Laurence_B

I finally succumbed.Do not tell the Memsaab.

I whent to a carboot sale yesterday and picked this up for £!9.
 
Tony                                                                                                                                    
                                                                          
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
3

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your kind words, I am pleased and appreciate your posts a lot. That is a great honour for me.
 
 
 
Dear Danny and Mark,
in this room there are about 30 ship models and more than 60 cars (mainly plastic models in a scale 1/24). The oldest ships I built about 20 years ago.
Many of these older models were quite easy, so there was not a problem to build several ships during every year. Now I prefer to create mainly large sailing ships (scratch build), so it takes me thousands of hours (for example Sovereign of the seas about 6000 hours and Royal Caroline almost 7000). Now I have only one problem - there is no spare space for more....
And the collection of bottles with alcohol - this is my husband's hobby ( but he does not drink it, only collects).....
 
 
 
 
Dear Vivian, thank you for your support and kind words. I am sure, I will continue with other projects and show it also here. Now I need to relax a little, so I spend some time to assemble plastic models.
For example La Reale by Heller:

http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=95541&start=30
Unfortunately this is a poor-quality kit ( I purchase the older one), so there are many troubles with fragile or damaged parts and in addition, the model parts are very inaccurate.
 
Next time I will rather choose Tamiya kits....
 
Best regards
Doris

The rigging is now done! I added the crossjack, topsail yard and the gaff and boom to the mizzen mast. The yards and their rigging are virtually identical to the fore and main and need no further description. The boom and gaff were made up with their jaws cut and shaped from strip and bead parrels added. The boom was rigged with topping lifts, sheets and guys. the gaff was rigged with peak and throat halliards and vangs.
 
The access clearances got really tight between the main and mizzen, particularly in doing the braces, which basically run between the two masts .This work resulted in a number of "accidents" and some very colorful language. 
 
I have a few comments on the rigging process. I used Chuck's blocks and rigging line throughout. I tried to keep as close to scale sizes as possible. As a result, the majority of the blocks were quite small and the majority of the line of small diameters. The blocks are really good looking and well made. I did find that drilling the sheave  holes with a very slightly larger drill size made them easier to work with. The rigging line is also very good looking and generally easy to work with. As I've mentioned before, my only problem with it is a tendency to stretch or sag once in place. This presented some issues when running rigging lines had to be attached to the standing rigging.
 
With completion of the rigging, the only remaining items of work are the anchors, the stern lantern and possibly a boat to be hung from the stern davits.The kit castings for the anchors and lantern are not usable. I will scratch build the anchors and I'm continuing to look for a suitable lantern. I probably won't do the boat.
 
Bob

The anchors have been made and mounted. That leaves only the lantern  ( I've pretty much decided not to do another boat).
 
The anchors and their stocks were all made from boxwood strip, with the anchors painted black and the stocks finished with Wipe-on Poly. The bands on the stocks are black painted paper. The bouys were shaped  from walnut dowel. 
 
I found a Caldercraft lantern that hopefully will be suitable, and I am awaiting it's arrival from Cornwall Model Boats. 
 
Bob

DONE!! Essex is now completed. The last item was the lantern kit from Caldercraft that just arrived from the UK. Etched brass with a white metal top and base and brass rod support. A fussy little piece to do, but correct in size and shape.
 
Essex has now sat for her completion portraits and it is time for some reflection on the past almost two years that I have worked on her:
 
1) This was a great challenge. Those who have followed along from the beginning will remember that I almost gave up in frustration at the problems that presented themselves. I'm very glad that I didn't. It turned into an enjoyable and rewarding experience. I had my doubts about how things would turn out and some of my fears were realized --  for example, the placement of the quarterdeck gun ports turned out wrong when I did the rigging. This was my fault for not having thought it through well enough when I was making the various structural changes that were required. I thank everyone for kindly not pointing out the errors  when they appeared.
 
2) I will not do another model at this small a scale again. The problems of aging eyes and arthritic hands made some of the very small work and particularly the rigging in very close quarters a pain. This probably also means that this may be the last large complex ship that I will model. My current plan is to stick to smaller vessels in larger scales. Chuck's Cheerful is next.
 
3) Some words of warning and encouragement to those wishing to build the "new" Essex kit. I have not seen it, but I've read the posts from some who have. If the drawings have not been changed, you will have problems. The drawings have scale issues, inconsistency issues and, according to Sam Cassano, were not his final drawings. Using the AOTS Essex as an additional reference is a help, but care will still be required to make it all work. Having said that, I think that anyone with moderate skills and some experience can turn out a creditable model. I would love to see some logs started, and I would be happy to provide any help that may be desired.
 
