zoly99sask

Hi,
 
Today I finally had a few moments to try the frames. I've been doing some research on the frame joints... and I found an answer in Peter Goodwin's book. All joints were made with chocks except the joint between the 3rd and 4th futtocks and the respective top timbers that was made with a plain scarph.
 
Here's how mine are coming along (sorry about the quality of the picture it was taken with the kids sleeping and with the iPad)

 
There is only one thing I could not find: a formula for the dimensions of the chocks. I found the dimensions for some chocks for the Victory and extrapolated a formula. Chock width: 3 times the thickness of the frame and chock height: 3/4 of the frame height. Is this a good approximation? Does anyone found and actual formula?
 
One other question: are the frame joints (and the connection of the double frames) supposed to be caulked?
 
Hope that tomorrow I will be able to finnish preparing frame 0

So I have found these pictures of the various cabin layouts on SR. I am hoping that someone may know where a clearer scan of these plans may be at as the writing is blurred to where I cannot read what it is saying. I am going to post this in a couple of places and hopefully someone will be able to help. This isn't something that is critical to construction but is more for knowledge. Thanks!

Another advantage of working two builds at once is that I can more easily slow down and make sure I am doing things the way I want to. Just building the one ship, I kept wanting to keep on building and would settle or rush through something. Made a few mistakes that are still bugging me today on past builds doing that. Now, when I am at a slow spot do to research or waiting on supplies I still have another ship to work on that takes care of that itch to keep building. As crazy as it seems, I am more relaxed building these two huge ships than I was working on just one or even a small one.
 
Yes, there will probably end up being extensive bashing done on this build. I was already kind of thinking there would be but as I have already pulled apart work that I have done to completely redesign it and I am only on the framework, I think I will do this a lot. Truthfully, I am happy with doing it though. I would like to build a fully framed ship one day and so this allows me to start thinking of how to do that without having to do the entire ship. Scratch building something with no instructions can be frustrating but it also provides a great opportunity to learn a lot.
 
Thanks for all the support!

Hello all just a small update, Thanks to all for stopping in, for your likes and great comments.
 I finally got the courage up to cut all the holes in the deck and I must say all went good, and I also finished up my ships wheel.
 Not much to be said the pictures say it all. the cuts were made with a 1 mm end mill bit then finished with a file.
 The very first picture shows the outline for the aft hatch which I spent considerable time measuring, marking and double checking..............even though it was perfectly square and centred I had to erase all of it as this is the bow     . Things got better after this, glad I didn't start to cut. The deck has one coat of poly now on it and will get two or three more
Enjoy
 









 
 
 All deck furniture and masts are just sitting in their places, nothing is permanently fixed yet.
 
Have a Good Evening 

beginning underwater casing

Peter,
 
What's that song with --"Open your eyes"??
 
I've had that photo in my files and never "saw" the fid staring at me right in the middle of the photo. Looked at the photo for help with the platforms and totally ignored the masts - Gee whizz--But thanks so much for your guidance. much appreciated indeed. Now I will also add a fid to the main (:-)
 
Cheers,

 
Making some progress
 

 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Took some time, and now getting back to the yard. Here is a minor update (as mine seem to always be) so still working on the mizenmast putting the bits together;
 
••Fiddle blocks for mainstays (amazing how long these small bits actually take to put together) – nothing new here you have all certainly thought the same thing working on your builds—
 
••Lower cap along with its release clasp metal bits- done
 
••Completed the lower platform
 
••Finished the lower mast as well
 
So now - onto installing everything Hmmm….
 
PS: those two locking pins will be cut to proper size (:-)
 
Cheers
 

 
 
 
 
 

Today has been a busy day working on SR though you can't really tell. I did get the filler blocks installed at the bow but mostly I have been test fitting the stern cabin windows and trying to figure out the framing back there. There is not a lot of detail concerning the sub framing and so I am going to have to make a bunch up to achieve what all I want to put in back there. I am also identifying what parts of the lower false decks will be seen through hatches, grating etc. so I can make sure they are planked. This is where a fully framed ship has an advantage as the framing used is what should be there and you don't have to worry about modifying bulkheads to get the look you want. Of course there is the challenge of actually framing a ship so....... 
 
Anyway, here are some pictures. As I said, not much to really look at different but there is progress! By the way, the frame for the cabin windows is not glued in yet. The supports are but the frame won't be for some time yet.

Hello friend E.J. I like very much "La Couronne" your work is very clean and tidy, you are doing very well, and I built it about 30 years ago, the plans were the Italian Vincenzo Lusci. Un abrazo Liberto.

