dafi

Here we go again, here we go, here we go, here we go.
Awakened from the slumber, she is, my little chubby one with the black and yellow stripes that make slim. She wants to become pretty. Last September weekend, this sweetie wants to go out to party, wants to party in Amsterdam, in the ship museum. She is looking forward to it, and I am looking forward to it 🙂
XXXDAn

Used the nice weather to sand outside. Good for the tinkering cave, the nose and the soul.
 

 

 


Just enjoy.

XXXDAn

After raising the bow and stern, it was time for the upper deck. To do this, remove the deck, fix the polysterol strip for the new bulwark with clamps ...



... and scribe the curve of the lower deck with a blade. Then set the cut, put the deck back in, clamped the fitted bulwark piece again and scribed it with a block on the inside to have a uniform height above the deck. Then removed, cut the height cleanly and ...



... glued in place. You can hardly see it, there are little wooden blocks glued under the clamps on the outside of the hull, just like on the bow, so that it is flush on the outside.

And slowly it's becoming "something"  😉



The elements on the deck are still orientation aids made of cardboard and not dimensionally adjusted, but you can already see where it's going.



The raised bow ...



... the quarterdeck with Nelson's sloop under the poop ...



... the small guard house, behind it two flag boxes still missing and probably the biggest surprise for the most of you ...



... the forecastle over the forecastle, the fore-fore-castle so to speak.



Hardly visible from the outside ...



... unless someone is standing on it :-)




XXXDAn

Thank you gentlemen 😀

One already suffers as a model builder 😉

And when I'm not doing such nonsense, I'm busy at the moment with the elevations of the sides. During the rebuilding in 1816 the high round bow was installed according to Seppings. Everything was first a cardboard template. Here is the immensely high new bow ...



... then along the upper deck ...



... and the built poop.





A face that only a mother could love - or a dafi http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

Then transfer of the masks to 2 mm polysterol ...



... warm up this round nose part ...



... and pre-bend it.



But 2 mm polysterol doesn't quite want to go the way I want, even with heat, so I cold bend it over the edge of the table until it's nice & soft.



And for further help I had already installed supports inside ...



... and since I still have concerns, I also glued something on the outside to hold it up, no, it's not hawse-pieces, that's coming off again http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif


And somehow it was important now that I got the next parts done, just so for the sore soul ...





And now the worst part for me: patience to let it dry well!

XXXDAn  

Actually I only wanted to cut a new upper deck. To do this, I put the large 2mm polysterol sheet on the table, pushed the model to the edge and ...
 

 
... must have been one of the active gale-force winds, I can't explain it any other way.
 
First look, everything went well. Second look, no, 2 windows are missing, stupid but no problem, I have already produced enough replacements.
 
But then ...
 

 
... I had glued the struts for the elevation of the bow on a section of the upper battery deck shortly before. This, of course, was also loose. And when I tried to reattach it I noticed, ****, the hull is suddenly 2 mm wider than before !?!!
 

 
The two upper decks were only put in without being glued in order to be able to take them out again for the installation of the window panes. But the gap on the side is clearly visible.
 
So I did what was only thought of much later, cut the "carriages" off the windows ...
 

 
... and the upper 2 decks were succesively taken out and the culprit was discovered: the lower gun deck.
 

 
This was the only one glued in and was it broken and tilted and so could not flex back.
 
So I drilled some holes and used hooks to lever the deck back up ...
 

 
... and re-glued it well.
 
In the meantime I found 6 more loose windows, but they could all be kept in situ, only one at the very front I had to glue in a replacement part.
 

 
The other decks are now also back inside and I could continue.
 
XXXDAn

And we continued with sanding and filling ...
 

 
... there is still a long way to go ...
 

 
... until its smooth as a baby's bum 😉
 
XXXDAn

Since I have once again scored some stupid mistakes, I recant all and everything and claim the opposite 😉
 
First for orientation the side view with port numbering, the original photo is mirrored, as the following interior views also show the port side.
 

