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Everything posted by Gaetan Bordeleau
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Hi Greg, Believe it or not it is an easy curve to go with the milling machine because it is an easy movement to decompose. It is much more difficult when it is a perfect circle because you have to go X and Y axes at the same time. When it is a softer arc, you can go 1 axe at the time; you move forward and you move close to the edge, and on you go.
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The keel is now in 4 or 5 parts and extensive milling has been worked almost completely. Both extremities are taper but only at the height of the frames to allow the external planking to fit flush with the keel. The keel beams are not tapered they remain full. I am beginning to fit the ''lock beam'' above the frames. When this part will be completed, beams will be assembled. The fitting of the beams on the keel is done at this stage because it is easier to manipulate just a part of the frame instead of the entire frame.
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Mike, I was thinking something in that direction, minimizing the planking, optimizing the framing. Druxey, spacing goes by groups of 3 with a reset at each group made possible. If both frames would add together with an equal spacer between each space it would be like a sandwich at the end with plus or minus the good length. The beauty of this assembly is that each spacer is part of the keel. For each group of 2 frames, it is possible to adjust the thickness of the spacer if necessary thus eliminating the effect of the cumulative addition. Also, extra care must be used for precise marking not with a ruler but I used a sheet of paper with 5 group of appropriate markings and after I divided each group (1 space, 2 frames).
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What would be the precision for this machine: 0,01 inch with wobbling?
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- dremel
- rotary tool
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''As a carpenter I would just like to point out how dangerous it is to try and cut very fine rips between the fence and blade." This is true on a 10 inch blade, this is not true on a small one. I did miles of thin plank with success. In french we say all the roads lead to Rome. There is often more than 1 way to do a job.
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L. H. Under the table, there is a large groove left side of the groove is the guide for 1 end and right side of the groove guide for the right end of the groove if I want to do the left limit the square guide rest on the left side of the groove if I want to do the right side the square rest on the right side of the groove I begin with the 2 limits then the middle is done freely
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Here is my latest jig. Until I saw it in my head’ I could not do it but I saw it so I did it. The problem : I have to do grooves at regular intervals. It is done in the idea as the gratings are done but with an additional difficulty the width is larger than the tool. 1- the guide fix the left and right limit of the groove 2- the guide for the spacing of the grooves 3- the table slides on the guide rail 1
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Rob, when I do miniature carving, I do not watch tv, because I really need to focus on the movement of the tool. Since I was very young, when I wanted to study, I turned tv on... like this, I controlled the sound I heard, and this way I did not hear other sound by other people. It is not all tasks which needs 100% of focus. I guess it is like the new thermostat for heating, it does not always heat at 100% to keep the temperature stable.
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Bluenose 2, I can rip 1 mm pieces between the blade and the fence and I use a pushstick.
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Which method ives the best results; between the blade and the fence or to the left of the blade? Are there similarities with the feather board?
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Do you think that you will be able to do a better job with this measuring tool?
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For about the tenth time since I built the table top I redone it, most of the time for different try for the color. Last week, I cut about 6 inches in the depth and today I straitghtened the top because there was some curves in it. I used a long ruler, a plane, a scraper, a sanding belt, an orbital sander. The result is good but up to today I was stuck with the idea that only a large belt sanding panel machine could do the job. Some time it is strange how we can limit ourself.
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Mike, you are right about the glass, this one is an ordinary glass and can act sometimes like a mirror and this we do not want. Anti reflection glass would be much better. There are 2 levels of protections; the first one, more visual than protecting from the dust, a movie screen and the second one a light fabric. For this case a glass would be expensive and mostly too heavy to manipulate.
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COMPONENTS OF A FULLY OPERATIONAL ROPE MACHINE WHICH CONTROLS EVERY ASPECT I have seen many versions of rope machine on this forum. There are many ways to fabricate a machine but I think that there are some basics principles which need to be respected to obtain a rope with all the necessary qualities like tension, number of turns, stiffness of the rope. To turn a rope is just a matter to have some components and understand why they are used. 1 of the most common missing item is the swivel bearing. It controls the number of turns entering in the fabrication of the rope, it regularizes the number of turns entering by eliminating the surplus of turns by a balancing action. 3 photos: swivel bearing, explanation of the parts of the machine, extract from .xls file to predict rope diameter.
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Hi Pat, often when a large number of items are required, if by example 10 item requires 5 operations you can proceed 2 ways: you make 1 item at the time with the 5 different operations you make 1 operation 10 times in both situation, you will do 50 operations Ii this case, because more than 1 type of sander is needed (oscillating and belt sander) time is saved in concentrating operations on 1 machine instead of changing constantly of machine 1 part of the efficiency comes from saving of walking steps from 1 machine to the other also concentrating on 1 operation at the time, it is easier to succeed and master 1 operation at the time instead of constantly changing better results can be achieved in trying to master 1 operation at the time rather than to trying to master all the operations at the same time
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