Thanks to all for the interest, the generous thoughts and comments and the help and encouragement throughout this project. It is always appreciated and is what makes this site so great. A special thank you to Sam for all his help and a wish for his good health.
 
Bob

I finally made my decision. The choices were: 1) abandon the project (totally unacceptable); 2) try to get a whole new kit from ME and begin again ( not likely to happen); 3) get replacement parts from ME and tear out the bow and stern framing (possible, but not likely for a while and probably a pain to accomplish); 4) try to correct the bulkheads (worth at least a try, since I'd still be able to remove them later).
 
I started with the stern bulkheads. The last four were improperly sized and shaped. The simplest fix seemed to be to add wood to them and then sand to shape, which is what I have done. I added 1/16" x 3/16 " strips that were wet heat bent to shape and glued on in layers as seemed to be needed. The two sides were different because I had previously tried to fair one side. After these had set up, I faired both sides. I can only say that now the stern area is faired to a point where battens fit. I have no idea whether the lines I have faired to are "correct" or whether the port framing I have done by extrapolating from incorrect drawings will turn out right down the road. I'm hoping for the best.
 
The photos show the sequence of the work and the current state of the stern area. Now it's on to the bow.
 
Bob
 
 

I've now attached and braced all of the bulkheads. Mostly this work was very straight forward and went along with few difficulties ( after I had spent considerable time opening up the slots when I first fitted them). A couple of the bulkheads were not sized properly and had to be adjusted by adding strip wood on the inner side at the top and reducing the outside by sanding.
 
Kudos to Model Expo for sending me the replacement laser cut sheet that I had requested in just a few days, which allowed me to complete the bulkhead  mounting.
 
I braced the bulkheads with strip wood, added wood blocks for mounting the masts and added strip wood framing for the drop down deck planking. Lastly, I sanded the bulkheads to get them level for the future decking. Next, I will do the gun deck gun port framing to help stiffen up the framing prior to fairing. I will leave the stern framing and the bow and stern filler blocks until that's done.
 
Bob

Photo Update time...
 
Sherbourne is moving on very quickly currently, and the final touches are being applied before the model is completed, but that will more than likely be in the next two weeks.
 
I will reef the topsail tonight, but with the Admiral being sent home from work with flu-like symptoms, I may be on duty in the sickbay.
 
Here's a few photo's on Sherbourne flying her Topsail up against the harbour wall.
 

 
Note in the first photo you can see a hazy patch on the display case, this where the CA Glue has run and I've tried (and failed) to clear it up. I will use my day off on Friday to clear this up, after my trip to the Physiotherapy Department at the hospital.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Jonny

Afternoon Chaps,
 
Two parts to today's update, an update on Sherbourne, and an update on Lily (I have a feeling that the dog is more popular on here than Sherbourne)!
 
Ratlines have been started. Currently working on the Starboard side, and tying them at 10mm centres. My methodology for this is similar to the ratlines on Convulsion, but the difference will be that I will tie a second lot in between the 10mm gaps to reduce the gaps to 5mm at 1:64, or 320mm at 1:1!
 

 

 

 

 
Sorry for the dark photo's, the poor morning light doesn't help much!
 
On my next build, I will try using the method I've seen on YouTube where the ratlines are stitched through the Shroads and ties off at each end. I'm running out of thread now, so I won't be taking the approach now, although I'd like to.
 
Pupdate.....
 
Lily is now 7 weeks old, and is completely mad! She was so excited to see us, and really enjoyed chewing on my fingers and Lucy's hair! I'm sure this will be a great source of entertainment for many weeks to come!
 

 

 
Cheers
Jonny

Hi Ross,
 
Welcome to the forum and Club Unicorn.
The plans for the Unicorn do not show gun port lids,but they can be seen on contemporary models at the National Maritime Museum.
 

 
You should check out Ian Major's log,if you have not done so yet,as he (and Landlubber Mike) have done a lot of research on the ship. Ian has gone with lids on the rear three and two front gun ports,which seems about right to me,I intend to do the same on mine. I hope this helps

Greetings all,
Time to update the log with some painfully slow progress on the Unicorn......
 I was intending to finish the quarterdeck plank-sheer and railings before moving on. I purchased some Fiebing's black leather dye and stained the wood needed in preparation. I really liked the results,the dye doesn't clog the grain like paint and leaves a nice deep even black finish. I cut the pieces needed for the quarterdeck and then realized I was getting ahead of myself. The plank-sheer would have to be constructed for the whole ship,as doing it in sections as I went forward would make the curves and joints difficult.

