PeteB

Well now I have a bit more room
Kingfisher is back to center stage at last.
 

 
Today I will finish off the bolts in the proper cradle, I had to lower the topmast because the long table that Albertic was occupying is about 5 inches higher, but that is OK for the moment. And I fixed my chiming mantle clock, I had missed it's sweet sound.
 
Michael
 

A small update, I have started to reinforce the opening in the deck for the new removable companionway and skylight section.
 

and while waiting for the glue to dry I made a few more studs for the cradle structure these are 2x56 threads and steel nuts with brass studs.

 
Michael
 

Back to the build. Thanks for all the fine comments.
 
I have done a little more work on the companionway adding the slide track and rough fitted the solid roof section.
 

 

 
Once the companionway is basically assembled, only three more dorade vents to form. The next step will be to cut the openings in the removable deck section then it will be ready for the structure and decking.
 
Michael
 

Mark I am not quite sure what you mean, but here is a recent shot taken by one of the club members.
 

 
Also I made a new set of Dacron sails from some old sails that were given to me. What a difference in light airs The ten oz canvas ones are good for strong winds but are not good in light air.
 
Michael

Hi Mark I am firming up my thoughts and a white top will likely be the final choice, with a canvas type texture.
 
Here are a couple of views of the companionway glued up with the solid panels that will be installed closer to the finish.
 

 
I am now shaping the cross members to get ready for the fixed portion of the top. I still need to cut the channels for the slide on the hatch.
I have been out sailing for the past few days, with Maria.
 
Michael

Hi Michael,
 
the result on the vents is very good, & I've learned something new from this.
 
On the companionway top colour: I feel that having a different colour to the top (from the sides colour) lowers the apparent height of the overall structure, which in most cases looks better on a boat as it elongates the overall lines. I also feel that a paler colour makes it look a bit wider than with a darker colour, so again I feel that it looks better.
 
Mark

Thanks Bedford.
 
Here is a shot of the progression of the vent.
 

 
I have been working on the structure of the companionway it is basically dry assembled at the moment.
 

 

 

 
I keep leaving the card on the top, because I actually like the contrast between it and the sides.
 
Michael
 

Thanks for all the likes and fine comments. A bit more work today first order was to make a couple of left and right Dorade vent forms first a 3/4 diameter end mill then into the side with a 5/16 these were then cut to create the right and left sides.
 

 
Switching gears to the companionway the side panels needed to join with the front and rear cross panels, for this i chose dovetails the same as the skylight.
The initial cuts for the pins were done with the small back saw and the jewelers saw.
 

 
Next they were clamped in the vice with some tool steel guides
 

 
and cleaned up with a few files.
 

 
Then the pins were transferred to the sides and the dovetails marked and cut with the jewelers saw and cleaned up with the files. the front panel required the most dovetails. you can see the primary vent forms in the background I worked on the starboard form first using some .008" brass and also made a domed plug from maple to assist with forming the main bowl section.
 
 
 
Here is a shot of the companionway dry assembled with a scrap panel to see how the new vent looks.
 

 
It is much more durable in the thicker brass, but I think I need to work the form a bit more, the tube section down to the box will need to be opened up a bit to form a better flow it looks a bit restricted. I will also keep it polished.
 
Michael
 
 

When forming brass - or silver, for that matter - one cannot anneal too often. If you don't, the metal will tear. Beautifully done, Michael. That is a tough shape to achieve.

The thing that I do like about this scale is the many options for experimenting with processes. Today I made a small form for making the dorade vents and used some .003" brass shim stock to see how easy the shape would be to replicate. here are the results.
The first annealing

 
second annealing
 

 
After 4 more annealing s
 

 
it was looking promising
 

 
A bit more trimming with some small scissors and a dab of paints
 

 

 
So now I know that they are possible I think some heavier shim-stock say 006 or 008 might be better then some proper patina.
 
Michael

Thanks Pat.
I needed some 1 1/2" mahogany so cut some a tad over thickness then thickness planed it down with a simple jig and a block plane.
by using some 3/16  x 1/8th evergreen strip and placing them in the corners of the jig i can plane either or thickness by flipping them up or flat.
 

 

 

 
I then cut the strips to width with the table saw.
 
Next was to lay out the wood over the template to mark the angles and decide on the joints, tenons seemed reasonable.
 

 
They were formed with the usual assortment of saws and chisels.
 

 

 
And a test to get a feel for what the new companionway will look like.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Hello Paul yes I really enjoy working at this scale, that said it becomes more difficult to hide errors.
 
Hi Denis, thanks for looking in.
Bedford, Thanks for the kind remark.
 
Hello Ed, thanks I really appreciate your comment, having spent a great deal of time admiring your own metalwork.
 
Thank you to all who have pressed the like button, it lets me know that you are following along.
 
One of the advantages and disadvantages of designing as I go along is that the structure evolves over time. I have been fiddling with the deck structure for the companionway and skylights for what seems like years and not being very happy with one thing or another. this time i feel positive that I'm getting somewhere now. The structure is solid now and can be lifted off easily in order to add the ballast weight for when I do put her in the water to sail. here are a few shots of the progress.
The first shot shows the Mahogany drop sides for the "lid" these are glued along the length and dovetailed at the corners.
 

 
a close up of the corner, I only used one dovetail the height is a scale 6 inches or so and the thickness is a full 2 inches in scale.
 

