PeteB

Hi Ed - been following your build with interest and see its coming along nicely. I started mine in 1983 and nearly gave it a Viking burial a few years back but decided to give it another shot and have nearly finished cleaning years of accumulated dust and gunk away.
 
I see you are getting close to fitting the stern gallery and walks which was an area where I really had to wrestle with the beast - so just a call out to take your time and trial fit before committing. I ended up having to put in a curved filler piece to get the spacing right for the lower quarter decoration pieces, the kit at that time was a DIY cut out so its possible I may have cut something wrong.
 
The other area are the Head Rails which in my kit were only supplied as flat ply and really let the rest of the model down. They are really a feature of any model and if they are the same in the current kit you might like to consider using them as templates and construct some more 3D rails out of Box or Pear. Whilst I didn't want to start a rebuild  and just want to finish off the rigging  - mine bug me so much I am actively considering rebuilding them.
 
Lastly attached a pic of mine to raise the issue of Real Estate needed, once you put up all the poles your going to need plenty. Looking forward to watching your build. Cheers Pete
 

Hi Giampiero - Mate you are a “Machine”. First the beautiful “L'Amarante” at 1:30 then you follow it up with the superb “La Venus at 1:96 and to just to make it a bit more interesting you launch her in 12 months no less.
And without taking a breath here we are already on page 3 of your HMS Pegasus build log, 7588 nails later (you haven't got any of Santas Elves working off-season in your workshop have you? ). Mate that’s what gets you the title of a “Machine” down my way 🙂 – all absolutely beautiful work that I admire each time I read a post. -  
No pressure but we are expecting perfection this time 😉 Stay safe Cheers Pete

I am sharing a video I made for those interested in small metal welding. Following some tutorials and videos, I built myself a resistance welder; it is a type of welder that they use mainly in model railways, where it is necessary to make many close welds. This type of soldering iron uses a 10 Ah transformer with 3-6V outputs and has the advantage that it heats, by means of a small graphite electrode and a ground wire, exactly the spot where the soldering is to take place for just a few seconds; this means that you can also make close-set soldering joints without running the risk of desoldering those previously made. Various types of tips can be used, including a ‘clamp’ system, which is very useful when parts to be soldered must be held together.  Everything else is self-made and I must say that I am very satisfied with the results!
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
 
https://youtu.be/XRzU--9uhBA

hello guys! 
 
long time no new model from me. job, family and life in general (the usual suspects) got in the way of me doing this more often. fortunately, I was able to divert much of my free time lately into modeling this Type VIIC. I wanted to do a certain scene in Unreal Engine 5 where, among other things, I would need a German sub. since I like Type VIIC look very much I decided to model my own for the purpose. Ironically, I don't think that the model will fit the scene in the end, but modeling the sub was pretty enjoyable affair and I'm glad I did it. apart from researching and hunting for good set of plans and references. that went horrible...
 
since free time is, well... an issue for me lately, I haven't spent much (enough?) time doing research and going really deep with it. I ended up with a mish mash of plans, references, other models and whatnot, which didn't have a lot in common with one another and by the time I gathered a lot of references I was thoroughly confused on which particular sub should I model, which details to include, etc... the fact that existing scale model kits and 3d models aren't particularly accurate to begin with, it didn't help my cause much. it seemed to me that even particular sub models, like that of U-96, featured various differences between models, depending on authors interpretations. all of this resulted in me doing the general hull shape like 5 times. each time, if I modeled it according to one set of plans or images, it didn't fit to other plans and references. I was torn between just doing manual corrections where needed (accuracy be damned), and doing a historically accurate model as much as possible. in the end I was so frustrated that I just said sc*ew it and started modeling the sub including various details as I saw fit or found interesting along the way.
 
so, taking in account all of the above, I present to you a general model of Type VIIC, with no particular vessel in mind. there are various details that I included in "optional" collection which might've been featured on particular vessels, and that can be turned on or off at will. for my purposes it will be more than enough, and hopefully enjoyable read for you. 
 
first, the "done" renders, and then I'll try to recreate the modeling process in following posts. hope you like it!
 

 
 
detail variations ...
 

 
and an underwater render attempt...

 
modeling process breakdown to follow....

mizzen topsail is done. onto the topgallants....
 










