donrobinson

Here is the process for making eyebolts and hooks, please remember this not my idea but one I found here and I don't remember the gentleman's name:
 

Lay wire on jig insert drill bit and pull down on the bit
 

Keep bending and turning the wire over the bit leaving a slight overlap
 

move the wire around and bend it down on the bevelled edge, this lines the eye up with the shaft of the bolt
 

sorry for blurry picture, my left hand was a little shaky today. This a finished eyebolt
 

to make a hook lay the eyebolt flat on the jig
 

insert bit and bend the wire up
 

turn bolt back around to bevelled edge of jig and make a slight bend
 

cut the excess wire off and you have a eyebolt. 
 

 This picture shows the hook we just made(on the left) and some other sizes I've made. The bronze hooks and eyebolts are for the gun carriages on my Pegasus
 

 a clearer picture of the jig, easy to make and easy to use
 
Hope this is useful
 
Mike: I forgot to answer your question about the rigging rope The rope does not compare to Syren, nothing does,but the rope supplied is quite adequate and I won't be exchanging it out. I used the Syren rope for the anchor as it was a little bigger, which I thought looked better.

Mike : Yes, you can make very consistent ones. The brass rod I used was approx. 5mm or 3/8". To determine the size of hole required you take the size of eye you want( 1mm for example) plus twice the diameter of wire (.5 mm) so a hole of 2 mm would be required, you would then use a 1 mm bit to form the eyes. Drill hole into rod, file off approx. half the length of the hole until half of it is exposed then at the very end file a little bit of a bevel as seen in the pictures. I must admit I use this same jig almost all the time, making a jig for the exact size you want would make it even easier. On the jig shown the opposite end has a different size hole. 

Mike- Thanks Mike, the hinges were not that bad to make but at this scale this kind of thing is much easier
 
Christian - You are so right saying that, and it is a nice change do a ship such as this. There are a few more MarisStella models I also want to try, they are such great kits. Thanks for for your compliments>

Thanks Zoltan, good of you to stop in for a visit

Elijah- Thanks for stopping in, I'm looking forward to your next build log
 
Pierre - The rope for the handles is from Syren(.63 mm) and the the rope tying the lids together is just normal polyester sewing thread that I put a serving on
 
Ian- Hi! Thanks for the compliment and I hope things are going well for you
 
Bob - Thanks, I appreciate you dropping by
 
Dave - I was thinking of your builds when I finally cut up my rosewood board. I bought this board almost forty years ago and have never cut into it
 
E.J. - Hey how are things? Thanks for that, I may just go to my little cabinet and have a refreshment 

And finally the last of my updates, this first one is showing block and bracket installed for bowsprit
 

 
This one is showing a piece I missed on the plans, rather important as it supports the rudder
 

 
All the masts (full length is not in picture), bowsprit and spars are made.Some of the rigging is complete, the lower spars have a bit of a complicated rigging with a traveller and also a mouse of sorts
 

 
A close up of the aft lower spar showing the rigging
 

 
Masts are just temporally put together for picture 

 
That's about it for this update, all plans for being outside are on hold as we are getting snow today so I'm hoping to have a productive day in shipyard, after laundry and dishes are done
 You all Have a good day and Thanks so much for stopping in

Nothing too exciting here, I just thought I would show how I seize a block to a hook.
 

And finally the last of my updates, this first one is showing block and bracket installed for bowsprit
 

 
This one is showing a piece I missed on the plans, rather important as it supports the rudder
 

 
All the masts (full length is not in picture), bowsprit and spars are made.Some of the rigging is complete, the lower spars have a bit of a complicated rigging with a traveller and also a mouse of sorts
 

 
A close up of the aft lower spar showing the rigging
 

 
Masts are just temporally put together for picture 

 
That's about it for this update, all plans for being outside are on hold as we are getting snow today so I'm hoping to have a productive day in shipyard, after laundry and dishes are done
 You all Have a good day and Thanks so much for stopping in

Nothing too exciting here, I just thought I would show how I seize a block to a hook.
 

