dafi

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Alan, my pleasure!
 
Her some more real old copper, seen in museum in Oudeschild Texel, where the famous dioprama of the roadstead with the dutch fleet is shown.
 
Just enjoy the laying pattern, the adjustments in the edges and around the fittings, the patches and my favorite piece: the hole of the rudder jeer  🙂
 

I thought of a setting tool as well, but I doubt anyone other than you would possess one, Eberhard!

making the 1st of many paint shop visits tomorrow. ty everyone

The 'original' color was exposed to a lot of sunlight, then sealed by successive pain coats,  so depending on the constituents of the oldest paint - subtle (or not so subtle) shade changes may well have occurred.  If cheaper yellow elements (like turmeric, but there are others) had been added to the mix for economy - after all the Victory had a lot of square footage to cover - that might explain what has been described as a 'pinkish' color.  Conjecture, of course, but another reason might be that there was a priming layer laid on first that had a little red ochre in the mix - followed by a top coat of a 'yellower' paint.  A Google summary is:
The true color of the yellow/ochre stripe on early 19th-century British warships, especially around the Napoleonic era (like the famous "Nelson Chequer"), was  a pale, natural yellow made from yellow ochre pigment, often mixed with white for a lighter, buttery or even lemon-yellow hue, sometimes described as "baby puke yellow," rather than a dark, brownish ochre, with modern analysis of ships like HMS Victory confirming it was a lighter shade, even a hint of salmon pink in earlier layers, though the iconic look was a distinct, pale yellow-buff.  Key Details: Ingredients: The paint used natural ochre (a clay pigment), lead white, chalk, and linseed oil, with variations depending on availability and desired shade. Nelson's Preference: Lord Nelson favored a pale yellow, even requesting brighter mixes with white, but the Admiralty often stuck to standard ochre, though his preference for the yellow/black checkered look became famous after Trafalgar. Variations: The color wasn't uniform; some ships used darker ochres, while others might have had red ochre during the Seven Years' War, but the classic Napoleonic look was that pale yellow-buff. Modern Interpretations: Research on HMS Victory suggests earlier layers were pinkish, but the iconic yellow stripe was a pale, light yellow, distinct from deep, brownish ochres.  Then again, ships of all sorts were often modified in their career (sometimes drastically), so it depends on which point in time the modeler wants to represent - just do the research, and as Daniel Boone said, "Go ahead."   I know I've been 'stuck in the weeds' on one or more projects for years - just trying to decide the place and time to be represented, then researching how to justify a particular impression.       Johnny

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

Matt it is!
 
🙂
 
XXXDAn

Not to forget, these instructions were done more than 45 years ago and base on the 1920 reconstruction. Thus said one understand the color "cadmium yellow" being indicated in the instructions. And yes, I have pictures of the ship in cadmium yellow as it once was 🙂
 
Yellow ochre, sunflower yellow or yellow ochre blended with red and white (latest result, but sure not last), also feel free a bit for your own taste. The correct shade of color will surely never be revealed as even "newer" ships like Bismark there are raging discussions about this topic ...
 
XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

Oups, and I forgot to tell you that before the planned mess, we first had to test fit the new parts.

Non-existent openings in the admiral's quarters were marked...

... cut out ...

... and adjusted to the bulkheads.


The coamings and gratings were also adapted to their openings, or vice versa.

And at some point, the upper battery deck was completely covered with coamings.

The same procedure was followed for the forecastle and aft deck.

The coamings are not as high here, as there were open decks underneath.

In the area of the main mast, the gratings can be taken out, as there are some ropes leading to the bits in the deck below. This makes it easier to belay them.

I also installed those bits and, as a little treat, a new hand pump was also installed there.


Then the coamings were given their colour. The gratings were then masked off and painted light brown, then inked very thinly with black ink and brushed with white.


And then there was the slave labour: gluing in the cannonballs...

... and securing them on the underside with thin-flow superglue.

Finally, I doped the railing with the net holders...

... and add some thickness to the gangway with white Evergreen on the underside ...

... and this part of the task is finished.

Next, I had to come to terms with the not *quite* correct planking pattern. A few beers later, I was fine ...

Then I realised that the plank gaps were much too wide and would be far too prominent for my liking when filled with paint or wash. So I came up with the following plan: I sprayed the deck black ...

... and then scraped off with a blade so that the black paint remained in the depths like preshading. As always with my best plans, it ended up being a big mess.

Then I tried out different shades of brown, both solvent-based, acrylic and water-based, in various opacities. It resulted in a pretty patchwork.

The forecastle in particular was quite colourful ...

... which is why grey tones were used on the gangway.

But what can I say, I really didn't have such a grimy deck in mind. So I sprayed it again and stripped it off again.

In the meantime, I had remembered the other moulded parts, especially the gratings, which I had tuned to wood. That was the specification it had to match. And even though there are usually no major colour differences in the wood on original decks, except for traces of moisture, preshading with black prevents it from looking too much like a painted steel deck. You just have to throw your imagination a few little treats now and then to keep it happy. It was just a matter of finding the right balance. So I applied three glazed coats of paint until the black was only very faintly visible.



