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Bob Blarney

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About Bob Blarney

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  1. those are cogged pulleys & belts. In the US, go to McMaster-Carr ( mcmaster.com) - they have everything imaginable in mechanical items and materials. For belts of any kind or size, go to Beltsforanything.com They will make a belt to your specifications if a stock belt won't work.
  2. Exactly so, as mine works also. It is possible to increase the resolution of adjustments by lengthening the taper of the wedges, but limitations arise about the overall working length of the contraption. I settled on a 1:4 ratio as an acceptable compromise between resolution and overall size. As is, it's quite possible to make adjustments down to 1/256th of inch.
  3. Use a thinner blade, cut the groove, determine the error, and then paste paper or precision metal shims to the fence and cut again as necessary. So far as the desired measurement system goes (inches, mm, or furlongs), I would use digital calipers to make adjustments and forget about making a scale for the fence.
  4. Jaager, Generally I'm a fan of Wixey digital measuring devices, but that particular device isn't one of my favorites. It was just at hand when I made the video. There are miter slot mounts for digital calipers that are easier to use. At this writing, I'm busy with a domestic job for Management, making new kitchen drawers and cabinets for her. The fence allows me to make quick and repetitive sawing adjustments by just laying down masking tape and then making index marks for dadoing the lock joints for the drawers. It's also excellent for fitting tenons - bumping a fence back & forth by a few thousandths is tedious.
  5. That looks like a fine well-made tool. What is the range of adjustment? I had something similar in mind. Is this a Byrnes product, and what's the cost?
  6. The fence that is shown in the video is built to be very sturdy because as workpieces get bigger, so do the loads on the equipment. That is not the case for modeling. So I'm trying to create a miniature version for you (and me) with a much simpler design for the lock mechanism, such that a modeler could make one with tools and material they may have on hand --- a layout ruler (the small Incra-rule), a table saw, a Dremel, and a drill. Of course, a sturdy workbench with workholding features (a vise, clamps, dogholes, etc.) is a given. If you have suggestions with respect to capacity, overall length, or resolution, please post them below.
  7. Hello, here's a link to an easy-to-set high precision fence that I made for my cabinet saw. I think the concept may be adapted to smaller saws, and done with a less complicated locking scheme. It employs parallel (identical) wedge with a 1:4 pitch. Thus, a 1/32nd inch displacement fore/aft results in a port-starboard displacement of 1/128th of and inch. The wedges were made from clear pine, with blue aluminum t-track screwed to the edges. For ease of adjustment, It could be fitted with a linear scale graduated in inches, mm, or fractional inches, or a digital instrument could be used as well. Note: the camera view is from the side of the saw, with the front of the table to the right in the view. https://youtu.be/vXyb3p7TNcY
  8. This video might be useful. And you might have a look at his video about making small knives.
  9. A consistent method would be to make a 'micro' jointer with a block plane and an adjustable fence. For those who do not sharpen their own blades, a razor-blade plane might be an option. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/search?query=miniature+planes https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/56750-razor-blade-block-plane Here's a review of different razor planes. https://jeffpeachey.com/2011/08/17/razor-blade-planes-an-overview/
  10. Perhaps the membership could start a separate discussion about safe cutting techniques for modelmakers' saws. I have methods that I employ on my full-size cabinet saw, but I'm not certain that they're applicable to small saws. Generally, a sled that carries stock has several advantages. But in the meantime, here's a video for you to view, about how to safely resaw thin veneer slices on a bandsaw. I believe the technique can be scaled down:
  11. It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea. Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
  12. That's $20 worth of my time. And that looks like an extrusion of standard dimensions that I might be able to find i a longer length. And if I couldn't, I suppose a carefully dressed piece of wood or baltic birch ply would be adequate.
  13. Hello, I hope you might find this useful. I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound. https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
  14. I'm not familiar with this particular jointer, but It's possible to make or buy a block of wood with neodymium magnets embedded in the surface. These will hold the blade at the correct height while cinching down the locking screws. Another source of very powerful magnet is from disassembling an old computer hard disk. You'll also obtain a very very flat mirror-polished disk that is an excellent front-surface mirror. I use it for various things, but that's another story.
  15. Here is a handplaning jig that may be more applicable and convenient for you. It's possible to make this type of jig adjustable for any thickness that you desire. https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/thickness-planing/ The easily adjustable jig: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-72513-precision-planing-jig/

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