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Bob Blarney

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  1. I think that this is not possible on a bandsaw that a hobbyist could afford, and likely not possible on a bandsaw at all. It would be necessary to rough cut, and work it down further from there. For final thicknessing, I think a handplane fixture might be better than a sanding fixture. Hmm, standard furniture veneer is now about 0.020". It is typically sliced off with a extremely sharp blade on a big factory fixture that slides from side to side for sequential flitches, or rotates like a lathe for plywood type faces.
  2. Bruce, here's how a pro cuts thin veneer slices safely.
  3. So noted. True, the techniques for working with a full-size saw may not be necessary with a modelmaker's saw, but it's information that might be very useful to someone someday. I suppose a writeup about crosscutting with a miter gauge and stop block (not the fence!) might be a good idea too. But I think a sled is a superior method. The one above can handle pieces of 20" x 20" with ease and safety.
  4. Here's a point fence that is probably appropriate for boards less than 3/4". Just make sure that it's clamped properly. Incidentally, in the pic of the sled, the carpenter's triangle square is used as stop and support. The angles are set by a digital protractor or by trigonometric calculation and measurement if needed. And by the way, a new plastic triangle would make a good auxiliary fence for a Byrnes saw.
  5. Yes, this can work on a bandsaw as well if the blade is in good condition and the saw is set up properly. I have ripped grandillo (a very hard wood) into 0.10" slices at 10" depth for guitar backs with a very good blade, but it took some tinkering. But a common difficulty that occurs with bandsaws happens when the blade is dulled on one side. This is usually manifested as a tendency to wander to one side while cutting, and is typically corrected by freehand cutting while skewing the board. If a better blade is not available, then one would use a 'point' fence. This is a piece of wood that is single or double beveled and placed so that the point is at the desired distance from the tips of the teeth. This allows the operator to guide the board at a skewed angle while using the point of the bevel to maintain the desired distance distance from the blade. Another key point about using a bandsaw is to set the tension correctly for the blade (and relieve it when you're done for the day). If it's too loose the blade will wander, and if it's too tight then it may strain the saw's frame and bearings. I have also considered how to further process the board after ripping. Most persons sand the pieces to thickness, and that's ok. If you have a drill press, look for a 'Robo-sander' accessory. However, I would use a hand plane with a fixture. It would be faster and give a better surface finish while generating no airborne dust. I suppose that I could mock a fixture up for you, if you have a plane a block plane or a No. 3 to No.5 plane.
  6. Bearing in mind that my experience is with full-size tools rather than a modelmaker's saw, I think I may have a few comments that might be useful. Jaager's comments about the number of teeth engaged in the stock is mostly correct, with some exceptions for a particular wood species. Generally 2-4 teeth must be engaged in cutting, with an adequate set and gullet depth, and the correct feed speed to eject saw dust. While the wood used in modelmaking is typically quite clear and straight-grained, there may still be internal stresses in the wood that are relieved during ripping, and this may cause the wood to curl and close the kerf behind the blade. For saws with full-length fences (esp common in the USA), skewing the fence in some manner to relieve binding is considered a poor practice, and generally a splitter should always be used. There are also saws which have half-length fences that relieve binding towards the fence (as KeithAug's ruler functions (see #9) , but they do not prevent the kerf from closing behind the blade and so again a splitter should be used. However, at the dimensions typically used in modelmaking, a dangerous kickback is unlikely and the worst that usually happens is a ruined piece of wood. All that said, when ripping thin slices with full-sized saws, e.g. cutting 1/8" wide strips from a 4" wide board, the fence should never be fixed at 1/8" from the blade and then the thin slices ripped from the wide stock board. If done that way, then the thin slice may become trapped, grabbed by the blade and flung back as a spear at the operator. A much safer practice is to place a stop block on the other side of the blade, at 1/8" from the blade. Then the stock is placed against the fence, and the fence is adjusted so as to abut the stock against the stop block. Then a slice is ripped away, and then the fence is readjusted for each successive cut, again abutting the wide stock against the stop block. Finally, sacrificial push sticks and blocks are always a good idea. And for many sawing operations at modelmakers' scale, a blunt pencil with a soft eraser makes a good push stick. 1, the overall setup - note the Wixey DRO, which I find is a great convenience 2. stop block set at ~1/8" 3. my adjustable sled for precision cuts at many angles, up to 20" length.
  7. they look excellent for use on the nooks & crannies of guitars.
  8. In the link, you'll see that the drill bit and the tap are one single piece, not two pieces, i.e. a separate drill bit and a separate tap. One drills the hole, stops the drill press or lathe, and then advances the bit by hand and continues the tapping when the bit enters the material.
  9. I'm not familiar with micro-sized taps & dies, but it would be a good thing if a manufacturer produced combined drill & tap bits such as these that I find very convenient. https://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14558/ Since these do not appear to be available, perhaps a fixture that ensures accurate tapping and threading in these tiny sizes would be useful, although this should be doable on a small lathe such as a Sherline.
  10. Here's a video that might be useful for those who wish to make custom spring clamps.
  11. About Vices? What you need to know: Vises grip firmly for you. Vices grip you firmly. Just sayin'
  12. That's an effective solution. If you needed even finer control, perhaps a mechanism with differential threading would offer finer adjustment. An alternative to a fine screw mechanism would be to use parallel (aka folding) wedges with a long taper as an auxiliaryary fence. A taper of 1:10 would allow that 1.0 mm displacement in the fore-aft direction produces a 0.1 mm displacement in the larboard to starboard direction. Although it may be very difficult to cut them to a perfect taper, one can use a digital caliper or indicator to set the adjustment. You can see an example if you do a Google search for "Bridge City Tools S-26 Sliding Parallel" . This item is no longer available and does not appear on their list of 'Legacy Tools'.
  13. If the parts fit together well, then I'd guess that little clamping pressure is needed - maybe not much more than clothespins. I'd go with the K&S brass (easy to find too) - homecenter aluminum is too soft, and while steel is more than plenty strong it is more difficult to work. A lubricant such as Tap Magic will make drilling and tapping of metal significantly easier, or 3in1 or other light oil will help too. Also, hardwood such as maple can be drilled and tapped too, and the threads can be strengthened with CA glue. Guitarbuilders also make spring "C" clamps with PVC pipe of different diameters - just cut off a width and saw a slot to make it. Here's a clever idea: https://sharing-know-how.blogspot.com/2015/04/clothes-pins-into-modelers-clamps.html
  14. I don't think you need tool steel for the bar stock. Mild steel is pretty cheap and available at any hardware store o bigbox - 1/8" or 3/16" should do fine. You'll have a chance to hone your grinding, filing, and thread tapping skills. I'd use socket head screws. A drill press with a vise will make things simpler. If you want to see the entire process of making fine tools as was done before modern machinery see below. Be warned that you'll be fascinated with the videos and might spend an entire evening watching all of them: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA

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