here are some recent images of her after I added some more stays and the jibboom.

Another of the Ferriera at her shallow mooring

I tend to build ships that manufacturers don't build...and I wanted to build the Ferriera..the Portugues Barkenine of the CS.
 
She was caught in a storm..and her cargo shifted and she nearly capsized..resulting in her dismasting of her main and top mizzen mast.  She spent much of het time in coastal waters and back water ports.  I chose to model her in these conditions.  She was extremely under maintained and was in severe need of nerw paint and maintenance.

"Are you cutting the mortises for the  carlings with the beams already glued in place or prior to fixing the beams?"
Hast du die Scheerstockspuren / Auflager für die Scheerstöcke und Rippen vor dem Einbau in die Deckbalken geschnitten oder erst nach dem Einbau?
 
Gruß, Daniel

"Are you cutting the mortises for the  carlings with the beams already glued in place or prior to fixing the beams?"
Hast du die Scheerstockspuren / Auflager für die Scheerstöcke und Rippen vor dem Einbau in die Deckbalken geschnitten oder erst nach dem Einbau?
 
Gruß, Daniel

"Are you cutting the mortises for the  carlings with the beams already glued in place or prior to fixing the beams?"
Hast du die Scheerstockspuren / Auflager für die Scheerstöcke und Rippen vor dem Einbau in die Deckbalken geschnitten oder erst nach dem Einbau?
 
Gruß, Daniel

Confirmed ;-)
 
XXXDAn

OK, they got me!
 
I arrived at Chatham station (UK) to meet Mobbsie for our tour of Chatham Dockyard, and was delightfully surprised to be met by Sjors and Anja as well. What a wonderful surprise it was too. We all had a great day at Chatham Dockyard where Mobbsie had arranged a private viewing of the model collection. What a treat! We were like kids in a candy store! Then we all came back to Mobbsie's place where his Admiral (Christine) had prepared a delicious roast dinner. We all ate and drank and told tall tales and true, amid much laughter. Had the opportunity to inspect Mobbsie's work first hand - and I have to say it looks even better in the flesh than in the pictures he has posted.
 
Sjors has already posted a few pics, but here is one of all of us. I'm the one looking like Santa Claus minus the red suit!
 

 
What a great example of the power of this forum, to bring together people from all over the world, and on meeting for the first time it's like we have been lifelong friends.
 
Thanks Mobbsie for arranging it all, and thanks Anja and Sjors for making the effort to come over for the weekend. And of course, thanks to Admiral Christine (C-in-C Home Fleet) for your gracious hospitality.

Yes, The wiring goes out through the keel, I have yet to come up with an idea of how to conseal the wiring on dispaly but I probably have a few years to come up with something.
 
I have had a lot of other projects during the summer but Victory has not been idle.
A rather serious computor meltdown has resulted in a lot of pictures and materials beeing lost. I really need to learn to make backups more frequently.
I rather liked the pictures that Rob has put into the gunports to give them some life. Rob has been kind enough to give me some of his pictures so I can make a similar arrangement.
 
The upper gunportpatterns are now fitted to the ship although the two lower patterns are only dry fitted in order to drill the holes for the false guns. My plan is to drill theese holes centered using a simple little jig that guides the drill. The pictures will then be fitted centering the guncarriges to the holes......Well I´ll post more pictures as I go along.
 
A small problem arose when dryfitting the patterns the middle one portrudes above the bow about 3-4 mm Im not sure if thats correct.  The lower one did not fit perfectly at the stern as I had to move it slightly forward in order not to have a bulkhead blocking one of the gunports. I dont think this will be to much of a problem though as it will all be planked over and painted.
 
More to come
 
Erik
 
I

Most of the photos in all of my previous posts have pretty much been 'historic' ~~~meaning that they represent parts of my build that have taken place over a period all the way back to late 2010.  I've already mentioned that there were a few lengthy lay-off periods  . . .
. . . but now this log is pretty much in 'real time' and whatever is posted from now on will be of current parts of the build.
 
Right now, I'm wrestling somewhat with the stern parts and will be putting that to the side while I pay some attention to other less frustrating parts.
In the last few days I've been fiddling around with some smaller bits n' pieces. 
 
Picture stories > > >
 
These 'over-the-counter' spindles cut into large and small sections >>>
 

 
. . . the larger sections going here >>>
 

 
. . . to form this >>>
 

 
A few deck rings, a single shot garland, and the main bitts have been attempted; and while the garland and the rings are now a permanent part of the ship, the bitts and the quarterdeck rail are only dry-fitted. The rail and bitts are just too fragile and vulnerable to be fitted at this stage, and will go in "the box" with a few other delicate things already made.
 

 

 
Now, a 10 day break in France beckons in a few days time,   so there won't be much progress for a couple of weeks.
 
 
 
 

Christian,
 
As I'm having a measure of success with the wood I'm pressing on with trying to make wooden spindles. When I say I'm having success I'm also having some failures, but I'm having more successful cuts than failures, so I'll keep going for now anyway.
 
However, while I grind away at the tedium of trying to sort the stern quarters I'm also diverting to other (less tedious!) parts of the build from time to time.
 