                                                      "MERRY CHRISTMAS"

So on to another update. I have been building the main mast and top this week. Wood construction is now done and I am ready to start adding the blocks, dead eyes and other bits of the rigging before stepping the mast in permanently. I also cut the mizzen mast to length and set it in place without glue just to see how she would look with all three of her masts in place.

Had a nice full day in the new shipyard today. It was great to be back. After working on the framing for Soleil Royal I resumed rigging La Couronne. Not a lot done but I did get the foremast fore stay rigged. The mouse was a tricky piece of rigging. I made it by parting the strands of the rope and inserting a small bead and then wrapping the bead and rope with a small diameter thread. I think it turned out good and seems to be working like it is supposed to.
 
Main mast work will be starting tomorrow so a lot of what I have just done on the foremast will get to be repeated though hopefully it will be a little easier and faster as I have a better idea of how I'm going to do it. 
 
Here are a few pictures of today's progress. Should be getting more regular updates again.

As promised, a picture! Worked until my eyes could not take anymore but I finished ratting one side of the main mast. I'll spin her around to start the other tomorrow night. Now to bed!

Main mast is built and stepped in place. Built the two pin rails for the main mast rigging and started running shrouds. This set is going a bit better and slightly faster than the foremast set. Now instead of a full hour for a pair of shrouds it's maybe 50 minutes! I guess that means I have learned something...
 
My plan is to finish up with the shrouds and the main fore stay and then I will switch builds back to SR for a little while. I like having two ships going at the same time. It allows me to set smaller checkpoints to reach and then switch to the other build instead of having to finish the entire ship before switching. It is definitely keeping me seated in the ship yard longer although, when you consider that La Couronne just hit 670 hours in a little over 10 months, I think I have been plenty busy...
 
Ok, enough talking enjoy the pictures!

Hi Steven,
 
Sure...I used 0,15 mm thick brass sheet (Albion Alloys).
To shape the bowl I drilled a 1 cm hole in a scrap piece of 2mm thick plywood.
Lay an oversized piece of brass sheet on it and pressed the bowl with a round tipped hammer.
I didn't hammer...just pushed and turned it around until I had a nice bowl in the sheet.
Pushed the edge next to the bowl flat...think I used therear end of an Xacto handle for that...not sure.
Cut out the shield with scissors and filed the edge until I was happy with the result.
A trident decal, painted the edge black, gloss varnish.
 
Since the brass sheet is very thin, it's easy to shape.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Or...your build is 1:50 scale, that's very close to 28mm wargaming scale.
Take a look at this...
 
http://www.victrixlimited.com/collections/greek-ancients/products/greek-unarmoured-hoplites-and-archers
 
Robin

A bit quiet on the bireme front at the moment. 
December is a busy month for me. Not much shipyard time...and when I have time, I'm often too tired to do anything.
For a while I thought I was able to finish this build before the end of the year, but I'm afraid it will take me about 2 more months.
 
I more or less finished the yard, sail and most lines involved (6 more will go on...4 of them after I fixed it to the mast).
 
With the sail loosely pulled up. It works!
 
I'll tighten the sail to the yard a bit more and fix the tight bundle with sail coloured sewing thread. That won't be visible.
Even when tightened to the max, the sail bundle will be somewhat too bulky, but not too bad I think.
 
More... semi-soon I hope!
 
Robin
 
 
 

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

At this point I and read Dirk's (Dubz) problems on alignment.
I must say I was very please I did. So a big thanks to Dirk.
I replicated some of his checks, not as well as he did mind you.
Here you see where I had already marked the sweep ports vs. where the tracing put them.

The same tracing confirms things because the gun ports are pretty well aligned.

In some places I had to add extra pieces to the port backing blocks to cover the ports.
I have also done the fairing to the upper works now.

Then revisit the tracing paper and confirm the sweep port positions.
I wont use the rough tracing paper to actually place them.

Finally I used the template supplied in the kit (traced) to mark the proper positions of the ports through cutouts in the template.

Now, that's better.

 
I still have some catching up to post so will continue later.
Thanks for dropping by
 
Nick

To continue.
I made up some jigging to help me keep the bulkheads square, both in the vertical and to the former.
Just a base with a triangular section glued on.
Then the vertical trued up square on a face sander.
 

 
This is how they work.
One placed each side of the bulkhead and clamped to my base.
The bulkhead is then adjusted and checked with a square.
The jig moved to hold it there and a clamp added.
 

 
So here goes the first bulkhead.
 

