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Bob Blarney

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  1. Efficient dust collection is important, and it may obviate the need for an expensive TEFC motor. I agree about the 1/3HP, but light cuts shouldn't overheat a motor. Hmm, I wonder if anybody has thought about roughing the wood down with a handplane first - it might save a huge amount of time and airborne dust.
  2. A word of caution about these designs: It's best to stand to the side when feeding stock, because if your fingers slip (fine dust acts as a lubricant) then the stock can be ejected at high velocity. A 6" x 36" guitar side-rib blank once slipped through my fingers and flew across the room and shattered when it hit the wall. That was an expensive bit of lumber that was ruined, and then there was the issue of the orphaned bookmatched other side-rib. This is one reason that I would make a gravity-driven sled that carries the stock through.
  3. The dimensions of the sander can be changed for width & height. A 1:8 taper will give a good compromise between length & adjustment range. E.g. 1.0mm horizontal displacement will give a 0.125mm thickness adjustment. It's not too difficult to make a direct reading scale (and a vernier) if the taper is not 'perfect' - that could be discussed later. For a threaded rod adjuster, you could savage a handscrew clamp for one of its screws and its pivot barrel nuts. Btw, here's a thickness sander that I made years ago. I think the PM version is better. (I think the link still works): http://www.mimf.com/old-lib/hammond_sander_lathe.htm
  4. Another technique for fine control on small handheld objects, is to keep the pinky/rings fingertips touching each other. For instance, try this for threading a needle.
  5. The cellphone must mounted on a stand or arm of some sort. One of the old Luxo extension arm lamps would be perfect for adaptation, or the old semi-rigid gooseneck lamps. Alternatively. a machinist's dial indicator positioner could work too, but it would be a bit short. I have a background in research surgery, where occasionally one must work through an operating microscope that has a similar magnification range. It takes a bit of training, but it's doable. It helps if the forearms are supported, as some people eat at a table with the forearms resting on the edge of the table, near the elbows. Sometimes, the dominant hand is laid upon the wrist of the non-dominant handarm which is used as artist's maul stick.
  6. That's a classic design for a shopbuilt sander. The key points are to set the plane of the platten exactly parallel to the axis of the lathe, so as to ensure uniform thickness (or displace it to make beveled planks). The second point is to feed the stock at a rate that cuts steadily without boggind down the motor - this is determined by experience with the grit and the wood species. I think an interesting idea would be to make a 'gravity-drive' sled to carry the stock. I would attach weights to pull the sled through at a constant speed so that the results are more uniform. From the 'Days of Old' (PM, June 1958) here's a scalable design that I really like. The construction is very robust and the fineness of adjustment is excellent and easy. It needs a dust shroud, however. Again, I would add a gravity-drive sled. https://books.google.com/books?id=KN8DAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&pg=PA191#v=onepage&q&f=true
  7. I have an optivisor and while it does work ok, it gets tiresome to wear at times. I think I've found an alternative for some tasks. Recently my auto remote stopped working and I found that a tiny 4-contact switch had broken off the PC board. So I soldered it back on (what fun). I took a couple of pics to illustrate the problem, and then I realized that my cellphone would be very good for close work and more comfortable than the optivisor. I'm re-engineering a desk lamp to hold the cellphone for this purpose. Here are the pics that I took while soldering on the switch that show the fine detail. (After re-soldering the switch, I globbed on some DAP RapidFuse superglue to ensure that it will stay in place.)
  8. O Wise Man - enlighten us as to how you spray in your present workshop. As a former research scientist in surgery, I've seen the sad results of ignorance (poor training), carelessness (failure to follow training) and equipment failures (which sometimes do happen). I'm aware of how fume hoods are used in laboratories and some aspects of their construction. I'm looking for a practical small booth that would work on the scale that most hobbyists would use, say a cubic space of 24" x 24" x 24". In this setting, I would expect that the most hobbyist would use 'rattle spraycans' which emit far less paint with far less overspray than an automotive or furniture factory installation. I think the most significant hazard would be inhalation of organic solvents in a hobbyist setting, although stupidity is always possible. As for lathework, here's my current setup - a sand-bedded lathe with excellent lighting (and a great stereo!), high airflow dust collection with accessory shrouds for sanding and finishing. (The dust collection cyclone and filters work down to about 2 microns.) When roughing out logs, I use a logger's helmet with full faceshield, earmuffs, and a leather apron (and a dust mask if necessary). This gear is not usually necessary for most model builders.
  9. Point taken, thanks Hmm,, manometer gauge might be useful for development to calculate airflow.
  10. Hello, the illustration is old-timey, but the concept is still valid. The air jet powered by vac creates a strong draft while also minimizing and exposure to fumes. Additionally it reduces fire/explosion hazards that are probably not a relevant issue in hobby installations. It may likely be possible to miniaturize for benchtop use. https://books.google.com/books?id=P-IDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA599&rview=1&pg=PA785#v=onepage&q&f=false
  11. This might be worth trying out. It's not a failure so long as you can eat the leftovers. http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/10/making-sokui-rice-paste-glue/
  12. A Wixey digital protractor (for setting the miter gauge) would be a modestly priced ($12USD) and useful addition to your shop. Resolution to 0.3 degrees
  13. As stated above, a close mechanical fit is essential for the best bond with any glue. One of my favorite glues is old-school hot hide glue. It is quite strong yet reversible, is usually a good color match, and does not not interfere with any kind of finish. The key is mix it properly and apply at the correct temperature, about 145F.
  14. I think that this is not possible on a bandsaw that a hobbyist could afford, and likely not possible on a bandsaw at all. It would be necessary to rough cut, and work it down further from there. For final thicknessing, I think a handplane fixture might be better than a sanding fixture. Hmm, standard furniture veneer is now about 0.020". It is typically sliced off with a extremely sharp blade on a big factory fixture that slides from side to side for sequential flitches, or rotates like a lathe for plywood type faces.
  15. Bruce, here's how a pro cuts thin veneer slices safely.

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