Interestingly, the plastic of the upper deck was a light beige, while the lower deck was reddish brown. This was easily remedied by applying a grey glaze under the brown glazes.

This technique also brings the area under the forecastle, which has no plank engraving, to life so well that engraving was not necessary and simple pencil strokes can substitude the engraving. I think that, given the limited visibility of this area, this is a good effort-appearance ratio.

So, quickly in with the printed parts...

...and take some beauty shots.

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

Matt it is!
 
🙂
 
XXXDAn

Not to forget, these instructions were done more than 45 years ago and base on the 1920 reconstruction. Thus said one understand the color "cadmium yellow" being indicated in the instructions. And yes, I have pictures of the ship in cadmium yellow as it once was 🙂
 
Yellow ochre, sunflower yellow or yellow ochre blended with red and white (latest result, but sure not last), also feel free a bit for your own taste. The correct shade of color will surely never be revealed as even "newer" ships like Bismark there are raging discussions about this topic ...
 
XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

And this was the result of what I was able to complete during the public crafting session at the trade fair.





The gratings also have the correct different thicknesses for the longitudinal and transverse battens on the underside.


The admiral's quarters area was given a chequerboard floor.

Here you can also clearly see the rollers of the bitts in the deck below.



And the forecastle looks much more structured and tidier too.

Well, that's it for now 🙂

XXXDAn

Not to forget, these instructions were done more than 45 years ago and base on the 1920 reconstruction. Thus said one understand the color "cadmium yellow" being indicated in the instructions. And yes, I have pictures of the ship in cadmium yellow as it once was 🙂
 
Yellow ochre, sunflower yellow or yellow ochre blended with red and white (latest result, but sure not last), also feel free a bit for your own taste. The correct shade of color will surely never be revealed as even "newer" ships like Bismark there are raging discussions about this topic ...
 
XXXDAn

Well, I made mine mine a decade ago and did indeed use yellow ochre for the hull stripes. Shortly thereafter, the HMS Victory restoration team announced that they had taken a core drill sample and separated out all the paint layers and found the "true" colours from Nelson's time. As they were in the middle of a 20-years restoration they painted the entire ship in these colours. The result was a bit surprising as the stripes had a distinctly pinkish tinge. At any rate, I believe they have since once again stripped off much of her outer planking after discovering more water penetration due to laminated planks used in previous restorations.
 
I would advise against using Heller's Humbrol "scorched earth" for things like the hatch coamings and ship's wheel......I did this and it is too reddish; a nice brown would be better. Here is a pic of my model during the build,  with the reddish hatches on the forecastle and the yellow ochre which it was too late to change.

 
Here is a video about the repainting of the real ship.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmNXRWtQ-P0
 
 

Oups, and I forgot to tell you that before the planned mess, we first had to test fit the new parts.

Non-existent openings in the admiral's quarters were marked...

... cut out ...

... and adjusted to the bulkheads.


The coamings and gratings were also adapted to their openings, or vice versa.

And at some point, the upper battery deck was completely covered with coamings.

The same procedure was followed for the forecastle and aft deck.

The coamings are not as high here, as there were open decks underneath.

In the area of the main mast, the gratings can be taken out, as there are some ropes leading to the bits in the deck below. This makes it easier to belay them.

I also installed those bits and, as a little treat, a new hand pump was also installed there.


Then the coamings were given their colour. The gratings were then masked off and painted light brown, then inked very thinly with black ink and brushed with white.


And then there was the slave labour: gluing in the cannonballs...

... and securing them on the underside with thin-flow superglue.

Finally, I doped the railing with the net holders...

... and add some thickness to the gangway with white Evergreen on the underside ...

... and this part of the task is finished.

Oups, and I forgot to tell you that before the planned mess, we first had to test fit the new parts.

Non-existent openings in the admiral's quarters were marked...

... cut out ...

... and adjusted to the bulkheads.


The coamings and gratings were also adapted to their openings, or vice versa.

And at some point, the upper battery deck was completely covered with coamings.

The same procedure was followed for the forecastle and aft deck.

The coamings are not as high here, as there were open decks underneath.

In the area of the main mast, the gratings can be taken out, as there are some ropes leading to the bits in the deck below. This makes it easier to belay them.

I also installed those bits and, as a little treat, a new hand pump was also installed there.


Then the coamings were given their colour. The gratings were then masked off and painted light brown, then inked very thinly with black ink and brushed with white.


And then there was the slave labour: gluing in the cannonballs...

... and securing them on the underside with thin-flow superglue.

Finally, I doped the railing with the net holders...

... and add some thickness to the gangway with white Evergreen on the underside ...

... and this part of the task is finished.

And for really tiny applications these applicators are unbeatable.

They do not need to be closed and stay open for a long time. If closed, just cut off a quarter of a millimeter and its fresh again.
 
Only safety hint: Start pressing gently until the air bubble rises. If it does not rise the tube immediately it is closed and needs to be cut. And if you cut after having applied too much pressure it will release quite a bit of glue until the over pressure is released.
 
Otherwise this cheap things reduced the amount of wasted glue immensely!

XXXDAn