 
The stern end all cleaned up.
 

 
I will be adding a thin foam seal around the bottom where the "lid' meets the deck as an added protection to the interior. It will just look like one of the other sealed black joints.
 
I also finally added the rail across the stern, it still needs a little shaping but at leat it is now glued in place.
 

 

 
That's all for now.
 
I have to head out to the lake, being as I am the harbor master of the Edmonton Yacht Club and the docks are coming out tomorrow. September has been a very cool month and we did not get much sailing in during the month. The docks were supposed to come out today but it was 0 degrees, and it is warming up tomorrow to 11, so it will be easier on everyone's hands. there is over 520 feet of floating docks in two lengths that need to be dissembled and stacked on the beach for winter. Also and additional 380 feet of fixed dock. We have a club meal when we are all done.
 
Michael 
 
 
 
 

I could not put this into the scratch built section because it was a kit.
Last night at a meeting with some friends I was given this model boat model.
 

 

 
 
The history as I have it is that my friends father was a machinist and woodworker and he started this model but did not finish is before he died which was some time ago. My friend has no interest in the model other than seeing it when it is put into the water. "it is yours to do with as you see fit" was his comment when he gave it to me.
 

 

 

 

 
 
Seeing this model brought back the memories that I mentioned in another post about the thirteen year old Michael who's  Drafting teacher's Uncle was a model builder and would I like to see them. His Uncle had a model like this on the dining room table to show me.
 
My friend claims that the plans for this model boat are somewhere in the house...... but he has no idea where.
So my question is is there anyone out there who recognizes this Cabin Cruiser , I am thinking it might be a Keelcraft model from the late 40's or early 50's. it is incredibly light and looks to be made from balsa wood.
 

 
There is some really nice woodwork done with mahogany veneers.
 

 
the props and rudders are already installed.
 

 
So there you have it, I know I have been warned to only work on one project at a time, but this one has a lot of charm and touched a lot of buttons in the little boy inside.
 
I do not anticipate this being a quick fix but I think it is going to happen.
 
Michael

For the rivets I found only this photograph from the original boat
from http://cdn.silodrome.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Baby-Bootlegger-30-Bragg.jpg, the rows of rivets appear as dark points in the shadow

 
And one more from a model, made in Germany. Here are the rivets good to see, and the pattern seems to be close to the pattern from the photograph above. Pic comes from http://www.miniwerft.de/die-miniwerft/modelle-im-bau/

 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 

Thank you all for your wonderful encouraging comments, and for the likes.
 
Since it was cold and snowing most of the day I started tidying up the shop I started at the pilot cutter bench which had been used for a while as a wide shelf while the cutter was on the launch trolley.
 
I cleaned and used some past floor wax on the bench then polished it up. After putting the cutter back up on the bench I decided I needed to make a different stand. so made a start on it.
 
It is more like a cradle that might be constructed in a yard than a fancy stand, I think it will be more effective and more solid, there will be some adjustable pads to seat against the hull. The stern cradle parts are the first ones, depending on the weather I might have a full day at the yard tomorrow
 

 

 
It was nice to get her up on the bench again.
 
Michael

Thank you for the likes.
 
Pete, I am melting a few weights every day now, and so far I am up to 25lbs.
 
Steve you are probably right, Apart from the Skipjack launch I am already thinking about the next cutter.
 

 
I felt like getting the trolly finished so worked on it today, it looks a little whimsical but I like the ergonomics of it.
 

 

 
it is a good height for moving to the water.
 

 
Now it just needs a coat of paint. and it will be ready for the cutter's next ballast test.
 
Michael

John, Druxey, Lextin, Grant, Omega, Mark, Sherry. Thank you all for your encouragement with all you positive comments. thanks to all those who added likes.
 
Well I needed to get this next part out of my system, so Jude and I went down to the lake with a bucket of used wheel balance weights and the cutter. to get an idea of what I am dealing with, so this was a test not an official launch.
 

 
it took a while to add them all 60lbs a few at a time, the folk on the beach must have thought we were nuts.
 

 
We ran out of weights so I will need to get another bucket or two.
 
Took a few pics of it floating.
 

 

 
and this is my favorite shot of the day.
 

 
A number of lessons learned
 
1. It will be very heavy because I need a lot more weight to get it another 2 1/2 inches lower in the water
2. the weights will need to be set up so that they can be easily added and removed.
3. I will need a launching vehicle with small bicycle wheels to launch after the weights are added.
4 it was not pleasant lifting the boat out of the water with all the weight in it.
5. the weight was more forward than I expected it to be.
6. total weight was 66lbs with the stand
Tomorrow I will empty the weights out of the hold.
 
Michael

Thank you one and all for your thoughts and input regarding the colour.
 
I will add the white waterline when the red and Black are hard.
 