 

continuing while I have enough steam in my system. fore topsail done. and, I have switched rope lay direction. now it should be OK, except where the rope is mirrored to conserve memory...
 

hey Greg!
 
well, you're completely right about OCD! would you believe I haven't paid an ounce of attention about how the ropes are laid? so, naturally, now I'll have to devote an entire pass just to organizing them properly. and, also naturally, I'll credit you for contributing to my ever increasing hatred toward 3D ropes 🤣

hi all!
 
well, it's been a long time since I posted anything related to this beautiful ship. I am repeating myself now but I do hate digital ropes. finding motivation to continue with the sails was near impossible for me. but now... something clicked in my head, apparently. I don’t know if the sky’s gonna fall on our heads or what, but it seems I’ve managed to find some motivation to continue with the sails. main topsail done…
 
and I even feel like continuing, lol…
 

 

Thanks Mark. The work has been finished. I just need to sort out the easiest way to get the enormous data files to those wishing to purchase them.  It will include some kick-*** videos as well! The complete works should be available in January. In the meantime here are a couple of photos of the model on the open seas.
 

just as long as you don't do one of you with his wife while he's outside taking the photos - :-) pete
 
ps: I really can't tell that your render in the lounge isn't real world - amazing!

Hi Denis - mate this build log is a tour de force of your skill - If you are able to incorporate a part view as you mentioned' I think you are close to the Holy Grail especially if the part view could be dimensioned, but I suspect this may be a bridge to far.
 
Looking at your work I'm thinking that you seem to be getting the same satisfaction and knowledge of how these engineering marvels of their day worked as we get making sawdust without the tools, workshop and respirator plus two or three years of work plus the downtime for the ooops factor.
 
The only upside I can think of for us is the smell of the wood and being able to display the fruits of our labour when the power goes off :-)
 
Fabulous work its a privilege to be able to watch it grow. Cheers Pete 

These renders are superb - especially the last image with the pump crank handle bearing open - looking at the grain visible under the paint and the slight cast texture on the parts of the metal bearing where it hasn't been machined. Incredible detail beautiful work. Cheers Pete

Hi Greg - Like Wayne I would be very interested in knowing which program your very talented 3D computer modeler is using - Not so much for the rendering - but the program he is using to construct the model itself. The reason being that some programs such as Solidworks and other upper end programs automatically produce a cutting list or Bill of Materials which for myself and I'm sure most of the members would prove an invaluable tool to calculate their total timber order or group different parts of the same thickness lumber which they may have available while waiting for an order etc.
Programs like solidworks  and others can calculate any size stage giving the totals of the varying thicknesses which make up the total along with individual or total weights and costs for the various materials selected for the Build. I understand that a practiced user can lay out the individual parts into a sketch plan to minimise wastage similar to a cnc cutting program.
Cheers Pete

Hi Denis
Welcome to the forum, I'd like to tag along with your build if I may.  I've been dallying with Solidworks with the same thing in mind and your work looks fabulous to date - Could you let us know how long you have been using blender before taking up this challenge just to give me idea of what's ahead of me - Like MarkP if got some 2D CAD behind me but just starting in 3D. Looking forward to your further posts - Cheers Pete

Hi Ed - don't bash yourself up you're doing pretty well getting to where you are with things looking pretty shipshape. I think the  low number of completed models of the Norske on the www shows that a lot of guys have put it back into the cupboard and gone on with something simpler but you’re still in the game.
 
Perhaps I could offer a heads up on a couple of parts that tripped me up - right around where you are now?
 
At first glance part 47 (the lower stern gallery filler piece) appears to be flat if you just look at the sectioned sheer plan or at least it did to me, but in fact when looking from astern the gallery floors curve down from amidships to each outer corner which in turn sets the height of the gallery wings. I didn't notice first time round and had to strip it out and make another.
 
Suggest maybe you use the large Gallery board ? - part 52 - and pin that in place first by referencing the height above the upper deck on the sheer plan. Once you’ve got that in place the legs should then give you the level of the upper gallery deck to pin in place amidships having regard to the deck camber and then the sheer plan showing both the upper deck wings and lower gallery windows sloping down to the waist in line with the Wales.
 
Get the above sorted and you’re home and hosed. Enjoy the rest of your build.