Thanks to all for stopping by, for your likes and gracious comments. Almost a month since last update and I have accomplished some.
First up is making some oar locks:
 

 
From left to right: kit supplied one, outline on rosewood board, initial cutting on mill, after sanding on disc sander and final product
 

 
Pins installed in bottoms and a coat of WOP (two extra to cover breakage)
 

 
The Trabaccolo has two fittings unique to herself and the Brazzera. These are both belaying points, one style for the halyards and the other for the stays
 


 
The finished product
 

 
For the stays
 

 
And for the halyards, one at the mizzen and one at fore mast
 

Thanks Dave, hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will see your post and have an answer for you.

Zoltan: Thanks, I'm just passing on a idea that I found here on MSW
 
E.J.: No problem, it really is a good little jig and it also works for making hinges

Ian, Thanks buddy. This a real good project for the new mill. Canadian Tire has the brass rod

Mike : Yes, you can make very consistent ones. The brass rod I used was approx. 5mm or 3/8". To determine the size of hole required you take the size of eye you want( 1mm for example) plus twice the diameter of wire (.5 mm) so a hole of 2 mm would be required, you would then use a 1 mm bit to form the eyes. Drill hole into rod, file off approx. half the length of the hole until half of it is exposed then at the very end file a little bit of a bevel as seen in the pictures. I must admit I use this same jig almost all the time, making a jig for the exact size you want would make it even easier. On the jig shown the opposite end has a different size hole. 

Here is the process for making eyebolts and hooks, please remember this not my idea but one I found here and I don't remember the gentleman's name:
 

Lay wire on jig insert drill bit and pull down on the bit
 

Keep bending and turning the wire over the bit leaving a slight overlap
 

move the wire around and bend it down on the bevelled edge, this lines the eye up with the shaft of the bolt
 

sorry for blurry picture, my left hand was a little shaky today. This a finished eyebolt
 

to make a hook lay the eyebolt flat on the jig
 

insert bit and bend the wire up
 

turn bolt back around to bevelled edge of jig and make a slight bend
 

cut the excess wire off and you have a eyebolt. 
 

 This picture shows the hook we just made(on the left) and some other sizes I've made. The bronze hooks and eyebolts are for the gun carriages on my Pegasus
 

 a clearer picture of the jig, easy to make and easy to use
 
Hope this is useful
 
Mike: I forgot to answer your question about the rigging rope The rope does not compare to Syren, nothing does,but the rope supplied is quite adequate and I won't be exchanging it out. I used the Syren rope for the anchor as it was a little bigger, which I thought looked better.

len: Thanks, hope it helps someone
 
Mike : Thanks. The tool is clamped in a vise then using an appropriate sized drill bit you bend the wire around it. I can post some pictures if you want

Hey everyone, I hope you are all enjoying the weekend. Thanks to all for stopping, for your likes and comments.
 Today's update is showing the catheads and anchors. I realise it is a bit early for the anchors but I couldn't resist the urge to see how they would look, they can be easily removed if required.
 

This is a practice cathead, just to get the fit, angles and dimensions right. This is just 6 x 6 mm basswood, the final product is made from 6 x 6 mm rosewood. The holes and simulated sheaves were made on the mill using a 1 mm end mill cutter.
 

 
I am just showing for those who haven't done this before how I install the anchors. A line is put through the eye on the cathead pulled through, doubled over itself forming a loop, wrapped around itself(three times in this case) and then fed through the loop 
 

Pull both ends to tighten seizing 
 

 Then move seizing up into place
 

 There is a hook stropped to the double block. The line is then fed through block and sheave in cathead and finally belayed to a cleat. The rope around the anchor shaft has a thimble seized in it. Rope is wrapped around the shaft and belayed to the kinighthead.
 

I didn't care for how loose the line through the cathead and block was so I painted the line with diluted pva glue and added the tweezers for weight
 

This is the final result. The anchor rope is from Syren that has been dyed from tan to brown. All other rope used is kit supplied, The hook on the block needs some touching up...as does some of the other some of the other paint by looking at these close ups
 

And a shot from inboard
 

 Finally a picture of the tool I use to make hooks with. I found this here on MSW some time ago and I can't remember the fellow's name but I surely thank him as it works great.