 
First the fat mistake: when I was sitting in front of the hull and wanted to sand it, I suddenly thought, oh my dear, since when are the signal guns not in the
upper deck but in the middle deck?
 

 
Its because I had mistakenly assigned the following picture to the upper deck because of the gun mounts :-0
 

 
But it is clearly the middle deck, also recognisable by the top of the forward capstan. What confused me were the guns behind the signal guns.
So I looked at the photos again and rediscovered a detail I had already had forgotten a long time ago:  
 

 
Windows 4,5,6 with the yellow circle are the signal guns of the middle deck, followed by an obscured window and then in 8 and 9 guns!
The interior view shows 3 guns at this place. Further beyond a gun can be seen at the very back, which has the breechline lying on it like in this picture:
 

 
You can also see that there doesn't seem to be a booth at the entrance port, only a small indistinct structure can be seen.
 

 
I have also numbered the picture of the upper deck according to the outside view for better understanding.
 

 
The pipe inside is between ports 7 and 8. The pipe outside can be seen just before port 9 and is probably hidden behind by the hanging knee.
As described before, I suspect a booth around of window 10 due to the shadow on the deck and the 2 guns - also guessable in the deck shadow - in 11 and 12 and behind the bulkhead gun 13.
 
It remains exciting, DAniel

I believe that the warping of the bars comes from the movement of the build plate: the dynamics of the resin whilst going up and down. And seen how soft the uncured resin is, and also by the fact that these bars are 0,36 mm in diameter with a height of 7,6 mm it i a miracle that even this result is possible 🙂
 
I adapted the basic size of the frame to actualk used windowframe, that is 1 mm lower and increased the thickness up to 0,4 mm and will see what the next print does. The new thickness is 10% more 😉
 
all the best, DAnniel

A long time ago, I had once packed the night house and the steering wheel on a small vignette to protect them, but this small deck then broke in the middle. Fortunately without further damage to the important parts. So the thought was to glue the parts back together, put two deck beams into the hull, the vignette on top and all is tidied up and safe. So I reinforced the bottom of the vignette because of the crack and placed it on the deck beams, fixed tiller rope underneath and rejoiced.





Then I noticed that the rudder was then no longer moving, especially the tiller was nice to look at so far.

So what follows: Demolition of the just built. The plan was to run the tiller rope in a loop under the night house to keep the movability. But the rope was already short trimmed ...



So I threaded the old rope back, threading an auxiliary thread through it to thread the new one in. Was tricky, but worked. Then the new rope was in quickly and the loop was laid quickly too.

But what a mess. The friction in the system was too high, rudder and tiller could not be moved. FUHUCK!



Sewing machine oil didn't help either. Why? The friction just allowed to move the rudder when pulling on one side of the rope, but with the added other side, it was now just too much for the system. So the new rope with auxiliary thread were threaded out again and the old threaded back in ...

But it still was a good decision, as the guys in the gunroom can no longer bang their heads against the tiller. Due to the thick skulls down there, the tiller sweep was already limited for a long time anyway. Ok, mobility is missing, but so there are at least no blokes that would have literally been knocked off the their stools.

But in the meantime the small piece of deck looked a bit piddly to me, so it followed what had to follow - demolition: dafi is back in the modeler's life.

Thank you for the hints Kevin, I will have a look at it!
 
Those bars are 0,36 mm, I know that I was going to the limits, as I always do. For a short distance even thinner bars are possible, I realised  0,2 mm is even under best conditions a realistic limit 🙂
 
This was the white Resin from Anycubic. That is not as good as the black one from Anycubic, that I usually take. The black one has almost no failures, whilst the white one sometimes (rarely) loses the parts from the building plate. Also I have the feeling that the black prints are sharper in the details like corners etc., but that could be a visual desception. In the very start I used the grey eleegoo standard resin and had big trouble as nothing wanted to stick too the building plate, then I tried the black Anycubic with the same settings and never had troublke again 🙂
 
I  do only take the resin out of the tank if a part got lost, otherwise I leave the stuff in and have dozens of prints without any maintenace, even I left the resin in the tank for 2 months without printing, buildingplate down and machine well covered from light, and did not have trouble, just put the plate up and down several times to mix up the color particals well again 🙂
 
All the best, Daniel

In the meantime, the white parts are also finished. And always these brain pictures. These were the two Trafalgar guns in the first attempt ...