 
So I had to put the foredeck in place. As I have tossed Corel's supplied one piece deck, I was stuck on how long my foredeck should be. Ian was a great help in supplying me with information and side elevation views of contemporary ships. The foredeck extends rearward to the right point now but is two scale feet shorter because Corel's fore most bulkhead is two feet back from where it should be.
JPG]

 
 
Ian also mentioned the foremast was too far back on the deck by two scale feet. I will move it forward,but this puts it right above one of the deck support beams.I had to alter said beam so the mast can be put in place and and leave support for the deck. The hole should be right in the middle 


 
Now I have to finish the internals of the forecastle before the deck can be fixed in place. The guns are already assembled,just need rigging and fastening in place. I did need to construct a iron hearth stove and riding bits. I constructed the stove using .030" styrene. I would have like to use a more organic material for this but,I needed something I could cut easily and had a smooth surface that would look like Iron.


 
Now the riding bits. I am only going to make and use the rear one. Thanks again to Ian for his plan of the bits in his log

 
Here is the finished assembly and its position.



 
To be continued.......

John, thanks for the very kind words.
 
The Chapman plans may seem a little confusing and wrong, but I have a feeling he might have been accurate.  His other drawings are very complete, showing railings (see the ship above the Unicorn) where there were railings.  It makes me think that there may not have been any railings on the Unicorn, as Chapman likely would have added them.  I think what you see is a solid bulwark extending all the way.  The bulwarks are fairly high up at the fore end of the quarterdeck, and maybe there less of a need for railings.
 
I took another look at Gardiner's "The Sailing Frigate" -- in Chapter 4 on "The 'True Frigate' 1748-1778", it sounds like the Unicorn might not have had a quarterdeck railing as it was substantially designed off of French lines at the time:
 
"...French designers had achieved an important advance by a subtle alteration in the layout of 'two-decked' cruisers.  British 24s had a heavily framed full height lower deck, necessary to fight the guns and to allow rowing with standing oarsmen . . . .  By contrast, in the latest French ships the lower deck was little more than a light platform, with much reduced headroom, and the deck itself, at its lowest point, positioned just below the waterline.  This compressed the height of the topside, while the forecastle and quarterdeck were unarmed and had virtually no barricades or rails to catch the wind; combined with fine lines and light framing, this made for fast and weatherly ships. . . . This formula was eventually adopted by all the major navies, and was dubbed the 'true frigate' form, in retrospect, by naval historians." (emphasis added)
 
For the Lyme plans, I think what you see are the portholes mostly existing in the open area between the top of the solid bulwarks and top of the rails.  They are almost the reverse of the Unicorn, where the porthole outer circumference opens up at the bottom, whereas the Unicorn's open at the top.  The portholes were probably somewhat decorative, and were framed on either side.  Here are a few ships shown in the Gardiner book from the NMM that I think exemplify what the Lyme's quarterdeck portholes might have looked like:
 

 

 
 
I think I am going to go with the Lyme.  The plans I have are very detailed, though I think I could use them without issue for the Unicorn.  The differences as I can tell are (1) the Unicorn was a beakhead ship, (2) the Unicorn had a Unicorn figurehead while the Lyme had a lion figurehead, (3) the Unicorn's railings were a little more decorative at the ends with the curls versus more straight ends for the Lyme, (4) the Unicorn has an extra railing at the stem which seems a bit different from other ships, and (5) the rudders and shape of the lower stem are a bit different.  For me, it just boils down to the fact that I like the looks of the Lyme a little more than the Unicorn the way the windows are sized and shaped, and the stern decorations.  Unfortunately what I can't tell from Chapman is whether the cathedral windows were full windows, or were square windows with decorative arches at the top.  The Lyme's middle window on the stern galleries is a full cathedral style window, so maybe the Unicorn actually had those windows throughout the stern?

John,
 
I have taken a couple of extracts from the Chapman diagram along with the English feet (E) scale bar (he also has French (F) and Stockholm (S) feet scale bars ). I have marked the quarter deck level with red arrows, the foredeck with green and the upper deck levels with blue arrows. The quarter deck level is clearly marked on the plan but the fore deck level isn't.
 
Using the scale bar I measured the distance between decks as 7ft 6inches on this diagram. As you say 1:75 scale is 4.064mm to the foot so this gives a scale distance of 30.5mm.  Now on my Unicorn my deck height is 26mm so if I were to be adding a false deck this would be a lift of 4.5mm.  
 

 
From the links that Mike supplied you will see that our discussions pointed to the fact that the Corel plan has the decks sweeping upwards towards the rear whereas the Chapman plan shows them remaining fairly level. So - IMHO - the false deck would be about 4 to 5mm above the original deck at the leading edge dropping to the same level at the rear. 
 
