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About PeteB

  • Birthday 07/18/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Coast NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Flying GA aircraft and Gliders / Sailing and Old Ships
    Flight Simulation mainly Tube Liner Study Sims
    Models - Plastic Mainly Aircraft but a couple of S Boots in there
    A 90% Norske Loeve Originally Billings kit but a lot of scratch masts tops etc
    looking to build a POF next

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  1. Hi Ted - very nice build. A tip from my old photography days - to get rid of reflections when shooting through glass use a polarizing filter, they are fairly cheap and with a great camera like you have shouldn't even cost you one f stop. - I use one when photographing models in museums etc. Look forward to seeing your new build. Cheers Pete
  2. Absolute gem of a suggestion which I'm sure most if not all of the members would endorse - I guess it would all pivot on whether we have a brave soul with the time to moderate/maintain it - great idea. Cheers Pete
  3. Hi Marsalv - Just been catching up and was about to say that every time I look in the work keeps getting better and better but realized that isn't the case your work has been at this extraordinary level of precision right from the start. I don't often have cause to say this, but for me I genuinely find your build inspiring and/or aspiring (not sure of my english here) even though I have no illusions of being able to replicate the same result - thank you. One question if I may ? in your earlier post you show your plank caulking method - is it thin card stock you are using or are they very thin hornbeam strips ? I'll keep you from your work no longer - Stay safe - Cheers Pete
  4. Managed to buy a second hand Proxxon 230e from a modeller here in Au - so cancel my last - all good for now. Stay safe cheers Pete
  5. Hi Mike - Addendum to my previous comments plus Tamiya recovery: The Addendum: Just had to decant a can this morning to touch up some gravel rash on my wifes car bumper (use my airbrush for this) and this time tried out what I think you guys call a box cutter. Forget using side cutters - the box cutter with a new blade makes things soooo much easier. Use the point to create the initial escape hole as described and once the propellant has dispersed use it to cut an inch or so horizontally to form the spout and decant - makes it a very easy and clean 2 to 3 minute operation. In regard to what you would get out of a Tamiya spray can I have attached a photo of the amount of paint I got out of the 400ml car touch up can. The jar is a medium jam jar about 21/4" Ø x 5" inches in the old money or about 55 x 125mm whichever you use. As you can see I got about 2 3/8" of paint so proportioning it to a 100ml Tamiya can you could expect a bit over 5/8ths to 3/4"in a similar sized jar which would be enough to keep you air-brushing to Xmas and beyond. Looking at the amount of paint in the jar it's easy to believe the claim that 75% of rattle can paint is wasted. An add on for me is that I don't have to thin this in any way as its just waiting to be poured into the airbrush cup and it doesn't seem to skin over at all in the jar at least not that I have observed months after decanting. Anyway mate have a go it won’t blow you and the house up and once you've done it no sweat next time. Cheers Pete
  6. Hi Mike I was a bit hesitant at first but after seeing it on youtube (where else!) gave it a go. Firstly don't shake the can and hold Vertical - I did it outside my garage as I wasn't sure what to expect and just used a small pair of wire snips and slowly nipped into the can near the top where it goes from vertical back towards the centre up to the nozzle - the metal is really very thin and it doesn't take much to breach it . You are well above the paint level and by slowly biting down until you hear the gas start hissing - then just leave it for about a minute or two till it stops. Then all I did then was enlarge the original hole and cut a horizontal line across the can for about 1.5 inches and then pull it out in the centre to form a spout and pour the paint along with the ball bearing into a glass jar with a metal lid no mess done and dusted. I'd seen the straw trick before but it was just too messy for me, this way no problem just take it easy making the first hole. Cheers Pete
  7. Just a quick one in regard to ready thinned paints. If you find you can only get a specific colour in a spray can you can decant it by carefully putting a small hole in the can to let the propellant out - its not as bad as it sounds takes 30 secs - then cut the top off with a pair of snips, its very thin, and pour into a screw lid glass jar. For best results let it sit overnight with the lid only sitting loose on top to let paint degass. If you're new to airbrushing this takes some of the guesswork out of thinning until you get some experience as Its then ready to use with no further thinning. Cheers
  8. Thanks Jan - amazing resource you linked me to. Didn't spot anything at first glance but I'll go through the sheets individually tomorrow. Once again thanks for the info - stay safe - Cheers Pete
  9. Hi Tom - I use two both gravity feed - Iwata for fine and a no-name for area work - both in use for the last 15 years or so. I put Enamels and acrylics through them both on and off during a days spraying. As others before have mentioned get a compressor with a tank so the compressor is not running all the time. Another important point for any compressor is for it to have a water trap and drain. I found some of the cheaper models I tried before my current setup are quite noisy so depending on where you will be painting do a bit of research into the noise level. Be extremely careful when handling the needle as this and the seat are essential ingredients along with the correct thinning to effective airbrushing. link to a very good short tute from a guy who knows how to airbrush which I found very useful - hope its helps you as well. Cheers Pete
  10. Hi Guys I’ve made up my mind to finish off the old clunker at the request of my daughter. Apart from scraping the accumulated detritus of nearly 40 years off I will replace some more in scale blocks etc and re-rig with a varying selection of ropes from chuck to offset the kits two sizes. The head rails need replacing along with various other rails and bobs and bits which shouldn’t take too long as I’m keen to get on with the 42ft Armed Longboat using Gerard Delacroix monogram and plans now that I have rounded up some pear and boxwood. One issue with the Billings Norske Love that has always seemed a bit odd to me is the height of the poop deck port and starboard rails which can be seen by the scale figure in the photos are just below knee height which I would have thought would almost guarantee a quick trip overboard on a dark night? The other item is that Billings either by design or omission don’t show any sort of fittings such as a coach house to get some light into the great room below nor any seating or flag lockers et al on what is a very large expanse of empty deck. I have trolled the net and logs here but there are remarkably few finished models for such a well know kit. All the ones I’ve found are the same apart from one with a gaff rig on the rear mast in place of the Billings Lateen rig, all show the same large expanse of bare deck. At this stage of the build I’m not trying for any historically accuracy but I would like to finish what appears to me to be a vacant lot looking for something to occupy it (realise its missing the knees and large flag staff). Has anyone got any thoughts on whether something should or might be expected to be there for a ship of this vintage and Navy? I assume Billings must have had access to some original plans and I wonder if anyone would any idea where to start looking or can tell me that this is likely the way she was constructed so I can stop wasting my time. Appreciate you looking and any advice you may have. Cheers Pete.
  11. Hi Guys are there any Aussie members with a Proxxon or Sherline/MicroMark or Taig Lathe that they aren’t using that much and would be prepared to sell. The $au exchange rate and zero freight service to Australia at the moment make a new purchase unviable. Drop me a PM if you have one please - Thanks for looking - Cheers Pete
  12. Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete
  13. Very nice clean build of an uncommon subject. Some nice diorama scenes and detailing in the winches/fittings and you have nailed the lighting - brightness level just right " in scale ?" Like the deck planking - what wood did you use ?? Cheers Pete
  14. love the coffee cup- nice detailing
  15. I learnt in school about a guy that used to spend a lot of his time working on ceilings - he did great work too. Called michelangelo or something like that... 🙂
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