... but when I checked the window dimensions again ...



... crap, the panes only have two parts. Three parts were at the guns in the upper deck.

Then glued in the frame as before ...



... filler pieces glued in for better support ...



... and filled with putty:-)

This deck is also only inlaid, because I will have to to take it out again and work on the inside later to put the window panes into the frames. For this I will trim back the carriages. That's why I made the new triangular cut-outs on the frontside of the carriage.

And I also did a test print. The foremost window in the lower deck had window bars. These are very fine.



And they are to be fitted into the already fixed frames. You can see, however, that they are so fine that slight distortions occur when printing - since no supports can be used. Since the frame has too little undersize for its hole, this is of course exacerbated.



And then again AAAAARGHH! With the dimensions of this bit, I got the first rectangular version and not the frames with a lower height that were used in the end ...



... ok, can be corrected with the next print, maybe the distortion will be better too.

XXXDAn

While the printer was finally processing white resin again, some more planning and work preparation went on. The bulwarks of the open decks will have to be built. This has to be placed on top of the plastic hull shells, so construction, positioning and stability are a challenge. That's why I first filed gaps in the deck support for supports of the bulwarks.
 

 
Then the supports are glued in place and a 2 mm polysterol plate is put on top.
 

 
Clamps to press the plate to the support and wire to press the plate down to the hull.
 

 
Then in the deck, slots for the supports were cut ...
 

 
... and the interior panelling added.
 

 
But it looked too thick compared to the photos. That's why I removed the panelling and the supports and it still holds perfectly.
 

 
I sanded the cut edge again to get an even gluing surface. Since all my big files have a very distinct convexity, I took a stable piece of wood and glued it on with sandpaper 🙂
 
XXXDAn

Thank you!  🙂 🙂 🙂
 
Since I have to print with black resin paint at the moment and thus can't easily put my white parts in between, here is a bit of preparation for the next steps.  Sometime around 1860 to 1880 the Victory got a small booth on the cabin deck. This probably served as a shelter for the watch and was small in the early years ...
 

 
... but was quite quickly converted to a more comfortable size.
 

 
Therefore, here is the determination of the approximate dimensions and position based on the available photographs.
 

 
Here is the approximate relationship between the distance between the mizzen mast, the booth and the stern. It was easy to measure in some of the pictures and the values were always approximately the same. You have to compensate a little for the perspective shift, but the basic dimensions seem to be right.
 

 
On this view you can determine the width of the booth at its aft end, this point was already defined in the first step. Practically, the width of the booth is equal to its height. The two flag lockers could also be determined by the iron supports at the bulwark.
With this I have been able to draw a plan of the quarterdeck that is good enough for my purposes.
The measurements are 1:100.
 

 
And the height of the bulwark could also be roughly determined via the sailor's belly button. On the outside view I could also determine the foreward end of the bulwark by means of a port.
 
So far it fits.
 
XXXDAn

A long time ago, I had once packed the night house and the steering wheel on a small vignette to protect them, but this small deck then broke in the middle. Fortunately without further damage to the important parts. So the thought was to glue the parts back together, put two deck beams into the hull, the vignette on top and all is tidied up and safe. So I reinforced the bottom of the vignette because of the crack and placed it on the deck beams, fixed tiller rope underneath and rejoiced.





Then I noticed that the rudder was then no longer moving, especially the tiller was nice to look at so far.

So what follows: Demolition of the just built. The plan was to run the tiller rope in a loop under the night house to keep the movability. But the rope was already short trimmed ...



So I threaded the old rope back, threading an auxiliary thread through it to thread the new one in. Was tricky, but worked. Then the new rope was in quickly and the loop was laid quickly too.

But what a mess. The friction in the system was too high, rudder and tiller could not be moved. FUHUCK!