 
Continuing to add bulkheads, up to number four.
I have to wait for the glue to dry each time because I only have one pair of jigs.
 

 
slowly getting there.
 

 
Last few to go on the Stern.
 

 
All bulkheads now done.
here I have added the re-enforcing parts onto the former between each bulkhead after sanding to size.
 

 
I thought that the bulkheads still had a bit of fore/aft movement in them.
So to stop them moving when I fair the hull I have used some cut up pieces of scrap to re-enforce between the bulkheads further out from the former.
Here are the first few.
 

 
And with a full set in place.
They also help confirm the squareness of bulkheads.
 
Will continue on next post
 
Nick
 
 
 
 
 

Adding on the Bow pre-cut pieces.
 

 
And at the Stern.
 
I am going to put filler pieces at the Bow and Stern to help maintain the shape of the planking and to provide greater gluing area.
So that's my next job.
 

 
First I cut some 1/2 thick balsa into rough shapes.
This set is for the gap between first and second bulkheads.
 

 
Then I offered them up and marked bulkhead profile on the edges.
Then removed them and roughed a line across the upper and lower face to correspond to the edge marks.
Then carve an approximate shape following the lines.
 

 
I am doing them for the first three bulkhead gaps.
 

 
Here the Bow fillers are now glued in place.
 

 
And as the manual advises I have added temporary bracing pieces across the tops of the more exposed bulkheads.
 
Next I will making lots of sawdust by fairing the frame.
 
Nick
 
 

to repair the misaligned bow bulkhead........it didn't go as planned.   I used alcohol to loosen up the glue,  and rather than try to loosen up the center spine.....I just ran the mini hand saw through it.   working with my x-actor and a single edge blade,  a little head way was made.........and then......
 

 
well.......doesn't this just bite the big one!   it was obvious that I put the stamp of disapproval on this attempt.  it's a bit TOOOOO shattered for me to even try to repair it.  I'll make one instead.   this is the reason why I try to keep the parts panels intact.   I have quite a few parts panels in my storage box........all I want is the hull parts.  here are some I have in the box:
 
Billings Regina.......fairly complete....been dying to make another hull - POF
Billings Half Moon......fairly complete......what I don't have,  I drew templates
Billings AmericA ......recent production and complete
Billings Boulogne Etaples..........on it's last leg.....perhaps one more hull
Billings Mary Ann...........on it's last leg....patched together with metal rod
Midwest lobster boat..........fairly good shape 
Billings Gothenborg........I think it's complete...what I don't have I drew templates 
 
I might have one or two others in there.   I use them to make repair parts,  or create hulls,  outfitting them the way I want to.  I buy the plywood,  trace out the parts,  and cut them out with my scroll saw.   now normal plywood is a little tougher to sand and shape........the plywood that model manufacturers use is softer and less dense....easier to shape.   I decided to look at the older parts panels for areas of wood large enough to make the bulkhead.   the Mary Ann panels had a couple of areas I could use,  so I scuttled it.....I've been wanting to buy another Cux 87 anyway.  
 

 
once I had the part traced out,  I went out to the garage and cut them out.
 

 
next was to remove the broken bulkhead........it was nice to know that the part was fully inserted in the keel.
 

 
you can also see that I had cut the center spine part where it fits into the broken bulkhead.  I can either cement a patch in there later,  or simply fill it in completely.  the only reason why it's there,  was to fit that part.  it's all cleaned out now.
 

 
I found that the Mary Ann panels are about 1/8th of an inch........which leads me back to the question of why such a thick panel was used for this kit.  the Billing's America kit is a relatively small kit........I don't recall a thick plywood being used for it.   the thickness difference isn't going to matter too much,  as the deck will be planked over anyway { there is a slight gap......1/8th as opposed to 3/16ths}   the deck platforms were put back in place to align the bulkhead.  the knighthead was also cemented in place.
 

 

 
I also had a chance to unbundle the wood.   I have quite a few of the plastic sleeves that I've gotten,  from wood ordered from Billings.  
 

 
I have planked many hulls with 1.5 mm thick {various widths}......but I have never planked using 0.5mm.   I haven't measured it,  but I think it's 0.5 x 2 mm.  there is no parts list included with the instructions
 

 
still doesn't deter me though........anything is subject to change.   following through with the plans that I will keep at bay,  in the back of my mind,  will be hard........although I did manage to hold off on the A.G. for a long time.   creating additional hulls from this kit,  is very tempting.........now made even harder,  since I now have a constant reminder.
 