Cheers Pete

That is a dream workshop Gianpiero. I love the way your bench power tools slide out for easy access. And you have your very own museum to boot! Speaking for everyone else here - we're jealous!

This instead is the front room where I stored all my lifelong models......
 

here is my workshop in its current state....!
 




 

Kevin, I'll accommodate you now!
here is my workshop that has just been refurbished:









 
 

I finished with this little decorations:





 

I finally finished the first set of sidewall decorations:
 





 

I continue with the decorations:

I’ve been looking for a solution to the Proxxon 3.2mm max shank size limitation for some time as there are very few standard profiles available in this size and I didn’t want to try and turn down shanks given the hardened metal alloys they are manufactured from.
 
I recently came across a replacement Spindle kit manufactured by a German Firm Usovo which will accept ER 11 collets – 1mm to 7mm - have purchased and installed the new Spindle and very happy so far.
 
The install is very straightforward but I had one gotcha involving the removal of the original Proxxon drive collar. The collar is retained by a 3mm Phillips Head which rounded first try and had to be drilled out.

This isn’t really a problem as the intention is for the original spindle to be discarded but I used an 2mm easy out to remove the remaining part of the screw after I removed the original spindle so as to retain it as a spare.

When fitting the new spindle, I used a new 3mm Hex socket head machine screw to replace the OEM Phillips Head - just a heads up as it isn’t part of the kit. The offending screw is shown in the instruction sheet photo step 5.

Photo 1 - Instruction sheet – see step 5 and 10 for a better view of the retaining screw and drive grommet.

Photo 2 - shows the original Proxxon Spindle, bearings and the Drive collar. I was pretty disappointed to note the pitting and rough machining of the original spindle in what is a new and not inexpensive machine, especially when compared with the kit spindle machining shown in photo 3. 

Photo 3 - Kit contents – note the lower ball race is already pressed in place on the new spindle. Also note the instructions don’t mention the obvious ie that the old bearings have to be removed.

Photo 4 - shows the Hex Head Machine screws used to retain the motor so why didn’t they use one for the drive collar retainer instead of a Phillips head??

Photo 5 – Comparison of Collet holders and old bits removed. The black plastic drive collar is shown but there is a more flexible grommet not shown which press fits over the top of the drive collar

Photo 6 - New spindle installed with collet holder and a 5mm collet. The first run was noticeably quieter with no discernible runout. Very happy so far.

Photo 7 – Range of ER 11 collets 1mm – 7mm. Bought these on line for just under $40 and despite the homey labels they were nicely machined and supplied in individual oil filled plastic bags. Comparison of the 3mm Proxxon to the 3mm ER11 collet.

When using the larger mill bits, one has to have regard to the limited torque available and take shallower cuts but to me this is a easy limitation to accept for the far greater Type and range of standard milling bits available to the ER11 collets than the 3.2mm Proxxon max.

The link to the spindle kit is https://www.usovo.de/en/c/cnc-technology/proxxon-mf70-accessories they were great to deal with and while not cheap at 99 euro for me it offered value for money. There are two versions available for mill serial numbers above or below serial 22852.
They also offer a beautiful planetary reduction gearbox for the earlier serials to give more torque for the larger mill bits – would love one for mine, a later serial, but not in the works at the moment unfortunately.

I have no financial nor any interest in the firm just posted as a heads up for many of us that have the machine. Hope this is of use to others. Cheers Pete.

Short Answer: I’m cheating!
 
Actually, I’m still refining the process.  There are 150+ to make. ID of each ring is 1/32”.  Here’s my process:
 
1.  Make a fixture consisting of a 1/32” diameter aluminum wire embedded in an aluminum block.  There is also a brass ground lug bolted to the block.
 
2.  Make loops of 30 gage tinned copper wire.  Diameter is unimportant.  Ends of wire are lightly twisted and soldered together.
 
3.  Place one end of the loop over the aluminum pin in the fixture.  Chuck the other end in an “eggbeater” type hand drill.  Turn the drill until the loop twists and forms an eye around the 1/32” dia Al pin.
 
4. Solder the twisted tail using my resistance soldering device.
 
5.  Remove from fixture and round up the eye with a tapered pin.
 
I have tried steps 1-4 with success.  In use, the rings will lay flat on the hatch board with the tail cemented into a hole in the board.
 
Roger