Sewing machine oil didn't help either. Why? The friction just allowed to move the rudder when pulling on one side of the rope, but with the added other side, it was now just too much for the system. So the new rope with auxiliary thread were threaded out again and the old threaded back in ...

But it still was a good decision, as the guys in the gunroom can no longer bang their heads against the tiller. Due to the thick skulls down there, the tiller sweep was already limited for a long time anyway. Ok, mobility is missing, but so there are at least no blokes that would have literally been knocked off the their stools.

But in the meantime the small piece of deck looked a bit piddly to me, so it followed what had to follow - demolition: dafi is back in the modeler's life.

Somehow I still have some sanding to do and somehow I'm afraid that I'll get a lot of dirt behind the windows ...
 
That's why I temporarily put in the decks ...
 

 
... and opened all the window ports so that the inserts fit well.
 
The front 2 ports are also being closed right now, because ...
 

 
... around 1922 they were also closed 🙂
 

 
A wonderful picture*** from 1922! You can see how the Victory was still lying on the water shortly before :-0
The bolts in the holes and especially the detail I'm looking forward to building the most: the support of the chimney pipe!
The port/window at the very front was still open for many years, but judging by the sequence of photographs it was planked over sometime between 1900 and 1920.
 
Best regards, DAniel
 
PS***: The historical picture is mirrored to match my construction pictures.
 

Come to the dark side. You want it too! Do you feel the force getting stronger?
 
The more you look at the windows, the more you notice how unevenly the sizes are distributed. At the beginning, I assumed a standard size - limited by the profile bar at the top and bottom - but the variety has become greater and greater.
 

 
Nice to see here in the midship area. The two historic Trafalgar guns have distinctly different widths. The lower deck windows are the largest and reasonably uniform, in the middle deck I have been able to reduce it to 3 sizes but with 3 types of window frames, in the upper deck there are again 3 sizes with 2 types of frames and below the hut deck another size, these are the smallest windows. I have made an excel sheet to help me get through it ...
 

 
... and had the sizes printed on the window inserts and the corresponding pane holders 🙂
 

 

 
Type height approx. 2 papillary strips*** 😉
 
XXXDAn

*** Also called dpi: dafi papillary strip index

To warm up and get into the groove, I finally gave the Brodie Stove its colors.

Since more than 2 years it stands a bit naked on the middle deck ...



... so I sprayed it a little black and put a touch of graphite on it ...





... and up to the place with it http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif










XXXDAn

Then came the window panes. PVC film and matt transparent sellotape on the back ...
 

 
... gives exactly the right opacity against inside view while ...
 

 
... the outside reflects well, to be seen on both pictures on the right side window.
 

 
And then the special windows for the four old Trafalgar guns on the middle deck.
 

 

 

 
The guns sit almost on the bottom edge of the port, an indication that the windows sat higher than the former gun ports. The interior view is also funny 🙂
 

 
Then one of the 6 signal guns for saluting.
 

 
But I still have to do some work on both of them, the half ring above the old gun and the middle window bars on the signal guns are too narrow.
 
The "chasing" windows at the stern are also in now, ...
 

 

 
... and even better with paint.
 

 
XXXDAn

Thanks Marc and JAn.
 
No it will be an 'exterior only' model.
 
So far I have too little - or better almost none -  information about the inside. If someone has sources about that, you are more than welcome.
 
The outside is very well documented, there I have basically all I need, the quarterdeck too. Still missing good sources with details about the small booth on the poop deck and the forecastle with its new "top-forecastle".
 
I most possibly will reduce the carriages still for that the 45° parts of the sides won´t be visible. But all according to the order: "with safety to the masts windows"
 
XXXDAn

And then finally I was able to start. Open the gun port ...
 

 
... check from the outside that the width of the frame fits ...
 

 
... from the inside, that the height at the top is correct ...
 

 
... and finally clear the lower edge. The frame should touch the hull only on one side, the other side and top and bottom must have a minimum of
clearance, otherwise the frame body will bend quickly.
 

