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About PeteB

  • Birthday 07/18/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Coast NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Flying GA aircraft and Gliders / Sailing and Old Ships
    Flight Simulation mainly Tube Liner Study Sims
    Models - Plastic Mainly Aircraft but a couple of S Boots in there
    A 90% Norske Loeve Originally Billings kit but a lot of scratch masts tops etc
    looking to build a POF next

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  1. Hi Ted - very nice build. A tip from my old photography days - to get rid of reflections when shooting through glass use a polarizing filter, they are fairly cheap and with a great camera like you have shouldn't even cost you one f stop. - I use one when photographing models in museums etc. Look forward to seeing your new build. Cheers Pete
  2. Absolute gem of a suggestion which I'm sure most if not all of the members would endorse - I guess it would all pivot on whether we have a brave soul with the time to moderate/maintain it - great idea. Cheers Pete
  3. Hi Marsalv - Just been catching up and was about to say that every time I look in the work keeps getting better and better but realized that isn't the case your work has been at this extraordinary level of precision right from the start. I don't often have cause to say this, but for me I genuinely find your build inspiring and/or aspiring (not sure of my english here) even though I have no illusions of being able to replicate the same result - thank you. One question if I may ? in your earlier post you show your plank caulking method - is it thin card stock you are using or are t
  4. Managed to buy a second hand Proxxon 230e from a modeller here in Au - so cancel my last - all good for now. Stay safe cheers Pete
  5. Hi Mike - Addendum to my previous comments plus Tamiya recovery: The Addendum: Just had to decant a can this morning to touch up some gravel rash on my wifes car bumper (use my airbrush for this) and this time tried out what I think you guys call a box cutter. Forget using side cutters - the box cutter with a new blade makes things soooo much easier. Use the point to create the initial escape hole as described and once the propellant has dispersed use it to cut an inch or so horizontally to form the spout and decant - makes it a very easy and clean 2 to 3 minute operation.
  6. Hi Mike I was a bit hesitant at first but after seeing it on youtube (where else!) gave it a go. Firstly don't shake the can and hold Vertical - I did it outside my garage as I wasn't sure what to expect and just used a small pair of wire snips and slowly nipped into the can near the top where it goes from vertical back towards the centre up to the nozzle - the metal is really very thin and it doesn't take much to breach it . You are well above the paint level and by slowly biting down until you hear the gas start hissing - then just leave it for about a minute or two till it stops.
  7. Just a quick one in regard to ready thinned paints. If you find you can only get a specific colour in a spray can you can decant it by carefully putting a small hole in the can to let the propellant out - its not as bad as it sounds takes 30 secs - then cut the top off with a pair of snips, its very thin, and pour into a screw lid glass jar. For best results let it sit overnight with the lid only sitting loose on top to let paint degass. If you're new to airbrushing this takes some of the guesswork out of thinning until you get some experience as Its then ready to use with no further thinning
  8. Thanks Jan - amazing resource you linked me to. Didn't spot anything at first glance but I'll go through the sheets individually tomorrow. Once again thanks for the info - stay safe - Cheers Pete
  9. Hi Tom - I use two both gravity feed - Iwata for fine and a no-name for area work - both in use for the last 15 years or so. I put Enamels and acrylics through them both on and off during a days spraying. As others before have mentioned get a compressor with a tank so the compressor is not running all the time. Another important point for any compressor is for it to have a water trap and drain. I found some of the cheaper models I tried before my current setup are quite noisy so depending on where you will be painting do a bit of research into the noise level. Be extrem
  10. Hi Guys I’ve made up my mind to finish off the old clunker at the request of my daughter. Apart from scraping the accumulated detritus of nearly 40 years off I will replace some more in scale blocks etc and re-rig with a varying selection of ropes from chuck to offset the kits two sizes. The head rails need replacing along with various other rails and bobs and bits which shouldn’t take too long as I’m keen to get on with the 42ft Armed Longboat using Gerard Delacroix monogram and plans now that I have rounded up some pear and boxwood. One issue with the Billings No
  11. Hi Guys are there any Aussie members with a Proxxon or Sherline/MicroMark or Taig Lathe that they aren’t using that much and would be prepared to sell. The $au exchange rate and zero freight service to Australia at the moment make a new purchase unviable. Drop me a PM if you have one please - Thanks for looking - Cheers Pete
  12. Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete
  13. Very nice clean build of an uncommon subject. Some nice diorama scenes and detailing in the winches/fittings and you have nailed the lighting - brightness level just right " in scale ?" Like the deck planking - what wood did you use ?? Cheers Pete
  14. love the coffee cup- nice detailing
  15. I learnt in school about a guy that used to spend a lot of his time working on ceilings - he did great work too. Called michelangelo or something like that... 🙂
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