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PeteB

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    165
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About PeteB

  • Birthday 07/18/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Coast NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Flying GA aircraft and Gliders / Sailing and Old Ships
    Flight Simulation mainly Tube Liner Study Sims
    Models - Plastic Mainly Aircraft but a couple of S Boots in there
    A 90% Norske Loeve Originally Billings kit but a lot of scratch masts tops etc
    looking to build a POF next

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  1. Managed to buy a second hand Proxxon 230e from a modeller here in Au - so cancel my last - all good for now. Stay safe cheers Pete
  2. Hi Mike - Addendum to my previous comments plus Tamiya recovery: The Addendum: Just had to decant a can this morning to touch up some gravel rash on my wifes car bumper (use my airbrush for this) and this time tried out what I think you guys call a box cutter. Forget using side cutters - the box cutter with a new blade makes things soooo much easier. Use the point to create the initial escape hole as described and once the propellant has dispersed use it to cut an inch or so horizontally to form the spout and decant - makes it a very easy and clean 2 to 3 minute operation.
  3. Hi Mike I was a bit hesitant at first but after seeing it on youtube (where else!) gave it a go. Firstly don't shake the can and hold Vertical - I did it outside my garage as I wasn't sure what to expect and just used a small pair of wire snips and slowly nipped into the can near the top where it goes from vertical back towards the centre up to the nozzle - the metal is really very thin and it doesn't take much to breach it . You are well above the paint level and by slowly biting down until you hear the gas start hissing - then just leave it for about a minute or two till it stops.
  4. Just a quick one in regard to ready thinned paints. If you find you can only get a specific colour in a spray can you can decant it by carefully putting a small hole in the can to let the propellant out - its not as bad as it sounds takes 30 secs - then cut the top off with a pair of snips, its very thin, and pour into a screw lid glass jar. For best results let it sit overnight with the lid only sitting loose on top to let paint degass. If you're new to airbrushing this takes some of the guesswork out of thinning until you get some experience as Its then ready to use with no further thinning
  5. Thanks Jan - amazing resource you linked me to. Didn't spot anything at first glance but I'll go through the sheets individually tomorrow. Once again thanks for the info - stay safe - Cheers Pete
  6. Hi Tom - I use two both gravity feed - Iwata for fine and a no-name for area work - both in use for the last 15 years or so. I put Enamels and acrylics through them both on and off during a days spraying. As others before have mentioned get a compressor with a tank so the compressor is not running all the time. Another important point for any compressor is for it to have a water trap and drain. I found some of the cheaper models I tried before my current setup are quite noisy so depending on where you will be painting do a bit of research into the noise level. Be extrem
  7. Hi Guys I’ve made up my mind to finish off the old clunker at the request of my daughter. Apart from scraping the accumulated detritus of nearly 40 years off I will replace some more in scale blocks etc and re-rig with a varying selection of ropes from chuck to offset the kits two sizes. The head rails need replacing along with various other rails and bobs and bits which shouldn’t take too long as I’m keen to get on with the 42ft Armed Longboat using Gerard Delacroix monogram and plans now that I have rounded up some pear and boxwood. One issue with the Billings No
  8. Hi Guys are there any Aussie members with a Proxxon or Sherline/MicroMark or Taig Lathe that they aren’t using that much and would be prepared to sell. The $au exchange rate and zero freight service to Australia at the moment make a new purchase unviable. Drop me a PM if you have one please - Thanks for looking - Cheers Pete
  9. Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete
  10. Very nice clean build of an uncommon subject. Some nice diorama scenes and detailing in the winches/fittings and you have nailed the lighting - brightness level just right " in scale ?" Like the deck planking - what wood did you use ?? Cheers Pete
  11. love the coffee cup- nice detailing
  12. I learnt in school about a guy that used to spend a lot of his time working on ceilings - he did great work too. Called michelangelo or something like that... 🙂
  13. Hi Ed I want to say for me its been a "tour de force" of technique, master craftmanship and sharing that has kept me awed during your build - For me your build log is an unbelievable treasure trove of learning and I would like to thank you for the journey. Cheers Pete
  14. Hi Marsalv - All today I have had all sorts of high tech options from double ball races to modified live centers fitted with a mill bit flying around what grey matter is left - I should have known to first apply the old standby - KISS. - Thanks mate for putting me out of my misery - cheers Pete
  15. Hi Marsalv - Can't help but keep going back and admiring your work from start to date - just beautiful clean joinery especially the way you have cut the limbers - I was wondering if you could let us in on the secret ? It looks like some sort of collar around a mill bit which is guided by the batten and limits the depth ? I can't work out if its stationary or rotating with the mill bit - Could you enlighten me please. Cheers Pete
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