 
When glueing in the frames, you could also see nicely on the inside of the hull if the long "carriages" are properly aligned.
 

 
Then the whole appearence looks even.
 

 
Then cut the outside to the right length with a bit of excess ...
 

 
... fill ...
 

 
... neaten ...
 

 
... and that's how I had imagined it 🙂
 

 
Now just find the right window pane.
 
XXXDAn

And then, once again, came catastrophies, confusion and bewilderment.
 
In some places the filling of the whales had come loose, so large-scale surgery.
 

 
But it got even more irritating when I only wanted to check if the front and back port windows were parallelogramming like the corresponding old gun ports. Only to find that the windows are not square at all ...
 
... mot de Cambronne ...
 
... and that they did not even sit on the top and bottom of the moulding as I believed before.
 
So I measured the different windows again and checked different ratios, as a model maker has to have reasonably reproducible measurements for the planks later. This attempt was too flat ...
 

 
... after another attempt, the size for the lower deck was finally better defined.

Thank you druxey!
 
Pictures from 1900 show exactly that all the whales had been removed. 
 

 
The middle middle whales of the kit can be easily filled up, only the lower ones stick out. So out the coarse file 🙂
 

 
The black sharpie line above and below the whale is for height control. The copper plates are protected with duct tape.
 

 
Then make a notch with the edge of the file to the required depth, i.e. to the black. If the notch is nice and even, then you have a nice depth control. And then the next notch next to it. And then blacken the notches and sand away the ridges between the notches and ...
 

 
... smooth as a child's bottom 😉
 
After filling in the spaces in between the whales, I did another installation test. Gluing in parts from the inside ...
 

 
... then trimm with a little excess. You need fast and sharp cutting disc, because the resin is quite brittle.
 
The excess material makes it easy to fill in and doesn't mess up the inside.
 

 
Cleaned up with the sanding tool and primed, it's already close to what I want.
 

 
And to make the whole thing easier to paint, now printed in white resin 😉
 

 
The matching frames for the window pane holders are also included and you can see the "gun carriage" well 🙂
 
XXXDAn

😂 😂 😂

Thanks Kev, how the hell did you guess?
 
With the possibility of printed parts I finally saw the chance to mass-produce the window crosses in a neat ship shape fashion. To get the vertical alignment of the window panes, I had the idea to link opposite windows over a wooden rod. Therefore I constructed a window frame with an adapter behind it, so that you can pull out the stick trough one side and cover the hole with the square window pane in front.
 

 
Inside it looks like this ...
 

 
... and outside like that 🙂
 

 
Rods pulled out, gaps of the frame filled and trimmed, it looks good for now.
 

 
Instead of the polysterol sheet I used 300 gram paper cut in single planks. That could look like this.
 

 
You can also see that the window crosses are difficult to paint. The window panes are also still intransparent black.
 
But above all, the windows are difficult to align at an horizontal angle.
 
Therefore a new system. Window frame with cross on a "carriage" that stands on the deck and thus guarantees height and angle. The window pane can then be added from behind and be secured by a small frame.
 

 
Since these windows were square, and the decorative strip had to sit exactly at the top and bottom of the window, I put a piece of round rod in to align the decorative moulding.
 

 
And it looks very cute 🙂
 

 

 
XXXDAn

A short look back:
 
More than 5 years ago I started a 1910 Victory.
 

 
The starboard side was already prepared, the test piece was already made, but then a slow full stop: it didn't work the way I wanted ...
 

 
I wanted to glue the whole hull with 0.3 mm sheet plastic and engrave the plank edges.


 
But the thin sheet becomes so wavy because of the glue that it had to be taken off again. I also wanted to make the decorative strip out of brass, but that
didn't work either ...
 
When I was building the cutaway sections, I also noticed that it is elementary for the whole appearance that the windows are properly aligned and the crosses are neatly mounted, both of which could only be done with extreme effort at that time.
 

 
Aim was for that the rest should look as neat as this.
 
So go back to start ...
 
In good german tradition: Take a hammer, chisel and a rough file and start over again!

XXXDAn