 
 

welcome to all the new faces....and to the usual faces as well.   if it would only take a minute to get the pictures out of the camera,  I'd show how I fixed my little boo boo    
 
welcome Zoltan......I got some milk crates around here somewhere.   you'll have to put a cushion on them though......or you get the criss cross marks on your bum        glad to have you look'in in!
 
too much Sjors!  glad to see you here  
 
good to see you Nenad.........you'll find that these two vessels have quite a bit in common....at least Revell thought so  
 
I know Carl........between the admiral and my inability to keep my fingers out of shiny boxes......I'm doomed.  if there is any consolation at all,  it show that I'm totally committed towards being a life long member       they'll have to pry my x-actor out of my cold dead hand........"if ya gotta go,  go with a smile!"
 
glad your here John.......you know,  I'm not sure about that.   there are some things that I'm going to do a bit differently,  but I will remember to keep them at the top,  perched slightly outward.   I'm a little disappointed anyway.......they don't show the studding sails.   I'm going to need to add extra belay pins anyway.   oh....wait!  your talk'in braces....not studding booms!       tuteur me!  I'll have to look at that...........

Well finally my replacement wood arrived.
I am going for Maple from a German outfit.
I am very happy with the quality and sizes, all as hoped for.
Their prices were especially good about half of other Europe suppliers and nearer a third of US suppliers when the Import duties are included.
Here are some pics.
 
 
So now I can get on with the main show
 
Nick

The other mini project I am running in parallel whilst I wait for timber is the first of the ships boats.
 

 
First off get the Bulkhead former and thin the edges to form a Rabbet and for the bearding.
 

 
Then add on the keel and stem. The joint does not match properly but I will get back to that.
 

 
Then real carefully glue in the Bulkheads a pair at a time making sure they are square and even in two planes.
 

 
Then I glued a couple of scrap plank strips along the top.
They do a really good job of keeping the bulkheads square and the structure rigid.
the bulkheads can easily flex as you try to fair the edges down.
They have also proved to be helpful when placing clamps.
They are glued to the inner parts of the bulkheads which get removed later so they don't present any problems
Once the strips were done I faired the hull down.
 

 
Then added the Transom, the scrap bits also helped keep it in place whilst the glue dried.
 
Nick
 
PS - I could kick myself. Just reviewing my photos and realised that I could have easily re-cut the keel to get that badly lasered joint correct, dooh.

I decided not to go with the Basswood for hull planking.
So I have ordered some Maple to do the planking.
My wood order included some to allow me to reproduce the Stem parts so that I get a good match with the planking, which means I will have to wait a bit before the Hull can move forwards.
 
In the mean time I thought I would start a couple of the smaller project while I wait.
 
The first one will be the Guns, well carriages at least.
 
The instructions say to paint the separate parts before assembling.
But I decided to put the main parts together first and then i will air brush them.
 

 
First step was to build a little jig on a piece of scrap to get the two axles and the sides aligned correctly for gluing.
 

 
Then start the production line. 1. glue the first parts. 2. shape and glue the Transom across the front axle. 3 shape and glue the Bolster across the rear axle. That little production line is now in full swing, a couple of gun carriages come off each session.
 
I also wanted to clean up the carriage trucks (wheels), there are attachment pips and laser char to get rid of.
Doing each one by hand would be a real pain, plus I would have ended up with a bunch of oval trucks.
So got to thinking of an approach.
 

 
First I loaded a couple of dozen trucks onto a long needle and used a clamp to keep them in place. You can see the char and pips.
 

 
Then by holding the clamp and rolling them along the edge of the table I can apply a sanding stick and work it back and forth as I roll. This is how they come out, still perfectly round, consistent diameter and cleaned up. Might do them a bit more yet.
If you decide to try this then switch them around part way through because the middle ones get cleaner more quickly.

Next the rabbet strip. I wanted to try an idea I had a while back for plank bending so tried it here.

I had bought a flexible curve, the sort often used for draughting (a lot in my past).

It was a cheap one but holds the bend very well and can go to a pretty tight radius.

I set up the flexi curve, soaked the bow part of the strip for an hour or so and gently bend it round the curve. I overlaid some scrap, very thin strip to avoid clamp marks then applied clamps all along.
Gotta say I’m pretty pleased. The curve held the radius completely and once dry the strip was just right.


Glued and clamped the strip to the bottom of the former. My keel clamp comes in handy already as a work holder.

Once set I transferred to bearding line on the former to the other side and tapered down to the rabbet strip both sides with chisel and sandpaper.

Here we are all done.