 

 
Michael
 
 

Afraid you will have to wait just a little longer John, and Pete too.
 
Bottom coat done
 

 

 
One thing I learned as a professional model-builder making architectural models is that it is best to remove all masking as soon as is possible while the paint is still soft but flashed off.
 

 
Tonight I will mask the bottom and work on the areas above the waterline. Also this evening I will visit the paint store one last time for the top paint, because I am still not fully convinced that I have the right colour.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thank you all for your considered comments regarding the colour and for all the likes.
 
Preparations are underway for the final painting, I purchased some masking tape for delicate and fresh paint surfaces. I set the roll up on the lathe and created a 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch division in order to deal with the soft curve.
 
The water line was set with the laser light beam then cross checked with a pencil attached to a scribing block.
 

 

 
The tape went on well and tomorrow I will finish the light sanding and if there is no wind I will start the painting.
 
Michael

Thank you Greg, Jay, Mark, Bedford, Nils, Grant, John E, Bob, Druxey, Remco, and Mark Taylor for all your positive remarks.
 
"Two things I take from that are that you have a MUCH easier rig to unship than I do"
 
Bedford 5 minutes to de-rig, and 20 to re-rig I found out today at the pavillion.
 
"I asume rigged mast and topsail shall nearly be scratching the room cealing."
 
Nils the ceiling in the living room is 10 foot 3 inches so it will be about 3 feet shy
 
All in all the event was very successful, I had a table set up for children to make paper dorys, most of the visitors were young girls and they built 13 dorys during the afternoon, at the end of the day there was a young boy who came, The photographer came around late in the day, so missed the girls in action building their boats.
 

 
There was a lot of positive feedback regarding the pilot cutter.
 
After the event I went outside because there was a bit of commotion on the beach, seems that a boat had been stranded.
 

 
 
 
 
Close but still dry.
 
 
Now to remove the deck hardware and rigging completely so that I can finish painting the hull. and the rest of the seizings and other rigging details.
 
 
 
 
Michael

A set of tiny cleats on Kieth's build log intrigued me regarding how difficult would it be to make a couple for the pilot cutter.
 
The first task is choosing the right approach, I prefer to have a large enough piece of material that I can hold it in my hand while using files because I can feel the work being done.
 
I started by cutting a 5mm strip off the end of a strip of boxwood that was extra from the block making
 

 
The first cleat vanished as the saw completed the cut through the wood and I knew that it would be faster to make another than the futile endeavor to look for the one that took off. This first one was made by working the bottom sides first, then partially shaping the topside before cutting it off the bulk
 

 
On to version 2, this one I began in the more conventional way of shaping the top first using a rectangular needle file with a squared safe edge, the safe edge is very useful and I put it on the one side with a sharpening stone.
 

 

 
I clamped a small wooden clamp on the end so that when the saw cut off the cleat from the main block it was captive for the next operation.
 

 
Here the small cleat is next to the hinge on the companionway door for size comparison in scale this cleat would be 1.5 inches long by 3/8ths wide
 

 
and next to the 10 inch brass cleat on the deck.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Denis thanks.
 
S.os the diameter is 2 scale inches at the moment but is still need a little refining I will bring it down to about 1 5/8th or 13/64 actual.
 
Worked on the set of 4 hinges today, The blade in the jewelers saw was purposely set at about half length to keep it flatter.
 

 
The hinge on the left is the original test hinge
 

 

 
Drilling and countersinking the fixing holes, the holes are .033 or a number 66 drill and i had to make the countersink from a bit of drill rod
At first I used some hard maple as a backing support but I needed a harder surface so used a piece of 1/2 inch square Duraluminium bar
 

 
The hinge pin is 1/32 or 1/4 inch scale
 

 
Michael

Had a great day today, family time I got some nice gifts some small metal toolmakers clamps from lee valley plus a mitre box for the razor saw, the first commercially made one I have ever owned,  and some boat building time.
 
Gluing up the doors using some wedges and bicycle inner tube bands
 

 
Making a test hinge first some 1/64 thick brass strip was annealed and folded over some .015 steel rod the the excess was cut off with the jewelers saw
 

 
next the half was slotted, again with the saw
 

 
the second half was made in the same manner
 

 
next the sides were filed up square and even
 

 
checking the size on the side of the door
 

 
next the relief needs to be filed into the doors and the sides of the companionway before the doors are mounted.
 

 
Oh yes and now I need to make a set of four hinges that are the same size.
 
Michael

Thanks Mark, perhaps I will do a bit of careful editing at the first few pages over the next while and see about adding in some of the earlier pictures.
 
I did not get much time in the shop today, I had to go get water and also dealt with some more computer configuring.
 
Here are a few pictures of the progress on the doors for the companionway, They are still quite rough regarding the shape, but I am happy with the overall design I still need to shorten the panel and make the curved top rail the bottom rails are tennoned into the stiles.
 

 

 
I thought I would see how things look in Black and white.
 

 

 
I was doing some searching for images of Genesta and some of the early black and white photographs that were taken while some of the big yachts were racing are really stunning. they are sharp and well posed a true testament to the photographers and cameras of the time.
 
Michael