Mike- Thanks Mike, the hinges were not that bad to make but at this scale this kind of thing is much easier
 
Christian - You are so right saying that, and it is a nice change do a ship such as this. There are a few more MarisStella models I also want to try, they are such great kits. Thanks for for your compliments>

Thanks Zoltan, good of you to stop in for a visit

Elijah- Thanks for stopping in, I'm looking forward to your next build log
 
Pierre - The rope for the handles is from Syren(.63 mm) and the the rope tying the lids together is just normal polyester sewing thread that I put a serving on
 
Ian- Hi! Thanks for the compliment and I hope things are going well for you
 
Bob - Thanks, I appreciate you dropping by
 
Dave - I was thinking of your builds when I finally cut up my rosewood board. I bought this board almost forty years ago and have never cut into it
 
E.J. - Hey how are things? Thanks for that, I may just go to my little cabinet and have a refreshment 

Good morning all, Thanks to all those who have stopped by, left likes and/or comments.
 Just a small update. Some progress such as nailing the main rail(with .4 nylon fishing line) was a bit of a waste of time. I was so happy with the results on the companion way I thought I would do more of it not realising it would be lost in the dark grain of the walnut. Although it may look like what a house fly may have left behind the nails can be seen(if you really look close) on some of the close ups. Breast hooks, knightheads and the aft rail were also completed, I replaced the kit supplied walnut with rosewood for these. Another detail that is hard to notice is the rope used to tie the hatch lids together. I finally put my Syren serving machine together and decided to serve some line for the first time and give it a try. The line served is just normal sewing thread and I used the same thread for the serving, the final rope measures approximately .5 mm and again you have to look real close. 
 

An eye was seized in one end of rope then the other end pulled through and tied off with a couple of half hitches 
 
Take Care and Thanks for stopping in.

Thanks B.E. and Blighty, I appreciate you guys stopping in

Thanks Ross, much appreciated

Good Morning All, Thanks to everyone for stopping in, for your likes and comments. This a new one for me, two updates in a week, but without my vehicle(another story) shipyard time has increased. I have completed the back rails which I will show in my next post as they aren't attached yet and will complete the breast hooks today as Mike is on edge waiting to see them. For now I have nailed the companion way and made some cleats from rosewood.
 

Here I am showing how I mask it to try and get a relatively straight line.
 

Here are a couple of shots showing holes drilled and nails in place. I used .4 mm nylon fishing line. First side I cut these off using flush cutters then sanded smooth, this side I used a sharp blade to cut off then sanded. The blade worked much better and very little sanding was required, just enough to remove excess glue. Should be noted the companion way had several coats of poly on it to prevent any stains from the ca glue.
 

 Here are the results, I think the .4 mm fishing line is the right scale and looks good. With a little more practice I may do a deck someday. I also found some light brown .3 mm fishing line that I may do a test section on my Pegasus with. 
 

Here I'm just showing the steps of making cleats. As you can see they are fairly large about 10 mm so they were fairly easy to make, that's one of the beauties of working at this scale.  The first one is after rough shaping on the Byrnes disc sander and the middle one is after some fine tuning with riffler file the cleat on the right is the kit supplied one. I would not normally spend twenty minutes making a cleat but I only need two so I thought what the heck. As you can see I have two extra ones that I am willing to offer to members here before I list them on ebay 
 

Here I'm rough shaping it on the disc sander.The thing off to the right in the picture is a crepe block used to clean the sanding disc, this helps prolong the life of your disc or belt if you have a thickness sander. You can get these at Lee Valley they are cheap and last forever.
 Thanks once more for stopping in and have a good one.
 

Hhahahahahaha Mike, You got me laughing on that one. I may need to have a cocktail(drink) to calm down. Good news about the shop, now to get it set up and back to some hobbies!