The poop deck now has its planking done.
 

 

Jy Hym!
 
Changing the material might be the better solution... Yes it is very brave to stay with wood - but it may be hopeless to be too fundamentalistic in the vote of the material. Untill a specific thinness is reached everything is okay - but if you undercut a specific measuring value the wood will got broken by the loading of its own wight!
 
Its a physical law.
 
WHO is to blame for your bad situation?
 
Guilty is a guy called :mellow: Isaac Newton... 
 
He brought, introduced and promoted a so called law of nature - and only because of his *heavily censored swarewords* law we are forced to crawl on all fourth under our workbench and try to find the corpulating little pice of anything we worked on for the last hours or days...
 
As Canada was whilom a part of the Commonwealth - you might put this case before the House of Lords (today there might be s.th. like a the Supreme Court of the United Kingdom.. or better ask for me also and drag the guy and our task before the Worldsecuritycouncil.
 
DOWN    WITH      GRAVITY!    
 
and everything would have been better if he lived on the Caribian Ilands (see below)...
 
Yours,
Christian
 
 
If you fall - I'll be there.
                            The floor

Thanks Christian.
 
As I said in my previous post, I have removed the offending parts of these stern window frames and have made a brief start at trying to remedy the problem.
I'm attempting to attach individual horizontal muntins between the verticals and it is proving to be very tricky ~ they are only about 2mm - 2.5mm in length and less than 0.5mm thick so I don't know how successful this will be. Meanwhile, I find it is sometimes better to walk away from a difficult task and to do something else, then return at a later time.
If this doesn't prove to be reasonably satisfactory I will have to re-think another strategy. I'll be looking at some of your suggestions.
 
After I had initially attached these 'not-so-good' stern parts (several weeks ago) I set about making preparations for the poop deck >
 

 

 
 
 
 

Thanks Nils and Christian.
 
You're right Christian ~~~ there is always plenty of work before us! Thanks again for your photo.
When I reach the completed hull stage I may place it on a pedestal for a while . . . before I move on to the rigging.
So now you are reading 4 books! . . . you'll have to make sure you have time to get on with building your Wolf - I'll be watching your buildlog.
 
Back to Leopard.  By the time I had planked the quarterdeck I was beginning to think about that part of the build that I had been "putting on the back burner" for some time. THE STERN QUARTERS !
Oh Dear !!! ~ I felt it was time to think about how I could possibly create anything that would resemble what I had been looking at in the drawings.
. . . and here is what I saw every time I looked at the drawings :-
 

 
>>> The photo above shows the spindles/balusters that run along the stern 'balcony' and round the port and starboard galleries are hardly 1mm at their thickest point and at their thinnest part they are less than 0.5mm, and the window muntins are also less than 1mm in thickness, so I knew that there was no way that I would be able to create anything so tiny that would look like these spindles.
In my lack of knowledge I had already "created" these unconventional 'structures' at the stern as shown below :-
 
 

 
 
So ~ after lots of attempts to think of how I could transform that monstrosity into a 'look-alike' stern I decided to form each side (port & starboard) and the upper and Q'deck sterns as individual units that could be brought to the ship and glued in position. 
Here's what it looks like in the early stages -
 

That's a good idea, the pictures of the both 50-guns Experiment and Portland may be helpfull to your project.
No I don't think it's compleetly inaccurrat - the lower gunports may be closed in a fighting situation in a not calm sea - to avoid an end like Mary Rose or Vasa...
 
Theri is always a plenty of work before us, Jim, but the goal of an fully rigged ship with striked saily placed in tree-angled nets on the top of the middle of the yards is a great goal...Here at the model of the Jean D'Arc form the Alma Class very well done.
So today my Planking historical ship models about HMS Cruiser arrived - and so I read now four books parallely - there is allways a plenty of work to be done...
 
@all - is it possibe to interrupt the Project when the hull is ready for the showcase and to readopt the project for rigging later on?
 
Yours
Christian

Well, one side done! Now for more... I have just flipped the image over.. when I was doing the tiles I took images every day and looked at them on the computer to see if I was going "off course".  This did assist and picked up errors as I was going. You might try it too. The tiles really reflect anything in the room. Hard to get a picture.
 

On to the transom.  I'm still figuring out how I want to build the transom, but I am able to go ahead and start planking and fixing my errors on the transom extensions.



 
Front view before I started planking the wales.

Planking the port Wales.


 
I bought some of these metal plank clamps and haven't used them yet.  Finally found a use, drilling a hole into the filler block is not as bad as drilling into the bulkheads.  They make clamping the wet plank around a compound curve easy.  I clamped the counter planks in place and let them dry, then removed the clamps, final shaped the plank and glued it on (without the clamp of course)

Thank you ZyXuz
 
Got the port Wales sanded.  Gotta tell you planking the counter was a pain, as I knew it would be. But i can say I learned several things, the biggest was I didn't sand the counter filler block enough.  I've already applied that lesson to the starboard side.  Gonna take a little wood filler to fix it up.  I know this hull is painted, but I'm trying to plank this hull as if it would be left natural as practice for future builds (read Confederacy!).  Which means no filler if possible...
Anyway, pics...