Another point in our discussions is that you will see that the Chapman plan has only solid bulwarks on the quarter deck. Now if you measure the height of the bulwark at the forward end it is only about 2ft high. So almost certainly there was an open rail above this. The height of this rail above the bulwark would decrease towards the rear. The supports for this rail would also have rigging mountings for any guns on the quarter deck.
 
For the step up from the waist I think this photo shows what to aim for. I borrowed it from Dan Vadas' Vulture log (I hope he doesn't mind  )
 

 
The detail on how he made his gangway can be see here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/230-hms-vulture-by-dan-vadas-1776-148-scale-16-gun-swan-class-sloop-from-tffm-plans/?p=135946
  
His full log starts here  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/230-hms-vulture-by-dan-vadas-1776-148-scale-16-gun-swan-class-sloop-from-tffm-plans/
 
The problem with viewing Dan's log is that I look at his work, then my efforts and then weep.     
 
 

Hi Ian,,
 
The picture you asked about is actually one of a few post cards I bought at Bucklers Hard,Hants,which I visited on one of my trips home to Poole in the early 90's. I framed them when I returned to the States. It is well worth a visit if you have never been there,it has a really nice small museum. HMS Agamemnon was built there.
 
Titled "British Frigate In Pursuit  Of French Cutter In The Napoleonic Wars" by Thomas Buttersworth 1868 - 1842
 

 
This is one Bucklers Hard Itself,the Shipwrights and families lived in the row houses which were in two rows facing each other across the open area where timber and materials were stored The ways were on the river bank by the 3 small trees. Adams the Master Shipwright lived in the last house by the river.
 

 
As for the other models built,I have two left out of the five I have built. Two I gave to good friends (Golden Hind & Swift) and another (Le Hussard) to my neighbor,a doctor as thanks for saving my life a couple of years ago.
 
The ones I have left are..
 
Halifax. 1:35 Scale by Robbe..


 
Armed Launch 1803 1:17 Scale by Panart



 
My wife is very understanding regarding my decor......The .hanging picture is a framed tea towel (also from B.H. gift store)

 
I don't know how to add these models to my profile.
 
Regards John
 

Greetings to all,
I decided to start a build log for my current  work on Corel's HMS Unicorn. I started this kit a long time ago,nearly completing the hull planking before taking a hiatus. After retiring and moving to a house with a small work area I started on the project again. This was also spurred on by finding this forum and reading the posts of others like Ian and Mike,who worked their way through the problems found with this kit,which was one of the reasons work ceased.
 

 
I have now finished the hull and gun deck planking.
 


 
The rudder.
 
.
 
 I am working on the transom and galleries.
 


 
 Next the gallery roofs and bottoms need to be finished.
 
I will post the progress of the build in more detail from this point forward.
 
John
 
 
 
 

Okay...before you-know-who does ask....here's is a modest update.
I cut these parts by hand (tedium ad infinitum) and still have some minor tweaking to do, but this is it so far.
 

 

Hello! 
 
It is my last work - head figure and decor for Royal yacht " Queen Victoria "

Change of plans....
I decided to press on with completing the re-planking of the starboard side and be done with it.
 
Also decided to pass on this technique I'm using to cut the shape of the bow planks.
I found that the use of tracing paper to mark the shape proved to be very tricky because the paper tends to move around and doesn't like to lay flat for marking the edge.
 
This wide painters masking tape works great!

Note the markings on the hull indicating the measured width of the planks at several points along the strake.

Mid hull markings indicate the full width of each plank for the twenty strakes.
 
The marked masking tape is carefully trimmed along the traced line and then transferred to the paper planking material.

The marked planking strip is carefully trimmed along the traced edge (top)....
Then, after marking the exact width points, use a curve template to create the smooth contour of the outside edge (bottom).
Finally, cut the plank along the outside edge marking.

Perfect fit....

Finished re-planking port side hull below the main gun wale.
I used strips of 140 lb. water color paper.... Sprayed with gray primer and brushed three coats of white acrylic.... light sanding between each coat.

That's much more better....

These two figures will stand atop the middle roof of the portico....
It appears the male figure on the right is giving some sort of signal to the enemy on behalf of King Charles....

 
 
King Chuck was a real hoot.
 

Next step should be a real challenge.... The stern galleries and portico's is a major undertaking.

Dry fitting the module.... Much of this very complex unit will be completed off ship.... 

 
 
 
 

Finished with the portside gun port panel figures.... 
The Scorpion....

The Scales and Scorpion installed....

The port side figures....

Progress on the port side. Added gilded moldings and trim pieces on each side of the upper gun ports.

 
The panels below the gun ports are hand painted with metallic gold.

Thanks Giorgio.... I do have the link to the SOS by Arthur Molle and will be using it among others as a reference.